>BUILD THREAD< The4kbeast's 3rd-Gen 2000 T4R SR5 (Highlander Edition) 4x4 Build
- Thread starter The4kbeast
- Start date
The4kbeast
New member
Thanks for the information on Radflo. Steve at Sanoran Steel had good things to say as well (he is a great contact for anyone wanting to get up to speed quickly on smart ways to properly do a lift, btw).
I'll have to look into Radflo's setup again and ruin the numbers. If I had to guess, it would be about $1800 once Steve gets the pricing updated on the site.
Been on the phone with Fox and Bilstein doing a bunch of research on rear shock fitment options. It's no secret that 4Runners benefit from shared geometry with the Taco up front, but the rear has been a pain. Dimensionally, the shocks are hard to find (especially with proper mounts).
- Fox had nothing for the rear that would work, and no suggestions
- Bilstein can custom valve a 5100... and at $400 front and rear, plus another $75/ea for a revalve, it seems like a good starting point.
The4kbeast
New member
Hey rjaudi, thanks for the response. I believe you were speaking to this email I sent out:
<SNIP>
- Is the intent behind the installation of the Daystar Competition Style bump stops to allow for modification or removal of the factory inter-spring cone-style rear bump stops, or are they mean to work in conjuction with them? How would you describe the engagement "feel" of these bump stops compared to OEM?
<SNIP>
The rear, even without a lift, does need attention of some sort. After talking to Steve @ SS, it sounds like the cushion bumpers in the spring often tear off. I might just figure out my dimensions and move an aftermarket bump stop to the frame. I could then saw off the last notch or two of the spring bump stop to use out as a spring retainer.
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
My back end felt a little bit like that when I was running the LC coils with my LC shocks. I concluded that it was because the coils were so tall (I dont have any added weight in the back and they lifted me close to 5") that they extended the shocks toward the top of their range. I noticed before installing the lc shocks that their rebound is progressively stiffer as they compress further, which of course would make sense to control the coils springback since they become progressively stiffer as they compress. So the shocks are really soft toward the top. I had too much spring and not enough shock, creating a somewhat bouncy ride.
When I put on the 890s they dropped me at least 1.5" in the back, and lowering the shocks that 1.5" has made a big difference in handling. The back end is now well planted. The handling between front and back feel very similar and well balanced. I think the LC shocks are a good match for the 890s. I dont know anything about the 5100s. The LC shocks are really long - like 4" or 5" longer than my stock shocks were. If the 5100s arent long enough or he doesnt have any weight in the back, he may be getting the same effect I was, with the shocks being extended to their "soft" spot and the spring rate being a little too strong.
The4kbeast
New member
Needed to buy a scan tool to pull codes and diagnose a CEL. Got my ELM327 bluetooth obd2 scanner in the mail on Wednesday and downloaded Torque for Android. Would have loved to have gotten something for my iPad, but evidently Apple has a bug up its butt about allowing bluetooth activity they didn't approve.
Here's how it looks installed; note that the four indicator lights face the fire wall. Keep in mind, they don't tell you what thee lights are, lol.
Works awesome. Paired it in to the OBDII port and keyed on. Paired the device to my phone via bluetooth (it just pairs - you can only link to it once the program is open). Opened Torque (I used the free version). Opened Setting menu, selected the "OBD2." Pulled codes, got a P0171 Lean Bank 1. It's a common issue. There's an awesome article I'll post a link to that changed my life. Ok, maybe not, but it was a very good read.
Cleaned the MAF's hot wire sensor... Ran the program and cleared the codes. All better! Total cost was about $25 + $5 MAF electronics cleaner. If you're looking at one of these as an alternative to Scan Gauge II or Ultra Gauge, it really doesn't compare. I ended up getting a fake ELM 327, as ELM's site says that v1.5 doesn't exist... if you're in the market, the latest and greatest is v1.4b... v1.4a doesn't exist, either. If you are in the market for one of these, make sure v1.4b is in the version number; even their older v1.3 doesn't cut the mus****. v1.4b adds features, but the one that I was interested in was the ability to leave it plugged into the port and it will power itself down when you turn off the car. I did read a lot of reviews where older versions killed batteries after four days of being plugged in. Be forwarned!
Sure, you can get a lot of basic information and you can tie it to GPS data. I was hoping it would show trans temp, but it doesn't show up as receiving data on the free version. But hey, even if you want the Torque Pro app to get more features, it's ONLY $5. I figure I'll pick it up once I get used to the data I get and see what else gets added. Crossing my fingers for trans temp!
Tightened up the throttle, trans, and cruise control linkage while I was under the hood.
Here's how it looks installed; note that the four indicator lights face the fire wall. Keep in mind, they don't tell you what thee lights are, lol.
Works awesome. Paired it in to the OBDII port and keyed on. Paired the device to my phone via bluetooth (it just pairs - you can only link to it once the program is open). Opened Torque (I used the free version). Opened Setting menu, selected the "OBD2." Pulled codes, got a P0171 Lean Bank 1. It's a common issue. There's an awesome article I'll post a link to that changed my life. Ok, maybe not, but it was a very good read.
