ANTMAN'S Thread
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Antman
Elite Member
Answers...
1. After our camping trip (also know as the Great Flatulence War of 2013) [MENTION=47340]Titanpat57[/MENTION] and I decided to join forces and tie the knot. We have never been happier. The house smells great...:toilet:
2. [MENTION=72821]Kinnick[/MENTION] - YOU, my friend need glasses.
Just to set you straight, here are some awesome photo's [MENTION=93894]J-BlickPhoto[/MENTION] :http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/158462-j-blickphoto-thread.html
Last edited:
DannyLlama
Elite Member
Trail Edition Skid Plate Swap
Today I added yet another TE piece to my SR5. [MENTION=49537]4ShoreRunner[/MENTION] gave me his old gas tank skid plate when he came to the Antman Garage last weekend for a fire-safety lesson...:boom: Thanks man!
Anyway- this skid is pretty much famous because it has seen lots of use- from Ouray to The Cove. I think it held up reasonably well for the trail duty it's seen. Lots of character! Overall, it's in good enough shape for me to make use of it with a little work.
I know, I know- I don't really offroad (maybe a little), but eventually I guarantee I will be scratching and denting this thing up (again!).
Here she is...
Yo Mr. Antman
I can't get the rust out of those hairline scratches for the life of me... What did you do / what do you recommend? Or did you not go after the hairline scratches ?G8RB8_12SR5
New member
Yo Mr. Antman
Might be worth your while to try OSPHO, it's a rust converter we use on ships all the time. You lay it on and it chemically alters the rust then you can paint over it. Generally can pick it up at places like west marine.
Antman
Elite Member
Yo Mr. Antman
I used some really coarse sandpaper- I think 80 grit. You can fold the sheet in half to get into those cracks.
eddiebx
New member
Yo Mr. Antman
Danny, SKID plates, not decorative plates. Just spray some black rustoleum paint over it and install it already, lol.
If you really want to get the rust out of the fine hairline scratches I'd trying a wire brush, maybe even a drill mounted one if you have access to it
cbielat
Senior Member
Danny, SKID plates, not decorative plates. Just spray some black rustoleum paint over it and install it already, lol.
If you really want to get the rust out of the fine hairline scratches I'd trying a wire brush, maybe even a drill mounted one if you have access to it
I agree. I just used the Rustoleum truck bed spray on my skids and sliders. They're going to get beat underneath, and you never see them anyway.
Antman
Elite Member
Dual Battery Setup
I've been planning this for several months now- getting parts together and doing research. Nothing new here really, but I had a few goals in mind with this setup.
1- I wanted an extremely "clean" installation. No wires running everywhere- pretty much stock in appearance.
2- Keep the cost down and use the original/stock battery as the aux. The relay was the most expensive part at $70- but I think I have less that $150 in the entire thing.
3- Super reliable and simple.
4- Ability to automatically charge both batteries when the truck is running, separate the batteries manually, and self jump start all from one switch.
5- This setup is a little different than most. My "Main" battery is a deep cycle/starting battery, so it won't suffer any damage if it's drained completely. With 160 minutes reserve capacity, this battery will power my accessories a long time before it's depleted. The Aux battery is to be used solely as a starting battery if the Main battery is dead.
PARTS LIST
*1 PAC 500 relay
*2 ANL Fuse Holders
*2 200A ANL Fuses
*Approx 12 feet of 2ga copper wire ( http://www.harborfreight.com/300amp-6ft-inverter-cable-set-69537.html )
*10 2ga Ring Terminals
*1/2" Split Loom (Approx)10 feet
*Battery Hold Down/tray
*2 Battery Terminal Clamps
*Battery Terminal Covers
*Custom bracket for P/S pump res.
*ON/OFF/ON switch- or OTRATTW V-Series Contura Switch # VJD2UHTB : DPDT ON/OFF/ON, GREEN/DAYLIGHT BRIGHT RED BOTH INDEPENDENT LED'S.
*12V Indicator LED
*2 Gammatronix LED's (optional) http://www.ebay.com/itm/6v-12v-24v-...307?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c752a2133
****This is the basic underhood wiring string.
Main Battery positive terminal / 200a ANL fuse / PAC Relay / 200a ANL Fuse / Aux Battery positive terminal. Aux Battery Negative to ground. The PAC relay also needs a ground and a power source to connect .
