MattJakobs
New member
And who said you couldn't long travel (eventually) a 4Runner with 36's?
Dirtco's 1999 4Runner Build
- Thread starter Dirtco
- Start date
And who said you couldn't long travel (eventually) a 4Runner with 36's?
Dirtco
New member
I'll let you know if that day ever comes, but I have way too much time and money in it right now to even think about that in the foreseeable future. Should have bought the Turbo 4Runner, it was a sweet rig and you would have given it a good home!
Dirtco
New member
My checkbook!
I could still go long travel, it's just a matter of money and whether that is the best option for the 4Runner.
Dirtco
New member
I pulled all the carpet back and used a welding blanket to keep the sparks and weld splatter from burning the interior.
JBurt
Senior Member
I'm failing to see a problem here.
liveoffroad
New member
man i've been thinking that my next build would be a v8 4th gen but your truck looks amazing on 36's. two questions, are the CV's holding up? where's the best place to buy tires (tire-rack, discount, some other website)?
Dirtco
New member
I'm not going to lie, a V8 4th Gen would be pretty cool!
I've only had it on the dirt a couple times with the 36's, so I really don't know how well the CV's are going to hold up. The way I look at it is if I only break one a season I'll be happy, call it the cost of wheeling. That's still not cheap being I have the Lotus axles, but oh well. I could run the RCV's, but they are super expensive and I'm worried about the strength of the ADD stub shaft and differential once the CV's are unbreakable.
I bought my Irok's off Amazon, I think it was through National Wheel and Tire. They were at a fair price, no tax, and shipping was only $12.00 a tire. You really have to shop around, and figure in tax and shipping.
Dirtco
New member
I guess it's time for an update.
I took the 4Runner in for an alignment; the tech really took his time and got the whole front end spot on. I test drove it afterwards and it still wasn't handling right, I looked at the alignment print out and noticed that the rear left tire had 1.25 degree's of toe in (almost 3/4"). I checked the adjustment of the rear UCA's, along with the lower control arms and brackets but they were okay. My concerns were realized when I tore into the rear axle and found that the housing was bent, for the second time now.
As you can imagine I was super bummed out about the whole thing, I was really close to getting the 4Runner ready for the summer and this is a pretty big set back. I really wanted a Diamond housing but it's not in the budget, and the wait time would kill off most of the summer. My next choice was a Trail-Gear housing, but with the offset axle tubes I couldn't guarantee that it would work with my FROR full float kit. So that brought me back to a stock housing, I went down to Yota Jim's and picked up yet another housing. This time I'm going to truss the crap out of it and hope it holds up. Toyota housings are notorious for warping when you truss them, so it's going to take some time to get everything welded in place and not build too much heat in the housing.
I took the 4Runner in for an alignment; the tech really took his time and got the whole front end spot on. I test drove it afterwards and it still wasn't handling right, I looked at the alignment print out and noticed that the rear left tire had 1.25 degree's of toe in (almost 3/4"). I checked the adjustment of the rear UCA's, along with the lower control arms and brackets but they were okay. My concerns were realized when I tore into the rear axle and found that the housing was bent, for the second time now.
As you can imagine I was super bummed out about the whole thing, I was really close to getting the 4Runner ready for the summer and this is a pretty big set back. I really wanted a Diamond housing but it's not in the budget, and the wait time would kill off most of the summer. My next choice was a Trail-Gear housing, but with the offset axle tubes I couldn't guarantee that it would work with my FROR full float kit. So that brought me back to a stock housing, I went down to Yota Jim's and picked up yet another housing. This time I'm going to truss the crap out of it and hope it holds up. Toyota housings are notorious for warping when you truss them, so it's going to take some time to get everything welded in place and not build too much heat in the housing.
SnowLizard
New member
Awesome Build thread, I really enjoyed the 104 pg read....
sorry about the 2nd axle housing, that sucks. I'm sure with your beautiful craftsmanship you'll have a master piece of an axle when done.
sorry about the 2nd axle housing, that sucks. I'm sure with your beautiful craftsmanship you'll have a master piece of an axle when done.
coopakaskip
New member
Such an awesome build up. Just went through the 104 pages. Love all the custom fabrication, in for more.
Dirtco
New member
Thanks guys. It was a hard pill to swallow after all the work I have done, but its just the nature of this hobby. I've been working on the rear axle daily, welding small sections to keep the heat down and hopefully avoid warping the new housing. I'll post pictures soon.
Last edited:
liveoffroad
New member
is there a big strength difference with earlier housings? i haven't hear too may people bend the 1st and 2nd gen housings, but surprisingly lots of folks bending 3rd gen housings. wonder what changed
Dirtco
New member
I don't know, but I think your right. I wonder if the Tacoma's have the same issue? I have bent a 1st gen housing on my old green 4Runner but I did a lot of stupid stuff in that rig (like jumping it and rolling it).
Dirtco
New member
I figured that I would post some pictures of the axle, it’s not done but there’s enough progress for an update.
I started by cleaning it up and cutting all the stock brake line brackets off, then I shaved the drain plug for a smooth bottom. Next I installed a Trail-Gear diff guard, I went with this because I know it clears the panhard bar. If you install the guard without trimming the bottom it leaves a lip that could catch rocks on the trail, so I trimmed the bottom and smoothed out the transition between the guard and the axle housing.
The “backbone” of the truss is .120 wall tubing, and it runs the length of the axle housing on both sides from the diff guard to the axle housing ends. Once the tubing was completely welded on both ends I could install the lower section of the truss, it’s 3/16” plate that I cut to fit the housing. I didn’t take many pictures during the process, but here is how the axle sets right now.
I started by cleaning it up and cutting all the stock brake line brackets off, then I shaved the drain plug for a smooth bottom. Next I installed a Trail-Gear diff guard, I went with this because I know it clears the panhard bar. If you install the guard without trimming the bottom it leaves a lip that could catch rocks on the trail, so I trimmed the bottom and smoothed out the transition between the guard and the axle housing.
The “backbone” of the truss is .120 wall tubing, and it runs the length of the axle housing on both sides from the diff guard to the axle housing ends. Once the tubing was completely welded on both ends I could install the lower section of the truss, it’s 3/16” plate that I cut to fit the housing. I didn’t take many pictures during the process, but here is how the axle sets right now.
EatonKyleH
New member
:wow2:
LittleCaesar
New member
Wow, for a moment there I thought I was going to see a Husqvarna 455 used to build an axle. So disappointed.
My Autumn Mica Blaze is so jealous.....
My Autumn Mica Blaze is so jealous.....
Similar threads
