Catbus build thread

Finally got around to installing the gauge pods and doing some wiring. Had to relocate the 1/0 wire from the main harness grommet going through the wire wall to another hole that I had to drill out and put a grommet in. All gauges are wired up behind the pillar, but still need to do the final connections. All power and grounds are keyed power except for the oil pressure, which will be to lights.

Will need to come back and clean up the voltmeter install, but for now, it's in place.

Additional wiring is for the front camera and tucked in microphone for the handsfree.

I won't get around to doing the clean final installation until I can finish powering up the gauges and making sure everything works. Unfortunately the oil pressure and fuel pressure won't be until after the engine swap.

Last picture is of what it looks like from the drivers seat, when the final install happens, it'll tuck in and won't stick out so far.

FYI, CEL is from a bad knock sensor harness.
 

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Went back through the flex a lite controller wiring, talked w/ their tech support, found out that I was missing a power wire. Fans kick on and off now at the the temp that I want them too (200F). My temp fix of tricking it to turn on freed up a keyed power that I was able to route to the rear camera. Now I can take that toggle switch and put it under the hood and use it as a manual switch for the under hood lights.

Both cameras are up and running on wifi and keyed power. Now I just have to figure out the android app so that I can run both at the same time.
 
Transmission

Marlin HD tranny showed up today.
 

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Cleaning garage

Don't need the spare chassis in the garage anymore, time to make room for the final chapter of the engine build.

Decided to go with stock intake for engine break-in.
 

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17 stock sized injectors dropped off at race shop for cleaning and matching.
 

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Headers

FYI, THY-507-C Thorley Headers are not a direct fit for pre 99 4runners. You have to cut off the collector and weld in a universal flange that comes with the kit. The flange is .2" bigger opening than the stock piping.
 
Post swap thoughts

Engine and transmission swap completed.

New engine is very quite, barely vibrates at idle. AFR is below 14, but staying above 11. If I decide to adjust the tuning w/ the mapecu I'll need to figure out a way to keep the ECU powered so that it doesn't re-learn w/ different settings.

Marlin transmission, flywheel, HD clutch, and short throw is impressive. Insert something tight analogy here, and you've described this transmission compared the the old one.

Had a few run ins with problems, thank fully I had a spare set of injectors that I had cleaned and they all flowed the same (brown injectors).

New 170 thermostat wasn't flowing very much at the startup, engine warmed up to 204. Thought maybe the water pump had air in it. Pulled the thermostat out of the old motor, cut the spring off and tossed it into the new motor. Engine is staying around 140 degrees now. Winter is starting to push in, swapping back to the 170 now that there is water fully in the block.

A few days later, was getting onto interstate and the CEL turned on. It was a VSS code, could be from the sensor that is broken on the side of the transmission that I forgot to replacing. Ordering a new one next week. Clearned the code, hasn't turned back on.

The next day, CEL came on, P0330. Cleared the code, and it stayed off for awhile. Cleared it again on the way home. New OEM sensors and wiring harness, keeping an eye on the AFR if it turns on again. Last time I noticed that it was at 14.3, so not quite for sure why it turned on. Could be bad gas? After the engine swap I had to stop for gas during the hour drive home. Another thought is that I ditched the harmonic balancer for a underdog crank pulley.

A few minor things to take care of, then it should be a completely new vehicle.
Alignment after the new icon UCA's, new u joints, front and rear driveshafts.

I'm sure there's more, but still stuck on the P0330 code. Worse case, I buy an aftermarket knock sensor, use a MAPECU analog out to send a voltage to the ECU, tricking it into thinking the stock ones are working. Have to get this figured out before spring when the SC goes on.
 

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