ARB Safari Snorkel Install

Hltoppr

New member
Since there are those of us who are getting the recently released snorkels from ARB, and for many, this may be their 1st attempt at cutting rather larger holes in the fender of an otherwise perfectly good truck, I figured I'd give a synopsis with photos of an install.

I've previously installed 4 other snorkels, with each of them having their own challenges. Overall, the 5th Generation Safari Snorkel from ARB was simple, with good instructions.

My take on the 2 difficult places:

1. Inner fender well lining. Have extra expandable fittings...even brand new I broke about 3. (OEM Part No. 90189-06065 List is $1.03 each.)

2. The rubber air tubing between the snorkel body and the air box was a bugger to put together...not impossible by any means, but patience and a few choice words were involved.

i-btfkx6F-L.jpg


So...on with the show.

Remove the factory air box. Easy. Two bolts inside; one outside on the firewall side.

This is the interior of my air box after one four hour trip to Grand Falls, on the Navajo Reservation in Northern Arizona. As can be seen...there's quite a bit of sand in the system. (Plus, I've already had the opportunity to ford 34" of water, which was the pucker factor of the year, as the truck had 300 miles on it at the time.) Thus, I consider a snorkel a necessary addition.

i-ZrGtNRj-L.jpg


Remove fender inner liner. Helps if your girlfriend likes doing the parts that frustrate you.

i-qtxBTrq-L.jpg


If you want, fill the lower drain and upper inspection holes in the air box with silicone.

i-hpFGSmk-L.jpg


i-jr5RHGf-L.jpg


Remove factory fender air-thingy.

i-vjtcwWd-L.jpg


Cut/file 25mm off of alignment notch. It will basically be the same length as the shorter ones on the air intake.

i-h89N35D-L.jpg


i-JVRtkMr-L.jpg


Now the fun begins.

Line up the template with the rear of the fender where it meets the door, and the top by the hood. Line it up again.

Line it up again...

Once you're satisfied, tape it in place.

Check alignment 2 more times....

i-brG6qcM-L.jpg


Mark your cut and drill holes. I used a white paint pen...graphite truck.

Once you're satisfied, remove the template and make sure the marks are visible.

Put the template back on, and make sure one last time the holes all line up.

Put a piece of tape along the fender flare, as to not get pieces of metal stuck in it.

Begin to cut! I used a dremel with a heavy cut off wheel. Went through 4 disks, but it worked just fine.

i-pTN56c2-L.jpg


Fender holes are drilled to 16mm with a step bit. I put tape where I'm supposed to stop. A punch is used to center the point of drilling, pilot holes could be used as well.

i-txrBKL3-L.jpg


i-KhFJGHf-L.jpg


File and paint all the nice holes you've made!

i-fXLdH5T-L.jpg


Install the studs in the snorkel body with some blue Loctite.

i-9fNLWJv-L.jpg


Install the A-Pillar bracket onto the snorkel body; hand tight. Put some tape on the A-Pillar itself so you can mark the bracket location.

Carefully place the snorkel body onto the fender. Helps if someone can hold it while you mark the bracket location on the A-Pillar.

i-CcMGQrp-L.jpg


You'll take the bracket off the snorkel body to make the final locating marks.

i-b6dH2Vn-L.jpg


I always put it on a second time and re-check. Drill some pilot holes, then out to 6mm using the step drill. File and paint the holes. I use silicone in these A-Pillar holes on snorkels before putting the plastic inserts in.

Install the A-Pillar bracket.

i-N5jfZDb-L.jpg


Now the part I found most difficult...your experience may vary.

Place the rubber airbox connector through the factory fender hole; this requires some effort, as the part that needs to be on the inside of the engine bay is slightly larger than the hole in the inner fender. Put the appropriate (smaller of the silver) hose clamps around the rubber connector where you can reach the adjustment. (This was close for me, as I've got a second battery right in the vicinity.)

i-nqNGnZw-L.jpg


i-fbN6VR5-L.jpg


Once that's on, I wrist-tightened it on the airbox, but left the airbox itself unbolted.

Install the larger of the silver hose clamps on the snorkel side of the rubber air tube, with the adjustment towards the rear; pointing down.

Next, and you're likely gonna need two people for this...install the body of the snorkel onto the fender; sliding the snorkel body fitting inside the rubber air tube. It's okay to curse a few times; maybe even take a short break...yeah, this was kindof a pain. I used some light grease to help it along.

Once you've finally gotten it in all the way, hand tighten the fender washers and nyloc nuts on the studs; make sure the A-Pillar bracket lines up.

Tighten the hose clamp on the snorkel side and the stud bolts, along with the A-Pillar bolts.