Cleaned the MAF's hot wire sensor... Ran the program and cleared the codes. All better! Total cost was about $25 + $5 MAF electronics cleaner. If you're looking at one of these as an alternative to Scan Gauge II or Ultra Gauge, it really doesn't compare. I ended up getting a fake ELM 327, as ELM's site says that v1.5 doesn't exist... if you're in the market, the latest and greatest is v1.4b... v1.4a doesn't exist, either. If you are in the market for one of these, make sure v1.4b is in the version number; even their older v1.3 doesn't cut the mus****. v1.4b adds features, but the one that I was interested in was the ability to leave it plugged into the port and it will power itself down when you turn off the car. I did read a lot of reviews where older versions killed batteries after four days of being plugged in. Be forwarned!
Sure, you can get a lot of basic information and you can tie it to GPS data. I was hoping it would show trans temp, but it doesn't show up as receiving data on the free version. But hey, even if you want the Torque Pro app to get more features, it's ONLY $5. I figure I'll pick it up once I get used to the data I get and see what else gets added. Crossing my fingers for trans temp!
Tightened up the throttle, trans, and cruise control linkage while I was under the hood.
Last edited:
The4kbeast
New member
Yup, picked it up from Amazon for ~$23 bucks with free shipping. It wasn't the cheapest one, but with the failure rate of some of these at 50% I decided to pay a few bucks more for one with 200+ positive reviews. It ended up being a Chinese knock-off of the ELM 327 (is labeled the non-existent v1.5), but it works without fail so far.
I towed my '83 Starlet back from where I've had it in storage and did a great job of tracking my coolant temp, etc on the way. Wish it would have had trans temp, but I'm only into it the price of the unit, so I'm definitely NOT disappointed.
Hope it helps
The4kbeast
New member
Project Update
Ordering suspension lift pieces... planning some suspension maintenance.
Found some choice OEM wheels... picking up later this week.
Contacting contacts about new tires... hoping I can save a few bucks on some 285s.
Have a collection of parts for some engine work... man, I'm putting this one off.
Going to have some 4th Gen 4R wheels to sell... also need to sell some IS300 wheels, lawn mower... need to make room in the garage.
Ordering suspension lift pieces... planning some suspension maintenance.
Found some choice OEM wheels... picking up later this week.
Contacting contacts about new tires... hoping I can save a few bucks on some 285s.
Have a collection of parts for some engine work... man, I'm putting this one off.
Going to have some 4th Gen 4R wheels to sell... also need to sell some IS300 wheels, lawn mower... need to make room in the garage.
The4kbeast
New member
Without further a due, here is what I've ordered for suspension:
FRONT: $680
OEM Tundra Double Cab TRD Springs
Bilstein 5100 Tundra front struts on 1/5 (lowest) setting ~1.75”
OEM LBJ+bolts
SS tapered diff drop
BACK: $315
OME 906 rear spring (2”)
Bilstein 5100 for Chevy Silverado
"Adjust" rear inner-coil bump stops
¾” Rear Bushings
SS rear SS extended brake line
Yet to be purchased:
Daystar stinger bump stops F & R
-OR-
Daystar bumpstops with custom adapter plates - $75-160
SS Adj rear panhard bar - $175 –OR- custom bar
Zombie Runner
New member
Subed
The4kbeast
New member
Explanation/back information on research done on suspension
NOTICE TO THOSE ON TAPATALK - THIS POST GETS CUT OFF BECAUSE I WAS ON A RANT DOCUMENTING SPECS. TO VIEW THE FULL VERSION SIGN ONTO THE FORUM IN YOUR BROWSER, YOU LAZY BUM!!
Explanation/back information on research done on suspension:
I wanted something that rode nice on the street since that is the vehicle's primary use, but would make the most of the suspension travel the vehicle has when off the pavement. I autocross and have built many street coilovers in the past, so I've had a lot of fun researching unique ways of addressing suspension setups. I considered a coil front/external rear, but didn't want to get into UCAs and shocks that would need more frequent maintenance than OEM units (debatable). I met one of the TRD engineers that designed and tuned the T/X TRD Baja Series Tacoma, and they had really positive things to say about Bilstein's product. Good seals, quality dampening.
Having road tested a ToyTech Lifted 4R, I felt I had a good baseline and knew what I was looking for... a little more compression dampening and if possible a little more travel up front. Stock, the 4Runner's front can ride stiff over harsh bumps, and I thought the Taco Billys addressed that. But I believe the progressive spring rate of a Tundra TRD front spring will match Bilstein's digressive dampening nicely. There's nothing wrong with the amount of dampening that the Tacoma fronts offer, but I've always preferred to run slightly higher dampening levels.
So I spent some time with one of the western area sales representatives for Bilstein, who was a huge help in figuring out compressed/extended strut dimensions and valving rates to figure out what would work best.
Bilstein Rep: "Problem with 4Runner's stock suspension is the factory mount is post and eyelet in the rear, not eyelet/eyelet
5100: $75-200 ea, In post/eyelet, Bilstein has 3 valve setting options in 3 different lengths – Lower bushing 5/8”, so will need replaced by a 3/4" bushing in order to fit on the rear of the 4Runner.
IN ORDER TO UNDERSTAND VALVING RATINGS, READ THESE EXAMPLES: -> FIRST # rebound | SECOND # compression. Higher #=firmer dampening, lower #=softer
> 360/80: Used on heavier trucks, industrial applications, etc
> 255/70: Highway hauling shock, or in front of truck b/c that's where the weight is. <<<<<<<<
> 170/60: Usually used in the rear.
