Bolts sheared off of LBJ

Have you tried heating it up before trying the easy out? The LCA is hardened steel, so I wouldn't want to drill and re-thread it. If it came to that, I would source a new LCA. Izzard just crushed his, maybe he'd take pity on you and send his if he parts it out (I don't think he is, but the vultures are circling anyway).
 
im pretty sure the lower control arm is mild steel. just like all the framing on the truck. drilling and threading can be a bear; however, I do have milling machinine access so drilling and tapping is like making a pB&j sandwich to me. I do use heat from time to time to help some easy out applications. it's just more times than not the bolts next to something that can't be heated up lol
 
It's actually the spindle that needs replaced, I have already pulled it; I am reluctant to drill and tap it. As a result I am just sourcing a used one
 
It's actually the spindle that needs replaced, I have already pulled it; I am reluctant to drill and tap it. As a result I am just sourcing a used one

I snapped 1 bolt when removing my LBJ. Drilling and re-tapping one of them was a pain. I definitely would replace the spindle like you did.
 
if you bing your old one sometime to uhwarrie with you I can probably have it machined for a back up incase it were to happen again :-). I've see a bunch of part outs in the classifieds happy hunting yo!
 
if you bing your old one sometime to uhwarrie with you I can probably have it machined for a back up incase it were to happen again :-). I've see a bunch of part outs in the classifieds happy hunting yo!

Thanks for the offer I will keep that in mind

I may have sourced locally, some spindles from a Tacoma with manual hubs and ABS. I will check them out tomorrow, but it could be a nice upgrade
 
We gotta get you up and running quick, Austin an I are meeting some NCTTORA friends/members for a run July 6-8th, be cool to have another to run the trails with us!

As for the spindle, if you want used... Wagners in Durham, or LKQ... New, let me know and I will find out what I can get it for with either my family discount or NCTTORA discount.
 
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We gotta get you up and running quick, Austin an I are meeting some NCTTORA friends/members for a run July 6-8th, be cool to have another to run the trails with us!

As for the spindle, if you want used... Wagners in Durham, or LKQ... New, let me know and I will find out what I can get it for with either my family discount or NCTTORA discount.

I will be good to go by then, no doubt!

I will let you know what I find today, that LKQ has only had 1 4runner in the hundred times I have been there
 
Wagners Auto Salvage
4115 South Alston Ave., Durham, NC 27713 Toll Free: 800.669.1673 || Phone: 919.544.1729 || Fax: 919.572.6426 Hours: Monday - Friday 8am - 5 pm || Saturday: 9am - 1 pm

Hope that helps...
 
im pretty sure the lower control arm is mild steel. just like all the framing on the truck. drilling and threading can be a bear; however, I do have milling machinine access so drilling and tapping is like making a pB&j sandwich to me. I do use heat from time to time to help some easy out applications. it's just more times than not the bolts next to something that can't be heated up lol

Oh duh, I was thinking something else...

And I was prong on 2 counts, because Dous is right, it;s the spindle that would need to be drilled...

Anyway, I think it's not a good idea to use a thread kit on a chassis components anyway, it's a high stress part (obviously), so you want full strength.
 
Oh duh, I was thinking something else...

And I was prong on 2 counts, because Dous is right, it;s the spindle that would need to be drilled...

Anyway, I think it's not a good idea to use a thread kit on a chassis components anyway, it's a high stress part (obviously), so you want full strength.

this would be my "thread kit": Crash Course in Milling: Chapter 9 - Drilling, Tapping, and Boring, by Glacern Machine Tools - YouTube

i think your refering to those threaded inserts which no would not be a good idea on chassis components. however remachining the orginal hole is a great solution, the hole and threads in the hole arn't damaged there just blocked by the broken bolt. You can use machining practices to easily reform that hole with the broken bolt in it.
 
Ive got a spare spindle laying around, cant remember if its driver or passenger. I do know it would cost a fortune to ship though
 
this would be my "thread kit": Crash Course in Milling: Chapter 9 - Drilling, Tapping, and Boring, by Glacern Machine Tools - YouTube

i think your refering to those threaded inserts which no would not be a good idea on chassis components. however remachining the orginal hole is a great solution, the hole and threads in the hole arn't damaged there just blocked by the broken bolt. You can use machining practices to easily reform that hole with the broken bolt in it.

You got one of those in your garage? Sure a shop could probably mill them out and clean out the threads, but without at very least a drill press, that is going to be pretty hard to do without damaging the threads.
 
OP, where do you wheel near Raleigh? I haven't found any decent spots yet

I go to Uwharrie.. a lot. Other than that there is nothing

Ive got a spare spindle laying around, cant remember if its driver or passenger. I do know it would cost a fortune to ship though

Thanks for the offer, but I was able to pick one up at Marsh's AutoParts for 80 bucks.

Should be up and running tomorrow.


One question though...

How easy should the wheel hub be to spin?
 
I go to Uwharrie.. a lot. Other than that there is nothing



Thanks for the offer, but I was able to pick one up at Marsh's AutoParts for 80 bucks.

Should be up and running tomorrow.


One question though...

How easy should the wheel hub be to spin?

Normally it won't without a wheel on it, 1/4 turn at best.
 

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