DIY: Ultra Low Profile Custom Rack / Crossbars for OEM TE Roof Rails

I had in mind to do something very similar. I have a pretty good design solution to all the problems and may have found a fab shop to do some manufacturing to supply the parts in bulk.

With the trial fitment and error to do this right it has been a bit of a pain in the butt. This project is out of the reach of most folks if they don't have access to a "fab" shop.

I can make mine and be happy and it's not a big deal. I think it's a great solution and it's one most folks should have access to. I was wondering, if someone put an entire package together to do this, all the bolts and nuts and components together in one package would it be something folks may be willing to pay for? If so, about how much per crossbar? If it's worth it, I'll dump the money/time/effort in doing it. If not, I'll just make my own.
 
Correct 1/8"x2" on the end plates. I actually cut the end plates and everything else with a miter saw and used a file to finish it off. You could get the same results using a hack saw and a file, it will just take a lot longer. A drill press is also a big help. Good luck if you decide to give it a try.

I've been looking at roof racks and luckily came upon this thread. I really like the way your roof rails came out. Upon suggestion from Terrapod's link I've decided to purchase the EX-1030 – 1″ x 3″ Smooth T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion from TNutz. I'm going to use four 3" pieces and one 1/4 round piece.
There are numerous options on taping/counterbore the end of each piece. Would you please advise me what configuration I need to select in order to build this.
Also, where did you get the material for the aluminum end plates.

Thanks
 
I've been looking at roof racks and luckily came upon this thread. I really like the way your roof rails came out. Upon suggestion from Terrapod's link I've decided to purchase the EX-1030 – 1″ x 3″ Smooth T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion from TNutz. I'm going to use four 3" pieces and one 1/4 round piece.
There are numerous options on taping/counterbore the end of each piece. Would you please advise me what configuration I need to select in order to build this.
Also, where did you get the material for the aluminum end plates.

Thanks

Endplates can be had from Mcmaster-carr. Same with bolts, etc.

C
 
I didn't realize this thread was still active. The rack I did has worked well but I had some wind noise that annoyed me, solution was to build a fairing. It worked, looks good and doesn't interfere with whatever you load. Low profile like the bars, I'll take a picture and upload it this weekend.
 
I'm still working with the fab shop on pricing but I'm looking at basically 50 dollars per crossbar with everything included, Hopefully. That's using the 3X1 extrusions. Not bad for a straight bolt up option. If anyone is interested once mine get set up I'll add pics.
 
I'm still working with the fab shop on pricing but I'm looking at basically 50 dollars per crossbar with everything included, Hopefully. That's using the 3X1 extrusions. Not bad for a straight bolt up option. If anyone is interested once mine get set up I'll add pics.

Sooo..let me get this straight. I work to come up with an idea for the OE rack and post a design idea to share. And you then take advantage of that and preparing it to sell to others...for profit?

And people ask me why I don't do this more often. FFS. :shrug:
 
Just in case someone didn't see the other thread, these bolt right in

LFD Off Road - Ruggedized Crossbar 5th Gen

I haven't had the chance to put mine to any real use yet but so far I like them. Great option for those of us who don't want or need a full rack.

20180720_224206-X2.jpg
 
Sooo..let me get this straight. I work to come up with an idea for the OE rack and post a design idea to share. And you then take advantage of that and preparing it to sell to others...for profit?

And people ask me why I don't do this more often. FFS. :shrug:


Who said I was planning on making a profit? The tapped cross bar from Tnutz is around 23 dollars. The T slot nuts are 3 dollars a piece they require 4 of them. The other bolts are a couple of bucks and that puts you at 39 dollars before shipping not including the plates. If you add two laser cut custom plates just how much profit do you think is there at 50 dollars per set up? I can tell you that EMachine shop will cut them out for 12 dollars a piece not including shipping on the parts at quantities under 20.

I was offering to do the work for folks that weren't willing to put the time in and make it easy. If no one is interested that's fine but honestly I'd love to be able to send you 50 bucks per cross bar and be done with it.

My end plates are going to be a bit different too as they have built in tie downs, so not only do I have to get them laser cut but I also have to bend the tie downs over in a brake. Yet more time....

In addition to all of this, I've got to front the money to get them cut and the shop I'm dealing with won't even bother unless you cut half a sheet. In addition, my design isn't like yours. Conceptually, they are plates to attach extrusions to existing rails and that's where it ends.