- If not happy with valving, Bilstein can re-valve the shocks for $75 ea; it will take 6 weeks
Bilstein doesn't have anything off the shelf that is made for the 4Runner, but looking at the universal offerings, these are the three lengths he mentioned, with rebound and compression valve settings:
> 11.77 - 18.42 366/240
> 12.83 - 20.45 224/100 (rebound/compression) <<<<<<<< $75/ea for revalve service
> 13.27 - 21.5 298/94
7100: $150-200 ea --> No stem to eye mount offered, only 5/8" rubber bushing… I am trying to avoid adaptors at all costs, so I elected not to even look into options (DON’T BUY)
> Rebuildable: Valve adjustable by owner,
> Schrader valve to adjust nitrogen pressure (pressure range 180 lbs - 220 lbs)
- Gas inside shock adjustable (Think of basketball: more air pressure will rebound quicker when bounced…now apply to shock)
9100 bypass: Bypass race syle type shocks Heat sync - $600-800 ea
> 3/4" eye mount uniball eye allows for rotation, so will work for 4Runner rear.
> Adjustments made w/ knob, 6 zones of adj - 4 ext controls: 2 rebound, 2 compression adjusters
> Range: min 16"-24"… not going to happen on rear of 4Runner!
______________________________________________________________
FRONT 5100 STRUT OPTIONS CONSIDERED:
Bilstein P/N: F4-BE5-D558-T0 fits:
96-04 Tacoma
This is a hard strut to find information on. Nothing was listed on the Bilstein site, so I had to dig through the forums to find anything on it. Regardless, the Tacos valving and length numbers on the 5100 series shocks are as follows:
Tacoma valving, lengths Reb 228 Comp 73 Ext 473 Comp 352 (4.76" travel, baseline for others)
__________
Bilstein 24-188265 Monotube Shock Absorber Fits:
2001 - 2007 TOYOTA SEQUOIA Limited
2001 - 2007 TOYOTA SEQUOIA SR5
2000 - 2006 TOYOTA TUNDRA Base
2000 - 2006 TOYOTA TUNDRA Limited
2000 - 2006 TOYOTA TUNDRA SR5
Bilstein Part Number: 24-188265
46mm Monotube Shock Absorber
Internal Design: Monotube
Collapsed Length: 13.23 in / 336 mm
Extended Length: 18.68 in / 474.5 mm
Tundra valving, lengths Reb 303 Comp 96 Ext 474 Comp 335 (5.47" travel, dramatically increased rebound, mildly increased compression valving, and ~17mm of up travel (~.67"=10.7/16) that I might be able to capitalize on with revised front bump stops)
Boot Included: No
Mounting Kit: B4-KT1-Z219A00
Spring Seat: E4-FT1-Z011A01
Reservoir: No
Finish: Zinc Plated
Supercedes: F4-BE5-6929-H1
__________
So I put together a Tundra TRD from coil setup with a Bilstein 5100 front, and made sure the LBJs were in good shape.
______________________________________________________________
For the rear setup, I wanted a little more dampening on both sides of the spectrum, as well adjusting the range of suspension to ensure I wasn't sacrificing all of my down travel for the mild lift. I didn't want to do the ToyTec rear lift, as I'm just not a fan of the upper adaptor mount that converts the shock eye to the stud. There were actually a lot of options, allowing me to pick where I wanted my travel down to the 1/2". From there, I looked up the rebound compression settings that the ToyTech kit uses so I could figure out what I wanted to change. The dampening is 255 rebound/70 compression. According to Bilstein that is valving usually used in the front of a mid-sized truck. Here are the options I looked at, keeping in mind that I wanted additional dampening control (contrary to popular belief, Bilstein can rebuild and revalve 5100 for $75 ea... it takes 6 weeks to process and ship back - but they are not customer rebuildable).
__________
REAR SHOCK OPTIONS:
ToyTec Rear shock - from factory is eyelet to eyelet, so needs adapter which is included.
Bilstein P/N: 0711123 33-185590 H5
Compressed 13.58-13.66" Extended 21.54-21.63" (~7.97" shock)
Valving: 255 rebound valving 70 compression valving
Not an option IMO, b/c of the mounts.
