>BUILD THREAD< The4kbeast's 3rd-Gen 2000 T4R SR5 (Highlander Edition) 4x4 Build

[The4kbeast]

Desert Video:
Desert off roading video in the washes around Ocotillo Wells, CA, Pt 1
Desert off roading video in the washes around Ocotillo Wells, CA, Pt 2
Desert off road video of front suspension on the high speed washes around Ocotillo Wells, CA, Pt 3
Desert off roading video in the washes around Ocotillo Wells, CA, Pt 4

Mountain Video:
Mountain Ascent Off Road, Indian Truck Trail in SoCal


My goal is to acheieve a semi-factory look with a mild lift. I'm more concerned with quality of travel, as apposed to maximum lift numbers and record breaking articulation. I want a low maintenance vehicle that I can go exploring mountains and desert in.

IT NEEDS UPDATED, but here's my build list with Table of Contents:

BRAKES:
SS rear SS extended brake line
- [install]
New rear OEM shoes

ELECTRONICS:
TRS TheRetrofitSource.com Mini-D2S conversion, ballasts w/ extra wire, Phillips 4200k HIDs, white 100 mm angel eyes
- [install #1] [install #2]
JVC Double-din DVD deck with ebrake work-around and Taco whip mod
Pure white 5k interior LED lighting from SUPERBRIGHTLEDs
Knarly-bright interior LED roof lights, with rear cargo light as bright as the sun
- [install]
Chasing a CEL (Check Engine Light)

INTERIOR:
Floor mats... Yes, new floor mats from WeatherTech
Dynamat Install 1: Cargo area
Dynamat Install 2: Cargo area completed & wrap up

SUSPENSION, FRONT:
Color/Color OEM 00-02 4Runner front springs
- [Install]
Bilstein 5100 Tundra front struts on 5/5 (highest) setting ~1.5"
- [Install]
Light Racing Upper Control Arms (UCAs)
- [Install]
OEM LBJ+bolts
- [Install]
SS tapered diff drop
- [Install]
Bump stops TBD (need measurements)

SUSPENSION, BACK:
New OEM replacement 99 springs with custom upper coil spacer (1.90" lift)
- [Install] [My thoughts]
Bilstein 5100 for Chevy Silverado rear, 3/4" Rear Bilstein Bushings
- [The Plan] [Install] [My thoughts]
New bump stops
- ... Pending ...
Custom ebrake mount extension
- [Design] [Install]

TIRES ANS WHEELS:
Grey plasti-dipped LX450 wheels Stock
Hankook ATM LT265/75/R16

MOTOR/DRIVELINE:
Deck plate mod
Replacing leaky valve cover seals

IN STAGING:
Bump stops TBD (need measurements)
Yet to be purchased:
Daystar stinger bump stops F & R
-OR-
Daystar bumpstops with custom adapter plates - $75-160
-OR-
Light Racing front and rear jounce shocks

SS Adj rear panhard bar - $175 – OR- custom bar
Sliders
Roof rack
Trans cooler

HAVE TRIED LIST:
New OEM 05-06 Tundra Double Cab TRD front springs & OME 906 rear spring (2.5")
- [Install], [Why I switched]
OME 890 rear spring (3.5")
- [Install], [Why I switched]

- [Install], [Why I switched]


OTHER OPTIONS:
Manufacturer Recommended Maintenance

SUSPENSION DEVELOPMENT CORNER:
OEM FRONT Suspension Measurements
OEM REAR Suspension Measurements

Four Suspension Options
ARB Suspension Informatiom
Taco 5100/ToyTech Combo Thoughts & Susp Dreaming
Radflo and Fox Research Updates
MAJOR Bilstein Suspension Information for 3G T4R

 

[The4kbeast]

Details on my 4Runner purchase
So after 9 to 10 months of watching craigslist, auto trader, this site, yahoo autos, aol autos, etc, I felt that I had a good idea of what pricing was like. I had test drove and crawled under enough 4Runners to know what seals leaked, what spots rusted and showed off-road abuse the easiest. Some of the 4Runners I test drove were low mileage queens, while others were high-mileage sand rats.

