>BUILD THREAD< The4kbeast's 3rd-Gen 2000 T4R SR5 (Highlander Edition) 4x4 Build

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I know him personally and to say he has attention to detail is a gross understatement.

So you've gone and diagnosed me with OCD now, eh? Lol

Did I forget to upload the cargo mat pic earlier?
2y2a8yde.jpg


Here's a summary of the next week or so:
uzavata2.jpg
 
Working on the Taco whip mod. Man, these fender liners and flares are a pain to work around by the power antenna.

When I took the dash/console apart I learned something about the PO; he liked nuts. Weird.
 
A few hours (and a couple of beers later), my whip mod is complete. Here's the P/N I used:
e4ajeva3.jpg


Here it is installed:
eva6a3up.jpg


It ended up being taller than the roof itself. Well have to look to make sure I ended up getting the recommended ones.

For those that are clip impaired and attempting the whip mod, here's a picture of the clips you'll encounter on the fender splash liners x 5:
tery2e6e.jpg


In the how to tips I've read no one ever talked about how to pop then out without breaking them. So here's what you do.... NOTE how there are four dots on the head and text on two sides. These are the two sides you'll need to pinch on to release the clip.

8asunete.jpg


Start with the smallest flathead screw driver you have and switch between each text side,.using light leverage to make enough room to get a needle nose in there to pinch and remove the clip.
gaquqezu.jpg

When you have it securely with the needle nose, gently pull the clip rocking from text side to text side. Unless the clip is trashed, sun baked, or heavily salted, it should come out.

I also finished the wiring harness for the iPhone connection and figured out a way to run the cable so I didn't have do drill through the center column like some others have done. I have a Droid, so I had just enough slack to write the in line usb hookup to where I can get to it - check out the pic. I also had to do some finishing sanding to the lower lip of the din cutout so the bottom of the stereo wouldn't catch it when it tilts out.
de2evu8a.jpg


That is all for tonight!
 
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No offense, but i see a lot of people on here buying the tacoma whip antenna straight from OEM, but you can easily find these at salvage yards or pick n pulls. The threading is the same on many vehicles. I think i got mine for 5$ out the door. You also aren't limited to the all black coiled version.

Your truck looks good though. Thanks for the pics of the weather tec liners, i know a few people have been asking how they fit.
 
No offense, but i see a lot of people on here buying the tacoma whip antenna straight from OEM, but you can easily find these at salvage yards or pick n pulls. The threading is the same on many vehicles. I think i got mine for 5$ out the door. You also aren't limited to the all black coiled version.

Your truck looks good though. Thanks for the pics of the weather tec liners, i know a few people have been asking how they fit.

No offense taken. I'd really like to pick up some LX 450 or Land Cruiser wheels, so it might be good to look around for a slightly shorter antenna. Mint OEM was no big deal to me at the time. I had a pretty big order, so I got a discount.

Thanks for the compliments. The mats are cool, figured someone would be interested in them.
 
Nice... evidently the anti-drainback valve is only good for building oil pressure at engine starts.



Good to hear that you're a fan of the Tundra setup. Despite the increased dampening, does it still have small bump compliance? Is the compression dampening too firm? Is it too firm on paved roads? Based off of how things ride now, I'm thinking that the front needs a softer setup or it will shake my teeth out offroad.

As for the rear, I'm concerned that a 906 would be too short for some of the longer rear shocks. I helped a buddy put a lift on his '97 4Runner w/ 906's with longer rear shocks and the spring would unseat in extreme articulation situations. I did a search to see if others had a good explanation of the differences between OME static lengths... here's an explanation from Valkyrie over on TTORA.

//SNIP// from Valkyrie at TTORA
Here's the scoop:
The 906 is actually a 'medium' spring specifically designed for the 4Runner. It results in about 2" of lift.
The 890 is a medium spring actually originally designed for the Prado (i.e. it is medium for the Prado, which is much heavier than a 4Runner). Figure 1.5" of lift on the Prado will be about 2.75" to 3" of lift on a 4Runner with a 330lb constant weight capacity.
The 891 is a heavy spring designed also for the Prado. It has a larger diameter coil, but is shorter in overall free height. However, with a rating fo 660lbs consant load, i would expect over 3" of lift on a 4Runner. I also think that it would be very firm.
//SNIP//

Sounds like the 890s would be the best candidates, but I'm shocked at how little information is available on spring and shock specs. Maybe I could call ToyTech and see if I could get some dimensions...