__________
Bilstein 24-185684 Monotube Shock Absorber Fits:
1983 - 1986 FORD RANGER Base; 2 Doors; Standard Cab Pickup
1983 - 1986 FORD RANGER XL; 2 Doors; Standard Cab Pickup
1983 - 1985 FORD RANGER XLS; 2 Doors; Standard Cab Pickup
1983 - 1987 FORD RANGER XLT; 2 Doors; Standard Cab Pickup
1984 - 1987 FORD RANGER S; 2 Doors; Standard Cab Pickup
1986 - 1986 FORD RANGER Base; 2 Doors; Extended Cab Pickup
1986 - 1987 FORD RANGER STX; 2 Doors; Extended Cab Pickup
1986 - 1987 FORD RANGER STX; 2 Doors; Standard Cab Pickup
1986 - 1986 FORD RANGER XL; 2 Doors; Extended Cab Pickup
1986 - 1987 FORD RANGER XLT; 2 Doors; Extended Cab Pickup
1987 - 1987 FORD RANGER Custom; 2 Doors; Extended Cab Pickup
1987 - 1987 FORD RANGER Custom; 2 Doors; Standard Cab Pickup
1988 - 1992 FORD RANGER Custom
1988 - 1992 FORD RANGER S
1988 - 1997 FORD RANGER STX
1988 - 1997 FORD RANGER XLT
1989 - 1989 FORD RANGER GT
1990 - 1990 FORD RANGER S Plus
1991 - 1997 FORD RANGER Sport
1993 - 1997 FORD RANGER Splash
1993 - 1997 FORD RANGER XL
1995 - 1995 FORD RANGER XL Sport
Bilstein 24-185684
46mm Monotube Shock Absorber
Internal Design: Monotube
Collapsed Length: 12.87 in / 327 mm
Extended Length: 20.49 in / 520.5 mm
Rebound 224 Compression 100
Boot Included: Black Bellows
Mounting Kit: B4-KT1-Z103A02
Spring Seat: No
Reservoir: No
Finish: Zinc Plated
Supercedes: F4-BE5-6526-H7
__________
24-151627 Monotube Shock Absorber Fits:
999 - 2006 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500 Base, LS, LT
2002 - 2002 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500 Custom
2002 - 2006 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500 WT
2004 - 2006 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500 Hybrid
2004 - 2004 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500 Z71
Bilstein 24-151627
46mm Monotube Shock Absorber
Internal Design: Monotube
Collapsed Length: 13.27 in / 337 mm
Extended Length: 21.5 in / 546.2 mm
Rebound 298 Compression 94
Boot Included: Black Bellows
Mounting Kit: No
Spring Seat: No
Reservoir: No
Finish: Zinc Plated
Supercedes: F4-BE5-F162-H0
__________
Bilstein 24-100144 Monotube Shock Absorber Fits:
2000 - 2006 TOYOTA TUNDRA Base
2000 - 2006 TOYOTA TUNDRA Limited
2000 - 2006 TOYOTA TUNDRA SR5
Bilstein 24-100144
46mm Monotube Shock Absorber
Internal Design: Monotube
Collapsed Length: 13.84 in / 351.5 mm
Extended Length: 22.4 in / 569 mm
Rebound ____ Compression ______ (STILL WAITING TO HEAR BACK FROM BILSTEIN)
Boot Included: Black Bellows
Mounting Kit: B4-KT1-Z008A00
Spring Seat: No
Reservoir: No
Finish: Zinc Plated
Supercedes: F4-BE5-A014-H7
__________
So there are three options. I have a great picture below with madman-style notes that shows how the range of suspension is changed with the 2" lift I had planned. On the left is the OEM 4600 replacement Bilstein, followed left to right: Ranger, Silverado, then Tundra shocks.
I'm a visual person, so this is what worked for me. This is top to bottom.
- Compressed dimension
- Up travel measurement (circled)
- Static shock length with 50 lbs in back
- Down travel (circled)
- Extended length
- Valving, rebound/compression (255/70 is not tied to the shock above it, it is valving information for the ToyTech rears)
Basically (right... ), I chose the Silverado rear shocks (third over from left) because of the strong rebound and compression dampening, as well as the balance of up and down travel. Also, remember that with more gear in the back, I will eat up what little up travel I have. If you are considering a 3"+ inch lift, I'd highly recommend the Tundra rears. I haven't heard back from Bilstein on the valving information, but it looks like the up/down travel would be nicely balanced. You will NEED to take time and measure to see if you'll need to run aftermarket bump stop to ensure you don't bottom the shock out (the shock is nearly 1.5" shorter than an OEM replacement).
The rest of this stuff will need to be figured out once I get everything installed. I'll need to make sure I space the rear stops enough so I don't bottom my shocks out. The rear panhard bar is a MUST in my book, but I'll have to wait until more funds come in.
NOTICE TO THOSE ON TAPATALK - THIS POST GETS CUT OFF BECAUSE I WAS ON A RANT DOCUMENTING SPECS. TO VIEW THE FULL VERSION SIGN ONTO THE FORUM IN YOUR BROWSER, YOU LAZY BUM!!
Explanation/back information on research done on suspension:
I wanted something that rode nice on the street since that is the vehicle's primary use, but would make the most of the suspension travel the vehicle has when off the pavement. I autocross and have built many street coilovers in the past, so I've had a lot of fun researching unique ways of addressing suspension setups. I considered a coil front/external rear, but didn't want to get into UCAs and shocks that would need more frequent maintenance than OEM units (debatable). I met one of the TRD engineers that designed and tuned the T/X TRD Baja Series Tacoma, and they had really positive things to say about Bilstein's product. Good seals, quality dampening.
Having road tested a ToyTech Lifted 4R, I felt I had a good baseline and knew what I was looking for... a little more compression dampening and if possible a little more travel up front. Stock, the 4Runner's front can ride stiff over harsh bumps, and I thought the Taco Billys addressed that. But I believe the progressive spring rate of a Tundra TRD front spring will match Bilstein's digressive dampening nicely. There's nothing wrong with the amount of dampening that the Tacoma fronts offer, but I've always preferred to run slightly higher dampening levels.
