Chuckles' 98 Manual SR5 4Runner

More Driveway Articulation

Hitch looks great!

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This will make towing, using the hitch-hauler, and bike racks better. I can't believe how low these hitches are. Good mod for sure. Although the hitch was not designed to flip, it's super beefy and should be good for 2000 pounds or less in the trailer.

This truck has really turned into a pretty cool ride. Can't wait to get the nearly new front seats!!!

Stephen :party:
 
Front Mud Flaps/ Inner Fender Shield

I made some mud flaps and the driver's side fender shield out of some $10 walmart floor mats.

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Creative front mud flap idea. I need to figure something out for that

Just make sure they aren't going to be caught in the tire and you should be good. I just cut out small circles and put screws into the plastic inner fender pieces. I haven't tried them out yet though.
 
I really like the LED light idea. I've been thinking about doing something like that for a while now. Could you possibly list the switch, fuse, wires, etc. that you used? I just don't want to go out and order the wrong stuff to get the project done or blow out the lights with the wrong fuse and wires.

Thanks in advance
Matt
 
I really like the LED light idea. I've been thinking about doing something like that for a while now. Could you possibly list the switch, fuse, wires, etc. that you used? I just don't want to go out and order the wrong stuff to get the project done or blow out the lights with the wrong fuse and wires.

Thanks in advance
Matt

I ordered these LEDs: http://www.amazon.com/Zone-Tech-Fle...UTF8&qid=1418789316&sr=1-1&keywords=led+strip. The ones at Walmart in a 2 pack are $19 and these (4 pack) are $7, so it's a great deal.

I used some 20ish gauge wire I had laying around to extend the wires. I just soldered the ends of the wires to the contacts on the back of the dome light. There isn't much draw from the LEDs. That way, they are controlled from the same switch as the factory dome light.

Hope this helps!

Edit: The wire was similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/20ga-Red-Blac...im_auto_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=0Q1ASF5316E5GYYD9QMB
 
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I ordered these LEDs: http://www.amazon.com/Zone-Tech-Fle...UTF8&qid=1418789316&sr=1-1&keywords=led+strip. The ones at Walmart in a 2 pack are $19 and these (4 pack) are $7, so it's a great deal.

I used some 20ish gauge wire I had laying around to extend the wires. I just soldered the ends of the wires to the contacts on the back of the dome light. There isn't much draw from the LEDs. That way, they are controlled from the same switch as the factory dome light.

Hope this helps!

Edit: The wire was similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/20ga-Red-Blac...im_auto_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=0Q1ASF5316E5GYYD9QMB


Thanks for your help. So since you ran them to the dome light do they only turn on when you open up the trunk door? Or turn the switch to the on?

I most likely will run them to another switch so I can turn them on when I want. So I guess I'll just have to find a fuse to use, along with a cheap switch.
 
Thanks for your help. So since you ran them to the dome light do they only turn on when you open up the trunk door? Or turn the switch to the on?

I most likely will run them to another switch so I can turn them on when I want. So I guess I'll just have to find a fuse to use, along with a cheap switch.

They come on with the hatch open and it's set to "door" and if I put the switch to "on". Are you wanting to come all the way from the battery?
 
I don't think it's necessary to run all the way from the battery. There must be somewhere where I can tap in for some power and then just run a switch next to the switch for my light bar. But if it's to much work then I might just run it to the dome light and call it a day.
 
I don't think it's necessary to run all the way from the battery. There must be somewhere where I can tap in for some power and then just run a switch next to the switch for my light bar. But if it's to much work then I might just run it to the dome light and call it a day.

If yours has the rear power outlet, that would be a good line to tap in to because it is the only thing on a 15 amp (i think) fuse. A jumper in the fuse box would make it full time power too.
 
If yours has the rear power outlet, that would be a good line to tap in to because it is the only thing on a 15 amp (i think) fuse. A jumper in the fuse box would make it full time power too.


I don't have a rear power outlet as it is a base model. I guess I'll have to think about where to tap in and whether or not I want to go through the pain staking task of running wire all the way to the front just for a switch.
 
I don't have a rear power outlet as it is a base model. I guess I'll have to think about where to tap in and whether or not I want to go through the pain staking task of running wire all the way to the front just for a switch.

I guess you could tap in to the wire leading to the dome light. That would be constant- on. How's the cup holder thing going btw?
 
That's true! I wish there was a easy way to run it to the middle dome light so that when the doors opened, the lights would also turn on. That's what I would really like. The prototype is all done, I just have to get it mounted in the truck, which I plan on doing this Thursday as we have a half day of school.
 
That's true! I wish there was a easy way to run it to the middle dome light so that when the doors opened, the lights would also turn on. That's what I would really like. The prototype is all done, I just have to get it mounted in the truck, which I plan on doing this Thursday as we have a half day of school.

That would be a pain pulling down the headliner. I have no idea where the wires run from to go to the center dome light. Well, good luck!
 
Order List

Here are a few things I'm about to order.

Air Lift 1000
Amazon.com: AIR LIFT 60743 1000 Series Rear Air Spring Kit: Automotive




After seeing Scalded_Dawg's rock lights and how bright they are, I will be getting some for auxilary reverse lights mounted on the rear bumper and extra lights on the front. The front will be like Dirtco's amber lights under the headlights except these are for DRLs/ parking lights dpending on how bright they are.

Wire:
Amazon.com: Grand General 55220 Black 18-Gauge Primary Wire: Automotive

Amazon.com: Grand General 55221 Red 18-Gauge Primary Wire: Automotive

In-line Fuse:
Amazon.com : Scosche 0400ATCFH16-5 ATC Fuse Holder 16 Gauge 5 Pack : Automotive Fuse Holders : Car Electronics

Switches:
Amazon.com: New Car Truck Rocker Toggle LED Switch Blue Light On-off Control 12V 6pc: Automotive

The LED Lights:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVMRS6O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Should be about $35 for the lights.




LED Lights
Licence Plate Lights- both mine are burnt out- these are cheap dim ones. Hopefully they are just enough for me to not get pulled over.
194 LED Bulb - 1 LED Wedge Base | Instrument Cluster & Gauge LED Lights | LED Car Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs

Dome Lights- even my new incandecent ones are dim, so hopefully these will preform better.
DE3175 LED Bulb - 4 SMD LED Festoon | Festoon Base LED Bulbs | LED Car Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs

A/C control lights- these are cheaper than the incandecents at advance auto.
74 LED Bulb - 3 SMD LED Wide Angle Wedge Base | Instrument Cluster & Gauge LED Lights | LED Car Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs
About $23 with shipping




Vinyl floor kit- I don't know if I want black or beige.
Toyota 4Runner Molded Carpet or Vinyl-- 4Runner Carpet
About $190 with shipping
 
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Mud flaps work great! They don't flap in the wind- that makes me happy.

I'm thinking about buying this cheapie light bar instead of the small LEDs. The plan is to mount it on the spoiler or somethere on the bumper where it won't get ripped off with my hardcore wheeling :pound:
 
Yotas at School

Saw two Desert Dunes out the window before school started this morning. There's about nine 3rd gen 4Runners at my school- all Desert Dune except 2 white ones. There's also two 2nd gens. Plenty of Tacos and old Xtra Cabs too.

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