Blown JBL Sub. Options?

Krayziekid

New member
So I think my JBL sub is finally on death's doorstep, after 12 good years. It has a god awful rattling and vibrating when the volume is anywhere past 20 or so. Really sounds tacky and crappy. So now I am thinking of upgrading, but there are some caveats.

So I want to upgrade my sub, but I don't need anything crazy. In a perfect world, I am looking for a sub that will fit the stock enclosure, use the stock wiring, and work with the stock amp, with little to no modification. I have searched high and low in threads but I can't really seem to find a consensus on this issue. I know running a new sub with no new wiring or amp will not run it at its full potential, but that's not my primary goal. I really want to get rid of the rattling and make my audio system sound normal again lol.

Any recommendations on subs (hopefully under $100 if possible) would be awesome! Thank you everyone!
 
Register to hide this ad
I did the JL sub, but that required modification. There is a plug and play option and I have seen it on here. Its in someones build thread, but I can't remember which one.
 
Last edited:
I added the JL without a new amp. It doesn't have the output it would with a better amp, but it is at least as good as the stock sub was. I would guess that if you just added the Fosgate sub and ran it off the stock amp it would be better than the stock sub too.

Next step for me will be the Rockford Fosgate R600X5 Prime 5-Channel Amplifier. It fits in the stock space and has a remote bass knob.
 
I added the JL without a new amp. It doesn't have the output it would with a better amp, but it is at least as good as the stock sub was. I would guess that if you just added the Fosgate sub and ran it off the stock amp it would be better than the stock sub too.

Next step for me will be the Rockford Fosgate R600X5 Prime 5-Channel Amplifier. It fits in the stock space and has a remote bass knob.

So a new sub can fit in there and just hook up to the original wiring? Or do I have to undo the stock connectors and get those four wires and attach them somehow.

Sorry about all the questions. I am a HUGE newbie when it comes to audio/car sound.
 
I just cut the stock connectors off and attached the wires to the sub. I don't remember what the JL had for connection points. I might have crimped some standard female connectors on the wires. Just the basic disconnects you get at the hardware store. Most likely the sub will have the male end for those or more like the home stereo kind that you just insert the wire into.
 
I just cut the stock connectors off and attached the wires to the sub. I don't remember what the JL had for connection points. I might have crimped some standard female connectors on the wires. Just the basic disconnects you get at the hardware store. Most likely the sub will have the male end for those or more like the home stereo kind that you just insert the wire into.

Ok cool. I will take a look around at JL and Fosgate and some other brands and see what other threads I can find about the issue. Thanks for your help!
 
Ok cool. I will take a look around at JL and Fosgate and some other brands and see what other threads I can find about the issue. Thanks for your help!

Look for shallow mount subs if you don't want to break the plastic grid off of the inside of the box. If you don't go for a shallow mount, be prepared to break the plastic out. No big deal, but make sure you find every piece you break off or it will rattle in the box. Also, if you aren't going to replace the amp, or run a new amp for the sub, I would suggest not spending over $50 on a new sub. No point wasting money on a JL or better if you are only pushing the stock amp.
 
I used the Rockford Fosgate P3SD2‑8. It went in without modifying the box. I'm still using the factory amp and it drives it just fine. I had to make some new holes to hold it in and cut the connectors to attach wires to the new sub. Super easy swap. I think I paid $90.
 
I used the Rockford Fosgate P3SD2‑8. It went in without modifying the box. I'm still using the factory amp and it drives it just fine. I had to make some new holes to hold it in and cut the connectors to attach wires to the new sub. Super easy swap. I think I paid $90.

Great info, thanks, just ordered one myself.
 
If you were happy with the sound before it went bad, you might want to find a shop to recone the speaker. It may be that the foam surround rotted. You can tell if that's the case by looking at it.
 
I added the JL without a new amp. It doesn't have the output it would with a better amp, but it is at least as good as the stock sub was. I would guess that if you just added the Fosgate sub and ran it off the stock amp it would be better than the stock sub too.

