Another door ajar thread

[JtuckerSvces]

So the light stays on the entire time in the gauge cluster, key or no key. I suspect the fuse block or gauge cluster, or even the body ECU relay letting power back up my ground, but down want to rule out the wiring, or back door ECU who knows, wtf, lol, I'm just guessing. the woman will be home soon and I'd like to check it out.

So far I know connector 1a has power because my sunroof still works. I also have all the door triggers unplugged to prevent unwanted grounding. My dome light is not wired up and wire end is protected.

I found this test I am prepping to perform once the vehicle is back here.

Well, before I messed with ECU's, Body or Back, I'd confirm three things.

At Back Door ECU, Terminal 7, Blue/White wire: Do you have ground with door open and no ground with door closed?

Do you have continuity from Back door ECU Terminal 18 Violet/White wire to Body ECU Terminal 7 Violet/white wire?

Do you have continuity from Door terminal 1 Light green/red of rear dome light to Terminal 12 Light green/red wire at Plug C27 on combination meter(speedo module). I'd actually check the light/green wire at Terminal 9 of plug IE2 in the left kick panel first, as that would be a lot easier than pulling combo meter. A fail from there forward to the combo meter is less likely.

Those three tests, added to what you have reported, pretty much rule out the wiring and leave you with two suspect ECU's.

I don't know, and have no way to find out, if violet/white wire signals with 12V+ or ground, but I assume it is one or the other. That's how you tell which ECU is at fault. So I'd open that plug at IE2 in the left kick panel and then see what happens on the violet/white wire from the rear at that point. SOMETHING should change as you open and close the hatch, or Back Door ECU is suspect. First test for 12V+ and then test for ground with hatch open and closed.

 

[TheDurk]

So the light stays on the entire time in the gauge cluster, key or no key. I suspect the fuse block or gauge cluster, or even the body ECU relay letting power back up my ground, but down want to rule out the wiring, or back door ECU who knows, wtf, lol, I'm just guessing. the woman will be home soon and I'd like to check it out.

So far I know connector 1a has power because my sunroof still works. I also have all the door triggers unplugged to prevent unwanted grounding. My dome light is not wired up and wire end is protected.

I found this test I am prepping to perform once the vehicle is back here.

I wrote that, and I am not sure it has anything to do with your problem. Plus, it was written against a specific year's circuitry and I don't know what year you have. Post a year and I'll try and give you something useful. How do you know it's not the liftgate sensor if your dome is disconnected? Did you disconnect that one?

 

[JtuckerSvces]

I wrote that, and I am not sure it has anything to do with your problem. Plus, it was written against a specific year's circuitry and I don't know what year you have. Post a year and I'll try and give you something useful. How do you know it's not the liftgate sensor if your dome is disconnected? Did you disconnect that one?

Haha yea, and I'm not sure if it's relevant to my issue or not, but being a non-electrician and also having a '99 Limited (new style MAF) I assumed it to be the same.

I don't any concrete answers, I'm just trying to make some sense of the hundreds of wires and accomplish progress on eliminating the electrical gremlins on this vehicle.

I did not disconnect the dome. The P.O. had a DVD player installed in place of the center dome, but had removed it leaving the center dome L-Y and LG-B wires exposed. I pulled the aftermarket wiring out and cleaned up where it spliced and continuity there is good. I have a dome from a '99 SR5. Does the door/off/on switch for the front dome go towards the driver or the passenger side? I just need to visit the hardware store for some dash and dome screws.

For safe measure I pulled the Dome 15a mini-spade under the hood.

I get off at 3:30 today. I'll be off the mountain and home by 5, and my woman is off so today, weather permitting, I can make some progress.

And thanks for your troubleshooting advice. I have already learned a little. Futhermore, thank you in advance for what may come in time.

 

[TheDurk]

Haha yea, and I'm not sure if it's relevant to my issue or not, but being a non-electrician and also having a '99 Limited (new style MAF) I assumed it to be the same.

I don't any concrete answers, I'm just trying to make some sense of the hundreds of wires and accomplish progress on eliminating the electrical gremlins on this vehicle.

I did not disconnect the dome. The P.O. had a DVD player installed in place of the center dome, but had removed it leaving the center dome L-Y and LG-B wires exposed. I pulled the aftermarket wiring out and cleaned up where it spliced and continuity there is good. I have a dome from a '99 SR5. Does the door/off/on switch for the front dome go towards the driver or the passenger side? I just need to visit the hardware store for some dash and dome screws.

For safe measure I pulled the Dome 15a mini-spade under the hood.

I get off at 3:30 today. I'll be off the mountain and home by 5, and my woman is off so today, weather permitting, I can make some progress.

And thanks for your troubleshooting advice. I have already learned a little. Futhermore, thank you in advance for what may come in time.

Uh, neither. it gets a 12V+ constant on from pin 3 of Plug 1A of the Body ECU (the L-Y wire) and a ground signal from the dash cluster at Pin 13 of Plug C27. All the door triggers also go to the Plug C27. That is, until your PO started messing with things. I can't do much over the internet with aftermarket mods unless I know exactly what was done.