So I spent some time with one of the western area sales representatives for Bilstein, who was a huge help in figuring out compressed/extended strut dimensions and valving rates to figure out what would work best.
Here's their contact information:
AFTERMARKET & MOTORSPORTS HEADQUARTERS - WEST
ThyssenKrupp Bilstein of America
14102 Stowe Drive
Poway, CA. 92064
1-858-386-5900
AFTERMARKET & MOTORSPORTS HEADQUARTERS - WEST
ThyssenKrupp Bilstein of America
14102 Stowe Drive
Poway, CA. 92064
1-858-386-5900
Bilstein Rep: "Problem with 4Runner's stock suspension is the factory mount is post and eyelet in the rear, not eyelet/eyelet
5100: $75-200 ea, In post/eyelet, Bilstein has 3 valve setting options in 3 different lengths – Lower bushing 5/8”, so will need replaced by a 3/4" bushing in order to fit on the rear of the 4Runner.
IN ORDER TO UNDERSTAND VALVING RATINGS, READ THESE EXAMPLES: -> FIRST # rebound | SECOND # compression. Higher #=firmer dampening, lower #=softer
> 360/80: Used on heavier trucks, industrial applications, etc
> 255/70: Highway hauling shock, or in front of truck b/c that's where the weight is. <<<<<<<<
> 170/60: Usually used in the rear.
- If not happy with valving, Bilstein can re-valve the shocks for $75 ea; it will take 6 weeks
Bilstein doesn't have anything off the shelf that is made for the 4Runner, but looking at the universal offerings, these are the three lengths he mentioned, with rebound and compression valve settings:
> 11.77 - 18.42 366/240
> 12.83 - 20.45 224/100 (rebound/compression) <<<<<<<< $75/ea for revalve service
> 13.27 - 21.5 298/94
7100: $150-200 ea --> No stem to eye mount offered, only 5/8" rubber bushing… I am trying to avoid adaptors at all costs, so I elected not to even look into options (DON’T BUY)
> Rebuildable: Valve adjustable by owner,
> Schrader valve to adjust nitrogen pressure (pressure range 180 lbs - 220 lbs)
- Gas inside shock adjustable (Think of basketball: more air pressure will rebound quicker when bounced…now apply to shock)
9100 bypass: Bypass race syle type shocks Heat sync - $600-800 ea
> 3/4" eye mount uniball eye allows for rotation, so will work for 4Runner rear.
> Adjustments made w/ knob, 6 zones of adj - 4 ext controls: 2 rebound, 2 compression adjusters
> Range: min 16"-24"… not going to happen on rear of 4Runner!
______________________________________________________________
FRONT 5100 STRUT OPTIONS CONSIDERED:
Bilstein P/N: F4-BE5-D558-T0 fits:
96-04 Tacoma
This is a hard strut to find information on. Nothing was listed on the Bilstein site, so I had to dig through the forums to find anything on it. Regardless, the Tacos valving and length numbers on the 5100 series shocks are as follows:
Tacoma valving, lengths Reb 228 Comp 73 Ext 473 Comp 352 (4.76" travel, baseline for others)
__________
Bilstein 24-188265 Monotube Shock Absorber Fits:
2001 - 2007 TOYOTA SEQUOIA Limited
2001 - 2007 TOYOTA SEQUOIA SR5
2000 - 2006 TOYOTA TUNDRA Base
2000 - 2006 TOYOTA TUNDRA Limited
2000 - 2006 TOYOTA TUNDRA SR5
Bilstein Part Number: 24-188265
46mm Monotube Shock Absorber
Internal Design: Monotube
Collapsed Length: 13.23 in / 336 mm
Extended Length: 18.68 in / 474.5 mm
Tundra valving, lengths Reb 303 Comp 96 Ext 474 Comp 335 (5.47" travel, dramatically increased rebound, mildly increased compression valving, and ~17mm of up travel (~.67"=10.7/16) that I might be able to capitalize on with revised front bump stops)
Boot Included: No
Mounting Kit: B4-KT1-Z219A00
Spring Seat: E4-FT1-Z011A01
Reservoir: No
Finish: Zinc Plated
Supercedes: F4-BE5-6929-H1
__________
So I put together a Tundra TRD from coil setup with a Bilstein 5100 front, and made sure the LBJs were in good shape.
______________________________________________________________
For the rear setup, I wanted a little more dampening on both sides of the spectrum, as well adjusting the range of suspension to ensure I wasn't sacrificing all of my down travel for the mild lift. I didn't want to do the ToyTec rear lift, as I'm just not a fan of the upper adaptor mount that converts the shock eye to the stud. There were actually a lot of options, allowing me to pick where I wanted my travel down to the 1/2". From there, I looked up the rebound compression settings that the ToyTech kit uses so I could figure out what I wanted to change. The dampening is 255 rebound/70 compression. According to Bilstein that is valving usually used in the front of a mid-sized truck. Here are the options I looked at, keeping in mind that I wanted additional dampening control (contrary to popular belief, Bilstein can rebuild and revalve 5100 for $75 ea... it takes 6 weeks to process and ship back - but they are not customer rebuildable).
__________
REAR SHOCK OPTIONS:
ToyTec Rear shock - from factory is eyelet to eyelet, so needs adapter which is included.
