Building the Black Pearl...

[jstim]

Hey dude sorry to see that about the UCA bushings. Those don't look normal at all. You should ask them to send you a new set for free and mail them a pic.

Was it installed like that and it just go worse?

BTW I finally have the Built Right logos and decals if you want one. I'll add them to the other thread.

Its not a big deal, I think it was how I installed them the first time. I put them in, I snugged the botd down a little bit, and greased them up. Guess I over greased them, and it just didn't have anywhere to escape. I called, and ordered a second set of bushings from the Truck Shop. They got them out to me quick, and I re-installed the new ones, greased them up before I put the bolts on, so the grease could escape.

It never really got worse as time went on, just think the polyurethane pushed out and the washer started to cut into it. Luckily its all good now, just have to call them tomorrow and ask what the torque specs are on the bolt. I am getting a weird squeak and clunk going over some smaller bumps, and don't want to go to tight on that bolt and start cutting into the bushings with the washers again.

[MENTION=65101]BrianSD_42[/MENTION], I definitely am always down for stickers/decals. Got to add more to my Yeti cooler. Are they in your build thread? Where did you get your poly body bushings?

 

[BrianSD_42]

I got my poly body mount bushings from 4Crawler's body lift website.

The bushings in my UCAs are the ones from Built Right.

About the Build Right sticker's I've got several. PM me your mailing address.

 

[jstim]

I got my poly body mount bushings from 4Crawler's body lift website.

The bushings in my UCAs are the ones from Built Right.

About the Build Right sticker's I've got several. PM me your mailing address.

They are closed today, so I will call The Truck Shop tomorrow. Hopefully I can figure out what the Built Right Torque specs are.

Edit: I am pretty sure that I know what it is. The UCA at the frame is 87 ft lbs. I didn't go that tight because I was starting to worry about crushing the polyurethane bushings. Still going to call The Truck Shop tomorrow, to make sure that I should be going that tight. That will probably get rid of said mysterious clunk and squeak.

 

[jstim]

Going to take a page out of [MENTION=65101]BrianSD_42[/MENTION] for a bit. I'm going to order some new body mount bushings from 4Crawler, the only thing that's sucks is they said it will be weeks.

Side note, does anyone know if you can retrofit a shark fin antenna to the 3rd gens? My xm antenna broke and I think I want to upgrade and something to look a little more stock.

On the upside I got 4 interior door panels, with great switches, a center console piece(the part around the radio and heating switches), and door sills. So need to get those in this weekend.

Look what came in the mail today, I'll be putting this in and making the CB fit this weekend too!

 

[JerkyDrewster]

Great looking rig so far! It's almost as if we have the same exact truck :thumb3:

I can't wait to see what else you will be adding to it in the future and good luck on the fuse box! That's one of the next things I am looking to do on mine too.

 

[jstim]

What is everyone's thoughts on skid plates? I am looking at the big 3, Bud Built, Savage, and Shrockworks.

Does anyone have the Shrockworks?

What do you guys think of them, and how much protection are you really getting?
[MENTION=65101]BrianSD_42[/MENTION] do you have the font and rear setup from Savage, or just the front?

 

[BrianSD_42]

I just have the front skid from savage. Very happy. I prefer it over the Bud Built because it is two pieces and much easier to remove.

 

[jstim]

I just have the front skid from savage. Very happy. I prefer it over the Bud Built because it is two pieces and much easier to remove.

As you can see I am thinking about it, I just wonder if I can put the Shrockworks gas tank skid under it with the Savage. Its so much cheaper.

 

[BrianSD_42]

$320 for a gas tank skid seems pretty expensive. Plus another $75 in shipping at least.

I'd like to get a gas tank skid but I need something more affordable. That is over $400 with shipping.

I'm thinking I could get this made for $250 or less local.

 

[jstim]

$320 for a gas tank skid seems pretty expensive. Plus another $75 in shipping at least.

I'd like to get a gas tank skid but I need something more affordable. That is over $400 with shipping.

I'm thinking I could get this made for $250 or less local.