After thoroughly reading the buyers guide, I knew I wanted a 99-00 SR5 Highlander or Limited with a rear locker in silver. That way the fender flares matched, and I wouldn't have to deal with two-tone paint. Later I realized that it wasn't that big of a deal, and that I would have been happy with a few other color combinations, but this was #1 on my list. I got lucky and crashed the previous owner's kids birthday party to be first to see the car, and after assessing everything it needed, here's what I bought for right around $6k:

What did I buy? What kind of shape was it in?
It had some paint blemishes and had been resprayed, but the repairs were made to the original panels and the damage was minimal.

It has 207k miles that were put on it by the original owner. He had service done at a few local Toyota dealers and had copies of all work done. A few years back, he switched over to a local mechanic (unfortunately) and that's when he stopped keeping his receipts. He gave me the guy's phone number to see if I could get copies, but I doubt he'll fill me in on what's been done lately.

So far, I've replaced the valve cover gaskets, shocks (200k mi on them!), and a new radio antenna. So far, I've changed the oil and removed the underbody engine/trans covers for detailing. I know this sounds anal, but what I love about buying from private parties is that they usually don't detail the underhood/powertrain. This allows you to check for leaks etc and see where new oil is coming in from. Looks like there was something that went on with the radiator (not milkshake, just like splashes), as well as a lot of spilled oil after oil changes. Speaking of oil changes, for gosh-sakes people, buy Toyota oil filters!! It is an anti-drainback valve and doesn't dump oil down the block when you're changing the filter. Not only did the previous owner totally overtighten their last oil filter, but they also made a mess on their block/drivetrain/skids.

It also included the monroney label, and here's all the information off of it:
Model Description: 4RUNNER SR5 4X4
Exterior color: MILLENNIUM SILVER (01C0)
Transmission type: AUTOMATIC
Interior color: GRAY (FB16)
Engine type: 5VZ 3.4L V6

ADDITIONAL VEHICLE DETAILS:
Plant of Manufacture: TMC, Japan
Body Style: SR5 4X4 with Highlander Edition Package

Base MSRP: $28,358.00
Sub-total before discount: $34,665.00
- EVP MSRP Discount -900.00
Original MSRP: $33,765.00

Standard Installed Equipment (on left side of monroney label)
MECHANICAL & PERFORMANCE

• 3.4L V6 DOHC EFI ENGINE
• 4-SPEED AUTOMATIC ECT TRANS
• 2-SPEED TRANSFER CASE/4WDEMAND
• COIL SPRING DOUBLE WISHBONE
• INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION
• 4-LINK COIL SPRING RR SUSPEN
• PWR-ASSIST RACK & PIN STEERNG
• POWER STEERING/TACHOMETER
• PWR-ASSIST VENTED FRT DISC
• BRAKES W/RR DRUMS
• FRONT & REAR STABILIZER BARS
• P225/75R15 RADIAL TIRES (5)

SAFETY

• DRIVER/PASSENGER AIR BAG (SRS)
• 4-WHEEL ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM
• DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS
• SIDE-DOOR IMPACT BEAMS
• CENTER HIGH-MOUNT STOP LAMP

COMFORT & CONVENIENCE

• FRONT CLOTH-FACED BUCKET SEATS
• SPLIT FOLDING FABRIC REAR SEAT
• DLX ETR/CST/CD W/ 4SPKRS
• PWR DOOR LOCKS & PWR RR WNDOW
• LIGHTING PACKAGE/TILT WHEEL
• DUAL FRONT & REAR CUPHOLDERS
• FR VARIBL INT & RR INT WIPERS
• ALL WEATHER GUARD EQUIP PKG
• TACH/TRIP/COOLANT TEMP GAUGES
• CENTER CONSOLE/DIGITAL CLOCK
• REMOTE HOOD/FUEL DOOR RELEASES
• DUAL SUNVISORS W/PASS VANITY
• MIRROR/FRONT MAPLIGHTS
• CRUISE CONTROL, O/H CONSOLE

EXTERIOR

• CHROME FR & RR BUMPERS/GRILLE
• DUAL COLOR-KEYED POWER HEATED
• OUTSIDE MIRRORS
• MULTI-REFLEC HALOGN HEADLAMPS
• SPRING BACK ANTENNA
• 15X7" STYLED STEEL WHEELS
• SKID PLATES/PRIVACY GLASS
• REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER

[FACTORY OPT CODE]Port/Factory Installed Equipment (on right side of monroney label):

