Budzilla825
New member
That makes me feel a lot better. I was using my floor jack to lift up the bar, but I was starting with the end pieces no for the life of me could not get them to line up with the holes on the control arms.
Unfortunately it is super easy for the front lower holes to strip out. Both of mine are stripped, and I'm running longer bolts with a new nut on the back side of the welded-nut now to hold it all together.That makes me feel a lot better. I was using my floor jack to lift up the bar, but I was starting with the end pieces no for the life of me could not get them to line up with the holes on the control arms.
That makes me feel a lot better. I was using my floor jack to lift up the bar, but I was starting with the end pieces no for the life of me could not get them to line up with the holes on the control arms.
C59-352 with GS59-574 or IMS/MRA option up front for 3"Was planning on going with the Eibach Pro-Truck kit... but they seem to be putting off the release for the heavy duty springs for the rear... searched the forum and boom this thread came up.
Mike, which options would be best for my rig with all the added weight?
Specs:
'16 SR5
Front Bumper: Replaced with Steel: +230#
Rear Bumper: Replaced with Steel and tire carrier: +200# (estimated)
Full Size Roof Rack: +120#
We also tow about 3500# about 3-4 days a month.
Also have that annoying tilt on the drivers side.
Preferable NOT the baby blue colors for the springs :crazy:
Looking to get about 3" in the front and 2 to 2.5" in the rear... level is best or slight rake is fine.
Thanks!
Got my full kit with UCAs. When installing, what bolts/nuts need to be torqued while the wheels are on the ground?
Yeah, the front is about 1" lower. A 1" lift with new parts would have it be around 21" hub to fender.Mike, I have a 2011 Toyota 4Runner Trail with KDSS. Front suspension is original with 115,000 miles. Rear suspension is original except for Bilstein 4600 shocks installed at 35,000 miles due to a leaking OEM shock. The vehicle has recommended size Michelin tires and no after market accessories that would add extra weight. I do not want to off-road (I have driven on forest service roads 15-20 times). My wife also drives this vehicle and she wants a comfortable and improved ride. Most of the time, this vehicle is driven empty with only 1 or 2 front passengers. I rarely carry cargo and if I do, it’s no more than 200 lbs and often less. If you’re thinking my most frequent daily obstacle is a speed bump, you would be correct.
Suspension height as measured from the center of the wheel to the bottom edge of the fender with a full tank of fuel is 19” on the front, both left and right, 21.5” on the rear, both left and right. I’m estimating front coil sag is 1 inch and rear coil sag is 0.5” or less. Rear suspension height drops to 21” if I put 200 lbs in the rear cargo space next to the liftgate. I’m looking for 1” front lift and I’ve narrowed down my search to Bilstein or Dobinson.
I thinking of buying assembled C59-238 front coils with GS59-700 front struts which should bring the front lift back to factory height plus 1-1.25 inches for a total of 21-21.25 inches after break in.
How would this compare to a Bilstein B8 6112 setup with 1” lift and springs that appear to be about 10 percent stronger than stock? After reading product descriptions, I think the Dobinson springs are also 10 percent stronger than stock and one inch longer. So, Bilstein lift is achieved by a snap ring setting and Dobinson lift by spring height. I’m assuming Dobinson spring manufacturing quality is equal or better. If either brand of springs sag 1 inch after 100,000 miles, I’ll be back to stock height which is OK. Will this Dobinson setup offer equal or better ride quality than Bilstein 6112 over the next 100,000 miles?
I’m assuming Bilstein 5100 with any set of springs would offer a ride that’s harsher than Dobinson because it has a monotube design. Correct?
I’m assuming the existing rear coils and shocks are adequate and compatible. When the Bilstein 4600’s wear out, or the OEM rear springs lose another 0.25-0.50 inches lift, I think C59-323 rear coils with GS59-705 rear shocks would be a good replacement.
I’m not under pressure to rush an install. What’s the approximate lead time for assembled black C59-238 front coils with black GS59-700 front struts or any another setup that you recommend? I’m willing to call you to discuss alternate recommendations if that would help.
I’m assuming you strongly recommend opening KDSS accumulator shutter valves a maximum of 3 turns even though this lift is 1”.
Front lower strut bolt, UCA bolts, and LCA bolts if you undo those. Anything with a rubber bushing because they have fixed sleeves in the middle that if tightened up in the air, will add preload and cause it to not flex properly.
Rear shocks don't matter since they don't rotate/twist the same way the fronts do.
No, I always google it and it finds numerous threads in this forum for the answers to that.Mike, do you know the torque specs on those?
Mike, do you know the torque specs on those?
Front lower strut bolt, UCA bolts, and LCA bolts if you undo those. Anything with a rubber bushing because they have fixed sleeves in the middle that if tightened up in the air, will add preload and cause it to not flex properly.
Rear shocks don't matter since they don't rotate/twist the same way the fronts do.
Cool!!Done and turned out great.
Cool!!
Wow, what a nice view out from the backyard there!!
Done and turned out great.
Forgot the important shot.