I recently picked up an 06 SR5 V6 2wd with 165K on it, and although I don't have any issues with the tranny, I also have zero service records for this truck at all. My local Toyota dealer, who have a pretty stellar reputation, quoted me about $280 out the door to do the whole fluid replacement procedure using 16qts and claim it gets about 95% replacement. They don't even offer a "flush" for the same reasons so many in here and myself don't like the idea. Does this seem reasonable and a good idea to do? They told me today when I got an oil change that overall it is really clean and solid 4Runner, and there was nothing that they saw requiring any immediate attention, but this was a good preventative measure being that we have no history at all.
ATF Exchange (using the cooling line)
- Thread starter 46runner
- Start date
Just did this version with my 08 V6- crazy easy. I am pretty OCD about the truck and at 170k, I had the shop do a full exchange with 12qts of WS. My slight bumper strip shimmy was still there after this, so I did 5oz of Lubeguard Red and 4qts of Maxlife ATF at 185k- this eliminated the shimmy but I wanted to switch to Maxlife for its (potentially) better heat resistance and detergency ( dont' flame me, I just like the fluid)
Just hit 200k and did the full exchange through the cooler line. On the 08 V6 without transmission cooler, the hose is the top hose driver side next to the battery. 3/8 ID line on the metal nipple on the radiator hooked to a funnel. Then a double 3/8 plastic male nipple with more 3/8 hose down by the wheel to hold the waste bucket. Did 2 qts each time, at the end added another 8oz of Lubeguard red. The old fluid, while only having less than 30k on it, looked moderately dark already. Anecdotally, the WS doesn't hold up to heat very well, and I do some towing, lots of hauling in the truck, and quite a bit of driving in the heat, so it's possible it was breaking down a bit already-
I also dropped the pan prior to the exchange and cleaned off the magnets and wiped out the pan- I wish I hadn't done this, it was time consuming and there was really little in there! The filter looked new.
I'm going to do a 4qt exchange out of the cooler every 25k from now on, just to keep it fresh, and I'm NEVER opening the actual transmission again.
Just hit 200k and did the full exchange through the cooler line. On the 08 V6 without transmission cooler, the hose is the top hose driver side next to the battery. 3/8 ID line on the metal nipple on the radiator hooked to a funnel. Then a double 3/8 plastic male nipple with more 3/8 hose down by the wheel to hold the waste bucket. Did 2 qts each time, at the end added another 8oz of Lubeguard red. The old fluid, while only having less than 30k on it, looked moderately dark already. Anecdotally, the WS doesn't hold up to heat very well, and I do some towing, lots of hauling in the truck, and quite a bit of driving in the heat, so it's possible it was breaking down a bit already-
I also dropped the pan prior to the exchange and cleaned off the magnets and wiped out the pan- I wish I hadn't done this, it was time consuming and there was really little in there! The filter looked new.
I'm going to do a 4qt exchange out of the cooler every 25k from now on, just to keep it fresh, and I'm NEVER opening the actual transmission again.
I've read a ton of replies and posts. I'll be to The point.
I have a 2003 4.7 V8 with an external cooler on the drivers side.
It HAS a dipstick for the transmission.
1. Anyone have a pic they can post or link to the fluid check bolt?
2. Can I fill via the dipstick and not use the unlocatable fill plug?
3. To flush/cycle through the fluid, would I disconnect the line at the top of the cooler?
I've read it would take up to 3 hours and also read less than 15 minutes? Please help. It's my daughter's vehicle and I'm trying to get rid of the dreaded "rumble strip" vibration.
Thanks everyone!
I have a 2003 4.7 V8 with an external cooler on the drivers side.
It HAS a dipstick for the transmission.
1. Anyone have a pic they can post or link to the fluid check bolt?
2. Can I fill via the dipstick and not use the unlocatable fill plug?
3. To flush/cycle through the fluid, would I disconnect the line at the top of the cooler?
I've read it would take up to 3 hours and also read less than 15 minutes? Please help. It's my daughter's vehicle and I'm trying to get rid of the dreaded "rumble strip" vibration.
Thanks everyone!
AuSeeker
Elite Member
I replied to your other post, you have no "check fluid level plug" nor do you have a "fill plug" on the 2003, if you plan on doing a "drain and fill" and not a complete fluid exchange, simply pull the plug on the transmission pan and drain the fluid, replace the plug and the fill it via the dipstick tube, be sure to use the correct fluid, it's not the WS fluid we use in the sealed transmission, look in your owner manual or on the dip stick for the proper fluid to use.
Everyone who does the 'drain and fill" repeats this process around 4 to 5 times every month or two until they have replaced most all the old fluid.
If you plan on doing a complete fluid exchange drain the pan and then replace the plug, then add about the same amount you drained via the dipstick tube, then remove more fluid via the cooling line, add more new fluid and repeat until you have clean fluid coming out.
Thank you for the clarification. I must have missed your other reply. I'll do the complete exchange. I called Valvolene to confirm which trans fluid of theirs to use.
Side note: I checked the transfer case and it was dry. Less than a few ml's. I refilled it and parked it overnight. While I was under the vehicle today I noticed it was leaking so that'll be another project.