• [CA] CALIFORNIA EMISSIONS {Factory}
• [RH] REAR HEATER {Factory} $170.00
• [SX] SPORT PACKAGE W/LOCKING DIFF: [AL] 16x7 ALLOY WHEELS, P265/70/R16 TIRES, FOGLAMPS, COLOR KEYED BUMPERS/GRILLE/OVERFENDERS, HOOD SCOOP, FRONT SPORT SEATS 2/4 WAY ADJ, HEADRESTS, 13" FRT DISC BRAKES, 4.300 LOCKING DIFF, LTHR COVERD STRG WHEEL {Factory} $1,965.00
• [SR] POWER TILT/SLIDE MOONROOF {Factory} $815
• [GI] UPGRADE VALUE PACKAGE #2: PWR WINDOWS, DR SUNVISOR W/ HOLDER, PASS SUNVISOR W/ ILLUM, K/E BACK WNDW REMOTE, CFC-FREE A/C, RR TONNEAU CVR, PREM ETR/CASS/CD W/6SPKRS & PWR DIVERS ANT, FLOOR MATS {Factory} $2,198.00
• [C7] CONVENIENCE PACKAGE INCLUDES: ROOF RACK,TOW HITCH, RR WIND DEFLECTOR & CARGO MAT {Port} $679.00
• [CF] CARPET FLOOR MATS {Port} $0.00 (unlisted)
• [GF] FULL TANK OF GAS {Dealer} Complimentary

 

[Jungoes]

welcome to the club,

 

[4-Ripcord]

Nice truck!

I may have missed it, but what are the plans for it? Just gonna keep it all stock or what?

 

[Hepar]

Great base! I will reserve my vote until after you've built it up a bit. :thumb3:

 

[The4kbeast]

PLANS:
It's the family hauler right now, so nothing too extreme. My definition of extreme is a long-travel race truck, so I guess that doesn't narrow things down at all to something I can plan for.

I'll cover suspension, armor, and stereo. I have a running list of maintenance items that I'll post later.
I'd like a comfortable, reliable rig to go explore and romp around in the desert and mountains with, as well as have enough travel to do general exploring. I have built my own race cars with custom fabbed suspensions, so I really am tempted to do a mid-travel suspension build that would allow me to rebuild shocks and play more with dampening and spring rates down the road. It'd be great to get into enhancing suspension geometry. That said, I don't have the budget or time for that right now, so I need to look for ways to build a lift that can be put together in stages so I can have fun now. I'd like to do something more than the basic 5100 front/rear. I don't plan on lower control arms. I am planning a suspension that will let me be a weekend warrior without knocking my teeth out, whilst allowing me to get the most dampening out of my and get the most from the little travel on the chassis. (read: NOT a mall-terrain vehicle or lift)

As for armor, it would be nice to eventually get a front bumper, sliders, and a 3/4 to full roof rack. Long term, I can say for certain that I'm not planning a full cage. So I need to account for that weight in a way that won't make the car ride like a go-cart right now, but won't make me blow through travel with the extra planned weight.

I don't want to do much with the engine... not even thinking intake or exhaust (although I've already done the deck-plate mod, and I would consider a throaty exhaust as long as it didn't drone at high speed on the highway). I looked at a supercharged 4Runner when I was truck shopping for a 4R and opted not to get into forced induction again. I've raced a turbo MR2 for the past few years in SCCA Solo 2 Autocross, and while the forced induction is great for cheap power, I had more fun in the years leading up to my MR2 when I was racing my little under-powered Mazda Miata and Toyota Starlet. Awesome suspension, ultimate traction, great brakes, and solid reliability. It's a great recipe that I hope to follow with the 4Runner.

Near term in the next few weeks I'm going to make it reliable, build a stereo for me and the mrs and pick out a suspension and install it. Also need to pick up a Ultra-gauge, Scan Gauge II, or a bluetooth obd II scanner to look into a CEL that showed up a week or so ago.

 

[The4kbeast]

Deck plate mod - done

I located the plate mount to the far left, but made sure to leave one strengthening rib on either side of the deck plate mount so I wouldn't weaken the plastic. Not necessary, but I didn't want to take any chances:

Installed:

 

[The4kbeast]

Installed a KW-AV70BT 2-DIN AV RECEIVER from Amazon for about $370, also picked up the audio/video cable for Apple products. Used AMEX reward points, so it was free to me (sort of). Installed, but will need to do the whip mod (damn antenna motor).

