Daily Driver 3RZ 4Runner Build

[UnderFire]

Fail. My welding skills were not good enough to make a seal on the oil pan bung. I'll get it figured out though.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Fail. My welding skills were not good enough to make a seal on the oil pan bung. I'll get it figured out though.

If it comes down to it- and you want to drive all the way out to Gresham- I could weld it up for ya. Shoot me a text if you're in a bind [emoji1360]

 

[UnderFire]

If it comes down to it- and you want to drive all the way out to Gresham- I could weld it up for ya. Shoot me a text if you're in a bind [emoji1360]

Appreciate the offer man, KO Racing's gonna hook it up though, a bit closer than Gresham lol.

I actually managed to chop the bung off and reweld it with no leaks, but then I fugged up one of the threads on it and now I can't thread the fitting on far enough, that was a fail. Just needed to adjust my technique. Learn something new everyday though.

I went ahead once I had it all figured out and stripped her apart. Got everything loosely fitted and everything's gonna work out mint. I failed kind of with the exhaust since I didn't really know where the flange would sit in the truck, my estimate was wrong, luckily the muffler clears the x-member no problem and it's nice and tucked, I was worried I'd have to have it bent slightly like the factory pipe was.

Also failed by not remembering the A/C pump bracket blocks the oil fitting hole. I just need a 45 degree fitting and that'll be set though. Everything else is looking mint. I stripped and test fitted everything in like 2 hours, half that was spent taking the old exhaust out. The only time consuming part will be dropping the oil pan, only because the diff is in the way.

 

[UnderFire]

Today this happened.

Which led to this.

Then finally got to this.

What a pain in the ass that was. Worst part by far.

KO Racing hooked it up though. This work is second to none. Weld porn.

And I got the exhaust hangers all welded on fits real good for what it is.

I got the rest of what I needed then proceeded to lose the frigging BSPT adapter. hopefully I'll find another tomorrow. Ripped the downpipe, manifold and turbo back off, next time it'll be on for real.

 

[JZiggy]

So the lower balljoint bolts failed?

Is that a common failure mode for 3rd gens or do we usually see the stud breaking?

 

[UnderFire]

So the lower balljoint bolts failed?

Is that a common failure mode for 3rd gens or do we usually see the stud breaking?

Nah man, I took em out, popping the LBJ off the spindle is the shortcut to pulling the diff, gives you enough room to pull the axle out of the diff and out of the way. Much quicker than pulling the axle out completely.

My LBJ and bolts only have a few thousand on em.

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

 

[JZiggy]

*Phew*!

And great tip, thanks for sharing.

 

[UnderFire]

I went ahead and had a new return hose made with brass and steel fittings instead of Aluminum. Greatly prefer to not have aluminum fittings.

Today I got the Turbo and Manifold on for the last time, also got the fittings all put in for the oil gauges and wiring ready to go into the cabin. That's about it, tomorrow is gonna be a long day, hopefully running, driving and spooling by midnight...

 

[UnderFire]

All the work was totally worth it. This thing absolutely R-I-P-S! Can't wait to get it intercooled and tuned at 10 PSI, it's gonna be ridiculous.

Still need to wire and plumb the gauges, and button up a few things. But running and driving, and most importantly, spoooooooling!

 

[Mc1337sauce]

All the work was totally worth it. This thing absolutely R-I-P-S! Can't wait to get it intercooled and tuned at 10 PSI, it's gonna be ridiculous.

Still need to wire and plumb the gauges, and button up a few things. But running and driving, and most importantly, spoooooooling!

Glad to see the truck up and running man! :rockon:

Can't wait to see what kind of power you make at 10 psi, should be pretty darn healthy.

 

[UnderFire]

Glad to see the truck up and running man! :rockon:

Can't wait to see what kind of power you make at 10 psi, should be pretty darn healthy.

I'm not a numbers guy but 200WHP on 35's would be cool. The butt dyno is stoked right now, but once I get it all buttoned up in this state I'll start plumbing the intercooler, then it's a matter of making the appointment, and spending the money of course.

