Body Mount Rub Question

[wfo9]

There is a bunch you can do with the front fender liner. I Got mine several inches forward and up without much trouble.

How tall are your tires measuring on the ground? They vary by mfg greatly. My 285/70 Duratracs only measure out at 32" with 40psi and the full weight of the truck. I had BFGs before and they were a taller tire even though they were the same advertised size.

Now that you have the alignment worked out, it sounds like you still might need the body mount chop. Not really a big deal and pretty easy to do. I always try to guide people towards a 17x8 0 offset. It just makes things easier having the ideal backspacing.

 

[JSparky]

I have not figured out why some people have rub issues on the body mount while others mainly have issues on the front fender with similar setups. My guess it is related to the alignment and how caster was set, but it could be differences in tires/rims. Aftermarket UCAs should move the top mount position back to bias in more overall caster.

Take a couple of measurements for us and I can compare them to mine.

See Attachment for ABCD measurements to gather.

I got the following on my passenger side (drivers sits a bit lower)
A 32"
B 3.6"
C 2.6"
D 6.9"

I don't rub in any situation and have my body mounts intact. I did push my front fender liners way forward.

Whoops, took these measurements but forgot to post them. These are pre-fender mod.

A: 32 3/8"
B: 2 5/8"
C: 2 1/4"
D: 7 5/8"

The biggest reason for going with these rims was the weight, I really wanted to offset the added weight of the larger tires (no pun intended).

 

[JSparky]

^^ for above, pre-fender mod but after the second alignment.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Camber shouldn't change much through travel, with a double wishbone design the track width changes more than camber, unlike a strut.

This image is of equal length arms, which is different from ours, but demonstrates the principal.

You would think, but we have Short Arm/Long Arm Suspension for our Double Wishbone architecture which throws a wrinkle into the mix.

(I apologize for the picture as it is not that great)

The shorter upper arm will tend to pull the top of the wheel inwards on compression creating negative camber. This isn't too bad for us a as it "stuffs" the tire a bit nicer into the fender and depending on the obstacle maybe even give a hair more grip.

The question I have though is that a lot of people seem to run a bit of negative camber, I would assume you would want to run a hair positive to bring the wheel closer to Zero under compression. Is there any benefit to running negative camber on our lifted suspensions? I could see it on a more stock application where getting the top edge of that tire into the gap of the fender is more beneficial, but most of use barely scrub on the front under full compression with our lifts.
[MENTION=96425]JSparky[/MENTION]

Sorry if I am thread-jacking, just something I have been curious about. Also those alignment specs look nice! :thumb3:

 

[JSparky]

No problem.. I enjoy these kinds of discussions I say keep it going

 

[Bourbonator]

Oh yea, -10 offset. That would push your wheel lip out 10mm compared to what I have. 8" rim with 0 offset.

I'm hijacking.. sorry.
You have the Konig 6-shooter, which is 17x8, 4.5" backspacing with 0mm offset. Versus the Countersteer X with 4.1" backspacing and -10mm offset. Doesn't that essentially put the wheel in the same place? Because 4.1" + 10mm negative offset = 4.5"?

Maybe I'm not visualizing this the right way..

Anyway, the point to my post was that, if my way of thinking is right, your wheel lip would be exactly where his is.. But I may be wrong!

 

[wfo9]

I'm hijacking.. sorry.
You have the Konig 6-shooter, which is 17x8, 4.5" backspacing with 0mm offset. Versus the Countersteer X with 4.1" backspacing and -10mm offset. Doesn't that essentially put the wheel in the same place? Because 4.1" + 10mm negative offset = 4.5"?

Maybe I'm not visualizing this the right way..

Anyway, the point to my post was that, if my way of thinking is right, your wheel lip would be exactly where his is.. But I may be wrong!

Yep, you are wrong. Backspacing is just another way of measuring offset (or vice versa). Offset is the delta from center line of the wheel, where backspacing is the distance from inside lip to mounting flange. One constant point of confusion is that a wheels advertised width does not take into account the lip. So the centerline of a 8" wide rim is not 4", it's 4.5. Add an inch for the lips.