For speakers, I picked up a complete second generation Scion tC speaker set from some one replacing their stock system for next to nothing (~$10). It included 6.5" and 5.25" woofers, as well as 1" tweeters. Scion sourced all the speakers from the Lexus LX -- perfect for a bare bones budget build. Guys on the Scion sites say you can put external amps (50 rms +, according to one guy) on these things before they start to fade. Also included some 6x9s, but they won't fit the third gen without moving some serious metal. Anyway... what a steal!

Also got some Dynamat on order for the doors and rear cargo area. Bought it in bulk so it would be cheaper... I actually bought two trunk mat kits because per sq ft it was cheaper. Probably only needed one kit, as I'm only planning on doing the doors and the rear cargo area. I think this stuff is thicker, and thus, heavier. Oh well, more on that when I actually unbox it and get to work.

 

[The4kbeast]

Regular Manufacturer Recommended Maintenance Items

Thought I'd store this here for my records... even though I found this elsewhere in the forum...

Regular Manufacturer Recommended Maintenance Items:

Reference: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/69744-tutorial-documentation-reference.html
-RADIATOR- Replace every 100k miles
-TIMING BELT / WATER PUMP- Every 90k miles. This service costs $600-$700 at most dealers. Make sure the seller is up to date on this one!
-TRANSMISSION FLUID- About every 40k miles. At the dealer: $80 transmission service.
-DIFFERENTIAL FLUIDS & ENGINE COOLANT- About every 30k miles. At the dealer: $130 4x4 differentials service.
-LOWER BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT- About every 150k miles. Sooner on lifted vehicles.
-SPARK PLUGS & WIRES- Every 30-40k miles. Less than $50 for everything, easy DIY.
-ENGINE OIL- 3k miles for regular oil, 6k miles for synthetic.
-Everything else like lights and brakes are based on usage and not necessarily miles.

If anyone has additional items, let me know and I'll add them here for reference.

 

[The4kbeast]

Ah... recharged the refrigerant today. Exciting times... Took a can and a half.

Man, need to replace the struts/shocks. When I asked the prev owner if he ever had them replaced, he paused and said that none of the shops ever recommended that he replace them. The fronts feel like I have an inch of suspension (that's total) and the rear shocks are totally blown and non-existent. My wife, when she was a week out from her due date with my son (two and a half weeks ago?) wanted to take the 4Runner when we went anywhere because she thought it would be the thing to break her water - because it road so rough. LOL

 

[The4kbeast]

Suspension thoughts

Ah... recharged the ac refrigerant today. Exciting times... Took a can and a half. Hoping I don't have a leak...

Man, need to replace the struts/shocks. When I asked the prev owner if he ever had them replaced, he paused and said that none of the shops ever recommended that he replace them. The fronts feel like I have an inch of suspension (that's total) and the rear shocks are totally blown and non-existent.

Funny story-
My wife, when she was a week out from her due date with my son (two and a half weeks ago?) wanted to take the 4Runner when we went anywhere because she thought it would be the thing to break her water - because it rode so rough. LOL, well it wasn't a ride in the 4R that broke her water directly... I was changing the oil and asked her to run and get another oil filter socket for me (it was tightened WAY too tight by the PO), and while she was at the parts store she went into labor. LOL.

So about replacement suspension... here are some of my thoughts about a modest, usable ~2" lift". Again, my utmost concern is balancing quality of travel and total system cost, not about maximum overall ground clearance.

Option #1: ~$550-600
> Front: Taco/4R Bilstein 5100 with stock springs (second mount)
> Rear: Bilstein 5125 with OME 906

+ Plus: Inexpensive, quality setup that will last.
- Minus: Not a fan of the rear shock upper mount... and although there is a 5100 sold by Sanoran Steel is available with a proper upper mount, it is only available in a full $700 kit. Kind of sucks. Worried the dampening will be too soft based off user reviews (need to confirm dampening levels), no travel increase if adding UCAs later.

