Delayed shifting when cold, yes I know its normal but.....
- Thread starter thegipper
- Start date
johnbyebye
New member
thegipper
New member
So after work today I let it warm up before hooking my boat up (I keep it at work). I towed my 2500# boat and trailer to the lake about 15 minutes away and the tranny worked flawless again.
There may be some issue with the tranny but I don't think it is a major issue since it continues to work perfect once I get past the whole "won't shift out of 1st until warm".
Tomorrow the cluster circuit comes out for inspection.
There may be some issue with the tranny but I don't think it is a major issue since it continues to work perfect once I get past the whole "won't shift out of 1st until warm".
Tomorrow the cluster circuit comes out for inspection.
LittleCaesar
New member
Post a pic or two of it. Good luck.
Btw the 99s also have the digital odometer.
Btw the 99s also have the digital odometer.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
The MAF is not going to keep you from shifting to 2nd. It's your transmission, since it's not the ECU.
thegipper
New member
Yeah I figured it had nothing to do with it but I grabbed one anyways since I was get some pending misfire codes occasionally.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
thegipper
New member
Removed the cluster circuit board today. The connectors were a little dirty so I cleaned them up. I inspected the entire board with a magnifying glass and couldn't see any breaks or cracks. Just to be certain, I re-soldered every connection.
Stuck in 1st problem is still there.
I think at this point it is clearly something in the tranny itself....
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Stuck in 1st problem is still there.
I think at this point it is clearly something in the tranny itself....
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
mtbtim
Elite Member
I think I remember you saying you had the pink milkshake, correct? I'm thinking maybe that accelerated the demise of your transmission. I have a Subaru Outback with 340,000 miles that started slipping when cold but shifts much better when warm. I'm guessing it's some sort of internal seal issue.
Maybe just drive it as is for a while and start looking for a replacement. I don't know if I'd trust it for any long trips though. I helped [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] replace his auto trans with one he bought from a Toyota dealership. $2200 was the best price he could find. The videos of the repair will be out soon. It's going to be a 3 part video since it would be too long for a single video.
LittleCaesar
New member
That is a bummer. Think of it as a learning experience. I just killed a $25 carb on a trimmer by blowing out the check valve while cleaning it. Not happy having to buy another one.
If you have access to a FSM there are specs to ohm out the resistors to check to see if they are working correctly, whether throwing a CEL or not.
Keep us posted.
If you have access to a FSM there are specs to ohm out the resistors to check to see if they are working correctly, whether throwing a CEL or not.
Keep us posted.
thegipper
New member
It could be related or not, it's hard to say Tim.
From what I've read, PMS tranny failures are more pronounced (slipping, shutter, noises, or outright failure).
Mine may be down that path too but as of right now, the tranny works perfect other than the "stuck in 1st until warm".
Not sure what to do next. Maybe a power flush?
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
From what I've read, PMS tranny failures are more pronounced (slipping, shutter, noises, or outright failure).
Mine may be down that path too but as of right now, the tranny works perfect other than the "stuck in 1st until warm".
Not sure what to do next. Maybe a power flush?
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
thegipper
New member
I do have the FSM. Which resistors should I be checking? Can the solenoids be checked without dropping the pan (where are the connectors on the outside of the tranny)?.
LittleCaesar
New member
They should be able to, though having never done it, I can't say for certain.
Let me see if i can find the link to where some guy ohmed his out.
Let me see if i can find the link to where some guy ohmed his out.
LittleCaesar
New member
This isn't quite what I was looking for, I'll keep looking, but this may help:
http://www.atraonline.com/gears/2008/2008-07/2008_7_28.pdf
Here we go:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/92433-trans-shift-solenoid-sl-identify.html
http://www.atraonline.com/gears/2008/2008-07/2008_7_28.pdf
Here we go:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/92433-trans-shift-solenoid-sl-identify.html
Last edited:
thegipper
New member
Well guys, I have some very promising news. I dropped the pan to inspect/test the solenoids. Lock up solenoid ohm test, pass. 12v power test to hear audible "click" passed. The middle solenoid, ohm test pass, 12v power test passed, audible click so it passed.
When i removed The final solenoid (I believe is the 1st gear shift) I immediately noticed something. I could feel and hear something rattling in there. The others did not do this. Plus the housing looked "burnt" or darkened in the center. Here is the crazy part (which makes sense), it passed the ohm test (probably why it was throwing a code but totally failed the 12v power test. No audible click, just a mild spark on the connector when I would give it power.
Looks like I need a new solenoid!
Fingers mega crossed
Here is a video of it. https://youtu.be/t0o_WlacJ-o
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
When i removed The final solenoid (I believe is the 1st gear shift) I immediately noticed something. I could feel and hear something rattling in there. The others did not do this. Plus the housing looked "burnt" or darkened in the center. Here is the crazy part (which makes sense), it passed the ohm test (probably why it was throwing a code but totally failed the 12v power test. No audible click, just a mild spark on the connector when I would give it power.
Looks like I need a new solenoid!
Fingers mega crossed
Here is a video of it. https://youtu.be/t0o_WlacJ-o
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
mtbtim
Elite Member
Hoping that's it. I remember suggesting it might be a solenoid issue but the fact that it didn't shift bad when warm lead people to think the solenoid wasn't the problem which makes sense.
thegipper
New member
And it never threw a code. But again, it ohms out fine.
I knew there was a chance it was the solenoid, I just didn't think it was highly likely because no code was being thrown. That solenoid is 100% bad, I'm pretty confident it should fix my issue.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
I knew there was a chance it was the solenoid, I just didn't think it was highly likely because no code was being thrown. That solenoid is 100% bad, I'm pretty confident it should fix my issue.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
thegipper
New member
Ok I did some more research and I may not be in the clear just yet.
the solenoid that is bad is actually the lock up solenoid not the #1 or #2 solenoids.
From my understanding, according to the FSM, the lock up solenoid shouldn't have anything to do with shifting from 1st to 2nd? I ordered a kit that comes with all three so all replace them all even though the other two shift solenoids tested fine (ohm and power test).
Does anyone know if the lock up solenoid can cause shifting issues?
the solenoid that is bad is actually the lock up solenoid not the #1 or #2 solenoids.
From my understanding, according to the FSM, the lock up solenoid shouldn't have anything to do with shifting from 1st to 2nd? I ordered a kit that comes with all three so all replace them all even though the other two shift solenoids tested fine (ohm and power test).
Does anyone know if the lock up solenoid can cause shifting issues?
