Anyone replace ABS Control Module/Brake Booster??

rwh963

Member
long time issue here. took 4runner (2007 230k v6 4wd one owner) to the dealer in March. after $300 in diagnostics, they determined my issue is with the ABS control module back feeding into the system.

PLEASE REFERENCE THREAD: Brake lights constantly on?

afterwards, i examined the plastic encased module and noticed impact backs in the case. very weird. did it let in moisture for years and damage the computer boards?? no idea what happened.

since, been trying to figure if there is an alternative answer. even at discount, a new module is about $800 (P/N 47217-35010), new Master cylinder with booster is $1200 (P/N 47025-35070). add labor to that.

backstory: the original master /abs module was replaced any about 111k miles because of constant squealing. put in a used unit that had about 70k miles on it. things were fine until the past year or so (based on people telling me my brake lights are constantly on).

so, after several months, i'm am considering biting the bullet and replacing the unit again. now, i'm wondering how common this issue is. i think economically the best bet is to go with a used unit that includes the master cylinder ($1200 part), and having it independently installed. maybe three hours labor charge. probably in over $500. it is a crapshoot. i'm having to go on the dealer's conclusion. could be wrong.

does anyone have experience with these units, and their installation?
 
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and, has anyone just replaced the module? according to the dealer, that is the failing part. i would even consider a new one if i could do the replacement myself. not sure of tools/procedure.
 
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I'm wondering if when you did the replacement if the one you got was from a different year 4th Gens, I know the part number is different on the early year models to the later year models, if it wasn't from the same year as your T4R that could explain why it makes the brake lights stay lit up because of maybe different circuitry in the module.

When replacing this time make sure you get the proper part number and make sure the replacement has that same part number
 
I'm wondering if when you did the replacement if the one you got was from a different year 4th Gens, I know the part number is different on the early year models to the later year models, if it wasn't from the same year as your T4R that could explain why it makes the brake lights stay lit up because of maybe different circuitry in the module.

When replacing this time make sure you get the proper part number and make sure the replacement has that same part number

thx for the suggestion. i believe it was the correct PN.
 

thx for looking into it. i can actually get a new (not refurbished) unit like that for sub $1200. however, i only need the black plastic control module. replacing the whole unit is more complicated and i would outsource that (Labor $$). however, just the electronic unit might be a DIY effort, or at least a small $ labor cost. haven't found a "professional" level video demonstration of what that entails.
 
here are a couple of pics of what i discovered after the dealer diagnostic in march. i took a closer look at the module unit then, to discover serious impact cracks on the module housing! it was never noticed before. i don't know if the dealer did it, or the installer at 111k miles, or was it sold to me damaged and not noticed since. no clues. at this point, i need to replace the module.
 

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some pics of a module on ebay. maybe this will help someone explain how this mounts.
 

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With it having oil rings on the mounting plate, it would have brake fluid going into it, so at the very least it's going to take a special service tool to help bleed the air out of it once installed I would think.

As long as the master cylinder isn't messed with most anyone can bleed the brakes after messing with brake lines, calipers, etc., but with the modern ABS brakes system, once you open up the master cylinder in any way it's going to take a special service tool/scanner to open and close the ABS valves to release any trapped air when trying to bleed the master cylinder.
 
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in the end, it might be better to score a used complete unit here or on ebay or salvage yard. expect +/-$400. then probably another $2-300 for install. i've had good luck with the dealer price matching independent labor, might better to have the dealer do the install.
 
in the end, it might be better to score a used complete unit here or on ebay or salvage yard. expect +/-$400. then probably another $2-300 for install. i've had good luck with the dealer price matching independent labor, might better to have the dealer do the install.

You still f_cking with this sh1t!! What happened last time, you thought you had this figured out right? I'll have to read the old thread I can't remember all the details.
 
You still f_cking with this sh1t!! What happened last time, you thought you had this figured out right? I'll have to read the old thread I can't remember all the details.

jakeepoo, my bestie on this site! i knew you would chime in. yes, unresolved. i wouldn't bother reliving all that occurred in that thread. there is the possibility that thew dealer diagnosis is correct, and only one way to find out. if wrong, perhaps i can get my diagnosis $ back! my master cylinder other than the module is good, so i could sell that for something. no interest in spending $1200 on a new unit; used seem to be in the $3-500 range. might have the same dealer service do the install, that way if they are wrong, i would have better refund leverage. we'll see.
 
someone on ebay responded and told me that to remove the module you remove the plastic outer casing and there are bolts with wires that you back off to detach from the master cylinder/booster assembly.
 
Hey there budro! Yeah!, I still got your back. I'm lost at the moment on this.. I can't remember what all was diagnosed and replaced. If I remember correctly the diagnosis was a bad skid ECU do to a voltage back feed at the stop lamp input.. I'll get back to you later this evening after I refresh my memory. Any details you have not provided go ahead and post. ✌️
 
no new details really, except the ABS light has joined the club. drivability the same.

a little backstory on the current master cylinder. this isa one family owned 4runner, but i wasn't directly involved at 111k miles when the original started making noises. the then owner sourced a replacement at a salvage yard w/85k miles on it. because of the plastic module damage, i'm thinking they told the salvage yard they need a brake booster, and the yard sold one at discount because of the damage to the module, assuming the original module would be swapped over. that never happened, and we have been driving with the cracked plastic since 111k. over time, moisture may have entered, damaging the module. so the booster is fine, but the module is not, causing electronic flakiness. that's my theory.

best option is too replace the whole unit. i could probably sell the booster side for a couple hundred to recoup some costs.
 
wondering if the abs control module is also interfering with my acceleration. thinking throttle body, but maybe not.....
 

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