Changing Differential & Transfer Case Fluids - Pics Included
- Thread starter snowbizx
- Start date
LittleMulePepe
New member
Great writeup - updates
Thanks for this writeup. Clean and concise. FYI, the part number 90430-18008 has been replaced with part number 90430-A0003. Prices at my local dealer for crush washers were as follows:
12157-10010: $3.01
90430-24003 $4.06
90430-12031 $2.38
90430-A0003 $3.57
Amazon sells Royal Purple Max Gear 75W-90 in 6-packs for $83.77, which works out to just under $14 a quart. That is a big savings over $19.66 for singles. Note, you will need to buy a single since 7 qts needed overall.
You will need to remove the skid plate to access the front differential, and the tip to remove the spare tire to access the rear diff was spot-on. Definitely get yourself some penetrating oil! Use your torqure wrench, mine were WAY over-torqued. Not good.
Thanks for this writeup. Clean and concise. FYI, the part number 90430-18008 has been replaced with part number 90430-A0003. Prices at my local dealer for crush washers were as follows:
12157-10010: $3.01
90430-24003 $4.06
90430-12031 $2.38
90430-A0003 $3.57
Amazon sells Royal Purple Max Gear 75W-90 in 6-packs for $83.77, which works out to just under $14 a quart. That is a big savings over $19.66 for singles. Note, you will need to buy a single since 7 qts needed overall.
You will need to remove the skid plate to access the front differential, and the tip to remove the spare tire to access the rear diff was spot-on. Definitely get yourself some penetrating oil! Use your torqure wrench, mine were WAY over-torqued. Not good.
MountainsRcalling
New member
Thanks for a great write up!
The dealership quoted me $408 to replace fluids on the front and rear diff and transfer case. I spent approximately $100 in crush gaskets, mobile 1 fluid, and renting a bay to get her up on a lift. My biggest issues was breaking off two bolts on the front skid plate (turned out they were completely seized and had to get drilled out). Other than that everything went pretty smooth. I sprayed PB Blaster on the bolts I could get to the evening before and again in the bay. Was worried about all of the rust (see pic) stripping my bolt and after gently trying with the 24mm, followed the advice on this forum and used the 15/16 which worked like a charm! I will replace the bolt next time I change the fluids. Appreciate the great write up!
The dealership quoted me $408 to replace fluids on the front and rear diff and transfer case. I spent approximately $100 in crush gaskets, mobile 1 fluid, and renting a bay to get her up on a lift. My biggest issues was breaking off two bolts on the front skid plate (turned out they were completely seized and had to get drilled out). Other than that everything went pretty smooth. I sprayed PB Blaster on the bolts I could get to the evening before and again in the bay. Was worried about all of the rust (see pic) stripping my bolt and after gently trying with the 24mm, followed the advice on this forum and used the 15/16 which worked like a charm! I will replace the bolt next time I change the fluids. Appreciate the great write up!
Attachments
ZebRuaj
New member
Use a BFH. Or a long breaker bar. Or your floor jack handle + the wrench. Anything that'll help multiple your impact force to loosen the bolt.
Berty_K
Member
Just did it. Used a 6 point socket and gave my wrench a few solid smacks with a 5 lb dumbell. Cracked open the plug pretty easily.
I probably used something closer to 4 quarts, used new crush gaskets, put on some anti-seize, and torqued that baby to spec.
Just for stats...
Just did my first rear differential oil change at 24k miles (off-roading, towing, 4.5 y.o.) - to have peace of mind.
Only 2320ml of oil came out. My finger (after I opened the filling hole) hardly reached the oil level (the oil was warm). The differential was always clean and dry outside, no leaks noticed, so I had assumed that the rest (min 2600-2320=280ml, max 2700-2320=380ml) was in-between the gears and on the walls (if 2600-2700 ml supposed to be filled on the factory).
I was able to fill ~2450, then closed the plug, warmed by rotating wheels for some time, and after that was able to fill additional ~50ml, so 2500ml in total went in.
So, appeared I missed 180 (=2500-2320) at least, if not 280ml, from the normal amount.
The oil was dark (sorry for the photos through non transparent jug: I forgot to make it initially, and now I'm lazy to put it back into the pan to demonstrate the deposits, then clean the pan again etc), hopefully it is visible. The magnet contained a lot of small metal particles, a small pile, and one peace was 9mm long (round as a coin). As you can see - there is a black sludge of possibly metal deposits. So, I'm happy that I'd decided to change it so early (my mechanic had said: only after 70k km = 43k miles which I could not withstand).
Just did my first rear differential oil change at 24k miles (off-roading, towing, 4.5 y.o.) - to have peace of mind.
Only 2320ml of oil came out. My finger (after I opened the filling hole) hardly reached the oil level (the oil was warm). The differential was always clean and dry outside, no leaks noticed, so I had assumed that the rest (min 2600-2320=280ml, max 2700-2320=380ml) was in-between the gears and on the walls (if 2600-2700 ml supposed to be filled on the factory).
I was able to fill ~2450, then closed the plug, warmed by rotating wheels for some time, and after that was able to fill additional ~50ml, so 2500ml in total went in.
