DIY maintenance quick reference

[Randyman...]

When the time comes, I will just do a drain and fill.

I did just that. Incredibly easy. Was doing an oil change at the same time, so had to drop skid plates regardless.

Radiator drain cock opened with little effort. Passenger-side engine block draincock (10mm bolt) + 2' of appropriate hose made this very easy and fairly clean. Old coolant appeared a little cloudy - not bad for 6 years and 155K :wacko:

Used the fill/burp method from the 2010 FSM. Didn't need the air bleed tool at all!

RE: Refill Capacity: I used about 2 1/3 gallons - so 2 gallons would not have been enough. And I have a spare 2/3 gallon on-hand if needed (and we have other 'yotas)...

Also lightly detailed the engine bay, and did a quick wash. Didn't get to spark plugs or belt - next weekend (or so I tell myself) ...

Thanks for the input :hatsoff:

 

[renau001]

I did just that. Incredibly easy. Was doing an oil change at the same time, so had to drop skid plates regardless.

Radiator drain cock opened with little effort. Passenger-side engine block draincock (10mm bolt) + 2' of appropriate hose made this very easy and fairly clean. Old coolant appeared a little cloudy - not bad for 6 years and 155K :wacko:

Used the fill/burp method from the 2010 FSM. Didn't need the air bleed tool at all!

RE: Refill Capacity: I used about 2 1/3 gallons - so 2 gallons would not have been enough. And I have a spare 2/3 gallon on-hand if needed (and we have other 'yotas)...

Also lightly detailed the engine bay, and did a quick wash. Didn't get to spark plugs or belt - next weekend (or so I tell myself) ...

Thanks for the input :hatsoff:

What type of hose did you use on the engine block drain plug? Anything else I need to update in the OP that would be helpful for others?

 

[RCFJ]

What type of hose did you use on the engine block drain plug? Anything else I need to update in the OP that would be helpful for others?

Awesome thread. Thanks a ton.

Wanted to get a 3oz grease gun for greasing the prop shaft. Will these 2 work as the 2 types of grease needed?


Moly for the 2 on the slide yokes
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPCSNU/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3I1KK2PZWH1ET

Lithium for the 4 spider joint fittings
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059HJZO6/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

[renau001]

Awesome thread. Thanks a ton.

Wanted to get a 3oz grease gun for greasing the prop shaft. Will these 2 work as the 2 types of grease needed?


Moly for the 4 spider joint fittings
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPCSNU/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3I1KK2PZWH1ET

Lithium for the 2 on the slide yokes
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059HJZO6/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Can’t see from the pic on website, but look for NLGI #2. Need to swap up your order though. Both greases are lithium based. For the spiders, use non-moly. For the slide yokes, moly is preferred. The ones I link to in the OP definitely fit the bill. But they are not 3oz.

 

[RCFJ]

Can’t see from the pic on website, but look for NLGI #2. Need to swap up your order though. Both greases are lithium based. For the spiders, use non-moly. For the slide yokes, moly is preferred. The ones I link to in the OP definitely fit the bill. But they are not 3oz.

Quick reply too, yep already caught it and reversed it.

Both are NGLI 2. Thanks again

 

[J.F. Sebastian]

Well after coming across this thread linked from another, wondering why it isn't stickied? Have been going through these forums quite heavily and never saw this comprehensive archive of specs!

Thanks a LOT for doing this renau001! Bookmarked for easy reference.

 

[heybert]

Want some input.

New to the Gen5 maintenance schedule, so was wanting some input. I have a 2014 4Runner SR5. When I purchased it at 72000 km's, the dealership could not tell me if the driveline fluids have been changed as they did not have any info on the vehicle between 48000 to 72000 km's. Should I change the diffs and transfer case fluids now that I have 76000 km's?
Next question is when should I change the automatic tranny fluid?

Thanks in advance.

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

New to the Gen5 maintenance schedule, so was wanting some input. I have a 2014 4Runner SR5. When I purchased it at 72000 km's, the dealership could not tell me if the driveline fluids have been changed as they did not have any info on the vehicle between 48000 to 72000 km's. Should I change the diffs and transfer case fluids now that I have 76000 km's?
Next question is when should I change the automatic tranny fluid?

Thanks in advance.

Now would be about the right time to replace all fluids IMO. Toyota claims the tranny is "lifetime fluid" under normal conditions however there is no such thing and fluid that never wears out. I changed my OEM diff oil out at 10K and i'm glad I did. The rear diff was pretty dirty and had metal in it but nothing that is of any concern, just normal wear. I was happy to get all that out of there and know the fluid is clean. Front diff was almost like new but I use 4WD ever month as stated in the manual so it did have a little bit of a darker color. For the diffs, I will service them every 30K or so moving forward. Transfer case and transmission will be every 50K or so. I also change engine oil and filter every 5K and grease the 6 zerks on the u joints and slip yokes with every oil change. At the end of the day, your fluids can never be too fresh or too clean and IMO it's just cheap peace of mind.

