To clarify, a CANbus would be needed for the high beams as well if they are the daytime running lights. With this setup, the DRL would be on at full power.
- Danny
Let me clear it up as some people (including LEB Bulbs sellers) don't understand or misuse "CANBUS" terminology.
In some cars (modern equipped with fancy electronics) there are systems to detect burned bulb. Most systems check the continuity to ground "probing" bulbs with different current or voltage. Incandescent bulbs used in cars have very low resistance (few ohms) so the low current or low voltage "probing" does not turn on the bulb but is easy to detect as high resistance (or open circuit) by the system. Again, it has nothing to do with CANBUS as it is simple "burned bulb detection" not a "network communication".
To "cheat" the burned bulb detection system some car LED bulbs advertised as "CANBUS compatible" have a 100-150ohm resistor parallel with the bulb. While at low voltage (burned bulb detection system probing signal) LED is visible as open circuit, the resistor is seen as continuity. Just remember, that at 12V this resistor is a "dead weight" and added source of heat for the bulb. So if your car does not have burned bulb detection system avaid buying "CANBUS compatible" bulbs. They perform worse than bulbs not equipped with "CANBUS resistor".
So while our trucks have CANBUS (which is a way of communicating between different ECUs in a car) it does not mean we have "burned bulb detection systems". I may be wrong (please correct me if I am) but none of 5th generation lighting circuits are equipped with burned bulb detection system. All bulbs are simple turned on by relays or dimmers (puddle light and dome light).
There are two exceptions:
1. Blinkers are using simple method of measuring the current taken by bulbs (method used since 50-ths last century). If the current taken by the bulb (or set of bulbs connected to one side) is less than current taken by incandescent bulb the flasher unit (not ECU) will make the rapid flashing instead of normal 60-90 cycles per minute. It is known as "hyper-flashing" designed to bring driver's attention to the problem (and Police in some states or countries, as "hyper-flashing" is not legal). "CANBUS LED bulbs" do not make "hyper-flashing"go away. The only way to fix it is either connect a resistor (or bulb or any current draw device) parallel with blinker LED bulb so the flasher sees the "normal" current taken by the bulb. Other way to deal with the problem is to change the flasher for "LED compatible" one. As far as I know, nobody sales such flasher for 5th gen 4Runner so regardless how much I hate the 6ohm "resistor" solution it is the only possible options for us. Unfortunately.
2. In 5.5 gen 4Runers (2014+ models) the high beam bub is used also as a DRL (stupid IMHO). The high beam relay circuit (it is actually electronic circuit, not just a relay) turns high beam at lower power for DRL function. I don't know if it is lower voltage or PWM circuit but either way it messes up with LED or HID bulb internal circuits. It makes them either not working at all or going into flashing. There is no known solution to that, as I have not seen high power car LED bulbs capable of running in dual power mode or simple "dimming mode" (or I am wrong about it if Xenon Depot "CANBUS bulbs" can do that). The only known to me solution is DRL relocation. In short it is disabling the original DRL system (cutting some wires is required) and adding your own system.
My solution (I have 2012 model with DRL in blinkers, which is even more stupid than having it in high beams) was to cut DRL wire going to flasher and replacing original fog lamps with OSRAM LED DRL/FOG lamp combo. Guys with off-road front bumpers have more options as they can put separate DRL lamps on that bumper.