CV Boots Leaking...
- Thread starter Javelin
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BlackWorksInc
New member
Which boots are leaking? Inboard CVs? I would ask if the boots are actually torn or the clamps are leaking. The stock ones should be fine, all CVs will eventually break/leak, we just hope they'll last 200k+ miles before they do!
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
My CV boots were leaking, replaced with hose clamps and not a drop since.
Replacing CV bands - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum
Replacing CV bands - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum
Casper421
New member
:iagree: Easy fix.
mrrab
New member
What the technician is saying doesn't even make sense...
So, he's discounting Genuine Toyota Parts by saying they will just break again. What at an additional 120K miles???
I too had a leaky CV boot. I Inserted CV grease into the boot with a Walgreens dental syringe, then tried a CV clamp that I picked up a Auto Zone. The clamp was a PITA and I couldn't get it on tight enough, so I ended up going with a Zip-Tie and has worked the best thus far.
Common problem. I tried the hose clamp fix. It lasted for a short while then the clamp tore the boot. I ultimately replaced the boot myself. Here is a great write up - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/101038-how-install-new-cv-axles.html#post914207.
I got a new boot from Rock Auto online for $12.00. Kit comes with a new boot and grease. The clamps it comes with require and special tool to properly tighten. I went to a local Napa auto parts store that had a better CV clamp that just required regular pliers to tighten.
Good Luck!
I got a new boot from Rock Auto online for $12.00. Kit comes with a new boot and grease. The clamps it comes with require and special tool to properly tighten. I went to a local Napa auto parts store that had a better CV clamp that just required regular pliers to tighten.
Good Luck!
stanleybb50
New member
^^^Do this. They have a link to the nice marine clamps that have rolled edges and quality stainless that wont rust. Buy them and you'll have some very nice clamps left over. Do your self a favor and get those clamps. I did this all last month.
You can get this pack of grease (the right kind and just the right amt. of grease at Napa:
Shot of the bag in the box:
And look like this when done:
From this!
BlackWorksInc
New member
Yummy Milkshake! Gotta love CV Grease! LoL
Javellin, I would look at the inner CV boots at the small band, check the boot for tears. They seem to like to tear just after the metal band. Otherwise if its a loose clamp, just fix it like the guys reccomended.
You just need to get the boot kit, but you will have to dissasemble the axle to replace the boot. I don't remember if its like the Corollas where you have to take the outboard CV joint apart to get the inner boot off, been a while since I did my boots.
Javellin, I would look at the inner CV boots at the small band, check the boot for tears. They seem to like to tear just after the metal band. Otherwise if its a loose clamp, just fix it like the guys reccomended.
You just need to get the boot kit, but you will have to dissasemble the axle to replace the boot. I don't remember if its like the Corollas where you have to take the outboard CV joint apart to get the inner boot off, been a while since I did my boots.
BlackWorksInc
New member
Honestly? You could probably drive it until the CV's make noise or fail...
What do you mean "long travel boots?" you're CVs don't lengthen laterally (Spline to Spline) because its sandwiched between the hub and differential, the OEM ones should be perfectly fine. I personally replaced both my inner and outer boots under my extended warranty (I did the work personally) and they have held up great with my OLW 2.5" lift, 35" Terra Grapplers, and the abuse I put my 4Runner through.
With 6 years and that many miles, I wouldn't waste the time or money replacing the clamps. That is a temporary fix and it is only a matter of time before the boots tear. You are better off pulling the axle and replacing the boots and clamps or just getting new shafts. It really isn't that much work.
As for better quality boots, I haven't seen them. CV boots are a wearable part. You expect them to fail at some point. I don't know how many more miles or years they think they can get out of their magic boots, but I think the OE ones are fine. Aftermarket boot will be cheaper, but don't expect increased longevity.
As for better quality boots, I haven't seen them. CV boots are a wearable part. You expect them to fail at some point. I don't know how many more miles or years they think they can get out of their magic boots, but I think the OE ones are fine. Aftermarket boot will be cheaper, but don't expect increased longevity.
I had the same issue (leaking inner boot at the small end) and ordered the kit from Rock Auto. I emailed them ahead of time to see if I would need a special tool but they said they only sell parts and have no techs on staff. I thought that was a pretty weak response.
The boot kit came today and you do need a special tool. Since I'm overseas I have to do everything mail order. I ended up ordering one of these from Amazon that should do the trick.
superman3043
Senior Member
I'm just experiencing leaky boots myself on both side. As a temporary fix, I just cleaned up the grease, then put some good ole' Billy Mays "Fix-It" tape over them. I'm on a road trip right now, but so far the fix seems to be holding together just fine.
After researching the issue on this forum, I'm just going to order the shaft assemblies from RockAuto... You can get some aftermarket Cardone ones for just $45. Probably order them in a week or so and do the work myself. Nothing to lose at that price. While I'm in there, I figure I'll change the differential and T-case fluids, upgrade the front pads and rotors and maybe finish installing the rest of my Energy Suspension bushings. Should be a good time!
After researching the issue on this forum, I'm just going to order the shaft assemblies from RockAuto... You can get some aftermarket Cardone ones for just $45. Probably order them in a week or so and do the work myself. Nothing to lose at that price. While I'm in there, I figure I'll change the differential and T-case fluids, upgrade the front pads and rotors and maybe finish installing the rest of my Energy Suspension bushings. Should be a good time!
mrrab
New member
LOL! Would love to know how long the Fix-It tape works for you.
superman3043
Senior Member
haha, Yeah, I'll keep you posted my man!
JB.
New member
This fix lasted nearly 5 months.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...old-garage-couple-questions-2.html#post704745
aha2988
New member
Once I added my lift i tore my driver side boot first then a day or two my passenger tore. sprayed CV greese everywhere on both sides it was the inner boots that tore. I know a buddy at a drive line shop an took the shafts to him one saterday just to see what he had to offer. You can have some machine work done on these things and have bigger bearings installed and beef them up so to say. He offered to take my old one and give me a "built" one for 215.00 per half shaft. Being broke an all I didnt take his offer but in our converstation he had pulled out a tundra CV axle he had on the shelf he was just pointing a few things out when i noticed The boots have the same diameter openings as our shafts but there longer! just long enough to completly forgive our negative angles. Knowing that CV axle failure mainly comes from torn boots i had them rebuild my shafts with tundra boots. I've got 9700 miles on them with a 3" lift no diff drop. Running great!!
stanleybb50
New member
My 2'' lift now has my CV's completely and totally flat actually. It seems to me that I'm less stressed now actually on the angles (stock was actually going ''up'' on the angle.) I imagine 3'' lift wouldn't be much worse than stock, but rather just the other way. Unless its allowed full down travel frequently.
Just my ramblings...
