ATF Exchange (using the cooling line)


I love the comments about massive thermal breakdown; however, the viscosity differences between ML and WS at temperature are essentially identical. Sure, you can say one number looks better than the other but the reality of it is they're very similar. Viscosity is a unique exteemely nonlinear quantifiable data point. Moreover, the test temperatures exceed any number you'd want to see inside your transmission. Keep it under 200F.
 
Last edited:
You misunderstand. He is not recommending a powered flush he is recommending a fluid exchange via the cooling lines. Big difference. Learn to read.
 
Last edited:
Ok so you wont answer lol. You are telling everyone out there its 100% ok to flush a high mileage transmission when there are tons of threads out there of failure right after. Good thing you dont work at my Toyota dealership.

I didn't flush anything bud. No pressure was used. Show me these tons of Toyota A750 SPECIFIC threads.
 
I really liked post #207 in the tacoma forum...

(quote)

oh god here we go again

it comes down to this
----------------------------------------------
use which fluid ? a or b

a--[what aisin and toyota engineers and materials scientists formulate as the fluid to use]

vs

b--[what some team of unknown and unaccountable random $%#$% trying to reverse engineer what toyota paid millions for recommend, because it's a conspiracy]​

Don't let this thread die!

:bump2::bump2::bump2:

As for me... I've decided to use water with 3 advil tablets for all of my fluids except gasoline.

It's done wonders for me for the past 48 years. How could not be PURRRRRFECT for my tranny, diffs, transfer case, windshield fluid, power steering, and more!
(he he!)

:peep:
 
Last edited:
150k (-ish) flush done

Whew... done with the 150k ATF service. What a nightmare. Overall the procedure as mentioned in the OP worked fine. My bottle pump broke on me so I had to run to autozone. I got their version of the orange fluid pump (don't have a Harbor Freight near me). It worked one time and then lost prime when I switched ATF bottles and I couldn't get it to work again (?@##@!!!!). So I went back to AZ and got another bottle pump (the one that fits quarts and gallons). I got it to screw on the WS bottled just fine. I didn't have time to fiddle with that orange thing. The trick to pumping the other ones is brace the top on the truck somewhere ( I used the lip of the tranny pan, where the pan bolts are) and pump it against the truck.

When I did my first drain from the pan, it was nice and red looking, and smelled like regular ATF (no burned odor). Not at all like when I drained/filled at 100k. I'm pretty easy on my transmission (not a lot of towing, or wheeling, and no mountains) so I'm sure that had something to do with it, but I was happy to see the condition looked pretty good. I wish I had thought of pulling a sample to send to blackstone. Oh well.

Oh and the benefit of changing your fluid when its hot a Hades out.... it's quick to get it up to operating temp to check the level...

Skimmed a bit of the WS conspiracy thread in TW (oh brother..).... reminded me: Anyone have reports of using Valvoline MaxLife ATF?? I think a couple guys used it in the past (or even results of the Amsoil ATF). Just wondering if I might just go with Valvoline next time... maybe...

Carry on...
 
Did you notice any difference after doing it? Did it shift smoother or anything?
15.gif
2.gif

1.gif
 
I used the Valvoline Maxlife and it shifted way smoother. Took my rumble strip issue away completely and made a noticeable difference in shifting.
2005 V6


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Glad to hear about the MaxLife results. I might do a switch to that next time and save a little coin. I'm well out of warranty so no issues with that. If I hadn't had so many WS bottles left over from last time I would have gone to Valvoline.

Carry on...
 
Can anyone confirm that the drain procedure using the "AT temp" check light on the dash works on a 2WD V6 ? I ask because this light does NOT illuminate when I turn the key on before starting the engine. I'm not sure it's an active light on a 2WD. thanks!
 
I just did this, and I have a few notes to help anyone working on it in the future. The procedure is basically perfect! Thanks!

I used one of the pumps that looks like a soap dispenser that screws on the top of a quart bottle. It worked fine, but it was a lot of pumping. I had to extend the hose to about 3 feet to reach from the bottle into the fill hole.

I measured the fluid that came out of the pan on the first drain, and it was slightly more than 3 quarts.

Later, not thinking about that, when I was almost done I removed the drip port bolt because I didn't want to risk starting it with the transmission maybe overfilled. Don't do this! Fluid came streaming out because when it's cold and the engine is off there is more fluid in the pan than when it's running and warm. I had to add fluid once it warmed up.

To add fluid once it was warm, rather than risk burning my hand on the dangerously hot catalytic converter removing the fill bolt, I held the fluid pump hose up to the drip port and pumped some more in until it streamed out when I moved the hose. It was messy, but better than burning my hand or waiting until it was cool. In my opinion the transmission is poorly designed if the fluid level needs to be so precise, and if it needs to be checked while the exhaust is dangerously hot. Engines work fine a few quarts over or under.

I forgot to cycle through gears, but it probably didn't matter. By 11.5 quarts my fluid was more red than brown (but not 100% new), so I decided that was close enough.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,310
Messages
3,554,080
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top