A jounce stop is another name for a bump stop. I work with engineers and they get uppity when I say bump stop... same thing when you say sway bar instead of anti-sway bar. The explanation they gave, to put it in perspective, is when you drive over a bump and the suspension is momentarily compressed, that's called jounce. When it springs back, that's called rebound. Hope that makes sense.

I have run OEM suspension, and Performance Products coils with KYB gas shocks. So my opinion of the tundra set up is all relative to those two. I got the package deal (original toyota bilsteins with the tundra TRD coils) so obviously the shock rebound is intended specifically for the TRD spring rates. I think the ride is great. I do have a front end issue, but it's in my steering rack, not the suspension. As far as compression and rebound, I would say its perfect. The coils are soft enough to compress, and there's no bounce on the rebound despite the set up being intended for a heavier vehicle. I dont remember my OEM suspension very well, I just recall it being softer. The PP coils with KYB shocks were similar to the TRD set up, but despite being progressive the PP coils were stiffer. The TRD set up is ovbiously stiffer than OEM, but is very planted and handles well in any scenario imo. Overall I would highly prefer my TRD set up.


I dont "rock crawl" with my 4runner, so the long shocks to short coils issue isnt really a concern for me. Somewhere on the forum there's a thread floating around that lists the specs of OME coils, including spring rate and coil length. The 906s are shorter by an inch or so, and slightly stiffer. Like you said, 890s are your best bet for longer shocks. Ill find that thread and give you the link if you want it . . .
 
Thanks for the tip on the fender clips. Don't you just love having a bunch of brand new OEM parts ready to install?
 
I have run OEM suspension, and Performance Products coils with KYB gas shocks. So my opinion of the tundra set up is all relative to those two. I got the package deal (original toyota bilsteins with the tundra TRD coils) so obviously the shock rebound is intended specifically for the TRD spring rates. I think the ride is great. I do have a front end issue, but it's in my steering rack, not the suspension. As far as compression and rebound, I would say its perfect. The coils are soft enough to compress, and there's no bounce on the rebound despite the set up being intended for a heavier vehicle. I dont remember my OEM suspension very well, I just recall it being softer. The PP coils with KYB shocks were similar to the TRD set up, but despite being progressive the PP coils were stiffer. The TRD set up is ovbiously stiffer than OEM, but is very planted and handles well in any scenario imo. Overall I would highly prefer my TRD set up.

I dont "rock crawl" with my 4runner, so the long shocks to short coils issue isnt really a concern for me. Somewhere on the forum there's a thread floating around that lists the specs of OME coils, including spring rate and coil length. The 906s are shorter by an inch or so, and slightly stiffer. Like you said, 890s are your best bet for longer shocks. Ill find that thread and give you the link if you want it . . .

Sounds like we would have similar usage. So you are using the Tundra TRD Off-Road Bilstein shock/spring assembly, not the 5100? From what I've read, you're the first person to say that they weren't stiff as can be on a 4R. With as quick as the rebound is though, do you find it can be choppy on the highway at speed? I'd imagine that those springs with a Tundra 5100 would be my top choice next to a coilover with adjustable spring preload. The progressive spring would match the 5100s dampening characteristics very well.

Thanks for the tip on the fender clips. Don't you just love having a bunch of brand new OEM parts ready to install?

NP. Can you think of any other keywords I need to add to the description in case anyone does a search if they're having trouble? Wish there was a way for all of us to maintain some of the How-Tos as a community... I followed one How-To taking apart my dash and didn't realize that the 99+ dash doesn't require the AC faceplate to be removed to get at screws - they guide was for an earlier, different MY.
LOVE having new parts, but painful having a full weekend planned with other things that don't leave time to install said parts. LOL. Actually, what's nice is working on a nice CA car again. Just moved back from New England, and at a minimum every other bolt would freeze or break off. I used my torch more than any other tool in my arsenal.
 
Test drive, Fox suspension research

I know him personally and to say he has attention to detail is a gross understatement.

Met up and drove 1srgagen's '97 Ltd on Taco 5100/stock springs on 3rd 2.5" notch and OME 890 (med duty)/5100s tonight.

First off, I was pleasantly surprised with the overall feel of the setup. The ride was pretty soft and plush on road hitting our test whoops around town (no time for off-road today, so the large roller speed bumps was all we could do). The front seemed to have a higher compression dampening level and spring rate than the back. Turn in felt good still and not super floaty (he still has sway bar hooked up). I can't figure out if there is too much rebound dampening or if it was all the extra weight in the back of his rig I was feeling. But it definitely rode much smoother than my tired 200k mi old suspension.

