Just wanted to say thanks to the OP for summarizing all of the info and terrific thread links. My 2016 4Runner TRD Pro that was ordered in December 2015 is scheduled for delivery in June 2016. As a result, I am excited and in the process of gathering maintenance information. Thanks again.
DIY maintenance quick reference
- Thread starter renau001
- Start date
stir_fry_boy
New member
Dealer uses the same grease in all the driveline fittings. I watched them do it on my 15'. I asked the tech if he was using the correct grease, as the slips and U joints have different grease. He said that's all they use on every truck and SUV.
I will use green grease on mine, as it is synthetic and compatible with all other greases.
I will use green grease on mine, as it is synthetic and compatible with all other greases.
jared.hessler
New member
Great post, this will be my lifeline for the next 6 months as I work to knock out all sorts of DIY maintenance on my new (to me) SR5.
Could use a little help.
My last couple vehicles before my 4Runner have been front wheel drive with a transaxle, and the last vehicle I had with rear wheel drive I drove it to 265k miles and never touched the driveshaft for anything. So I could really use some help here on torquing the driveshaft bolts. I have attempted (cautiously), but have been unable to get myself positioned to get enough leverage to click my wrench set at 65 lb-ft. I'm not concerned that any are loose just based on feel and I'm not due for it, but just wanna make sure I can do this when it's directed at 15k miles. So a few questions:
1) Can anybody elaborate on exactly what tooling (sockets, crows feet, wrenches, etc.) you're using where?
2) Any tips on getting positioned properly for better leverage?
3) Should you or can you do this with the wheels lifted to allow rotating the driveshaft for easier access to all the bolts and just to get it a little higher?
4) I thought I read somewhere that you should hold either the bolt or the nut still and torque the other, i.e. something like you do not want the bolt rotating? Anything significant here?
5) Should vehicle be in neutral?
6) Anything else that could go wrong, damage something (like a differential or transfer case) inadvertently somehow?
7) On another note, had no trouble greasing the driveshafts, but how anal are you guys about cleaning up excess grease that is purged?
Appreciate any help.
My last couple vehicles before my 4Runner have been front wheel drive with a transaxle, and the last vehicle I had with rear wheel drive I drove it to 265k miles and never touched the driveshaft for anything. So I could really use some help here on torquing the driveshaft bolts. I have attempted (cautiously), but have been unable to get myself positioned to get enough leverage to click my wrench set at 65 lb-ft. I'm not concerned that any are loose just based on feel and I'm not due for it, but just wanna make sure I can do this when it's directed at 15k miles. So a few questions:
1) Can anybody elaborate on exactly what tooling (sockets, crows feet, wrenches, etc.) you're using where?
2) Any tips on getting positioned properly for better leverage?
3) Should you or can you do this with the wheels lifted to allow rotating the driveshaft for easier access to all the bolts and just to get it a little higher?
4) I thought I read somewhere that you should hold either the bolt or the nut still and torque the other, i.e. something like you do not want the bolt rotating? Anything significant here?
5) Should vehicle be in neutral?
6) Anything else that could go wrong, damage something (like a differential or transfer case) inadvertently somehow?
7) On another note, had no trouble greasing the driveshafts, but how anal are you guys about cleaning up excess grease that is purged?
Appreciate any help.
I don't worry about this personally. My 4Runner is 6 years old and has 90k kilometres and I've never once thought that my driveshafts will fall off. I had both driveshafts on and off of my Land Cruiser a number of times while I owned it and I never bother rechecking the torque after each reinstallation and it's the same setup as the 4Runner. Save yourself some time and skip this step (unless you're looking for an excuse to hide out in the garage!)
If you really want to do it there's no set formula for the best way to do it. You'll have to experiment and see what works for you and your tools. I remember using a regular shallow socket on a 12" extension with a wobble end for the nuts (driveshaft side) and a box end wrench for the bolts on the front and rear differential flanges. The studs on the transfer case flanges are pressed in so they won't move on you. You'd have to try pretty hard to break something else with only 65ftlbs on the torque wrench. I issuable had to move the truck around a bit to access all four nuts on each end. It's doable but it's a pain and really not worth the effort just to check them.
As far as grease, I wipe off any of the extra stuff I can reach but I'm not flossing around the driveshaft yokes with paper towel or anything like that. Centrifugal force will do the rest as you drive. Just don't over grease the slip yokes; 4-5 pumps every oil change should be plenty.
Just unbolt them.