So I ask... where is the profit?

This comment "I'm looking at basically 50 dollars per crossbar with everything included" is my expected cost. If you search my history a few months ago I suggested that a crowd sourced effort to design a rack based on actual needs and inputs from members here. I offered to draw it based on suggestions and publish the drawings as "open source" for anyone to have it cut out and use. Or, if someone wanted to source them for others that would be fine too. No one bit on the idea... I think it's still a good idea and still has value. I was just offering to take the burden of running down all the fab shops to find a good price for everyone. For the record, this has taken me a couple of weeks to get the terms that make this even cost effective compared to other options. I've had to analyze the proper/cost effective method of cutting. I've looked at water jetting, Laser cutting, Plasma Arc cutting and so on. In addition to having the plates 3D printed to validate design.

That's a bit of a rant and I'm sure you are a great dude. There was just a misunderstanding I'm sure.
 
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Who said I was planning on making a profit? The tapped cross bar from Tnutz is around 23 dollars. The T slot nuts are 3 dollars a piece they require 4 of them. The other bolts are a couple of bucks and that puts you at 39 dollars before shipping not including the plates. If you add two laser cut custom plates just how much profit do you think is there at 50 dollars per set up? I can tell you that EMachine shop will cut them out for 12 dollars a piece not including shipping on the parts at quantities under 20.

I was offering to do the work for folks that weren't willing to put the time in and make it easy. If no one is interested that's fine but honestly I'd love to be able to send you 50 bucks per cross bar and be done with it.

My end plates are going to be a bit different too as they have built in tie downs, so not only do I have to get them laser cut but I also have to bend the tie downs over in a brake. Yet more time....

In addition to all of this, I've got to front the money to get them cut and the shop I'm dealing with won't even bother unless you cut half a sheet. In addition, my design isn't like yours. Conceptually, they are plates to attach extrusions to existing rails and that's where it ends.

So I ask... where is the profit?

This comment "I'm looking at basically 50 dollars per crossbar with everything included" is my expected cost. If you search my history a few months ago I suggested that a crowd sourced effort to design a rack based on actual needs and inputs from members here. I offered to draw it based on suggestions and publish the drawings as "open source" for anyone to have it cut out and use. Or, if someone wanted to source them for others that would be fine too. No one bit on the idea... I think it's still a good idea and still has value. I was just offering to take the burden of running down all the fab shops to find a good price for everyone. For the record, this has taken me a couple of weeks to get the terms that make this even cost effective compared to other options. I've had to analyze the proper/cost effective method of cutting. I've looked at water jetting, Laser cutting, Plasma Arc cutting and so on. In addition to having the plates 3D printed to validate design.

That's a bit of a rant and I'm sure you are a great dude. There was just a misunderstanding I'm sure.


That’s the problem with online conversations. They sometime result in a failure to communicate or fully understand. Thanks for the backstory, it all makes sense.

I would actually like to see your crossbar solution. I may be interested. Do you have photos of the actual units to post, or conceptual drawings?
 
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That’s the problem with online conversations. They sometime result in a failure to communicate or fully understand. Thanks for the backstory, it all makes sense.

I would actually like to see your crossbar solution. I may be interested. Do you have photos of the actual units to post, or conceptual drawings?

Here is a pic of the basic design (printed in plastic). The "loops" on the top will be bent inward even with the tops of the bars. This will allow you to slide in a ratchet strap hook or other tie down. For my needs this design made the most sense. I wouldn't use my rack often but when I do I want it to be convenient. In the photo you can see that it's hanging on the rail without being bolted up. That's because it's a perfect fit. You can order the rails from Tnutz pre-cut and tapped and they fit perfectly. Also, I'm still working with the fab shop to see what it will cost. The shop I am working with is a huge production shop that is only talking to me out of kindness. Due to the small scale, I'm not really worth the hassle but they seem to be good guys so they are helping.

I have asked for a quote in both mild steel and aluminum. Due to raw cost the aluminum will be more expensive but I still haven't received a hard quote. Also the plates will be laser cut so they will be dimensionally perfect.

pic of the brackets... For some reason it will not let me post a picture. AAARRRRRGGGHHHHHHH

Maybe your post count has to be above some number to post pictures. If someone will post it for me I can supply the link.
 
