AssBurns 2000 Limited Build Thread

[AssBurns]

Went for a run with some 4runner guys from a local 3rd gen FB group. All great guys to wheel with. We did Holcomb Creek Trail up in Big Bear area. It’s rated a black diamond but it’s not the hardest of the few black diamond up there. I still only have 2wd so I knew it was going to be a challenge which is what makes these trails fun. Had to get pulled a couple times. First one was at the first rock obstacle at the west end creek crossing. Got hung up on my diff and didn’t want to waste anyone’s time by trying to get out myself so I just got the strap out. Coulda made it with a better line. Second one was at the middle rock garden. Made it to the top and just couldn’t stick the line since everything was full of mud. Started to get pulled but slid off the rock I was on, so I backed up and took one more shot at it, making it up on my own at that point. Then I was messing around on some ledge off to the side of the trail and slipped to the side as I bumped it up. Broke my ring and pinion. Had to run the last half of the trail with a nice loud pop every wheel rotation. It progressively got a little worse. By the time we got to the gate keeper on the west end, I was grinding pretty bad when going slow. The very last rock at the end caused it to get bad enough that I would just grind every time the tires slipped. Out came the strap again.


The aftermath...

Draining the diff was more work than it should have been. The ring around the plug was so mangled I couldn’t get a socket on it. Cleaned it all up with a Dremal and rounded the edges to help keep it from happening again too easy.

While I had the fluid out, I figured it would be a good time to weld on the diff protection.

My lower link mounts were starting to wallow out so I bought some Ruff Stuff weld washers to fix it. Great product for a really good price. Didn’t get any after pics but the passenger side was pretty bad.

 

[JBurt]

Dude! How did you get home? What are the plans now? I don't think I've ever seen a diff like that.

 

[Black798]

Holy shit! that's by far the worst Ive seen someone strip off a ring gear. Looks like you went after it with an angle grinder. I thought my front end that is still spitting out chunks of spider gear was bad but damn. Seeing this kind of stuff is what scares me off of the thought of ever going to 35s

 

[85straight]

Sorry man it was my fault, I voted no on your intsagram poll the other day loleep:

 

[AssBurns]

Sorry man it was my fault, I voted no on your intsagram poll the other day loleep:

I literally laughed out loud at this!


[MENTION=84643]JBurt[/MENTION] I drove down to Running Springs and called AAA. The plan now is to try to warranty it through ECGS. This is the second time I've done this now. Last time I went through ECGS and they have a 5 year warranty on all rebuilt 3rd members and Differentials.


[MENTION=121903]Black798[/MENTION] It wasn't so bad when it first happened. I think at first it was just a couple teeth on the ring gear but the pinion gear felt fine. After driving almost 2 miles through the trail then another 10 miles or so to the nearest town with cell service it looks and felt a hell of a lot worse than it did when it first happened. Make the jump to 35's and don't drive like an ass and try to do stuff in 2wd that requires 4wd and you'll be fine.

 

[Black798]

[MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] Im really considering skipping 33s and going straight to 35s. I just feel like they might be a bit much for what I do since Im able to do basically everything I want with 265s. Plus the big hit to fuel economy and the larger chance of breaking stuff that comes with 35s.

 

[AssBurns]

[MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] Im really considering skipping 33s and going straight to 35s. I just feel like they might be a bit much for what I do since Im able to do basically everything I want with 265s. Plus the big hit to fuel economy and the larger chance of breaking stuff that comes with 35s.

35's are definitely a big commitment, especially if you're like me and don't like body lifts or rubbing. If you are willing to put in the work and willing to take the hit on some fuel mileage, then they are totally worth the upgrade. Clearance and traction make a huge difference. Most people can get by with 33's for most of the stuff they do. It really depends on what you do with your vehicle. I'd at least make the jump to 33's. By the time those wear out, you'll know if you need 35's or not.

 

[theesotericone]

I'd at least make the jump to 33's. By the time those wear out, you'll know if you need 35's or not.

And when the 35's wear out you'll want 37's. When the 37's are done, 40's. I went true 33's cause I need to get my wife another DD before I start doing the real modding.

 

[Black798]

35's are definitely a big commitment, especially if you're like me and don't like body lifts or rubbing. If you are willing to put in the work and willing to take the hit on some fuel mileage, then they are totally worth the upgrade. Clearance and traction make a huge difference. Most people can get by with 33's for most of the stuff they do. It really depends on what you do with your vehicle. I'd at least make the jump to 33's. By the time those wear out, you'll know if you need 35's or not.