Yup! That's what keeps me so hesitant. I get it they make a bunch of quality stuff. Pricing wise just seems a little crazy to me. It has me re-thinking their front and rear bumpers and going with 4X innovations.

I need to make a decision though. As much as I love my 3rd gen, I have a 5th gen too that I am trying to mod. Cant afford to mod both, have rolled the thought around of ditching the 3rd gen for the right price. I don't know what the right price is.

 

[jstim]

Got the Built Right stickers/decal that [MENTION=65101]BrianSD_42[/MENTION] sent me today! So excited about that.

On a second note, I am starting to think my mysterious clunk from the front end is coming from none other than...................the lower control arms. Who knows though. I want to replace the whole LCA. So we will see.

I also am very interested in doing a shark fin XM antenna. Since it doesn't look like it has been done, I am going to give it a whirl I guess. Now I just need to get my hands on one.

 

[gclark14]

[MENTION=110387]jstim[/MENTION] I've got a black pearl of my own haha, cool to see someone else building up something so similar

 

[jstim]

So this weekend was supposed to be the weekend that I dropped in my Blue Sea fuse block, and wired up my CB.....but I didn't make it that far.

I have been sitting on this new bushing kit from 4Crawler for a couple weeks, as well as the 1.5" body lift kit from [MENTION=14772]shootmymime[/MENTION].

So I started the weekend undoing all the body bolts, and prepping to put the body lift on with the poly body bushings. Got the drivers side all apart, and the bushings put in the way I think they go. Ran into some issues, once I lowered the drivers side back down, the body wasn't even touching the bushing (bushings 3 and 4 from the front counting back).

I don't know if I am confused, or if I am just stupid. Was trying to get this thing together for this coming weekends trip. So if you guys have any suggestions, let me know please.

If there is anyone around me in Cameron, NC who knows whats up, I am open to help. Beer sounds like a fair trade no?

Oh and yes that .5" white block is part of the kit that 4Crawler sent me, not sure where it fits in to the body bushing kit exactly.

 

[jstim]

Did some wheeling at the Cove in VA this weekend. Doing big things.

 

[98WhiteT4R]

I just have the front skid from savage. Very happy. I prefer it over the Bud Built because it is two pieces and much easier to remove.

 

[RockenAlex]

I have been sitting on this new bushing kit from 4Crawler for a couple weeks, as well as the 1.5" body lift kit.

So I started the weekend undoing all the body bolts, and prepping to put the body lift on with the poly body bushings. Got the drivers side all apart, and the bushings put in the way I think they go. Ran into some issues, once I lowered the drivers side back down, the body wasn't even touching the bushing (bushings 3 and 4 from the front counting back).

I don't know if I am confused, or if I am just stupid. Was trying to get this thing together for this coming weekends trip. So if you guys have any suggestions, let me know please.

Oh and yes that .5" white block is part of the kit that 4Crawler sent me, not sure where it fits in to the body bushing kit exactly.

I ordered a 2" BL from 4crawler a long time ago, and I looked into the poly bushings. If i remember correctly they are considerably smaller than the factory rubber bushings. This leads 4crawler to send you a .5" Body lift when you order their bumper because they have to make up for that difference in height in the bushings with something other wise the tolerances would be to small around the tranny engine etc.

This however is not an issue when you order a body lift as well from them because they compensate for it when they cut it and send it to you without you having to think about it.

I'm not really sure what you can do in this situation but I figured I could pass on what I remembered.

 

[jstim]

I ordered a 2" BL from 4crawler a long time ago, and I looked into the poly bushings. If i remember correctly they are considerably smaller than the factory rubber bushings. This leads 4crawler to send you a .5" Body lift when you order their bumper because they have to make up for that difference in height in the bushings with something other wise the tolerances would be to small around the tranny engine etc.

This however is not an issue when you order a body lift as well from them because they compensate for it when they cut it and send it to you without you having to think about it.

I'm not really sure what you can do in this situation but I figured I could pass on what I remembered.

