Compiled: FJ Springs Lift Info for 4th gen

Thanks PJ,

Well, I drove around the block and nothing fell off. I owe it all to you guys. Thanks so much for helping me do this lift. This was the first time I ever cranked a wrench, and definitely not my last. My son will be stoked.

PS,

My new favorite sound is the clicking of my torque wrench when finishing. Feeling accomplished. Mahaloz again
 

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Thanks PJ,

Well, I drove around the block and nothing fell off. I owe it all to you guys. Thanks so much for helping me do this lift. This was the first time I ever cranked a wrench, and definitely not my last. My son will be stoked.

PS,

My new favorite sound is the clicking of my torque wrench when finishing. Feeling accomplished. Mahaloz again
That's a sexy runner!
 
Thanks PJ,

Well, I drove around the block and nothing fell off. I owe it all to you guys. Thanks so much for helping me do this lift. This was the first time I ever cranked a wrench, and definitely not my last. My son will be stoked.

PS,

My new favorite sound is the clicking of my torque wrench when finishing. Feeling accomplished. Mahaloz again
What kind of wheels are those?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
 
you could resize that schematic and repost it? Im about to tackle the lift myself and that diagram would be helpful. Thanks
If you search for bilstein 5100 installation order about a dozen different ones pop up. It's really basic really.
 
A shop in Chicago is quoting me 900 for the following labor only job:

1. Front lower ball joint
2. Front suspension(coil and strut)
3. Cv axle

I've sourced the parts myself and just needed some mechanical help. Is this a good price? I've watched videos and it does seem like a big job but thought it would be cost effective to get all those items done at once. What do you guys think? Is it fair?
 
Houston we have a problem!! So when I put tires on and did take a slow drive to the store down my block, didn't notice this till tonight. Both sides are the same. It looks like the top shock bolts are just touching. No noises or anything on the drive, but I also didn't go over any bumps or drive over 20mph. I will investigate and research tonight to see what I did wrong. But hey, at least I'm consistent with both sides :) will work it out in the morning. Thanks again y'all!

Good morning y'all! I'm gunna finish this right quick!! This was the problem, I've got it on jacks and took center bolt out and this is what was on top. Which one is which? And do you think I need to take the entire coil/shock to fix? I will attach another picture of what it looks like under after this one.
 

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It's upside down, but you get my drift.

In all honesty, it really doesn't matter the washer and bushings once you change your shocks vs what or how many were there stock. What does matter in the front and rear shock mounts is that there is a large washer on top of the welded on bolt of the shock then your bushing, attachment to vehicle, then bushing and large washer then your nut. Front attachment is the top hat which is in the strut bucket and rear is attached to the frame. The image I posted previously applies to both front and back though that was specific for front, same order: shock, washer, bushing, attachment point, bushing, washer, and nut. Try to use matching bushings and washers and you should be good to go following this sequence. I believe the rear stock shock used another washer before the attachment point, but that is unnecessary.
 
You need to take the whole assembly back out, that smaller washer goes on the shock first, then a rubber bushing and tophst, then the rubber bushing in your pic and finally the larger washer on top
 
I guess they put wrong washer underneath? if they did this, would that be the reason the weight while on ground pushed shock bolt up to the car well in my initial pic? I'll take shock off now and have a look
 
I guess they put wrong washer underneath? if they did this, would that be the reason the weight while on ground pushed shock bolt up to the car well in my initial pic? I'll take shock off now and have a look

Based on your picture I don't even see a nut, there needs to be a nut before that washer to prevent the shock from just sliding up and down.
 
That's what I was looking for....shoot, I don't even have a nut!! I got to call the shop that compressed coils and see what's up. If I need to get replacement, what size do I need. Thanks again guys, once I get this done, I'll leave y'all alone. And if anybody is considering that they can't do this install after reading the last couple of pages you'll know you can do it with all you guys as well thanks again
 
I don't think you need a nut, it should be built into the shock already.

Your shock was pushing through the bushings because you didn't have the lower washer on to stop it. You had both washers above the tophats.

Take it out, assemble it like the picture on the last two pages shows and reinstall using the no spring compressor method. You'll be good
 
Hey guys

Just got all my suspension parts, 5100 f/r, acdelco FJ coils f/r, daystar 1.5" rear spacer. I want to assemble the fronts now to save some time later. Which way do I have to clock the spring perches on each front shock, or does that vary for each vehicle/coil count? I saw a video where the coil could potentially contact the hub carrier if not clocked in the right position
 
Well, brought my 4Runner in for alignment this morning after installing my goodies, and the mechanic had a heck of a time with gettin r done. He said the inner tie rods are gonzo and could not hold for crap, so He recommends getting 2 new inner tie rods. They could not get the parts delivered in time to repair and align. So bummed. I can get Import Direct for $39 bucks each. Said it would be 1.4 hours @ $160.93 and then alighn for free. He's my neighbor who manages a shop in town. So now I have to wait till Monday. Ugh!! :ybrick:
 

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