Big thanks to everyone in this thread. Just did the diff and transfer case fluids. Everything went smoothly. Was afraid the front differential bolts would be a pain with living in the rust belt, but they came out easily. I did jack up the front end slightly to loosen the bolts, then lowered it back down to drain and fill.
Changing Differential & Transfer Case Fluids - Pics Included
- Thread starter snowbizx
- Start date
earthrealm
Senior Member
gr8 thread! it appears more v8 owners change their fluids......few v6 owners on this thread..or am i missing something?. i know the v8 being alltime 4wd sees the 4wd system doing more work/thus the fluids needing change more
Great post. I did the oil change recently on my 4Runner and had a huge problem with the front diff drain plug. It was seized so badly that I rounded it with the hex. I tried several days spaying it and hammer/chisel .
Then I drove to the shop to weld a hex key to the socket .. but they refused being afraid that oil could burn in the heating process.
Came back to the garage and tried again to loose the plug with a chisel and a hammer. I finally succeeded. Here is the picture of the tools.
Do you guys check the oil level some time after replacing? If yes do you use new gaskets for fill plugs again?
Then I drove to the shop to weld a hex key to the socket .. but they refused being afraid that oil could burn in the heating process.
Came back to the garage and tried again to loose the plug with a chisel and a hammer. I finally succeeded. Here is the picture of the tools.
Do you guys check the oil level some time after replacing? If yes do you use new gaskets for fill plugs again?
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BillyBoost
New member
Picked up the fluid yesterday and ordered all new drain and fill plugs with new crush washers today. Great thread.
Thank you,
Bill
Thank you,
Bill
BillyBoost
New member
Just did all the oil change along with the transfer case, front and rear diff. All went very smooth.
Bill
BRUIN8124
New member
Anyone?
guiltyxxspark
New member
Should be the same.
WOLVERINE
New member
I just completed this for my 04 Sport V8 - 75w90 Amsoil Severe Gear in front, rear and transfer case - I've done this on 3 other Tacomas over the period of 4-5 years and this is the first time I've had to deal with a stripped front differential bolt. I noticed that all three had fluid matching in color and viscosity - the front drain bolt had the most metal shavings on the bolt magnet - in the Tacomas the front differential and transfer case are normally clean - the full time 4WD on my Runner must be working good. 
My advice is to use "Penetrating Oil" specifically, if on no other bolts do this on the front differential drain bolt, and tap the bolt with a ball and peen or drilling hammer a few times. I used WD40 and no tapping and an already worn front differential drain bolt was stripped. It was definitely torqued at 48lbs + by the previous person who changed the fluids.
To remove this stripped 10mm allen bolt, I simply tapped with a hammer after soaking with Penetrating Oil for 1 hr, used the chisel the make a slit - 2 taps with the hammer and then the cold punch was inserted into the slit and tapped repeatedly, counterclockwise, until the bolt broke free (5-7 taps).
I would also recommend using new crush washers as most others have also suggested, all of my fill plugs had completely flat crush washers - they're only $1.XX to change - do it!
I did use a 10mm allen socket but I also had my 10mm allen wrench handy as I would normally use this to tighten the front differential bolts back down prior to torquing.
My advice is to use "Penetrating Oil" specifically, if on no other bolts do this on the front differential drain bolt, and tap the bolt with a ball and peen or drilling hammer a few times. I used WD40 and no tapping and an already worn front differential drain bolt was stripped. It was definitely torqued at 48lbs + by the previous person who changed the fluids.
To remove this stripped 10mm allen bolt, I simply tapped with a hammer after soaking with Penetrating Oil for 1 hr, used the chisel the make a slit - 2 taps with the hammer and then the cold punch was inserted into the slit and tapped repeatedly, counterclockwise, until the bolt broke free (5-7 taps).
I would also recommend using new crush washers as most others have also suggested, all of my fill plugs had completely flat crush washers - they're only $1.XX to change - do it!
I did use a 10mm allen socket but I also had my 10mm allen wrench handy as I would normally use this to tighten the front differential bolts back down prior to torquing.
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trickbiker121
New member
I just went to the dealer to get all the plugs and washers. It seems like that the Transfer case Fill and drain Gasket Part# 90430-18008 has been superseded with 90430-A0003. Also my dealer mentioned that the gear oil is 85w90 but most of you are using 75w90. It might of been a mistake by the Parts guy.
Thinking about trying this on my own at home. Never had any experience doing so.
Whats the purpose in buying all the gaskets and plugs? Is it not a matter of removing the cap, empty the fluid and put it back on?
Adumb
New member
The gaskets are crush gaskets so they are supposed to be one time use.
Follow the tutorial and you'll do fine. Hardest part is getting the fluid into the fill port.
Walk into the Toyota parts department with these part drain/filler/plugs numbers and ask for the three different types of fluids?
And I guess a bottle pump can be bought at auto parts store?
Adumb
New member
Personally I would only replace the plugs if it looks like they've been rounded off. Otherwise just gaskets. I tried doing the fluid before getting a bottle pump, don't do that. Definitely get a bottle pump, haha.
Lol thanks!
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