Re-attach the airbox and tighten the engine-bay hose clamp.

Attach the Ram Air head...if you want. I prefer a pre-cleaner...

Throw on your roof tent and get ready to go camping in the Altar-Pinacate deserts of Mexico; it's just that easy!

i-8GxfBjf-L.jpg


-H-
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
For those who are interested. The pre-cleaner is OEM world market 80 Series Land Cruiser.

i-zFDcjsT.jpg


Since there have been questions about air flow rates with this and the ARB Ram Head, I did a simple comparison of the two.

Non-dyno, air temp at 67° F. CFM at the Mass Airflow Sensor

RPM. ARB Cfm. OEM Birdfeeder Cfm

2000, 84.38, 81.25

3500, 155.00, 152.50

5000, 269.38, 263.13

Yes, this is more restrictive than the Ram Air ARB head.
-H-
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the write up...

Waiting on mine. :hungry:

The pre leaner looks interesting. Why not try the ram and see how it does first.
 
For those who are interested. The pre-cleaner is OEM world market 80 Series Land Cruiser.

i-zFDcjsT.jpg


-H-

DO NOT RUN THIS PART. This is intended for Diesel engines and will be detrimental for your engine short or long term.

Seriously. ARB confirmed this is not recommended and bad for your engine.
 
Interesting. The airflow numbers should be adequate... I did the math.

Any specific reasons they gave?

-H-

They are not adequate. ARB tested this on their fleet vehicle and it gave them nothing but issues. This part is intended for a diesel motor. Please stick to the OEM parts. We tested a lot of intakes and the right balance is the one it's designed for.
 
Will do. Thanks for the input!

-H-

I want to give some context, because trust me if it was a better intake I'd be running it. In the best case it ran the engine's air intake lean, mostly not enough to trip the MAF sensor, but extremely close. In the worst case it was tripping the MAF sensor every single time.

I have one of those intakes, along with a couple more centrifugal style, we tested, and there's not enough juice to be worth the squeeze. As I said before, unless you are driving in a haboob every day a pre-filter isn't needed, and it's not worth the cost when just knocking the air filter out your leg will do a better job.
 
Interesting. The airflow numbers should be adequate... I did the math.

Any specific reasons they gave?

-H-

DO NOT RUN THIS PART. This is intended for Diesel engines and will be detrimental for your engine short or long term.

Seriously. ARB confirmed this is not recommended and bad for your engine.

I'm curious about this as well. This should really be no different than running a restricted or dirty air filter in terms of air flow and well within the range of adjustment of the MAF and ECM. I could see it reducing engine power slightly but this wouldn't really be much different than turning the air scoop backwards, which they say is allowable in their press release.
 
Buy the part, waste the money. Your call. However it was deemed detrimental to the engine and everyone, guys smarter than I, looked at dyno numbers and felt the results would be bad for the engine long term.

If everyone on this forum suddenly lives in Namibia and is the primary purchaser of this snorkel that's suddenly news to me. :wow:
 
Though I certainly respect the amount of meticulous work, prep, patience, and cajones to do this mod to the 4R, the rational side of me tells me a few things:

1) This thing is absolutely hideous.
2) Unless you live in a part of the world where your town gets floods on an annual basis, or you really like to take your 4R under deep waters during your spare time, I don't see the point.
3) You can pretty much kiss your T4R's resale goodbye after doing this mod.
4) And lastly, did I mention this thing is just absolutely hideous?
 
3) You can pretty much kiss your T4R's resale goodbye after doing this mod.

Doubtful, there are so many folks paying large premiums for appearance packages it would probably be a selling point for resale. People buy trucks with aftermarket bumpers all the time, I would bet it has no impact on resale.

On the appearance, I'll refer back to my previous post from a couple days ago while drinking...
 
Doubtful, there are so many folks paying large premiums for appearance packages it would probably be a selling point for resale. People buy trucks with aftermarket bumpers all the time, I would bet it has no impact on resale.

On the appearance, I'll refer back to my previous post from a couple days ago while drinking...

We can now mark time via two kinds of posts:

-Dumb Snorkel Posts Before Release
-Dumb Snorkel Posts After Release

REJOICE FOR WE ARE IN THE YEAR OF OUR LORD 2017 DSPAR
 
Great thread. I installed mine today. The far and hard to reach studs, I used some silicone sealant on the washers to get them to stick so I could attach the nuts. I used a ratcheting wrench to tighten them down. And I opted to seal the two holes in the air box using marine grade sealant.
 
This will be one of the last things I do. I feel it will later be necessary but not for a couple years. I need my RTT and armor first.... but I still want it now lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,312
Messages
3,554,089
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top