Does anybody know where/how to get a 6-point 24mm or 15/16" socket for rear diff plugs that doesn't have a chamfer on the inside. Was doing the 15k diff fluid level check today. I got creative with some leverage and got it loose, but I think if I continue to use the same socket I'm gonna wind up rounding the bolt too much because there's not much to grab on to, and the engagement due to that chamfer on the inside of the socket on each face was less than desirable.
BearsEatBikers
New member
Does anyone have a link or more information about doing an engine coolant flush on the 5th gens? I've found some info on 4th gens, but I wanna make sure it gets done right. The OP said there is a special sequence to filling the voids without damaging anything, and I would love to know what those are :bounce:
Okusputokus
New member
Cannot get manual to unzip properly-
Read Me directions are - Instructions for Repair Manual:
Navigate to RM\2010_4Runner_Repair_Manual\Toy 2010 4Runner Repair Manual
Look for file named "2010 4Runner Repair Manual .htm" and open it in a browser.
Enjoy!
This is for personal/private use only do not publish.
I cannot open this file in a browser. I cannot unzip anything.
Help.
Read Me directions are - Instructions for Repair Manual:
Navigate to RM\2010_4Runner_Repair_Manual\Toy 2010 4Runner Repair Manual
Look for file named "2010 4Runner Repair Manual .htm" and open it in a browser.
Enjoy!
This is for personal/private use only do not publish.
I cannot open this file in a browser. I cannot unzip anything.
Help.
Lester Lugnut
New member
I changed mine in the spring of '17 following directions in the 2010 FSM that was posted some years back by a member named nashman69g.
Removed fluid from overflow bottle - drained radiator; then drained block from engine block drain plug on passenger side. That plug is easily accessible. At one time there was one on the drivers side, but somewhere along the way(2012/2013) Toyota removed it and replaced with a bolt. I can tell you that trying to access the drivers side engine block coolant drain plug is a bear and it's my belief that's why Toyota eliminated it. There is all kinds of opportunity to break something on that side.
After draining all of the above and flushing with a garden hose, I buttoned it all back up and used the Lisle air bleed tool to get the air out of the system. There is no special fill sequence. Changing coolant on a 5th Gen 4R is no different than any other vehicle. Not touting amazon - just using their site to show what the Lisle tool looks like. Countless how-to videos on youtube. You can bleed the air elevating the front end and bliping the throttle, but the Lisle tool eliminates the mess going that route.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0
Last edited:
Randyman...
New member
I'll be doing a slew of maintenance soon - Coolant being one.
Is flushing with tap water / garden hose a good idea? Don't you risk residual tap water 'contamination' causing issues down the road? I was just planning on draining and refilling.
Is the "elevate front end and blip throttle" method a safe bet to get the air out? Or would you go with that Lisle tool hands down?
Last Q - I saw another thread asking how much coolant you need if bleeding radiator and passenger side drain plug (can't find it now). Total capacity is listed as 11+ qts - so I assume we need 3 gallon jugs of SLLC2?
Toodles!
Is flushing with tap water / garden hose a good idea? Don't you risk residual tap water 'contamination' causing issues down the road? I was just planning on draining and refilling.
Is the "elevate front end and blip throttle" method a safe bet to get the air out? Or would you go with that Lisle tool hands down?
Last Q - I saw another thread asking how much coolant you need if bleeding radiator and passenger side drain plug (can't find it now). Total capacity is listed as 11+ qts - so I assume we need 3 gallon jugs of SLLC2?
Toodles!
I'll be doing a slew of maintenance soon - Coolant being one.
Is flushing with tap water / garden hose a good idea? Don't you risk residual tap water 'contamination' causing issues down the road? I was just planning on draining and refilling.
Is the "elevate front end and blip throttle" method a safe bet to get the air out? Or would you go with that Lisle tool hands down?
Last Q - I saw another thread asking how much coolant you need if bleeding radiator and passenger side drain plug (can't find it now). Total capacity is listed as 11+ qts - so I assume we need 3 gallon jugs of SLLC2?
Toodles!
When the time comes, I will just do a drain and fill. My personal experience with radiators is anytime I have mixed my own coolant or tried to flush, it seems to have lead to more leaks down the road due to corrosion, even using distilled water. I did a drain and fill on my wife's Highlander at 100k, replaced with the expensive Toyota brand pre-mixed coolant and it's looked good for the last year and half and no leaks. Toyota's coolant description is a high quality ethylene glycol based non-silicate, non-amine, non-nitrite, non-borate coolant with long-life hybrid organic acid technology (coolant with long-life hybrid organic acid technology consists of a combination of low phosphates and organic acids). That's a lot of words and may be an upsell, but it's worth it to me if it prevents leaks and having to replace the radiator. And I don't think any water I could flush with meets all those characteristics.
