Back lighting after market switches

[GrantK]

OK, I confess. I've been back lighting my add-on switches via a relay controlled by ignition on. While this works 'OK', it isn't what I really want. What I want is for the back lighting on my switches to turn on and off with the head lights, just like the stock/factory switches do.

Does anyone know how much current I can draw from one of the existing switch's back lighting LED that is tied to the headlight control? I'm not sure how much current the 'standard' automotive relay I'm using draws but even surge current should be under 1A.

If someone has already found a good tie point for doing this, please save me re-inventing your work and let me know where you tied in.

Thanks in advance.

 

[rigtec]

Hi [MENTION=13878]GrantK[/MENTION],

Your current draw to the instrument cluster circuit is negledgable (mA). When I installed my in-dash foglight switch, I tapped into the "RSCA" illumination circuit because it was convenient. The green wire is illumination (dimmer), gray is gnd circ.

Note: The dimmer rheostat control is on the ground side! Cheers

 

[barryhiram]

Yup, green and gray are what you're after as indicated by [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION]

Not sure what brand switch you have, but if you want to "kick it up a notch" and match back light color to factory............ http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/159174-factory-style-fog-light-switch-fits-knock-out.html

 

[rigtec]

Hi GrantK,

I probably should have given a little more detail in my last post regarding the new fog-light switch install. I was posting from a new android phone for the first time, but it will take some getting used to, "so I kept it real short". Here's a more detailed description of the install excerpt from my photo album; "See below"

"...I finally replaced my original aftermarket Fog light "Rocker switch" made by 'otrattw'. From day one I never should have installed it because it didn't fit in the factory "knock-outs" on the dash made for the accessories.

As a result I had to cut out the trim panel "switch bay flange" to make it fit. A few weeks ago I'd ordered a brand new switch from a company by the name of "Slee off-road" and last week I received the new switch in the mail. It's a "direct fitting", fog-light switch (upper RH corner) specifically for 5'th gen 4Runners; no cutting, no alterations necessary.

The thing I like about it is that it's a "push button" type switch, just like all the others on this panel. It has an 'led' indicator for when the fog-lights are on. It also has an etched "luminescent lamp icon" that glows at night with the others, when the headlights are on...

Day time: "Everything off"

Evening: "Dash w/illumination lighting only"

Night fall: "w/dimmer illumination & fog-lights on"

NOTE: "Remember... you'll find 12V on the green wire at the RSCA button (or which ever 'Instrument Illumination' power supply source you choose) whenever the Head/parking lights are on; the dimmer dial (rheostat) works from the ground circuit (gray wire) side. Also, Here is the "very best" essay/tutorial on this subject of "Factory style switches" that I've seen here... or anywhere else for that matter, by one of our very own forum community members, [MENTION=81322]barryhiram[/MENTION] called: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/159174-factory-style-fog-light-switch-fits-knock-out.html ("Excellent job Barry")! Cheers!

rigtec