Next step for me will be the Rockford Fosgate R600X5 Prime 5-Channel Amplifier. It fits in the stock space and has a remote bass knob.

I recall seeing an install similar to what you're saying. Guy bypassed the speaker channels from stock sub to drive the JL with more power. Added a 5/7/8 or something (I don't remember how many there are) channel amp to drive the speakers. Seems feasible and cost effective for a sub replacement without losing power.

Just a thought.

I'd love to know what you go with Krazy, come spring I'd like to rip out stock HU, sub and amp and replace. Cost effectively, of course.
 
I just upgraded with a kicker shallow mount sub, no mod required. I also deleted the stock amp and added two new amps, one for the door speakers and one for the sub. I don't know if the kicker is compatible with the stock amp. The kicker subs come in two different ohm ratings, maybe one is compatible....

 
The new pioneer is one of the best available top rated shallow mount subs and would work fine with the stock amplifier and will drop in with no modifications...they can be had for around $65 shipped...depending on budget you'll be hard pressed to find a better budget option for a great sounding sub.
 
Did you install this sub and if so, let's hear some details man. :naughty: I'm about to take the plunge myself and wanted some feedback.


I did! I just swapped it out and it sounds great!

Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 8" Dual 2-Ohm Punch Series Shallow Mount Car Subwoofer: Car Electronics

I used this guide to get her all opened up.
The holes for the new sub are not exactly aligned. I just drove new ones throguh the plastic as needed. Seesm to be holding up so far.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/82995-how-access-remove-subwoofer.html
 
What a great sounding speaker!!

As stated already, this subwoofer is the SHIZNIT :thumb3: Not only is it shallower than the OEM subwoofer, it's also mondo heavy and SUPER easy to install.

The holes don't line up and I didn't bother with screwing through new holes. I simply used the factory screws to hold the sub in place by the outside perimeter. So far the sound is awesome. OEM speaker cone was COMPLETELY torn 360degrees!

***Note: I used the EWD to figure out the POS & NEG wires from the amp to the sub. However, the EWD does NOT show you how the wire colors at a connector located on the left of the amp. They're basically using a short extension to the sub and didn't maintain the same wire colors. So, pay attention to the color and polarity. ****


I took a pic with the LED headlamp, so the quality is poor but you get the idea.

So now I have Rockford Fosgate speakers all around (minus the dash center and the tweeters) being driven by the OEM HU. This will satiate me for a while until I find a Scion FRS HU.

EDIT: I'm sorry for the stupid large size pic, not sure how to reduce them. Sure mucks up the viewing of this thread though
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20151123_211610852.jpg
    IMG_20151123_211610852.jpg
    135.2 KB · Views: 2,076
Last edited:
This was what Crutchfield recommended for me to use with the stock amp and the easiest "plug & play" replacement... Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 and Metra 72-9300 Speaker Harness.... does this sound right?
 
I did! I just swapped it out and it sounds great!

Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 8" Dual 2-Ohm Punch Series Shallow Mount Car Subwoofer: Car Electronics

I used this guide to get her all opened up.
The holes for the new sub are not exactly aligned. I just drove new ones throguh the plastic as needed. Seesm to be holding up so far.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/82995-how-access-remove-subwoofer.html

Hey man, sorry to resurrect this thread, but I have a question for you. I just ordered the same subwoofer to finally replace my blown JBL. How is the wiring? I am keeping my stock amp and I know there are four wires coming from it. I have to snip the connectors and then wire it up. I noticed on this website that there are two ways to wire it under the "WiringWizard" tab. One talks about 1ohm and the other 4ohm. Any idea which is the proper way to wire it?

Edit: I know there are two positives and two negatives on the stock connector. Do I just do 1 positive and 1 negative on top and then same thing on the bottom? Do I put the positives together? Do I just copy the stock config? Thanks!
 
Last edited:

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,050
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top