Im for sure going to 33s on my next set, 265s just look too small at this point. A body lift is out of the question because I hate body gaps and Im not rebuilding all of my bumpers and sliders and I want everything to clear. My biggest push to 35s is the extra flotation for snow wheeling and I dont think driveability would be all that bad since Im slightly regearing to 4.30s with my replacement diff and they're only a few pounds heavier

 

[AssBurns]

And when the 35's wear out you'll want 37's. When the 37's are done, 40's. I went true 33's cause I need to get my wife another DD before I start doing the real modding.

Pretty sure I’ll go to 37’s next, but at that point I’ll hopefully be on full width axles. Pretty sure I’ll never have 40’s on this vehicle. Too big and I won’t ever get the up travel I’d want with them. Plus I’d need a little more horsepower. Hopefully an LS swap pickup build someday.

Im for sure going to 33s on my next set, 265s just look too small at this point. A body lift is out of the question because I hate body gaps and Im not rebuilding all of my bumpers and sliders and I want everything to clear. My biggest push to 35s is the extra flotation for snow wheeling and I dont think driveability would be all that bad since Im slightly regearing to 4.30s with my replacement diff and they're only a few pounds heavier

4.30’s were pretty decent with 33’s but it’s only tolerable with 35’s. I can’t wait to get the 5.29’s in. ECGS said they should be able to put in whatever gears I want when they fix the rear end. Then I need to decide what to do with the front once I figure out the problem.

 

[Black798]

[MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] I was thinking about the issue that you're having with your front end and had an idea after seeing how my front end has been acting lately. with the broken teeth which oddly showed no symptoms of being broken.

I noticed that lately with the broken spider gears, that IMO are not damaged all that bad, my front end and entire 4wd has been binding up a lot more when I turn even on ice and there's a decent amount of oil that gets spit out of the breather whenever I use 4wd.

Im wondering if you cracked off some spider gear teeth in the front and they bound up just right so that it's making it act as if your front end was welded. I think if this was the case with 35s and stock CVs you very easily could break one in a matter of feet.

Id say pull your drain plug and see if you get any chunks or really shiny stuff that come out with the oil and inspect your gears through the drain hole, you can see most of the carrier through it. That way youll know for sure if your issue lies in the diff or elsewhere.

From what Ive seen these gears are pretty damn fragile, based off the wheeling you do I think its pretty likely you have some busted teeth.

EDIT:
Went back and looked at your pictures and saw that it was the inner tripod joint that broke which also seems odd since its usually the outer cage that grenades. Was the joint actually broke or did it just pull out of the cup? maybe you have a bent spindle or the diff somehow got pushed off center when the ADD tube got bent.

 

[AssBurns]

[MENTION=121903]Black798[/MENTION] I think you are right with the spider gears. Which is why I don’t have any issues going straight. I did feel a very slight resistance when spinning the wheels by hand but no real binding, so chipped spider gears could be what’s binding under pressure.

I’m going to try to pull the front diff this weekend if I have time. Actually probably not since the rear end is on jack stands and my driveway is sloped, so I can’t safely lift the whole vehicle up and work on it. Should have taken it apart on the side yard where it’s flat...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[AssBurns]

A couple new things are in the works. Firstly, still waiting on my rear diff to get finished and sent back to me from ECGS. They agreed to put 5.29 gears in it instead of the 4.30 that i had before. I only had to pay $50 for the double drilled flange. Should have the diff back next week sometime. Taking longer than expected, but not gonna complain too much when they are doing me a favor.

Second thing is I just placed my order for all the parts needed to start my double triangulated 4-link. I was able to get most of the stuff needed from Ballistic Fab. I ordered all 8 Ballistic joints with jam nuts and tube adapters (4 sets of RH thread & 4 LH thread), link mounting brackets and tabs for all corners, and the spanner wrench for the joints. Only thing I need to buy is the material for the crossmember and the DOM tubing for the links themselves and the hardware for the links and removable crossmember. For the crossmember, I will probably just get some 2" x 4" x .120" square tubing tucked right below the transfer case yoke. The stock rear crossmember will obviously be cut off. Super stoked to get all the parts and start working on it all. I need to move/replace my muffler, and eliminate the rear catalytic converter first though.

 

[theesotericone]

A couple new things are in the works. Firstly, still waiting on my rear diff to get finished and sent back to me from ECGS. They agreed to put 5.29 gears in it instead of the 4.30 that i had before. I only had to pay $50 for the double drilled flange. Should have the diff back next week sometime. Taking longer than expected, but not gonna complain too much when they are doing me a favor.

I need to move/replace my muffler, and eliminate the rear catalytic converter first though.

So ECGS is warrantying it? Let me know how's those 5.29's treat you at some point. I'm still sitting on the damn 4.88/5.29 fence. 33.3's currently but you know that's gonna get bigger. lol

Are you in a smog once county? Ditching the rear cat might cause it to fail CA smog.