Side note: I checked the transfer case and it was dry. Less than a few ml's. I refilled it and parked it overnight. While I was under the vehicle today I noticed it was leaking so that'll be another project.
Transmission shop quote
I stopped by a local trans shop to get their input. They have seen a lot of 4Runners with this shudder issue. They suggested a rebuild and would be roughly 4k. They said the TC MAYBE able to be replaced only but there is a chance the pieces from a broken TC could migrate to the trans. It seems a shame because if it wasn't for the shudder, the trans shifts smooth as butter.
I stopped by a local trans shop to get their input. They have seen a lot of 4Runners with this shudder issue. They suggested a rebuild and would be roughly 4k. They said the TC MAYBE able to be replaced only but there is a chance the pieces from a broken TC could migrate to the trans. It seems a shame because if it wasn't for the shudder, the trans shifts smooth as butter.
AuSeeker
Elite Member
Do the fluid exchange, you have nothing to lose!
The transmission shop is in business to replace or rebuild transmissions, what else would they tell you, the transmission has a metal screen in the pan any fluid coming from the torque converter goes directly into the pan, the screen should prevent most if not all of any "possible pieces" from getting any further than the screen.
Many here have experience the same issue you have and most solved the issue by changing out the fluid, I haven't read of anyone having total transmission failure after doing the fluid exchange.
montijo505
Senior Member
What [MENTION=149207]AuSeeker[/MENTION] said is spot on. You have nothing to lose by doing the transmission fluid exchange. Also add some anti shudder when you do it. I’m not sure what product people are using as I haven’t experienced the issue but maybe someone else can chime in.
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I did the exchange with 16 quarts. The fluid was really clean and I suspect the previous owner may have had the same issue in the past and that was a band-aid. I also added the shudder stop but haven't driven it enough to notice if the shudder has subsided. I may get one more and put that in. It said in "extreme cases" to add a total of 2. Couldn't hurt for another 10 bucks.
Has anyone gotten a rebuilt or used lower milage trans and put it in instead of a total rebuild at a shop? 4k is a lot if not what the vehicle is worth. I think a reman and install would be about 1k which would be worth it IMO.
Has anyone gotten a rebuilt or used lower milage trans and put it in instead of a total rebuild at a shop? 4k is a lot if not what the vehicle is worth. I think a reman and install would be about 1k which would be worth it IMO.
firebirdguy
Member
just an FYI: if the trans shifts good as you say it does not need a full rebuild as the trans shop is trying to tell you. the torque converter isnt physically broken where pieces of metal are getting into the trans, its just gone bad internally & 99% of the time a new TC is all thats needed to fix the rumble issue.
also it takes awhile for the shudder fix to work, drive it for a hundred miles or so & see what happens, then add a 2nd bottle & see what that does. if it still rumbles then look into a TC change only, not a full trans rebuild. & maybe go to another shop that wont try to sell you something you dont need.
also it takes awhile for the shudder fix to work, drive it for a hundred miles or so & see what happens, then add a 2nd bottle & see what that does. if it still rumbles then look into a TC change only, not a full trans rebuild. & maybe go to another shop that wont try to sell you something you dont need.
After 4 years of this thread it still works like a charm, i did this today and took me a few hours prepping, considering i just do normal things like change oil etc this was a very very good guide.
The only thing i will add to an already amazing guide is to use 6 point sockets, especially on the refill plug which is 15/16 or 24mm, and also an electric pump would work amazing in this application
the atf cooling line was a lot more forward under the vehicle than i had guessed but it was easy to find and worked amazing
The reason why i did this was i had no idea when it was last changed and i had the rumble strip at 40-45mph, now it has 99% gone and this is only after driving 10 miles, i didnt add a dr tranny TC fix.
Thank you so much 46Runner you are the man!
Dave
The only thing i will add to an already amazing guide is to use 6 point sockets, especially on the refill plug which is 15/16 or 24mm, and also an electric pump would work amazing in this application
the atf cooling line was a lot more forward under the vehicle than i had guessed but it was easy to find and worked amazing
The reason why i did this was i had no idea when it was last changed and i had the rumble strip at 40-45mph, now it has 99% gone and this is only after driving 10 miles, i didnt add a dr tranny TC fix.
Thank you so much 46Runner you are the man!
Dave
firebirdguy
Member
what fluid did you use?
AuSeeker
Elite Member
It is.
firebirdguy
Member
WS is correct, was curious if you went with another option.
firebirdguy
Member
comes from the TC. the trans & TC gets its "new" or cooled fluid from the pan.
doing an exchange you are pumping out fluid from the converter then refilling the pan to to cycle new fluid through the trans & TC.
& dont fill through the cooling line, takes forever & makes it so much harder than it needs to be. use the fill hole on the side of the trans as it was designed for.
firebirdguy
Member
The tube stays in hole Correct?
When the engine is started, it won't splash out ?[/QUOTE
if you mean the fill tube, yes it should stay in place. it goes in enough to hold it. be sure that you fill the fluid with engine off & wait until its all drained back to the trans. then start the engine to pump out 2 qts in the jug on the ground. wasnt sure if you meant the engine ran while you filled the new fluid.:
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