Crank shaft pulley bolt - HELP!!!

knothead

New member
How in the world do you break the bolt loose? I am going crazy. I made a tool to hold the pulley but cant break the bolt loose. Torn apart and stuck.
 
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I was able to brake my crankshaft pulley bolt loose with a 1/2in ratchet on the bolt and a 3-4 foot metal breaker bar. Pulley holder was long enough to hit the ground and hold. I believe the breaker bar was from a friend's old chain link fence
 
How torn apart? As long as the starter is still hooked up, put a breaker bar on the pulley bolt as close to the bottom of the passenger frame rail as you can. Then pull the ignition wire and turn bump the starter real quick with the ignition. It'll break it loose.
 
Well I got the bolt out. Just threw caution to the wind and used 3' cheater bar along with my 1/2 inch breaker bar. Yea. Now I am trying to take the pulley off:ybrick:
 
Well I got the bolt out. Just threw caution to the wind and used 3' cheater bar along with my 1/2 inch breaker bar.

Good call.

I can't tell you how many stories I've heard from fellow Mechanics, and even a few I fixed for people back in my consumer car repair days, where someone tried the bump the starter method, and broke various items in the engine bay.

The problem is when the socket slips off the crank bolt, and the breaker bar subsequently hits things with considerable force..
 
I love this method!

How torn apart? As long as the starter is still hooked up, put a breaker bar on the pulley bolt as close to the bottom of the passenger frame rail as you can. Then pull the ignition wire and turn bump the starter real quick with the ignition. It'll break it loose.

Just exactly what I do.
 
Good call.

I can't tell you how many stories I've heard from fellow Mechanics, and even a few I fixed for people back in my consumer car repair days, where someone tried the bump the starter method, and broke various items in the engine bay.

The problem is when the socket slips off the crank bolt, and the breaker bar subsequently hits things with considerable force..

I've heard the stories too. I'm definitely very careful when I do it to have the breaker resting against the frame rail, and I never let it crank - just a quick bump.
 
I just went through that with a so called " certified Toyota mechanic". The crank bolt came out easily since it was not torqued properly the last time it was installed. I found out he used a chain wrench on my harmonic balancer to hold it and only had a 200 lb. torque wrench to which he said the bolt torqued up to that. The chain wrench gouged the pulleys and he managed to bang up and put a hole in the back of my radiator. Anyway I went off on that guy and he bought me a new radiator.

Well that got me to thinking. With the proper tool to hold the harmonic balancer, could you place the handle of the torque bolt wrench on the plate of a floor jack and ease it up until it pops the bolt loose? I haven't tried it but that idea came to me. If that works, it should also work for torqueing the bolt back on. If anyone gives that a try, please respond back here.
 
I've never had any trouble torquing the bolt back on against the drivetrain - pull the ebrake, put the truck in 5th gear, and chock the wheels. It'll hold.
 
After some PB blaster and a little wait the pulley slid right off. Cut the belt off instead of screwing around trying to compress the tensioner. Made a tool to compress the tensioner and the new one went on really easy. Unbelievable in what good shape the old timing belt is. Now I wish I wouldn't have cut it off and kept it for a spare. I will post a picture of the old belt with 240K on it.
 
I've heard the stories too. I'm definitely very careful when I do it to have the breaker resting against the frame rail, and I never let it crank - just a quick bump.

I don't feel like arguing with anyone on this matter, like I've done in the recent past.

The first rule of repair is; Don't make it worse.

The problem with the 'wedge a breaker bar in there, and bump the starter' method, is that there's a real likelihood of things going wrong, and damaging more parts, and making things worse.

Besides repairing the after effects of people using that method, back when I worked on cars for a living, I still hear the same stories from former colleagues that have stayed in the consumer car repair business.

The bottom line is it's poor advice, that has a high likelihood of causing even more problems for those that might attempt it.

Use the proper tools for the job. Lots of auto parts stores have the tools for rent for a minimal fee.

I just went through that with a so called " certified Toyota mechanic". The crank bolt came out easily since it was not torqued properly the last time it was installed. I found out he used a chain wrench on my harmonic balancer to hold it and only had a 200 lb. torque wrench to which he said the bolt torqued up to that. The chain wrench gouged the pulleys and he managed to bang up and put a hole in the back of my radiator. Anyway I went off on that guy and he bought me a new radiator.

Unfortunately, there are lots of hacks out there, working as "Certified Mechanics". I don't envy anyone that is trying to find a good Mechanic, but rest assured they do exist.
 
I've never had any trouble torquing the bolt back on against the drivetrain - pull the ebrake, put the truck in 5th gear, and chock the wheels. It'll hold.

Not if your e-brake is not working perfectly--ask me how I discovered mine worked on only one side.
 
I've always braced the breaker bar against the frame. Spray a little silicon on the bolt and make sure your socket isn't mega-snug on the CSP bolt. That way, it falls off if something goes awry, instead of whipping around the engine bay or slinging out the top.
 

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