Current thoughts: Tundra front 5100 with Tundra TRD Spring (rebound compression too high?)
Smallest LC coils (7.5 coil???) with unknown LC shocks.

Researched Fox suspension's applications for 3rd gen 4Runners tonight, couldn't find anyone on the board running these. Found some people running them on Tacoma on other forums:
2.0" Coilover run about $360-400 ea online, 0-2" lift
2.5" Front coilover run about $1.1k for the pair. One is std length 0-2" lift, another is 0-3" lift and requires an aftermarket UCA

Dream susp setup: 2.5" front coilover with UCA/OEM dimension LCA w/ plate protection, 2.0" rear shock with external resi, LC 7.5 coil with internally mounted 2.0" bump stop on rear and also mounted up front (avail 2.5, 3, 4" travel)

Actual susp setup: Stock 200k mi setup... I've got a long way to go.... : )
 
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Sounds like we would have similar usage. So you are using the Tundra TRD Off-Road Bilstein shock/spring assembly, not the 5100? From what I've read, you're the first person to say that they weren't stiff as can be on a 4R. With as quick as the rebound is though, do you find it can be choppy on the highway at speed? I'd imagine that those springs with a Tundra 5100 would be my top choice next to a coilover with adjustable spring preload. The progressive spring would match the 5100s dampening characteristics very well.

Well, again my impressions are relative to my previous two suspension set-ups. But compared to the PP coils/KYB shocks, the TRD set up feels less choppy. Im sure I have become slightly immune to the ride as Ive been on it now for about 6 months, but I really have no complaints. I have the stock bilsteins, not the 5100s. Obviously it's stiffer than the stock suspension, both on spring compression and rebound. Many on the forum like to call that a more "sporty" ride. And if you got a set and didnt like the ride, you would have no trouble at all selling them on the forum for something softer.
 
Actually, what's nice is working on a nice CA car again. Just moved back from New England, and at a minimum every other bolt would freeze or break off. I used my torch more than any other tool in my arsenal.

Lucky. I changed my rear bumper this summer and what I thought would be a couple of hours in the driveway turned into a trip to the bodyshop. I didn't have air tools and I didn't want to snap a bolt. They did it in an hour but my ebay bumper is complete crap and the pieces won't align correctly. Hopefully I can get a set of Shrockworks bumpers soon.
 
Well, again my impressions are relative to my previous two suspension set-ups. But compared to the PP coils/KYB shocks, the TRD set up feels less choppy. Im sure I have become slightly immune to the ride as Ive been on it now for about 6 months, but I really have no complaints. I have the stock bilsteins, not the 5100s. Obviously it's stiffer than the stock suspension, both on spring compression and rebound. Many on the forum like to call that a more "sporty" ride. And if you got a set and didnt like the ride, you would have no trouble at all selling them on the forum for something softer.

Not a bad point, and they can be found on other fourms. I've always been impressed with the difference the TRD suspension makes on Tacomas and Tundras, so I'm not surprised that you say it is a nice package for the 4R. How does the front compare to the 890s/LC dampers you are running out back? I drove a 4R with 890/5100s yesterday and it seemed to pogo a bit after larger bumps. Does the ride feel balanced over bumps front to back? Does one feel different than the other or have a different feel?

Read your build... need to research the ISR mod...
 
Lucky. I changed my rear bumper this summer and what I thought would be a couple of hours in the driveway turned into a trip to the bodyshop. I didn't have air tools and I didn't want to snap a bolt. They did it in an hour but my ebay bumper is complete crap and the pieces won't align correctly. Hopefully I can get a set of Shrockworks bumpers soon.

Dude, I feel your pain. I swapped a cat-back exhaust on my 91 MR2 and couldn't believe that I managed to snap a 17mm bolt off at the head... :ybrick: very frustrating!! In my experience, air tools didn't even help. In that case, it is better to use PB Blast to repeatedly soak the bolt for a day or so, breaking up the soaking with a torch. Obviously you'd want to let the PB evaporate so you don't light a fire, but that can make a big difference. Other thing I always wanted to try was that super-freeze in a can they sell at parts stores... Next time I'm unsure about a bolt I'll have to run and get some (adding it to my next impulse buy list). So they weren't able to get the bumper to line up at all?! That sucks!! Were you ever rear-ended, or were the brackets just not lining up on the bumper's mount?
 