So, appeared I missed 180 (=2500-2320) at least, if not 280ml, from the normal amount.
The oil was dark (sorry for the photos through non transparent jug: I forgot to make it initially, and now I'm lazy to put it back into the pan to demonstrate the deposits, then clean the pan again etc), hopefully it is visible. The magnet contained a lot of small metal particles, a small pile, and one peace was 9mm long (round as a coin). As you can see - there is a black sludge of possibly metal deposits. So, I'm happy that I'd decided to change it so early (my mechanic had said: only after 70k km = 43k miles which I could not withstand).
Last edited:
grave
Senior Member
this may be a dumb question, but, are these are prices per washer or for the total number of washers needed? i know a couple of each kind are needed... partznet has them listed at these prices.
12157-10010: $1.10ea (need 3)
90430-24003 $1.46ea (need 1)
90430-A0003 $1.28ea (need 2)
after shipping it comes out to $16 for me. if the prices you listed were per washer, that's pricey. if it's for the total of all six needed, then i'll head to the dealer. thanks for posting!
ben550
New member
the amazon has a kit with all the washers for $9.28 and free 2 day shipping (Prime)
Look up "Genuine Toyota Gasket Kit for Transfer and Differential Service"
Silver4RunnerIS300
Member
This is what I did. Worked.
Bravo Kilo
New member
Great thread! I followed the directions in the original post with little to no problems. I'm sitting at 105K miles and planned on doing it at the 120K point. A few days ago, I was chatting with the previous owner and found out that he had never changed ANY of the diff or transfer case fluids. When I changed them today, I fully expected the worst and black nasty fluids. I was surprised to see that after 105,000 miles, the lube in both differentials and the transfer case looked almost new!!! Shocked to say the least. There was a bit of sludge on both magnets, but overall everything looked great. Needless to say, we wont be waiting that long for the next change......
For those who have torqued your plugs, what torque value did you use for the front differential drain plug? The guide in the original post says 48 ft/lbs, but my Chilton manual says 29 ft/lbs for both the front drain and fill plugs. Thanks in advance!
For those who have torqued your plugs, what torque value did you use for the front differential drain plug? The guide in the original post says 48 ft/lbs, but my Chilton manual says 29 ft/lbs for both the front drain and fill plugs. Thanks in advance!
pattycakes
New member
99 % of the time people strip the fill and drain plugs is because they don't have the socket on square .
\
if you look at the end of a socket they are beveled for a few mm and the plugs are so short there is not much grabbing on maybe 2-3 mm total especially if they are corroded and have been worked on a lot and are a bit worn , also the best way of freeing them is to hold socket on firmly and square with one hand and slap the ratchet with other hand not just put it on and pull on rachet because it will angle itself off and round off bolt head on it especially if using a socket what has a beveled end .
I took a 15/16 6pt and ground it down until it was into the actual socket area . and use this for plugs , as for the front drain I use antisizee on the threads and torque to 45 never have problems getting it out . Make sure you tap the (correct size) Allen head socket in with hammer all the way first before trying to remove the front drain.
Pic of the beveled edge i speak of , grind a 6 pt socket nice and square until that bevel disappears , much less chance of rounding plug head
\
if you look at the end of a socket they are beveled for a few mm and the plugs are so short there is not much grabbing on maybe 2-3 mm total especially if they are corroded and have been worked on a lot and are a bit worn , also the best way of freeing them is to hold socket on firmly and square with one hand and slap the ratchet with other hand not just put it on and pull on rachet because it will angle itself off and round off bolt head on it especially if using a socket what has a beveled end .
I took a 15/16 6pt and ground it down until it was into the actual socket area . and use this for plugs , as for the front drain I use antisizee on the threads and torque to 45 never have problems getting it out . Make sure you tap the (correct size) Allen head socket in with hammer all the way first before trying to remove the front drain.
Pic of the beveled edge i speak of , grind a 6 pt socket nice and square until that bevel disappears , much less chance of rounding plug head
Attachments
Last edited:
theoutbackdream
New member
Thanks for that!
Just wondering, is there a pretty good consensus on what brand our 4runners like, in terms of fluids?
Coming from a WRX, it ONLY liked Amsoil or Motul 300...
Just wondering, is there a pretty good consensus on what brand our 4runners like, in terms of fluids?
Coming from a WRX, it ONLY liked Amsoil or Motul 300...
Silver4RunnerIS300
Member
No... Just whatever you decide to use really. People have their preferences.
Bumbo
New member
Its just gear oil... use whatever you can find for a good price. Just change it regularly.
I use Valvoline from Autozone and a lot of MOC gear oil recently because that's what my friend gives me from their dealership... which isn't Toyota branded or anything, but that's what they use so if its good enough for a Toyota dealer, its good enough for me.
Last edited:
theoutbackdream
New member
Got it. Thanks for that info.
I don't know. people say gear oil is just gear oil, but when I tried Valvoline and redline gear oil in my WRX, it made shifting hard... Went back to Amsoil and Motul, and it was extremely smooth.
Similar threads