**Here's a wiring diagram using a simple SPDT switch along with an LED to indicate when the batteries are connected.
The diagram below incorporates the optional custom switch I used, a DPDT from OTRATTW.
By far, the hardest part of this was relocating the A/C lines and the power steering reservoir so they were out of the way and safe from rubbing with the battery in there. I had to make 2 custom brackets to accomplish this. Honestly, buy the ABR battery tray and be done with it. I spent 2 days fabbing and re-fabbing brackets until I was happy. It worked out well, but gees, what a pain!
Here are some pics-
**This is the PAC 500 relay- the key to the system. This will allow the batteries to be connected or separated. The 500A rating allows it to be robust enough to handle self-jump starting.
**I wanted to use the factory threaded holes on the fender wall, but the relay was too close to the hood strut. I had to modify it a little bit, imagine that. Basically I just took the bracket off and drilled another hole so it could slide down in the mount further. This picture shows the clearance with the hood almost closed. There is plenty of room now.
**Two fuses are required. These are 200A ANL fuses. 1 for each battery- between the positive terminal and the relay.
**Cable routing to the second battery.
**The negative cable routes to the frame and connects under an existing bolt that holds an A/C line bracket.
**This shows just how close the P/S bracket is to the battery. I have an aluminum sheet there to protect from rubbing- but it has a small gap there (though it doesn't look like it in the picture).
**The A/C line and the P/S lines can't touch or they will eventually rub through. The hose with the two blue lines (A/C) is about 1/2" away from the P/S line.
Overall I'm very happy with the result! All the 2 ga wiring is split loomed and has marine heat shrink applied. I spent A LOT of time planning this project!
I tested out a self jump-start and it works flawlessly.
Happy Modding!
I've been planning this for several months now- getting parts together and doing research. Nothing new here really, but I had a few goals in mind with this setup.
1- I wanted an extremely "clean" installation. No wires running everywhere- pretty much stock in appearance.
2- Keep the cost down and use the original/stock battery as the aux. The relay was the most expensive part at $70- but I think I have less that $150 in the entire thing.
3- Super reliable and simple.
4- Ability to automatically charge both batteries when the truck is running, separate the batteries manually, and self jump start all from one switch.
5- This setup is a little different than most. My "Main" battery is a deep cycle/starting battery, so it won't suffer any damage if it's drained completely. With 160 minutes reserve capacity, this battery will power my accessories a long time before it's depleted. The Aux battery is to be used solely as a starting battery if the Main battery is dead.
PARTS LIST
*1 PAC 500 relay
*2 ANL Fuse Holders
*2 200A ANL Fuses
*Approx 12 feet of 2ga copper wire ( http://www.harborfreight.com/300amp-6ft-inverter-cable-set-69537.html )
*10 2ga Ring Terminals
*1/2" Split Loom (Approx)10 feet
*Battery Hold Down/tray
*2 Battery Terminal Clamps
*Battery Terminal Covers
*Custom bracket for P/S pump res.
*ON/OFF/ON switch- or OTRATTW V-Series Contura Switch # VJD2UHTB : DPDT ON/OFF/ON, GREEN/DAYLIGHT BRIGHT RED BOTH INDEPENDENT LED'S.
*12V Indicator LED
*2 Gammatronix LED's (optional) http://www.ebay.com/itm/6v-12v-24v-...307?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c752a2133
****This is the basic underhood wiring string.
Main Battery positive terminal / 200a ANL fuse / PAC Relay / 200a ANL Fuse / Aux Battery positive terminal. Aux Battery Negative to ground. The PAC relay also needs a ground and a power source to connect .
**Here's a wiring diagram using a simple SPDT switch along with an LED to indicate when the batteries are connected.
The diagram below incorporates the optional custom switch I used, a DPDT from OTRATTW.
By far, the hardest part of this was relocating the A/C lines and the power steering reservoir so they were out of the way and safe from rubbing with the battery in there. I had to make 2 custom brackets to accomplish this. Honestly, buy the ABR battery tray and be done with it. I spent 2 days fabbing and re-fabbing brackets until I was happy. It worked out well, but gees, what a pain!