With the wet weather we've been having and the newly found power, these 35's aren't hooking up too good in first! :madgrin:

 

[pnw96runner]

Great build! Thanks for sharing.

 

[Mc1337sauce]

I'm not a numbers guy but 200WHP on 35's would be cool. The butt dyno is stoked right now, but once I get it all buttoned up in this state I'll start plumbing the intercooler, then it's a matter of making the appointment, and spending the money of course.

With the wet weather we've been having and the newly found power, these 35's aren't hooking up too good in first! :madgrin:

Doing some simple engine analysis using Toyota's stock figures as a baseline, at 5 psi you should be sitting at around 220 HP/240 lb-ft crank, which seems about right since I've seen these engines dyno around 180/200 HP/TQ at that boost level with proper tuning (on M/T trucks, of course). My gut does say those figures are a tad high, but we're just ballparking here. Cranking the boost up to 10 psi, using the same analysis you're looking at 270/300 HP/TQ crank.

It should definitely be a very fun drive at that boost level, to say the least. It's pretty amazing what just a little boost can do.

 

[UnderFire]

Doing some simple engine analysis using Toyota's stock figures as a baseline, at 5 psi you should be sitting at around 220 HP/240 lb-ft crank, which seems about right since I've seen these engines dyno around 180/200 HP/TQ at that boost level with proper tuning (on M/T trucks, of course). My gut does say those figures are a tad high, but we're just ballparking here. Cranking the boost up to 10 psi, using the same analysis you're looking at 270/300 HP/TQ crank.

It should definitely be a very fun drive at that boost level, to say the least. It's pretty amazing what just a little boost can do.

Ever have any trouble with stumbling or stalling under deceleration? The RZ's running mint, but any time I come down off of boost too quickly it stumbles down to about 500RPM which sometimes stalls it, I feel like it's the blown off air that's been metered already isn't there anymore, and the ECU's pumping fuel in for air that's not there anymore.

I figure the FIC will probably solve it since it's basically a MAP sensor, but I'd like to have it running perfectly before taking the next step.

 

[Mc1337sauce]

Ever have any trouble with stumbling or stalling under deceleration? The RZ's running mint, but any time I come down off of boost too quickly it stumbles down to about 500RPM which sometimes stalls it, I feel like it's the blown off air that's been metered already isn't there anymore, and the ECU's pumping fuel in for air that's not there anymore.

I figure the FIC will probably solve it since it's basically a MAP sensor, but I'd like to have it running perfectly before taking the next step.

Are you engine braking or dropping into neutral when the stumbling and stalling happens? I had that issue when my BOV was vented (overrich issue) as well as when I tried deleting the BOV entirely. I'm not sure how the particular BOV you have is set up (I think I remember it being recirculated, right?), but it may have too stiff a spring installed, or might have the stiffness adjusted too high (if adjustable). If you're decelerating while still in gear the engine shouldn't have any stalling issue, though - unfortunately, the Autos free coast so I have to run recirculated, and had to spend a good bit of time fine tuning that setup.

If the valve is opening fine and is recirculated, you may be experiencing back flow through the MAF sensor, which causes all kinds of fun issues. When I tried deleting the BOV on my truck, air flowing back through the MAF sensor immediately caused the truck to stall. I think that the stock recirc option from KO places the port closer to the MAF in the plumbing than my after-the-fact solution, so that may be the issue as well.

 

[UnderFire]

Are you engine braking or dropping into neutral when the stumbling and stalling happens? I had that issue when my BOV was vented (overrich issue) as well as when I tried deleting the BOV entirely. I'm not sure how the particular BOV you have is set up (I think I remember it being recirculated, right?), but it may have too stiff a spring installed, or might have the stiffness adjusted too high (if adjustable). If you're decelerating while still in gear the engine shouldn't have any stalling issue, though - unfortunately, the Autos free coast so I have to run recirculated, and had to spend a good bit of time fine tuning that setup.

