AssBurns
New member
Made some progress this weekend. Did a whole lot of cutting. At first it was a little nerve racking cutting into so many irreversible parts, but eventually you get used to it. First I started with the inner fenders. I needed to make room for tires at full stuff and full flex. With enough cutting I was able to clear in all directions. The tire is super close to the door at full flex, but I am able to get away without touching the door itself. Now that everything was cut out of the way, I was able to start working on the new bump stops. Once I cut the old bump stop mounts off, I quickly realized it wasn’t going to be as easy as cutting a hole in the frame and welding the can into it. The bump stop was quite a bit further up into the frame than I was picturing in my head, so at this point it was time to get creative. I needed to make a sleeve to hold the bump can in, but the bolts they hold the strike pad in place are over 2.25” wide. So I couldn’t just sleeve it with 2.25” ID tubing. So I figured I’d just use 2.50 x 1.20” wall tubing, sleeved inside 2.75” x .120” wall tubing so that I had room for those strike pad bolts. Unfortunately the only metal supply that was open on the weekends, didn’t have any of that size DOM tubing. So I had to rethink my options and see what they had available. I ended up going with 2.5” x .120” wall HREW sleeved inside 2.5” Sch 40 Pipe. Now I know pipe doesn’t have the same structural integrity as tubing but I figured at over 3/16” wall thickness, I shouldn’t have to worry about much in the strength aspect. I got back home and went to town on cutting out the frame rails to French the bumps into the frame rails. After sweating in the heat for a few hours (well more than just a few hours), I had them in and gusseted. Now time to clean things up and prep for paint, then move onto finish tubbing the wheel wells. Thanks to [MENTION=121903]Black798[/MENTION]’s great idea of using some round rod to creat a frame for some structure and for the sheet metal to form and weld to. I will be using some 5/16” rod to create a frame structure when tubing the wheel wells. It should be fairly simple, but I’m sure it’ll be way more work than I am picturing. I also cut my drivers side coil by a half a wrap to even out the coil height and lower the compressed length of the coil. I should have a collapsed height of about 4”, whole I have about 4.5” of clearance between top and bottom coil buckets. Fingers crossed that it works out fine.
On to some pics
Shocks completely bottomed out at 1/2” below the frame rails. Bump stops are set for about 1/2” below that for obvious reasons.
Where did my axle go?!
The 2.5” ID pipe over the 2.5” OD tubing
Welding them in with a piece of 2.0” x .250” Tubing to keep the cans from warping.
Some gussets to help keep the frame strength.
Finished product one the other side.
On to some pics
Shocks completely bottomed out at 1/2” below the frame rails. Bump stops are set for about 1/2” below that for obvious reasons.
Where did my axle go?!
The 2.5” ID pipe over the 2.5” OD tubing
Welding them in with a piece of 2.0” x .250” Tubing to keep the cans from warping.
Some gussets to help keep the frame strength.
Finished product one the other side.
Last edited: