RDOOGZ89
New member
Oh man, I would be on the phone busting the sellers balls. Not even to return them and get a new set, but for a discount on my next order haha.
Any reviews of the new Bilstein 6112's?
- Thread starter flyfisher4822
- Start date
Oh man, I would be on the phone busting the sellers balls. Not even to return them and get a new set, but for a discount on my next order haha.
4Rnr4Evr
New member
OK I carefully looked all over both coils and amazingly both have nicks at almost the exact same spot. My manufacturing experience tells me this got something to do with a careless worker at Bilstein rather than the reseller.
The nicks are tiny so I'll just dab them with something to cover the metal but it's still annoying.
The nicks are tiny so I'll just dab them with something to cover the metal but it's still annoying.
Attachments
hey , are you sure those are nicks, but rather center markers to where you should align them at? Its quite strange both are at the same areas to be considered a careless worker mishap if it looks intentional.
4Rnr4Evr
New member
LOL that would be the equivalent of somebody leaving a note on your car by scratching it with a key on the paint. But in any case the coils have no alignment.
I've seen this before, I work in manufacturing. The same parts are manufactured using the same procedures and machinery so if at some point during the process a worker needs to be careful to avoid damaging the part and they are not, the damage would be similar across the same batch of parts.
Now that I think about it I've mostly had this problem with Chinese suppliers... they still have issues understanding quality control...
I've seen this before, I work in manufacturing. The same parts are manufactured using the same procedures and machinery so if at some point during the process a worker needs to be careful to avoid damaging the part and they are not, the damage would be similar across the same batch of parts.
Now that I think about it I've mostly had this problem with Chinese suppliers... they still have issues understanding quality control...
Last edited:
RDOOGZ89
New member
Obviously it is pissing you off.... As it would for me. Just call and make a comment, you never know what you can get out of it. Costs you nothing but a little time.
Must be since I am a lawyer by trade I have no problem getting on people's cases when I am not satisfied.
There are snap rings that adjust the height of the spring seat effectively changing ride height.
There is no adjustment in rebound/compression damping.
JukeRedlin
New member
Sorry for the late reply had a family loss. Took precedence. This is great info. So if I lifted all four could I just replace the shocks myself? They only cost a couple hundred each and I could just replace them myself. Does the system need to be "recharged" or refilled with hydraulic? fluid or whatever kind it takes?If the XREAS system is intact and the shocks aren't leaking there is no need to flush and replace. There is enough slack if you disconnect the XREAS line support bracket in the wheel well to get access to work on it.
Like this:
Whatever you do, do not disconnect the hydraulic line at the shock/strut.
You can disconnect it further down the line at the junction block as there are check valves in place, but all 4 wheels must be lifted.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Rodtheviking
New member
You should spray the bejeebus out of stuff in NJ.
4Rnr4Evr
New member
So today I managed to get the 6112s in, though it took me basically the whole day so I left the UCAs for another time. I started around 11am and finished around 4pm, considering I needed about an hour for cleanup and had had no lunch I had to finish up.
It was mostly smooth sailing as I've done this kind of thing several times on my previous cars, and once on this vehicle when I bought it 2 years ago so I had all necessary tools to make it easy. The only real issue I had was with pushing the LCAs down far enough to get the strut on since I used the no-compressor method and the springs were fully extended. I had to loosen the LCA mounting bolts - that was enough on the driver side but the pass side was I guess just seized so it barely helped. The problem is I had to hold the whole strut assy up with one arm while pushing on the LCA with a long steel rod which was slipping all the time, and the strut assy is pretty heavy. But in the end I got it in after I got really angry and just gave it all I had (I was literally growling like an animal at that point). In retrospect I should have invested in a big pry bar. But anyway.
The only other item I would mention is that the relocation brackets I got ($20 ebay specials) needed a little grinding to clear the seam welds. Since I do this at work right in front of the machine shop I could take care of it easily but it would be somewhat unpleasant surprise if you're at home with just basic tools. Also the bolts they supply for the swaybar brackets are a touch too long so I had to add some lockwashers. Though now I'm thinking I may want to paint them black since they kinda stand out too much right now.
Since I didn't get to the UCAs and the struts are still settling in I'll refrain from reviews until I get the whole setup on and get aligned.
After I was finished and took my time cleaning up I wanted to kill a bit more time so the springs can settle a little (because I had to drive home), so I cleaned the MAF sensor and also did the ticking valve mod (2 rubber washers) which actually did help with the ticking.
Some pics:
Old struts removed and surface rust sprayed with fluid film:
6112 in
Relo bracket ground a little to clear the weld
All together
I will wire wheel this eventually and paint it but for now at least I put some new bolts
It was mostly smooth sailing as I've done this kind of thing several times on my previous cars, and once on this vehicle when I bought it 2 years ago so I had all necessary tools to make it easy. The only real issue I had was with pushing the LCAs down far enough to get the strut on since I used the no-compressor method and the springs were fully extended. I had to loosen the LCA mounting bolts - that was enough on the driver side but the pass side was I guess just seized so it barely helped. The problem is I had to hold the whole strut assy up with one arm while pushing on the LCA with a long steel rod which was slipping all the time, and the strut assy is pretty heavy. But in the end I got it in after I got really angry and just gave it all I had (I was literally growling like an animal at that point). In retrospect I should have invested in a big pry bar. But anyway.
The only other item I would mention is that the relocation brackets I got ($20 ebay specials) needed a little grinding to clear the seam welds. Since I do this at work right in front of the machine shop I could take care of it easily but it would be somewhat unpleasant surprise if you're at home with just basic tools. Also the bolts they supply for the swaybar brackets are a touch too long so I had to add some lockwashers. Though now I'm thinking I may want to paint them black since they kinda stand out too much right now.
Since I didn't get to the UCAs and the struts are still settling in I'll refrain from reviews until I get the whole setup on and get aligned.
After I was finished and took my time cleaning up I wanted to kill a bit more time so the springs can settle a little (because I had to drive home), so I cleaned the MAF sensor and also did the ticking valve mod (2 rubber washers) which actually did help with the ticking.
Some pics:
Old struts removed and surface rust sprayed with fluid film:
6112 in
Relo bracket ground a little to clear the weld
All together
I will wire wheel this eventually and paint it but for now at least I put some new bolts
Last edited:
4Rnr4Evr
New member
I set mine 4/2, according to the manual this should give ~2.13" lift, I measure after about 1 day ~2.25" both sides. Kind of want a little more but I'm afraid if I set them at the next setting they'd go way over 2.5" and I don't want that. I have some thin spacers that would do the trick but then not sure it's worth the hassle to gain what, 0.2" more?
RDOOGZ89
New member
Mine are set to the top, no complaints. I even took it wheeling over the weekend it it handled well. With the front diff drop the cv's are not at a bad angle either. What are your concerns?
I noticed you went with the front sway bar drop plate thing, was that just as a preemptive thing? Or did you need that for the new UCAs that are coming?
4Rnr4Evr
New member
I feel like ICON would be a good match, they're digressive just like the Bilsteins. Maybe FOX would be ok too.
RDOOGZ89
New member
Good stuff, I am curious to know how the ride will be on stock end links.
