Another Full-Length Roof Rack Option -PrinSu

I installed mine today, the last bar wouldn't fit due to the fin. I just used one screw in the very back hole and left it like that for the time being. Instead of the 2" portion being horizontal it is currently vertical. I may go ahead and order the 1x1 bar above for this location. It's a 2016.

Another issue I encountered was the front feet were touching my roof and would have dented it if fully tightened down. I just slipped a couple washers on top of the spacers and everything seemed to sung up correctly then. Has anybody else had this problem?

Thanks,
Nate
 
I installed mine today, the last bar wouldn't fit due to the fin. I just used one screw in the very back hole and left it like that for the time being. Instead of the 2" portion being horizontal it is currently vertical. I may go ahead and order the 1x1 bar above for this location. It's a 2016.

Another issue I encountered was the front feet were touching my roof and would have dented it if fully tightened down. I just slipped a couple washers on top of the spacers and everything seemed to sung up correctly then. Has anybody else had this problem?

Thanks,
Nate
Yeah, I had identical problems on my 2016 TRD Pro. Already ordered the 1"x1" from Zach. Not sure if it was because of UPS tweaking my side plates, but I ended up grabbing about 18 washers from Home Depot, and spreading them around the rack. Could have used several more of the taller spacers.

Typed like a child on my Nexus 6P
 
I had the same issues with my front feet. I just shoved more washer under it. Also, I have the 1x1 on the rear and it cleans it all up nicely.
 
Concerning Awning Brackets:

I have modified my Prinsu awning brackets to be much lower profile for install. I cut about 1.5" off of the very top of both brackets as it was protruding above my ARB2000 awning and was reducing clearance and was an eyesore. The ARB2000 can mount perfectly in the lower longer oval slot on the Prinsu brackets and clear the doors just fine and maintain a very low profile. I used a hacksaw and a angle block to cut straight, and some beer to lubricate my joints. I painted the aluminum cuts with semi-gloss krylon after taping off the outter side to protect the nice PC finish.

Came out much better, the protruding brackets really bothered me and mounting higher was a no-go for me as well. Hope this helps. I hope to be starting on my Hi-Lift bracket solution tonight. Stay tuned!



You can kind of see the "before" issue here:

 
Last edited:
Hi-Lift + Prinsu

I beta tested this today. I used ARB's awning brackets upside down and bent up slightly to make this work. Tomorrow I will cut the brackets down and give em a coat of paint. I got up to 80mph on the freeway and didn't notice it was there.




 
Rest of the parts came for my RAM GoPro mount.

075417c4676301ca35f23e96df9b9576.jpg
2e2dea55c8a7018091534053066ceb15.jpg


Typed like a child on my Nexus 6P
 
Hi-Lift + Prinsu

I beta tested this today. I used ARB's awning brackets upside down and bent up slightly to make this work. Tomorrow I will cut the brackets down and give em a coat of paint. I got up to 80mph on the freeway and didn't notice it was there.






Can you post some closeup / detailed pictures of what you did for the Jack mount?
 
Last edited:
[MENTION=146057]Dorobuta[/MENTION]

Yes, thanks for the reminder. Been busy getting ready for the Lonestar Jamboree coming up!

Ok so here is how I did it.

First, I started with 2 ARB touring awning brackets.

ARB AWNING BRACKET UNIVERSAL (813402)



I mounted them upside down on the crossbars by drilling 4 holes 1" apart and centered on the bar. ARB has holes in the bracket already but we wont use them. The Prinsu uses 1/4' carriage bolts. I got washers, lock washers and locking nuts to make sure they are secure. Caution: these carriage bolts can overtorque and snap easily, don't go crazy tightening them down.

Once I had It secure I was able to stand on my sliders and pull the brackets up putting the bend you see in them. This bend is needed to make sure the jack clears the body. It also helps when mounting. You could also do this bend in a vice.







After I had both brackets up and bent up. I took the jack and held it up to decide which holes in the jack I would use secure it, this step is a good workout. I was able to do all of this solo. A buddy would have helped with some of this quite a bit, especially the next part.

Now its time to measure your fastening bolt holes. I took 2 very hefty zipties and ran one through the top hole on each ARB awning bracket and routed it out the hole on the vertical plain of the bracket, allowing me to zip tie the jack to my brackets. All the weight is on the rear of this jack so I clicked the front ziptie into a loop and threaded the front of the jack through, then held the back part of the jack up and one handedly fastened that zip tie. If you have a buddy that can help, get him to do this part with you.

Once its ziptied to the brackets, tighten up the zip ties so the jack sits where you want it to. Mine lined up perfectly with the top of the bracket. Once its positioned where you want it, take a drill and a small drill bit and mark where your holes need to be. I lined mine up where the rear mount bolt hole was dead center on the bracket and the front bracket was a bit right of center. I marked a second hole on my front bracket for a lock hole as well.



Take all the brackets down and drill out your bolt holes. I forget exactly which size bolts I used but the are just the right size to hold the jack, this means your holes need to be pretty precise. I used a step bit to get them a bit larger than I needed for adjustment.