If the valve is opening fine and is recirculated, you may be experiencing back flow through the MAF sensor, which causes all kinds of fun issues. When I tried deleting the BOV on my truck, air flowing back through the MAF sensor immediately caused the truck to stall. I think that the stock recirc option from KO places the port closer to the MAF in the plumbing than my after-the-fact solution, so that may be the issue as well.

When I'm engine braking its not as prevalent, but still stumbles a bit. Its when I go from like 2k to idle and step on the brake it sometimes stalls or stumbles harder. The BOV is recirculating and seems to be working great. No flutter and always opens great even at low boost. The hose is a little ghetto at the moment, maybe fixing that will help a bit. It could be a vacuum leak somewhere. It was also have a stumbly idle but I bumped it up 100rpm and that went away.

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

 

[Mc1337sauce]

When I'm engine braking its not as prevalent, but still stumbles a bit. Its when I go from like 2k to idle and step on the brake it sometimes stalls or stumbles harder. The BOV is recirculating and seems to be working great. No flutter and always opens great even at low boost. The hose is a little ghetto at the moment, maybe fixing that will help a bit. It could be a vacuum leak somewhere. It was also have a stumbly idle but I bumped it up 100rpm and that went away.

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

I'm guessing you have a vacuum leak; I didn't have to bump my idle at all and have virtually the same setup. It should idle smoothly at somewhere between 600-750 RPM. It sounds like your BOV is opening as it should, so that's probably not the issue. If you're running any of the original vacuum lines you definitely should swap those out, since once you add boost you just end up blowing up the nasty, cracked 15-20 year old hoses resulting in all sorts of leaks which can definitely compound quickly.

Edit: Also, if you have a wideband, what does it read when the stumbling issue occurs? Having that gauge would definitely make diagnosing a lot easier.

 

[UnderFire]

I'm guessing you have a vacuum leak; I didn't have to bump my idle at all and have virtually the same setup. It should idle smoothly at somewhere between 600-750 RPM. It sounds like your BOV is opening as it should, so that's probably not the issue. If you're running any of the original vacuum lines you definitely should swap those out, since once you add boost you just end up blowing up the nasty, cracked 15-20 year old hoses resulting in all sorts of leaks which can definitely compound quickly.

Edit: Also, if you have a wideband, what does it read when the stumbling issue occurs? Having that gauge would definitely make diagnosing a lot easier.

Most of them have been replaced over the time I've owned them, but I'm sure problems will arise. I think my leak may actually be in the BOV's re-circulation hose. The PO put zip ties on as hose clamps lol. The wideband isn't hooked up yet, but old school mechanical intuition tells me it's definitely overly rich. You can hear/feel the engine choking itself out with too much fuel, it doesn't act starved of anything.

 

[Mc1337sauce]

Most of them have been replaced over the time I've owned them, but I'm sure problems will arise. I think my leak may actually be in the BOV's re-circulation hose. The PO put zip ties on as hose clamps lol. The wideband isn't hooked up yet, but old school mechanical intuition tells me it's definitely overly rich. You can hear/feel the engine choking itself out with too much fuel, it doesn't act starved of anything.

Zip ties could definitely be the root cause of the issue. :lmao:

I run some constant tension T-bolt clamps I got from Extreme PSI for my recirculation hose...not sure if yours is the same size, but the SKU is CLP-TBC138. Mine have been super solid for years; they're quite good clamps actually, and very inexpensive.

If new clamps don't solve the issue, some datalogging might help you diagnose what's going on via sensor readings, though if it's anything related to metered air escaping it will all be fixed once you're converted over to a MAP sensor.

 

[UnderFire]

Breaking news: My transmission died in a spectacular fashion on my way home tonight. Dropped from 1st to 2nd and completely ****ed something. I have no first or reverse and it's making a whole lot of noise. Probably related to whatever was knocking around in there last summer, but it made it's return really noticeable lol.

If something's gonna break, I always prefer it goes out with a bang!

Will be picking up my new trans Sunday and slapping it in.