 

[AssBurns]

So ECGS is warrantying it? Let me know how's those 5.29's treat you at some point. I'm still sitting on the damn 4.88/5.29 fence. 33.3's currently but you know that's gonna get bigger. lol

Are you in a smog once county? Ditching the rear cat might cause it to fail CA smog.

Yeah it's under their 5 year warranty, which is why I went with them in the first place. They did ask why it was so bad though haha. From what I've heard, 5.29's are the shit for 35's as long as you don't do a lot of 80+ mph long distance highway driving. I'll let you know how they feel with 35's. I bet they would be pretty nice with the tires you have now, until you hit the highway.

I don't mess with the SMOG BS. I just pay someone to pass it until I get it registered in AZ next year. No SMOG and registration is less than $100 for 5 years. I'll do that once I get a daily driver.

 

[theesotericone]

I bet they would be pretty nice with the tires you have now, until you hit the highway.

That's the problem. I'm always on the highway and drive at 78MPH. I could just go with 5.29 's and drive like a normal person till I step up to 35's. These Ridge Grapplers are gonna take forever to wear out though. 7000 miles on them and they look brand new.

If I go 4.88 it'd be perfect for the 33's and even OK for 35's. Once I go 37's though I'm hosed. I'd like to do this once but I might just end up doing it twice. lol

 

[AssBurns]

That's the problem. I'm always on the highway and drive at 78MPH. I could just go with 5.29 's and drive like a normal person till I step up to 35's. These Ridge Grapplers are gonna take forever to wear out though. 7000 miles on them and they look brand new.

If I go 4.88 it'd be perfect for the 33's and even OK for 35's. Once I go 37's though I'm hosed. I'd like to do this once but I might just end up doing it twice. lol

Just get 5.29’s and deal with 33’s for a little bit, then sell them to offsetting the cost of 35’s so you don’t have to deal with it for so long. That way you are perfectly setup for 35’s and still good if you get to 37’s.

 

[AssBurns]

Got my rear 3rd member back from ECGS over the weekend. Took much longer than it should have and ECGS admitted that, so they didn’t charge me the $50 for the double drilled flange needed for the 5.29 gears. They also didn’t charge me for the shipping too them, which should have cost roughly $50. I spoke with Kevin last Wednesday about an update and he said they totally dropped the ball and have been super swamped. He promised me that the diff would be shipped that day. ECGS definitely has some of the best customer service around. I will definitely continue to use them from here on out for all my gear and axle needs.

So in total this whole ordeal cost me a few weeks without my rig and $5 for a Home Depot bucket to ship the diff in. My neighbor even bought my gear oil for helping him with a project of his since he was already at the auto parts store. Not bad at all!

Now I need to decide what to do about my front end. I’m debating on an ARB or Lunchbox locker. I was gonna just do the lunchbox locker to save money since I knew I wanted to cut the front end off anyways, but then reality kicked in and I know I won’t have the time (or money) to tackle that project anytime soon. Trying to be 100% debt free and buy my wife a new vehicle first. Maybe summer 2019 I can tackle that project. So now I have a longer term plan to keep my front end the way it is for at least another year, I might as well spend the extra money on an ARB up front. I don’t really have an extra $1500 laying around (to spend on the 4runner), so once I save up some 4runner funds, I’ll be going with an ARB up front.

So far I am really enjoying these 5.29 gears. I’ve got about 100 miles on them so far but most of them are city and only a couple miles at 70+mph on the highway. Definitely glad I went with 5.29 gears. The BeerRunner is still slow but it gets up just a little better off the line and it’s shifting points are back to where I feel they should be. I don’t feel like I would have been happy with 4.88. I honestly thought that the 5.29’s would be more noticeable based on what some folks were saying. 35’s + Auto trans = 5.29’s IMO.


The bucket I shipped it in.

Cleaned and Rebuilt 3rd Member

Project I helped my neighbor with. It’s a bracket for his air hose reel.

Quick celebratory test in some dirt by my house.

 

[4-Ripcord]

Trying to be 100% debt free and buy my wife a new vehicle first.

Very respectable goal my friend! I wish you the best of luck and determination on reaching it and beyond. I have recently found the same goal, the truck is all I have left to pay off.

Great job with the gears! With how much I use the highway, I don't know if I could handle 5.29s. But man they would have been nice to have at certain points. And agree 1000% on ECGS, they are the tits.

 

[Horsethief]

Wow, great build!

I'm just starting the search for a 99 or 00 Ltd, and your first few pages is pretty much what I want to do with it.

Great work on all the fab works, it reminds me that I want to brush up on my welding skills and learn to fab.