You could try pulling that C27 plug (a white two-row plug with 11 pins in the bottom row) from the cluster. If the Door Ajar light stays on in the cluster, the cluster is at fault. If it goes out, then you would probe the pin for each trigger to see which has a ground. That's pins 9(LF-Black wire)),8(RF-Black/white)), and 7(both rears-black-red). If one of those wires shows ground, then you trace that to see why. With the latch on top, looking at Plug C27, Pin 7 is top right, Pin 8 is bottom left and Pin 9 just to the right of 8.

 

[JtuckerSvces]

I will keep you posted.

 

[JtuckerSvces]

Uh, neither. it gets a 12V+ constant on from pin 3 of Plug 1A of the Body ECU (the L-Y wire) and a ground signal from the dash cluster at Pin 13 of Plug C27. All the door triggers also go to the Plug C27. That is, until your PO started messing with things. I can't do much over the internet with aftermarket mods unless I know exactly what was done.

You could try pulling that C27 plug (a white two-row plug with 11 pins in the bottom row) from the cluster. If the Door Ajar light stays on in the cluster, the cluster is at fault. If it goes out, then you would probe the pin for each trigger to see which has a ground. That's pins 9(LF-Black wire)),8(RF-Black/white)), and 7(both rears-black-red). If one of those wires shows ground, then you trace that to see why. With the latch on top, looking at Plug C27, Pin 7 is top right, Pin 8 is bottom left and Pin 9 just to the right of 8.

OK so I'm fooling with this gremlin today. Looking for the C27 plug on this site so I know whatsup, but not found my answer yet. I know what it looks like according to FSM but it's on;y my assumption its in the back of the gauge cluster. If I am grounding out on a trigger, is this ( http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96...pdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/systemci/023il.pdf ) the schematic I should work from?

This issue is due assault and will be neutralized.

 

[JtuckerSvces]

Uh, neither. it gets a 12V+ constant on from pin 3 of Plug 1A of the Body ECU (the L-Y wire) and a ground signal from the dash cluster at Pin 13 of Plug C27. All the door triggers also go to the Plug C27. That is, until your PO started messing with things. I can't do much over the internet with aftermarket mods unless I know exactly what was done.

You could try pulling that C27 plug (a white two-row plug with 11 pins in the bottom row) from the cluster. If the Door Ajar light stays on in the cluster, the cluster is at fault. If it goes out, then you would probe the pin for each trigger to see which has a ground. That's pins 9(LF-Black wire)),8(RF-Black/white)), and 7(both rears-black-red). If one of those wires shows ground, then you trace that to see why. With the latch on top, looking at Plug C27, Pin 7 is top right, Pin 8 is bottom left and Pin 9 just to the right of 8.

Alright hoss here is what I have found on the 4runner.

by the 4wd ECU in all the wiring I found some melted wire insulator. It was blue. So I got to looking and all up and down I found a L-W wire that has gotten hot.

I can't find on the web what this wire does, but I'm sure it's not helping anything and is in fact an electrical hazard. I tend to believe it's related to the door ajar because now my door ajar light is off unless my key is in the ignition and now my rear dome light works as when the hatch is open and goes off when it is closed.

The front dome light is in now but it only works in "on" position, but not in "door" position.

Eliminating one part at a time.

 

[JtuckerSvces]

Alright hoss here is what I have found on the 4runner.

by the 4wd ECU in all the wiring I found some melted wire insulator. It was blue. So I got to looking and all up and down I found a L-W wire that has gotten hot.

I can't find on the web what this wire does, but I'm sure it's not helping anything and is in fact an electrical hazard. I tend to believe it's related to the door ajar because now my door ajar light is off unless my key is in the ignition and now my rear dome light works as when the hatch is open and goes off when it is closed.

The front dome light is in now but it only works in "on" position, but not in "door" position.

Eliminating one part at a time.

Blue white wire traced to front seat. :tea:

I see SR5 front seat brackets in my near future.

Still chasing door ajar. I have it down to combination meter , wiring or body ECU being suspect.

Any idea on a test i can to to get my conclusion down I have continuity in violet/white.

 

[JtuckerSvces]

Uh, neither. it gets a 12V+ constant on from pin 3 of Plug 1A of the Body ECU (the L-Y wire) and a ground signal from the dash cluster at Pin 13 of Plug C27. All the door triggers also go to the Plug C27. That is, until your PO started messing with things. I can't do much over the internet with aftermarket mods unless I know exactly what was done.

You could try pulling that C27 plug (a white two-row plug with 11 pins in the bottom row) from the cluster. If the Door Ajar light stays on in the cluster, the cluster is at fault. If it goes out, then you would probe the pin for each trigger to see which has a ground. That's pins 9(LF-Black wire)),8(RF-Black/white)), and 7(both rears-black-red). If one of those wires shows ground, then you trace that to see why. With the latch on top, looking at Plug C27, Pin 7 is top right, Pin 8 is bottom left and Pin 9 just to the right of 8.