Option #2: ~$750-800
> Front: Tundra Bilstein 5100 with either TRD Tundra front springs or a custom mix of coilover perch and spring with 4Runner upper mount
> Rear: 906 springs with Land Crusher or FJ rear shocks... need to research which ones people are running (Bilstein 5100)

+ Plus: Higher dampening level, slightly additional up travel, can pick front spring rate, and adjustable ride height. Will make running a 2" lift tolerable because of extra up travel. May need to look into bump stop changes to the front to use extra travel without damage
- Minus: Will take some time and math (not a big deal), and will be cheaper than the ToyTech lift. 906 springs in rear don't have a long enough static length to take advantage of longer than stock rear shocks, and I don't want to go with a higher lift or spacers (ick)

Option #3: ~$1.4-2k FOR SOME REASON THIS KIT IS NOT LISTED ON SS's SITE ANYMORE....
- Front: High Speed Desert with Radflo from SS, either Radflo 2.0 Coil-Overs or , 2.0 Radflo and External Reservoir, 2.5 Radflo,
- Rear: Toyota LC80 Coils (no info on coil count) & Radflo 2.0 Aluminum Body Shock Absorbers (optional reservoir mount - no information on SS's site about cost)

+ Plus: Will allow me to dabble in shock valve tuning, etc, and would allow me to get UCAs at a later date
- Minus: Not much information on quality of Radflo (that I've heard), as it is not a trusted name like Bilstein, Icon, TC, or King. Also not happy that I'm locked into LC rear coils. Sure they ride like OEM, but they achieve a much higher lift than I'm after.

Option #4: ~$2.2k, 3.1k, 4.1k
- Front: Icon 2.5" Coilovers (+UCA: ~$900 -- allows extended travel kit +$0)
- Rear: Icon 2.5" ext res with OME 906 (+dampened Jounce stops: ~$1k)

+ Plus: Will allow me to dabble in shock valve tuning, etc, but requires UCAs and only adds an extra inch of down travel. (-$1k if not getting extended susp kit, doesn't require custom UCAs).
- Minus: Oh my goodness, is it expensive

 

[xvdragonx]

looking good so far!

 

[JWaldz]

You're one hell of a blogger! I'll keep my eyes pealed on this one.. Sounds like they'll be great attention to detail along the way. Welcome to T4R and good luck with your build.

 

[1985taylor1925]

Hello and welcome. A few things . . .

I (along with many many other here) have the TRD Tundra set up in the front, and would highly recommend it. Im runnning OME 890s in the back, with OEM Tokicos from a 91-98 Landcruiser, and I really like it. I know the 906 are a little shorter and stiffer than the 890s. But for the price, I think your suspension option 1 is excellent. Though if I had the money I would get ICON coilovers in a heartbeat.

What is this "jounce member" youre referring to? Ive never heard that term before

 

[T4R2014]

Good start. I'll keep an eye on this build. Btw, all I ever use are OEM oil filters (90915-YZZD1) but I still get oil all over the block when doing oil changes.

 

[The4kbeast]

Good start. I'll keep an eye on this build. Btw, all I ever use are OEM oil filters (90915-YZZD1) but I still get oil all over the block when doing oil changes.

Nice... evidently the anti-drainback valve is only good for building oil pressure at engine starts.

Hello and welcome. A few things . . .

I (along with many many other here) have the TRD Tundra set up in the front, and would highly recommend it. Im runnning OME 890s in the back, with OEM Tokicos from a 91-98 Landcruiser, and I really like it. I know the 906 are a little shorter and stiffer than the 890s. But for the price, I think your suspension option 1 is excellent. Though if I had the money I would get ICON coilovers in a heartbeat.

What is this "jounce member" youre referring to? Ive never heard that term before

Good to hear that you're a fan of the Tundra setup. Despite the increased dampening, does it still have small bump compliance? Is the compression dampening too firm? Is it too firm on paved roads? Based off of how things ride now, I'm thinking that the front needs a softer setup or it will shake my teeth out offroad.

As for the rear, I'm concerned that a 906 would be too short for some of the longer rear shocks. I helped a buddy put a lift on his '97 4Runner w/ 906's with longer rear shocks and the spring would unseat in extreme articulation situations. I did a search to see if others had a good explanation of the differences between OME static lengths... here's an explanation from Valkyrie over on TTORA.