Sanoran Steel's 7.2 rear-only kit

Family in town this past weekend, so only had time to continue reading about suspension setups.

Sanoran Steel has a pretty cool setup for the 3rd Gen 4Runner's rear... going to write them with some questions I have about their setup. I think it would match up nicely with a Tundra 5100 setup.

Link:
1996-2000 System 7.2 - Rear only lift [1996-2000 System 7.2 - Rear] - $695.00 : Sonoran Steel, Sonoran Steel Custom Metal Fabrication L.L.C. Custom Toyota Truck Parts

Questions:
- What valving do the Bilstein 5125 Shocks come with? I'm looking for something with a little more compression dampening than the 5100 rear shocks that outfits like ToyTech are selling. I've considered Land Cruiser rear suspension to try to get additional dampening control for the rear suspension, but Bilstein doesn't make anything for the FZJ80. Also, what mounts do the shocks come with, and are adapters needed? Trying to find something that doesn't mount different than OEM.

- Is the intent behind the installation of the Daystar Competition Style bump stops to allow for modification or removal of the factory inter-spring cone-style rear bump stops, or are they mean to work in conjuction with them? How would you describe the engagement "feel" of these bump stops compared to OEM?
 
So they weren't able to get the bumper to line up at all?! That sucks!! Were you ever rear-ended, or were the brackets just not lining up on the bumper's mount?

Brackets lined up correctly, it was just that the ebay parts had room for adjustment. I'll probably take the entire thing apart when it warms up and do some bending an dremeling to the brackets and pieces. At least it is more presentable than the giant rust holes and dents.

Sorry for the threadjack by the way.
 
Dy-na-mite! Er, I mean dynamat...

Installing Dynamat in cargo area and doors for a quieter ride and for a better sound field.

I ordered two trunk kits - each kit comes with 5 sheets that cover 4 sq ft... For a total of 20 sq ft of coverage in each box. Cost was about $160 for both on Amazon.

To give you an idea of what 4 sq ft covers, check the pic:
4424EAD1-5650-4D9A-A784-753E16CF5ACA-10444-0000194BA1C3F38A.jpg~original

5A057983-3AA2-4A9D-944D-958A51B6BDC5-10444-0000194BB60B212B.jpg~original

34798C56-0639-4BEC-B80A-EAD836D13D1B-10444-0000194BAA29B8AA.jpg~original


8 sq ft:
CE30880E-9BBB-49EE-A0B8-E881172F28C4-10444-0000194BBC03D9FC.jpg~original

00D7F269-C95B-4513-9CEA-61054F6C893F-10444-0000194BCE6CAEB8.jpg~original


15 sq ft:
DB90D5B2-FB7C-49ED-A161-D25D05DF9200-10444-0000194BDB1BB3B9.jpg~original


From what Ive layed down so far, it takes two 4 sq ft sheets to cover each wheel well, two 4 sq ft sheets to cover the cargo floor, and then the last 4 sq ft section has been cut into strips and used to place on the center of quarter panel sheet metal to cut vibration transmission up into the c and d pillars. Headed back out to finish the other rear wheel well... Thinking the first 20 sq ft should give me enough coverage!
 
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Update

Finished the driver's side rear wheel well... I was aggressive, so 20 sq ft barely gave me enough coverage!

Overall pic:
0DAAD402-9632-46F6-87B3-8942B2658F53-10444-0000195E46BCA620.jpg~original


Detail:
36DEE490-80C3-4D4F-91C5-7A8D3AA89115-10444-0000195E4D38482A.jpg~original


CARGO AREA SOUND DEADENING CONCLUSIONS:
If you stick to just the wheel wells and cargo area, a Dynamat trunk kit would work on a third gen 4Runner. It takes a 4 sq ft sheet to cover each wheel well, two 4 sq ft sheets to cover the cargo floor, and then the last 4 sq ft section can be used to patch spots and to dampen the exterior body panels. When you knock on the rear quarter panels, they sound totally different than the doors. Will have to take it out on the highway tomorrow to see what effect it has on interior sound levels.
 
not sure if you have any updates concerning the coilover options, but the guys other in the 5th gen section have NOTHING but great things to say about the radflo set. they are valved specifically for the 5th gen 4runners (im assuming 3rd as well) vs bilstein's which are .. well bilsteins :fro:
 

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