In the pic the one on the right is my rear mount, the one on the left in the pic is the front mount with my lock hole drilled out. At this point I also cut off the excess steel that hung down on these brackets for a nice clean look.



Once you are done, bolt it up, make adjustments to where your bolts need to go and make sure they are at a good angle for your truck. You do not want the jack to contact anything on the vehicle!



Make sure everything is just how you want it. Then take it all down, clean up, prime and paint your new Hi-Lift jack brackets. Reattach it all and you are finished.



I did add a quickfist to to top of each one but haven't found the right accessory for it, ARB has a hole right there that is perfect for this.



:rockon:
 
Last edited:
That's cool. Just make sure you pack a deep socket or wrench that large with you so you can unbolt it when you need it.

or better yet find a set of these in your thread size.
00m5010s4.jpg
 
Last edited:
Still have my full length sitting in the garage waiting for me to install - weather and work has not cooperated so far this year!

I am planning on non-drilling and using 3M VHB 4950 tape on the front feet - similar idea to the other full length racks. If the tape fails (from some reading I highly doubt it) then I will bust out the drill...

pjo

Did you do the tape and has it failed or OK?
 
Is anyone using the awning mounts sold by prinsu? If so, how are they working out for you?
[MENTION=148265]Scharfschütze[/MENTION] , do you have any pics of it installed before you modified them?
 
Last edited:
Is anyone using the awning mounts sold by prinsu? If so, how are they working out for you?
[MENTION=148265]Scharfschütze[/MENTION] , do you have any pics of it installed before you modified them?

Pics of what? The awning brackets?

I just cut the top off so I cound run the awning in the lowest position. Totally personal preference.


Link from Prinsu' site
e5eb7b_da29fb8c4eba4a73b79d0dcf97b036a9~mv2_d_2592_1728_s_2.jpg
 
Last edited:
That's cool. Just make sure you pack a deep socket or wrench that large with you so you can unbolt it when you need it.

or better yet find a set of these in your thread size.
00m5010s4.jpg

Pretty sweet but I like the idea of making a would-be theif have to work and think about how to get it. Its 22mm to get it off and you pretty much need 2 wrenches or a wrench and a socket to get it off. I carry both at all times so that works fine for me.
 
Bumping this thread with my latest rack mod.

Rigid SR-Q installed on the back of the rack, underneath the last bar. They fit perfectly with the gobi ladder and door. I tried to use carriage bolts to mount them but eventually just drilled straight through the bar and ran a bolt through.

Also shown is my plano 54" dual gun field locker box. This box is super heavy duty, wider and deeper than the standard gun boxes from Plano. It fees as beefy as a pelican, but about $125 cheaper than the nearest pelican size. I am going to permaninantly affix it this week and plan to stuff it with recovery gear for offroad trips.

 
Bumping this thread with my latest rack mod.

Rigid SR-Q installed on the back of the rack, underneath the last bar. They fit perfectly with the gobi ladder and door. I tried to use carriage bolts to mount them but eventually just drilled straight through the bar and ran a bolt through.

Also shown is my plano 54" dual gun field locker box. This box is super heavy duty, wider and deeper than the standard gun boxes from Plano. It fees as beefy as a pelican, but about $125 cheaper than the nearest pelican size. I am going to permaninantly affix it this week and plan to stuff it with recovery gear for offroad trips.

Looks good! how much does the rear spoiler interfere with the beam pattern on your SR-Qs? I've thought about mounting lights there but feel that the spoiler would cut off most of the light unless you mounted them higher.
 
Looks good! how much does the rear spoiler interfere with the beam pattern on your SR-Qs? I've thought about mounting lights there but feel that the spoiler would cut off most of the light unless you mounted them higher.

Honestly, they are just mounted for now. Wiring will come very soon.

Unfortunately these are spot pots, not floods (I am looking to trade for floods if anyone has some). The spot should be OK over the spoiler, i expect the flood may interfere. IF that is an issue, i have the option to just flip them to the top of the bar and it should fix the issue.
 
Great minds think alike. I just installed lights in the same place and it cuts off way more than you would want. I mainly installed them for wig wags though so I can be seen from behind on some of the dusty desert runs we go on. They are not wire up yet either. Just to the D pillar. I have them running off a 12V cordless tool battery.

4runner_rear_lights.jpg
 
Great minds think alike. I just installed lights in the same place and it cuts off way more than you would want. I mainly installed them for wig wags though so I can be seen from behind on some of the dusty desert runs we go on. They are not wire up yet either. Just to the D pillar. I have them running off a 12V cordless tool battery.

4runner_rear_lights.jpg~original

Well darn, thanks for the update. You planning to move them above the bar now? I think I will. They are so low profile it should be fine.

In other news: I got my Plano Field Locker dual gun box on.



 
Last edited:
Would you guys happen to know the height from the bottom of the roof to it's highest point? I'm trying to figure out if it would all fit in my garage. I can't even enter with my Thule Paddle Board mount on top of the factory cross bars. :(

Interested in this info as well. I have tried searching... Does anyone know how much taller the the Prinsu rack is over the factory rails? I only have about 1.75" of clearance to get into my garage. Parking in my garage and parking decks around town is must. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
 
Last edited:

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,121
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top