Its ok, after it is all said and done, I am getting rid of the body lift and the poly bushing kit.

 

[jstim]

So I decided I am not going to put on my body lift, I don't really think I need it anymore. I wheeled all weekend last weekend without any major issues, and so have decided to get rid of the 1.5" body lift I have.

As well as I don't like how the poly body kit from 4crawler goes on, so I will be needing to get rid of that too.

For the downside. Yesterday was doing some post wheeling maintenance. Changing out the gear oil in the rear diff with some Royal Purple, and it needed it.
Drained the transfer case to do the same, and put the drain plug back in and through some lack of better judgement, or confusion since I was looking at the torque specs on the calipers earlier, over tightened the drain plug. I did it SO awesomely that I cracked the rear half of the transfer case by the drain plug.

So I am taking another transfer case apart to replace the cracked back half, and I need to find some time to get it back together. Debating on taking it to someone so they can put it back together while I am at work.

Anyone have any thoughts?

Still trying to get the fill plug out of the front diff too, soaking it in PB like that ish is free.

 

[jstim]

To bring everyone back up to speed.

I haven't been doing much with it lately. Finally got around to changing the oil, and the fuel filter this weekend.

Oil seemed like it was almost a quart and a half low, seemed pretty odd. Can't tell if the rear main seal is starting to leak or not. I am hoping not. I use Mobil 1 high mileage 5W-30 and a quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. Its always worked well for me in the past, so I hope that isn't the culprit.

Fuel filter was good, no really dirty fuel coming out of the lines. However you can tell that throttle response has smoothed out a bit, and feel like it responds a bit better. It was real easy too, I would recommend it on the maintenance list.

I bit the bullet, and bought a new set of tires this weekend too. Put 4 new General Grabber AT2 165/75/16s on it. The 285's just rubbed the frame a bit, and I really don't think I want to add a body lift and spacers. (That looks to be the most common setup with others running the 285's) So no more rubbing, but I have a set of tires that I need to get rid of with about 3k ish on them.

I don't really want to change that rear main seal, because I don't have the time or the tools to do it. Unfortunately getting any quality work around where I am at is asking a lot apparently. So, I don't know, don't really want to sell it after I have put all this work into it......we will see what happens I guess.

What do you guys think I should do with it?

 

[Loubaru]

To bring everyone back up to speed.

I haven't been doing much with it lately. Finally got around to changing the oil, and the fuel filter this weekend.

Oil seemed like it was almost a quart and a half low, seemed pretty odd. Can't tell if the rear main seal is starting to leak or not. I am hoping not. I use Mobil 1 high mileage 5W-30 and a quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. Its always worked well for me in the past, so I hope that isn't the culprit.

Fuel filter was good, no really dirty fuel coming out of the lines. However you can tell that throttle response has smoothed out a bit, and feel like it responds a bit better. It was real easy too, I would recommend it on the maintenance list.

I bit the bullet, and bought a new set of tires this weekend too. Put 4 new General Grabber AT2 165/75/16s on it. The 285's just rubbed the frame a bit, and I really don't think I want to add a body lift and spacers. (That looks to be the most common setup with others running the 285's) So no more rubbing, but I have a set of tires that I need to get rid of with about 3k ish on them.

I don't really want to change that rear main seal, because I don't have the time or the tools to do it. Unfortunately getting any quality work around where I am at is asking a lot apparently. So, I don't know, don't really want to sell it after I have put all this work into it......we will see what happens I guess.

What do you guys think I should do with it?

Are you sure the rear main is leaking? IE, is their oil on the ground? I'm not a fan of any M1 30w oil (their XW-40 is good though) from my Subaru days. The stuff breaks down very quickly, is known for consumption on turbo motors, and has a fairly low viscosity for a 30W even when brand new. If I were you I'd try changing oil brands next change before assuming something else is wrong. For off the shelf oil I've had good luck with Pennzoil synthetic on "normal" cars (use it on my wifes TSX, my 4Runner, and all my old DD's before I had a work car) and Shell Rotella synthetic on high performance/turbo cars.