Bilstein P/N: 0711123 33-185590 H5
Compressed 13.58-13.66" Extended 21.54-21.63" (~7.97" shock)
Valving: 255 rebound valving 70 compression valving
Not an option IMO, b/c of the mounts.
__________
Bilstein 24-185684 Monotube Shock Absorber Fits:
1983 - 1986 FORD RANGER Base; 2 Doors; Standard Cab Pickup
1983 - 1986 FORD RANGER XL; 2 Doors; Standard Cab Pickup
1983 - 1985 FORD RANGER XLS; 2 Doors; Standard Cab Pickup
1983 - 1987 FORD RANGER XLT; 2 Doors; Standard Cab Pickup
1984 - 1987 FORD RANGER S; 2 Doors; Standard Cab Pickup
1986 - 1986 FORD RANGER Base; 2 Doors; Extended Cab Pickup
1986 - 1987 FORD RANGER STX; 2 Doors; Extended Cab Pickup
1986 - 1987 FORD RANGER STX; 2 Doors; Standard Cab Pickup
1986 - 1986 FORD RANGER XL; 2 Doors; Extended Cab Pickup
1986 - 1987 FORD RANGER XLT; 2 Doors; Extended Cab Pickup
1987 - 1987 FORD RANGER Custom; 2 Doors; Extended Cab Pickup
1987 - 1987 FORD RANGER Custom; 2 Doors; Standard Cab Pickup
1988 - 1992 FORD RANGER Custom
1988 - 1992 FORD RANGER S
1988 - 1997 FORD RANGER STX
1988 - 1997 FORD RANGER XLT
1989 - 1989 FORD RANGER GT
1990 - 1990 FORD RANGER S Plus
1991 - 1997 FORD RANGER Sport
1993 - 1997 FORD RANGER Splash
1993 - 1997 FORD RANGER XL
1995 - 1995 FORD RANGER XL Sport
Bilstein 24-185684
46mm Monotube Shock Absorber
Internal Design: Monotube
Collapsed Length: 12.87 in / 327 mm
Extended Length: 20.49 in / 520.5 mm
Rebound 224 Compression 100
Boot Included: Black Bellows
Mounting Kit: B4-KT1-Z103A02
Spring Seat: No
Reservoir: No
Finish: Zinc Plated
Supercedes: F4-BE5-6526-H7
__________
24-151627 Monotube Shock Absorber Fits:
999 - 2006 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500 Base, LS, LT
2002 - 2002 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500 Custom
2002 - 2006 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500 WT
2004 - 2006 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500 Hybrid
2004 - 2004 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500 Z71
Bilstein 24-151627
46mm Monotube Shock Absorber
Internal Design: Monotube
Collapsed Length: 13.27 in / 337 mm
Extended Length: 21.5 in / 546.2 mm
Rebound 298 Compression 94
Boot Included: Black Bellows
Mounting Kit: No
Spring Seat: No
Reservoir: No
Finish: Zinc Plated
Supercedes: F4-BE5-F162-H0
__________
Bilstein 24-100144 Monotube Shock Absorber Fits:
2000 - 2006 TOYOTA TUNDRA Base
2000 - 2006 TOYOTA TUNDRA Limited
2000 - 2006 TOYOTA TUNDRA SR5
Bilstein 24-100144
46mm Monotube Shock Absorber
Internal Design: Monotube
Collapsed Length: 13.84 in / 351.5 mm
Extended Length: 22.4 in / 569 mm
Rebound ____ Compression ______ (STILL WAITING TO HEAR BACK FROM BILSTEIN)
Boot Included: Black Bellows
Mounting Kit: B4-KT1-Z008A00
Spring Seat: No
Reservoir: No
Finish: Zinc Plated
Supercedes: F4-BE5-A014-H7
__________
So there are three options. I have a great picture below with madman-style notes that shows how the range of suspension is changed with the 2" lift I had planned. On the left is the OEM 4600 replacement Bilstein, followed left to right: Ranger, Silverado, then Tundra shocks.
I'm a visual person, so this is what worked for me. This is top to bottom.
- Compressed dimension
- Up travel measurement (circled)
- Static shock length with 50 lbs in back
- Down travel (circled)
- Extended length
- Valving, rebound/compression (255/70 is not tied to the shock above it, it is valving information for the ToyTech rears)
Basically (right... ), I chose the Silverado rear shocks (third over from left) because of the strong rebound and compression dampening, as well as the balance of up and down travel. Also, remember that with more gear in the back, I will eat up what little up travel I have. If you are considering a 3"+ inch lift, I'd highly recommend the Tundra rears. I haven't heard back from Bilstein on the valving information, but it looks like the up/down travel would be nicely balanced. You will NEED to take time and measure to see if you'll need to run aftermarket bump stop to ensure you don't bottom the shock out (the shock is nearly 1.5" shorter than an OEM replacement).
______________________________________________________________
The rest of this stuff will need to be figured out once I get everything installed. I'll need to make sure I space the rear stops enough so I don't bottom my shocks out. The rear panhard bar is a MUST in my book, but I'll have to wait until more funds come in.
Last edited:
The4kbeast
New member
Papa's got some new shoes... Off a 94 LX450. Specs are 16x8, 0 offset, 4.5" backspacing.