 

[heybert]

now would be about the right time to replace all fluids imo. Toyota claims the tranny is "lifetime fluid" under normal conditions however there is no such thing and fluid that never wears out. I changed my oem diff oil out at 10k and i'm glad i did. The rear diff was pretty dirty and had metal in it but nothing that is of any concern, just normal wear. I was happy to get all that out of there and know the fluid is clean. Front diff was almost like new but i use 4wd ever month as stated in the manual so it did have a little bit of a darker color. For the diffs, i will service them every 30k or so moving forward. Transfer case and transmission will be every 50k or so. I also change engine oil and filter every 5k and grease the 6 zerks on the u joints and slip yokes with every oil change. At the end of the day, your fluids can never be too fresh or too clean and imo it's just cheap peace of mind.

thanks!

 

[5thgen20]

Tranny Fluid Change?

First off- excellent write-up, thank you!
So I’m about to change my tranny fluid in my 2011 T4R. I just got it at 155k on it and the ATF fluid has never been changed. Reading the manual, this has me a bit concerned, but other places I’ve read that the fluid is good for the life of the car... so is it worth going through the trouble of dropping the pan and all that or should i just leave it be?
The ole “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it”?

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

First off- excellent write-up, thank you!
So I’m about to change my tranny fluid in my 2011 T4R. I just got it at 155k on it and the ATF fluid has never been changed. Reading the manual, this has me a bit concerned, but other places I’ve read that the fluid is good for the life of the car... so is it worth going through the trouble of dropping the pan and all that or should i just leave it be?
The ole “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it”?

Drop the pan, change the filter, change the fluid. There is absolutely no such thing as lifetime fluid, that's total BS Nothing lasts forever.

 

[TN4RNR]

137 lb ft torque on the front caliper mounting bolts? Really? Man, that sounds high. I’ve also seen 91, possibly from a 4th gen or earlier?

Can anyone confirm?

Thanks

 

[renau001]

137 lb ft torque on the front caliper mounting bolts? Really? Man, that sounds high. I’ve also seen 91, possibly from a 4th gen or earlier?

Can anyone confirm?

Thanks

I can confirm that is what the factory service manual says. I can't say for sure whether or not that is a typo. So use at your own risk.

 

[andyinoly]

thanks for the post! looks full of great material. I'm a noob to this gen and have some parts I'm having a hard time finding guidance to replace/repair. Stupid things like the butt warmer isn't working on one side, shifter area backlight not working, and a couple random plastic interior trim pieces... any points in the right directions would be appreciated! sorry if this isn't the right place... still figuring this stuff out thanks for the resource!

 

[renau001]

thanks for the post! looks full of great material. I'm a noob to this gen and have some parts I'm having a hard time finding guidance to replace/repair. Stupid things like the butt warmer isn't working on one side, shifter area backlight not working, and a couple random plastic interior trim pieces... any points in the right directions would be appreciated! sorry if this isn't the right place... still figuring this stuff out thanks for the resource!

Partsouq.com has dealer style parts diagrams. Best I’ve found for hard to figure out stuff.

Bring your vin # for best results.

 

[keph13]

Just did my rear brakes - one thing you might want to add for vehicles in salt zones:

If you pull the caliper bracket and plan to replace the pad mounting clips, you may need to clean a substantial amount of buildup off the bracket to get everything to fit right. I ended up taking a Dremel abrasive wheel to all the places where the clip sits - otherwise I couldn't get the pad in without a hammer, and it certainly wasn't sliding freely.

Also, more generally for new DIYers in this part of the country - get a torch! This is the first project where I've defaulted to putting Wd40 and then some heat on all the bolts if they don't come out right away, and it's been infinitely simpler and quicker.

 

[renau001]

Just did my rear brakes - one thing you might want to add for vehicles in salt zones:

If you pull the caliper bracket and plan to replace the pad mounting clips, you may need to clean a substantial amount of buildup off the bracket to get everything to fit right. I ended up taking a Dremel abrasive wheel to all the places where the clip sits - otherwise I couldn't get the pad in without a hammer, and it certainly wasn't sliding freely.

Also, more generally for new DIYers in this part of the country - get a torch! This is the first project where I've defaulted to putting Wd40 and then some heat on all the bolts if they don't come out right away, and it's been infinitely simpler and quicker.

Thanks for the input, I probably won't put that in the OP as a general recommendation for most. But for folks in your part of the country that require it, hopefully they'll read through and get the information.

Glad I don't have to deal with anything like that. I was up in Illinois near Wisconsin not too long ago, and it didn't take me to long to be thankful I live in Alabama.

 

[DougEFresh2]

thank you!

 

[Lost-Again]

Well... This was really good! Thanks!

 

[gsla72]

Minor possible addition - Tried doing my ATF this weekend. The fill plug is a 24mm, however space is limited in the transmission tunnel. May be worth mentioning that a short socket is required to get this open. My 1/2" setup was too large, my 3/8" deep socket was too long, and a 24mm open ended can't work with the angle necessary.

I'd recommend anyone tackling the job have a shorter 24mm 3/8" drive socket on hand if they want to make it easier. Mine should be arriving this weekend.