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Maybe this will work. Thanks Electroboy for the heads up!

Interesting take on the concept. I am leaning the design to go a bit lower with a flush mount to the crossbar. Also - I will be using angle instead of flat stock to allow for added support and a built in tie-down point. I'll post up the design when I have them completed.
 
Interesting take on the concept. I am leaning the design to go a bit lower with a flush mount to the crossbar. Also - I will be using angle instead of flat stock to allow for added support and a built in tie-down point. I'll post up the design when I have them completed.


The clearance definitely exists to "hide" the bar attaching screws in the rail. Angle iron seems like a good solution. I'm not sure how much utility you will get from a support under the bar because by the time you hit the yield strength on the attaching bolts and hardware you would already have failed the factory supports. I think it would look clean though and it could be manufactured at home if you have a shop which is a luxury I don't currently enjoy.
 
The clearance definitely exists to "hide" the bar attaching screws in the rail. Angle iron seems like a good solution. I'm not sure how much utility you will get from a support under the bar because by the time you hit the yield strength on the attaching bolts and hardware you would already have failed the factory supports. I think it would look clean though and it could be manufactured at home if you have a shop which is a luxury I don't currently enjoy.


The angle would be mainly to hide the tie-down points and still provide a lower profile to the stock rails. The angle will provide additional attachment opportunity for the crossbars vs only the end bolts.


Design feedback - The tie-down rings: the larger opening with the thinner material ring will end up being a weak point at each end of where the ring ties back into the primary material. Smooth out that junction and reduce the diameter. Hard changes in direction will promote cracking at that point. No need for that large of an opening. (Will also be a bit more pleasing to look at). My 2 cents.
 
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The angle would be mainly to hide the tie-down points and still provide a lower profile to the stock rails. The angle will provide additional attachment opportunity for the crossbars vs only the end bolts.


Design feedback - The tie-down rings: the larger opening with the thinner material ring will end up being a weak point at each end of where the ring ties back into the primary material. Smooth out that junction and reduce the diameter. Hard changes in direction will promote cracking at that point. No need for that large of an opening. (Will also be a bit more pleasing to look at). My 2 cents.

Thanks for the design feedback. What you are seeing is several iterations in. I tried a couple of designs and my ratchet strap hook wouldn't go through. The opening is smaller than it looks. It's not quite 1" and not even that really because it is going to be angled. I measured the ratchet straps that I own and that was what I thought would fit the best for most uses. Originally for my use at least I planned to have them cut out of steel for the strength for just the reason you mentioned.

I think I'll have to do some testing to see exactly how much load they will take before deforming. Also, I realize that it looks kind of stupid with the big "mouse ears" sticking up. The plan is to bend them on a 45 towards the bar so they will be in the profile of the bar and you won't really see them.

I'm juggling a couple of different design considerations. As complexity goes up so does the cost to manufacture them. I'm looking for a one size fits most I guess. Keep the feedback coming though.
 
I like the use of the extruded aluminum on the stock rails. I had bought some aluminum to custom make "Prinsu" like rails but decided against it for now so this is a terrific alternative. subscribing to keep an eye on this...I may be interested in what you have to offer eitek1 depending on design.
 
I like the use of the extruded aluminum on the stock rails. I had bought some aluminum to custom make "Prinsu" like rails but decided against it for now so this is a terrific alternative. subscribing to keep an eye on this...I may be interested in what you have to offer eitek1 depending on design.

As part of the other thread I started about a roof rack, I was playing around and 3D modeled a Prinsu style full length roof rack. I was going to go through the trouble and expense of developing it and decided against it. It was too much time and too much expense if I wasn't doing it for profit. Also, in the other thread the only input I got about features was that it was a bad idea for some reason. I still think it's a good idea...
 
Instead of bent mouse ears for tie down points, how about making the flat stock a trapezoidal form with slots where straps could be attached. Something like this. But pardon the free hand drawn slots.
 

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Instead of bent mouse ears for tie down points, how about making the flat stock a trapezoidal form with slots where straps could be attached. Something like this. But pardon the free hand drawn slots.

The slots would be flush against the rails and you couldn't get anything in the slots. If I made it significantly wider there may be a gap big enough. I can try to draw it up tomorrow and see what it looks like. Actually I'm not a big fan of the "ears" either but didn't see a better option.
 

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