Would have liked to find some non-chrome, as I really like the look of the oem aluminum. But the chrome is in really good condition for its age, and I need to keep this project moving. At least the measurements are optimal. What I though was really odd was that the spare is a normal alloy. At least it is full size:
Figures... Right after I bought them, I found another deal for wheels + used tires for a bit more than I paid. I guess now at least I'll have full tread going into fall/winter. Unless I can find a good deal on some 285/65/R16 tires with good treadwear. Or maybe I can just pick up the others as well. My wife is going to kill me, lol.
Link to a post with good OEM wheel option info: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/70421-oem-rims-fit-3rd-gens.html#post608141 -- My 4th gen 4Runner 17x7.5 30 offset 5.5 backspacing and 265/65/R17s will be going up for sale soon enough. Need room in the garage!!!
Would have liked to find some non-chrome, as I really like the look of the oem aluminum. But the chrome is in really good condition for its age, and I need to keep this project moving. At least the measurements are optimal. What I though was really odd was that the spare is a normal alloy. At least it is full size:
Figures... Right after I bought them, I found another deal for wheels + used tires for a bit more than I paid. I guess now at least I'll have full tread going into fall/winter. Unless I can find a good deal on some 285/65/R16 tires with good treadwear. Or maybe I can just pick up the others as well. My wife is going to kill me, lol.
Link to a post with good OEM wheel option info: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/70421-oem-rims-fit-3rd-gens.html#post608141 -- My 4th gen 4Runner 17x7.5 30 offset 5.5 backspacing and 265/65/R17s will be going up for sale soon enough. Need room in the garage!!!
Last edited:
The4kbeast
New member
Tire decision time...
Considering my options on tires. Thinking of 285/65/R16... Used on and off road, not ultimate traction. Though I have heard good things about some select MTs.
I know I've like LT tires tough enough for the trail (incl sidewall), gummie enough that they can conform to the ground, yet durable enough to last a couple of years with weekend highway usage.
I'm intrigued by all of the discussions on Tacoma World's forums about 255/85 KM2s, but the 8" wheels would stretch the side wall enough that they wouldn't offer the wheels much protection. Wish there was a 265/80 I could run, as I'd like to have the outer diameter of a 33 in a slightly narrower casing than a 285/75.
But im thinking BFGs 265/75/R16 is my fall back, as I may be able to get a discount through work (crossing fingers).
Considering my options on tires. Thinking of 285/65/R16... Used on and off road, not ultimate traction. Though I have heard good things about some select MTs.
I know I've like LT tires tough enough for the trail (incl sidewall), gummie enough that they can conform to the ground, yet durable enough to last a couple of years with weekend highway usage.
I'm intrigued by all of the discussions on Tacoma World's forums about 255/85 KM2s, but the 8" wheels would stretch the side wall enough that they wouldn't offer the wheels much protection. Wish there was a 265/80 I could run, as I'd like to have the outer diameter of a 33 in a slightly narrower casing than a 285/75.
But im thinking BFGs 265/75/R16 is my fall back, as I may be able to get a discount through work (crossing fingers).
The4kbeast
New member
Front end lift goodies have arrived.
BrianSD_42
New member
Hi,
I've been following your thread for a bit here.
A few things:
* that Bluetooth code scanner looks cool. I will look into it.
* I recommend BFG AT tires, I have 265x75x16. They are ~ 31.5"
* also recommend General AT2 tires. They are same for $40 less per tire
* the SS 1.2 kit is only $1250, not $1800.
* there are many many threads on this topic including the sticky by SteezeMcueen
* if you haven't already try my "how to search properly" thread below in my signature
* I did the dynamat mod but using roofing-material, $120 for 100+ square-ft, use the search thread to find those threads. Key words try sound dampening
Good luck
I've been following your thread for a bit here.
A few things:
* that Bluetooth code scanner looks cool. I will look into it.
* I recommend BFG AT tires, I have 265x75x16. They are ~ 31.5"
* also recommend General AT2 tires. They are same for $40 less per tire
* the SS 1.2 kit is only $1250, not $1800.
* there are many many threads on this topic including the sticky by SteezeMcueen
* if you haven't already try my "how to search properly" thread below in my signature
* I did the dynamat mod but using roofing-material, $120 for 100+ square-ft, use the search thread to find those threads. Key words try sound dampening
Good luck
The4kbeast
New member
Sup Brian, thanks for the note and recommendations. At some point I plan on coming back in here and cleaning up the thread and making sure the info is 100% correct. Got an update I'm going to add now on my work today.
The4kbeast
New member
Replacing leaky valve cover seals, passenger side AND DRIVERS SIDE <ick>. Tried to avoid opening up the cooling system, but got sick of irking around the throttle plate and drained a liter or so of coolant.
I removed the intake manifold in two pieces so I could clean out the build up better. (didn't get a picture of them separated)
Not bad for 200k miles. The previous owner was good with oil changes.
Replaced the spark plug gaskets because they were splitting. On the left is the new one installed, right is the empty spot where the next seal will go.
All tightened down, per the FSM. Also replaced the plugs... They had the single prong plugs, not dual.
Now going back to finish the drivers side. I'm 11 hours into it now... Yes, 11...