So to be sure I understand you correctly... If at any point the C27 plug is unplugged and the ajar light comes on then it is and can only be the gauge cluster? I want to be sure I understand this correctly.

When I plug c27 into the cluster the light goes off. I unplug it the light stays off. I put the key in and turn on without c27 plugged in and light comes on and stays on. So the plug is out and the light is on without a key in the ignition switch now. Then I plug c27 back up without key and the light goes off.

So correct me and my limited electrical knowledge if I am wrong but the cluster is grounding itself. Right? Grrrrr. :fencing:

 

[JtuckerSvces]

Ok so with the gauge cluster remove the door locks work perfectly fine; here is what I have discovered.

 

[TheDurk]

Yup, that can't be good. Certainly looks like something is shorting to ground. You can try delicate surgery with an Exacto knife to get the carbon off, without damaging the copper traces and achieving electrical separation between them. Odds of success are about 50/50. Problem is the cause of all this might be external to the CM, so any other issues in the circuit outside the CM need to be resolved.

 

[JtuckerSvces]

Yup, that can't be good. Certainly looks like something is shorting to ground. You can try delicate surgery with an Exacto knife to get the carbon off, without damaging the copper traces and achieving electrical separation between them. Odds of success are about 50/50. Problem is the cause of all this might be external to the CM, so any other issues in the circuit outside the CM need to be resolved.

Sounds fun, I like cheap/free fixes. Do I scrape the copper trace, or the green clean to soot, or both??

I don't have circuit boards on my YJ; this toyota my girl likes so much is way more complicated.

 

[TheDurk]

Sounds fun, I like cheap/free fixes. Do I scrape the copper trace, or the green clean to soot, or both??

I don't have circuit boards on my YJ; this toyota my girl likes so much is way more complicated.

More important is the green. If the carbon comes off the trace, all the better, but leaving it is preferable to damaging the trace. Then you are SOL.

 

[JtuckerSvces]

More important is the green. If the carbon comes off the trace, all the better, but leaving it is preferable to damaging the trace. Then you are SOL.

LOL! Could a steady hand and solider repair a trace?,

Looks like I may be getting the rebuilt and maybe a body ECU and call it done with SR5 seat tracks up front and fix the clock. Sell the good Limited seat parts on Ebay. Piece of cake.

BTW, I changed bulbs with the "D" indicator and the door ajar and nothing changed when I plugged the cluster back in, haha.

Checked around and got this email:

SouthernElectronics.com Repair Quote 05/22/2016 We Fix It Right Or It's Free!™
Ashleigh ,

We will repair: 1999 Toyota 4Runner Cluster for $275 .

This quote includes:

FREE NATIONWIDE SHIPPING* BOTH ways
ALL LABOR for a complete overhaul (not just your problem) including updates.
ALL PARTS
ONE YEAR WARRANTY on your entire cluster or module repair
LENS POLISHING
FOLLOW THESE EASY STEPS:

1) When sending us your repair, please complete this easy to use electronic form with your repair to confirm your price.

Or use this paper form and a copy of this email to confirm your price.

2) If you use the paper form you may use this UPS prepaid shipping label or use yours to the address below.

3) Either way, print the form and include with your repair and ship it to us from any UPS drop off location, including Staples stores.

How to remove? See these removal videos, its pretty easy.

Undecided about repair vs. replacement? Here is a 1 minute video about the pros and cons of repair alternatives.

For the best way to pack your cluster we have this 3 minute video.

1yr warranty looks good. if its another problem and it burns again they say I'm covered.

Any other leads on rebuilt or new?

 

[JtuckerSvces]

Got the junkyard one for $100. Everything works like a charm.... The 4runner just went from 226k miles to 177k miles. :rofl:

The door locks now work, door ajar light is off, but I guess my CEL had broke itself because it's back on. :mad2:

 

[jaaa]

1998 4runner door ajar problem

My daughter's 4 runner has had a flickering door ajar light on for awhile. She could tell it was the driver's door by the alarm system she has. Meanwhile, she had an alternator go bad which I just replaced for her. After I installed the alternator, she claims the alarm on the car goes on randomly. Could the alternator install have caused the alarm problem? It reads a good 14.45 volts while running. I have since pulled the door ajar light in the cluster just so it doesn't annoy them. Is there a common failure point inside the door that causes this? In addition, if the car is locked manually the alarm doesn't go off.

 

[allyall]

Ajar light

I had a similar problem and just got the fix. My door ajar light would come on randomly while truck was parked, setting off the alarm. I haven't been able to lock it for over two years. It also flickered while driving. My issue turned out to be the wire to the rear hatch. I took apart and cleaned all four door jamb switches with a screwdriver and electrical contact cleaner. Light still flickered. Then I took the rear hatch latch off (three bolts). I cut the wire cover length wise, then clipped the red wire. Bingo. door ajar light has not come on since. (granted, this is a permanent fix and won't be "warned" if rear hatch isn't shut completely, but at least I can lock my truck again).

 

[doogie50]

Door ajar & tranny

My door ajar light stays on all the time, key in or out. When i put in reverse the light goes off... 97 4runner 3.4... Any suggestions?