Here are some pics-
**This is the PAC 500 relay- the key to the system. This will allow the batteries to be connected or separated. The 500A rating allows it to be robust enough to handle self-jump starting.
**I wanted to use the factory threaded holes on the fender wall, but the relay was too close to the hood strut. I had to modify it a little bit, imagine that. Basically I just took the bracket off and drilled another hole so it could slide down in the mount further. This picture shows the clearance with the hood almost closed. There is plenty of room now.
**Two fuses are required. These are 200A ANL fuses. 1 for each battery- between the positive terminal and the relay.
**Cable routing to the second battery.
**The negative cable routes to the frame and connects under an existing bolt that holds an A/C line bracket.
**This shows just how close the P/S bracket is to the battery. I have an aluminum sheet there to protect from rubbing- but it has a small gap there (though it doesn't look like it in the picture).
**The A/C line and the P/S lines can't touch or they will eventually rub through. The hose with the two blue lines (A/C) is about 1/2" away from the P/S line.
Overall I'm very happy with the result! All the 2 ga wiring is split loomed and has marine heat shrink applied. I spent A LOT of time planning this project!
I tested out a self jump-start and it works flawlessly.
Happy Modding!
Attachments
Last edited:
Antman
Elite Member
Not yet. I forgot to snap pics before I bolted the battery in. I'll get some later. Nothing special though- both are aluminum- nothing welded! The A/C bracket has a rubber isolator just like the factory bracket- but not as fancy...
DannyLlama
Elite Member
That's just beautiful ... I'm so jealous of your talents.... Looks OEM :bravo:
philsey
New member
![tencom_fire[1].jpg](https://www.toyota-4runner.org/data/attachments/80/80708-3ec0539b44b6ff8595702221461f9749.jpg?hash=4LA4mPgpuA "tencom_fire[1].jpg")
Attachments
![tencom_fire[1].jpg](/data/attachments/80/80708-3ec0539b44b6ff8595702221461f9749.jpg?hash=4LA4mPgpuA)
Antman
Elite Member
That's what happens when you put HID bulbs in standard reflectors in [MENTION=51186]philsey[/MENTION] 's world...
jrandom
New member
Great write up, thanks! This is literally top of my todo list.
I wanted to ask, you recommend the ABR battery tray, it looks to deal with the relocation no problem, but does this fit a 31 battery? I found the site (Battery Trays & Clamps) but not sure which tray it is. Is it the FJ or the Prada or are they both the same? I live in the rust belt, do you know if this is just bare steel or stainless, by any chance?
Antman
Elite Member
Thanks!
I have no idea about that battery tray other than I know many on here have it and it works well. Maybe [MENTION=6163]phillyd2[/MENTION] , or [MENTION=47340]Titanpat57[/MENTION] can answer your questions?
jangoforhire
New member
I'll jump in. Here's some pictures from when I did my install. It can fit a full size battery, but it's a tight fit. Also I'm not sure about steel vs aluminum...I can't remember what it was when I had it. It's been a while.
Here's the link: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/116234-jangoforhires-build-pictures.html#post1077907
jrandom
New member
Thanks Antman for the pings
Perfect, thanks I found ABR's stuff on ebay, his descriptions are much better there. If it is the same one you have its nickle plated steel, so all good on corrosion resistance. Nice top shot looks cool with two optima batteries
Perfect, thanks
I found ABR's stuff on ebay, his descriptions are much better there. If it is the same one you have its nickle plated steel, so all good on corrosion resistance. Nice top shot looks cool with two optima batteries
eddiebx
New member
Pretty sure the 31 is going to be waaaaay to wide, lol. Check out this thread, seems like 34 is the about the max you can wedge in there: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...r-dual-batt-tray-group-buy-8.html#post1346691
jrandom
New member
You are probably right! LOL my biggest concern was actually the height, the optima yellow top 31 is quite a bit taller. Checked the spec and yep the thing is over a foot wide! Last time I did a setup like this I had a tiny 22RE in the engine compartment I could have slept in there. Thanks
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