I removed the intake manifold in two pieces so I could clean out the build up better. (didn't get a picture of them separated)
Not bad for 200k miles. The previous owner was good with oil changes.
Replaced the spark plug gaskets because they were splitting. On the left is the new one installed, right is the empty spot where the next seal will go.
All tightened down, per the FSM. Also replaced the plugs... They had the single prong plugs, not dual.
Now going back to finish the drivers side. I'm 11 hours into it now... Yes, 11...
Last edited:
The4kbeast
New member
Status report: 3rd gen 4runner valve cover seal replacement
Just wrapped up for the night (morning?). I dropped a nut for the throttle body and spent a freaking hour trying to find it (get your mind out of the gutter). Still have no idea where it is. Here's where I left off:
Tomorrow I'll come back with fresh eyes and finish everything up. A few recommendations and tips:
- I took a few pictures before in case I couldn't figure out Vaccum lines. What came in more useful for me was labeling bags with a bolt/nut with what pieces they connected
- you don't have to crack the fuel system to do this maintenance
- you do have to drain about a liter of coolant from the radiator, as coolant passes through two hoses directly under the throttle body to aid with cold weather starts
- if you're following the FSM, you don't have to remove the front engine cover. At that point, just work on disconnecting the both sides of the wiring harness that reaches around either sides of the engine block. It will give you enough slack so you can maneuver around everything. The drivers side is still a pain in the arse, but this is easier than stripping everything down
- the mvp of the day was not just my BFH, but also my extendable magnet. I dropped a bunch of bolts and nuts and you should always have a few on hand
- do it in one day unless you are awesome at labeling. Even when I'm a zombie things go together easier than if I would have taken the Entune weekend to do it.
I read one guy did this job in 7 hours and he called himself OCD because he cleaned every nut. I did it in 16... what does that make me, lol? :rockthrow:
I had ordered an extra throttle plate because of how restrictive I was thinking it would be to the air volume coming in the engine, but opted not to. the PCV inlet drops right behind the blockage, so I think it is used to create a low pressure area so it pulls a Vaccum. Here's what I was looking at:
Would be interesting to try, but time is short and I'm baked for the day.
Just wrapped up for the night (morning?). I dropped a nut for the throttle body and spent a freaking hour trying to find it (get your mind out of the gutter). Still have no idea where it is. Here's where I left off:
Tomorrow I'll come back with fresh eyes and finish everything up. A few recommendations and tips:
- I took a few pictures before in case I couldn't figure out Vaccum lines. What came in more useful for me was labeling bags with a bolt/nut with what pieces they connected
- you don't have to crack the fuel system to do this maintenance
- you do have to drain about a liter of coolant from the radiator, as coolant passes through two hoses directly under the throttle body to aid with cold weather starts
- if you're following the FSM, you don't have to remove the front engine cover. At that point, just work on disconnecting the both sides of the wiring harness that reaches around either sides of the engine block. It will give you enough slack so you can maneuver around everything. The drivers side is still a pain in the arse, but this is easier than stripping everything down
- the mvp of the day was not just my BFH, but also my extendable magnet. I dropped a bunch of bolts and nuts and you should always have a few on hand
- do it in one day unless you are awesome at labeling. Even when I'm a zombie things go together easier than if I would have taken the Entune weekend to do it.
I read one guy did this job in 7 hours and he called himself OCD because he cleaned every nut. I did it in 16... what does that make me, lol? :rockthrow:
I had ordered an extra throttle plate because of how restrictive I was thinking it would be to the air volume coming in the engine, but opted not to. the PCV inlet drops right behind the blockage, so I think it is used to create a low pressure area so it pulls a Vaccum. Here's what I was looking at:
Would be interesting to try, but time is short and I'm baked for the day.
The4kbeast
New member
I wish I would have one the PCV mod while I was apart. Just looking at where the PCV starts spewing crap into the intake (above) makes me realize how valuable a catch can would be.
Looking at a simple black one on eBay... it'd be a fun challenge to try to come up with an OEM look.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-H...?forcev4exp=true&forceRpt=true#ht_2808wt_1018
eace:
Looking at a simple black one on eBay... it'd be a fun challenge to try to come up with an OEM look.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-H...?forcev4exp=true&forceRpt=true#ht_2808wt_1018
eace:
Last edited:
The4kbeast
New member
: Drool :
Light Racing Jounce Kits, front and rear:
$900+, Front: http://www.lightracing.com/images/stories/articles/installins/25742-INS.pdf
$700, Rear: http://www.spcalignment.net/instructions/25746-INS_WEB.pdf
I want the rear, to start! But I just can't stomach spending $1,600 on suspended bump stops. The compression and rebound are adjustable independently, and it is a really cool setup. But I need to keep looking for something dead nuts reliable and with lower maintenance. And that's cheaper.
Light Racing Jounce Kits, front and rear:
$900+, Front: http://www.lightracing.com/images/stories/articles/installins/25742-INS.pdf
$700, Rear: http://www.spcalignment.net/instructions/25746-INS_WEB.pdf
I want the rear, to start! But I just can't stomach spending $1,600 on suspended bump stops. The compression and rebound are adjustable independently, and it is a really cool setup. But I need to keep looking for something dead nuts reliable and with lower maintenance. And that's cheaper.
Last edited:
Similar threads