//SNIP// from Valkyrie at TTORA
Here's the scoop:
The 906 is actually a 'medium' spring specifically designed for the 4Runner. It results in about 2" of lift.
The 890 is a medium spring actually originally designed for the Prado (i.e. it is medium for the Prado, which is much heavier than a 4Runner). Figure 1.5" of lift on the Prado will be about 2.75" to 3" of lift on a 4Runner with a 330lb constant weight capacity.
The 891 is a heavy spring designed also for the Prado. It has a larger diameter coil, but is shorter in overall free height. However, with a rating fo 660lbs consant load, i would expect over 3" of lift on a 4Runner. I also think that it would be very firm.
//SNIP//

Sounds like the 890s would be the best candidates, but I'm shocked at how little information is available on spring and shock specs. Maybe I could call ToyTech and see if I could get some dimensions...

A jounce stop is another name for a bump stop. I work with engineers and they get uppity when I say bump stop... same thing when you say sway bar instead of anti-sway bar. The explanation they gave, to put it in perspective, is when you drive over a bump and the suspension is momentarily compressed, that's called jounce. When it springs back, that's called rebound. Hope that makes sense.

 

[The4kbeast]

The sexiest mod yet... floor mats?

OK, ok... it isn't so sexy. But after having an FJ, you tend to miss flooring that doesn't stain and is easy to clean up.

When I lived in the northeast, I had an xB for awhile with WeatherTech mats. They did a good job of keeping dirt, rain, and snow from soaking into the carpet - and they fit pretty well. Seeing as my driver's side floor mat was pretty ragged, I decided to order a set for the new Runner.

Here are the part numbers:
WeatherTech Floorliner Mat Kit, Black
Part #/$: 44123-1-2, $169.90
- Front Floorliners Black
- Rear Floorliner Black
- 1pc Mat Grip Kit

WeatherTech Floorliner Mat Kit, Black
Part #/$: 40175, $109.95 (2000-2002)
- 4Runner trunk mat Black

Roll that beautiful bean footage... Driver's side: Good floor coverage, good fit around perimeter. The rear lip looks odd, but if I end up putting an amp under one of the front seats I guess it will keep water from my electronics. Ran some errands tonight and didn't have problems with pedal entrapment:

Better shot of the driver's side mat & relation to the dead pedal:

Passenger side: Same good fitament... couldn't decide if I liked the mat flap under the plastic part of the dash, or overlapping it. I settled on having it underneath because it allows the mat to follow the driveshaft tunnel.

Second row mat: I really like that it is a single piece instead of three different pieces, which I've seen in some people's back seats.

Second row installed:

Just a note for any of you with a manual T4R. My xB was a manual, and I was NOT happy with the fit on the driver's side. Occasionally the clutch and gas pedal would get stuck behind the mat and peel it up. If WeatherTech had made it just a little taller, it wouldn't have been an issue. But alas, it was still an issue. I don't know if it will be an issue for you on a 4Runner, but it is something to be aware of for those of you with a 5MT T4R.

 

[BrianSD_42]

Hello and welcome!

That is a really clean truck for the mileage and I will be following closely.

I would like to suggest you keep about $1500 set aside for a "4Runner rainy day" fund. I say this since you have over 200k miles on it.

I am currently at 213k miles and trust me you will need a rainy day fund that is completely separate from the "build-stuff" $$$, this fund is for emergencies like head-gasket / cracked-head or transmission issues.

I've had my truck for 10 years now and the last 50k have been the most expensive. Still a great truck and runs like a charm after fixing it up through the lows. ...

 

[The4kbeast]

I would like to suggest you keep about $1500 set aside for a "4Runner rainy day" fund. I say this since you have over 200k miles on it.

I am currently at 213k miles and trust me you will need a rainy day fund that is completely separate from the "build-stuff" $$$, this fund is for emergencies like head-gasket / cracked-head or transmission issues.

I've had my truck for 10 years now and the last 50k have been the most expensive. Still a great truck and runs like a charm after fixing it up through the lows. ...

Thanks for the welcome and the heads up, Brian.

I've put together a pile of parts to service the fuel and ignition systems, as well as to fix the leaking valve cover seals... and on top of that I've got a check engine light that reared its ugly head on the way back from buying the dang thing (reminds me, I've got to pick up a Bluetooth OBD-II scanner and pick up that Torque app to pull codes). I have slow leak on the rear main seal which will also have to be looked at someday. I've also got to get the tranny, cooling, and diffs flushed/etc just so it's done.

 

[1srgagen]

I know him personally and to say he has attention to detail is a gross understatement.