Do you still have the original radiator on your 4runner

still on the original , but i bypassed the transmission cooler inside and added a separate transmission cooler. If the original starts seeping I will change it as milkshake is not possible with my setup.



How much did that set up cost you with bypassing the radiator and adding a transmission cooler?


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I had the milkshake issue on my '98 limited at 177k miles, it cost $2708.77 to remove/rebuild /install transmission and replace radiator. A friend of mine had a '99, his radiator went at 160k... I just sold my '02 sport ed. with 238k miles, it had the original radiator... no issues. My "new" '02 sport ed. has 142k planning on replacing radiator soon.
 
Replaced the original at 246k with a new oem denso unit from camelback toyota about a month ago

Its good peace of mind as the original black plastic top portion was brown and showing signs of age/cracking but no leaks



The radiator on camelback’s website, would that be the same genuine radiator the Toyota dealer would sell?
 
The pink milkshake comes from corrosion. This can be due to road salt (external) or lack of coolant changes (internal). If there is no visible external corrosion and the coolant has been changed (I know the history of mine - always been in the family), pink milkshake is not an issue.

You can't stop the tanks from going bad with heat cycles/age though. I replaced mine early last year at around 275k miles/18 years - the trans cooler was still perfect. I took the radiator apart to check. The top tank was brown and I was worried more about that.

-Charlie
 
190k with original. Holding off on replacement until I can decide if I want to do a full bypass or just replace.

Damn, you guys are really making me want a 5-speed.
Wish I could find a cheap 2000 manual that I could swap over.
 
The pink milkshake comes from corrosion. This can be due to road salt (external) or lack of coolant changes (internal). If there is no visible external corrosion and the coolant has been changed (I know the history of mine - always been in the family), pink milkshake is not an issue.



You can't stop the tanks from going bad with heat cycles/age though. I replaced mine early last year at around 275k miles/18 years - the trans cooler was still perfect. I took the radiator apart to check. The top tank was brown and I was worried more about that.



-Charlie



I can’t see how road salt would cause the strawberry milkshake being it’s an internal issue, but externally could see it being an issue. My 4runner has seen some salty roads in the past, but the radiator looks fine (and the frame for that matter) and isn’t around road salt anymore.


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In my experience its up to the gods haha. My brother's 2000 4runner has 326,000 and my dad's 2001 has 325,000 both on the original radiators. but I've seen radiators go at anywhere from 80,000 to 300,000. So if you're worried about it just replace it to calm your nerves. It's cheap insurance.
 
I can’t see how road salt would cause the strawberry milkshake being it’s an internal issue, but externally could see it being an issue. My 4runner has seen some salty roads in the past, but the radiator looks fine (and the frame for that matter) and isn’t around road salt anymore.
Corrosion has a way of getting places you wouldn't expect. The leak comes from the joint between the outer fittings and the cooler. They are screwed together and have a few o-rings for sealing.

TWzGpXrh.jpg


-Charlie
 
I have replaced my radiator since it was damaged by a mechanic. It worked fine with 180,000 miles on it. I asked the mechanic to remove the radiator before he worked on repairs to my crank shaft. He didn't, and must have hit it with a tool and poked a hole in it. After repairs while driving it home I noticed coolant streaming up over the hood. Long story short, he bought me a new radiator.
 
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Replaced mine in 2017 with a factory radiator to avoid milkshake issues. Install was a breeze, but basically destroyed all the grill fasteners in the process!
 
I've gone to an aluminum 3 row, shorty radiator due to front suspension, and have three brand new ones sitting in the garage.
I'm also using the trans cooler built into it along with an external cooler.
anyone need a new radiator?

My water temps. run consistent at about 180* with the trans at 160-170.
 
I've gone to an aluminum 3 row, shorty radiator due to front suspension, and have three brand new ones sitting in the garage.
I'm also using the trans cooler built into it along with an external cooler.
anyone need a new radiator?

My water temps. run consistent at about 180* with the trans at 160-170.

Where did you buy the spare radiators?
 
Where did you buy the spare radiators?

Unfortunately they weren't meant to be spares, When I bought the truck the previous owner had just put a new radiator in the truck, Spectra plastic and aluminum due to my SAS conversion the long V6 radiator that hung below the frame would not work. I did a 2" body lift when I did the SAS thinking I needed the room, So I bought the Mid length Spectra again plastic and aluminum.

THEN I decided I could re-arrange things and eliminate the body lift, so now that Radiator was too long. So I went to the smallest radiator built for the truck. a 4 cyl. manual trans for a Tacoma, all Brass Koyorad. And it just wouldn't cool a 5000# v6 truck while wheeling.

So the latest version is a 3 row all aluminum Champion, and honestly it could be too much radiator if that's even possible. That's part of running the trans cooler, partly because the auto can use all the cooling it can use wheeling, and the buffer the water temps.

All of them were in the truck less than weeks. I also have a custom built aluminum shroud with a 16" spal fan.
I've gone back to the stock fan due to space.
somewhere I have picks of the install.


ok, I bought them all from my local rad. shop I've done business with for 20 years.

I know more about the dumb radiators in these trucks than I need to.
 

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Oem @277k

Im still having the OEM radiator.
I replaced top upper plastic cover @26xK as aperventive mai tenance sine it was about to crack.
my truck is 98 2.7 4x4.
i had a couple of tiny collisions from sides which made a little crack on the aluminum body of a radiator but sealed it with liqumoly radiator stop leak. @ 255k
 
I don't know how to tell for sure, but I suspect mine's original @ 290k. That said, mine's a manual. I'll do a flush and replace one of these days I suppose, but keeps a rock solid temp in all weather and driving conditions.
 
I was looking at this radiator for a preventative maintenance @ 280K miles :

https://parts.olathetoyota.com/oem-...1bm5lciZ5PTIwMDImdD1zcjUmZT0zLTRsLXY2LWdhcw==

But when I called my local dealership to get this one installed, they said the direct replacement for my VIN was around $425. He said he did not have a "value" line for my truck.

Does that sound right? $425 vs the one in the link?..that's a huge disparity in pricing.

I haven't called my local toyota parts dealer yet for a quote on a OEM radiator, but the link that you just provided is a Denso radiator by just looking up that part number on google. The reviews on amazon aren't that great and not sure what manufacture I'm going to do at this point on purchasing a radiator. https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-16410-YZZAJ-Radiator-4Runner/dp/B008CLJ66I

Another thing is, if you bring your vehicle into any mechanic they will not warranty there work if you provide the parts/radiator.
 
Im still having the OEM radiator.
I replaced top upper plastic cover @26xK as aperventive mai tenance sine it was about to crack.
my truck is 98 2.7 4x4.
i had a couple of tiny collisions from sides which made a little crack on the aluminum body of a radiator but sealed it with liqumoly radiator stop leak. @ 255k

If you have an automatic tranny I would replace that radiator ASAP. When that bandaid fails, get your cooling system flushed. That Liqumoly could screw up your heater core and will be worse then your radiator going out, due to the labor or cost (taking apart the whole dashboard) if you bring it in to a mechanic to get fixed. I used that stop radiator crap and it clogged my heater core in my 92 Mazda 626. I didn't even bother fixing it because the car was garbage anyways and sold it before it got really cold outside for 500 bucks. I told the buyer of course but he didn't care.
 

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