Dobinsons 5th Gen T4R Suspension options - from Exit Offroad

That makes me feel a lot better. I was using my floor jack to lift up the bar, but I was starting with the end pieces no for the life of me could not get them to line up with the holes on the control arms.
 
That makes me feel a lot better. I was using my floor jack to lift up the bar, but I was starting with the end pieces no for the life of me could not get them to line up with the holes on the control arms.
Unfortunately it is super easy for the front lower holes to strip out. Both of mine are stripped, and I'm running longer bolts with a new nut on the back side of the welded-nut now to hold it all together.
 
That makes me feel a lot better. I was using my floor jack to lift up the bar, but I was starting with the end pieces no for the life of me could not get them to line up with the holes on the control arms.

I used ratchet straps to pull the KDSS bar up and back into the LCA. For the rear that lined up quite easily with the floor jack - I believe I reconnected that one after the truck was back on the ground!

Image 1 is a side profile of the drivers side front. It shows how I "pulled" the KDSS piston into the frame.

Image 2 isn't great, but you can see I then used a second strap to "pull" the swaybar into the LCA - the bolt holes are visible and fully lined up
 

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What options?

Was planning on going with the Eibach Pro-Truck kit... but they seem to be putting off the release for the heavy duty springs for the rear... searched the forum and boom this thread came up.

Mike, which options would be best for my rig with all the added weight?
Specs:
'16 SR5
Front Bumper: Replaced with Steel: +230#
Rear Bumper: Replaced with Steel and tire carrier: +200# (estimated)
Full Size Roof Rack: +120#

We also tow about 3500# about 3-4 days a month.
Also have that annoying tilt on the drivers side.
Preferable NOT the baby blue colors for the springs :crazy:

Looking to get about 3" in the front and 2 to 2.5" in the rear... level is best or slight rake is fine.

Thanks!
 
Was planning on going with the Eibach Pro-Truck kit... but they seem to be putting off the release for the heavy duty springs for the rear... searched the forum and boom this thread came up.

Mike, which options would be best for my rig with all the added weight?
Specs:
'16 SR5
Front Bumper: Replaced with Steel: +230#
Rear Bumper: Replaced with Steel and tire carrier: +200# (estimated)
Full Size Roof Rack: +120#

We also tow about 3500# about 3-4 days a month.
Also have that annoying tilt on the drivers side.
Preferable NOT the baby blue colors for the springs :crazy:

Looking to get about 3" in the front and 2 to 2.5" in the rear... level is best or slight rake is fine.

Thanks!
C59-352 with GS59-574 or IMS/MRA option up front for 3"
C59-327 with GS59-701 or IMS/MRA option for 2" in the rear, but assuming that heavy trailer probably has a heavy tongue weight, you may need to add airbags into it, or go with the stronger C59-329. They will be taller until they're loaded down. If you want it more level, then the 327 coils with airbags is what I'd suggest. The 329's are only made in teal, but the 327's are made in all 3 colors, as well as the fronts.

If your lean is bad, then front and rear spacers, PS59-4030 and PS59-4025 would be the ones you'll need.

It can all be pieced together here: Dobinsons 1" to 3.5" Build-A-Kit Toyota 4Runner 2010-21 | Exit Offroad
 
Looking for the Best "Grocery Getter" Setup

Mike, I have a 2011 Toyota 4Runner Trail with KDSS. Front suspension is original with 115,000 miles. Rear suspension is original except for Bilstein 4600 shocks installed at 35,000 miles due to a leaking OEM shock. The vehicle has recommended size Michelin tires and no after market accessories that would add extra weight. I do not want to off-road (I have driven on forest service roads 15-20 times). My wife also drives this vehicle and she wants a comfortable and improved ride. Most of the time, this vehicle is driven empty with only 1 or 2 front passengers. I rarely carry cargo and if I do, it’s no more than 200 lbs and often less. If you’re thinking my most frequent daily obstacle is a speed bump, you would be correct.

Suspension height as measured from the center of the wheel to the bottom edge of the fender with a full tank of fuel is 19” on the front, both left and right, 21.5” on the rear, both left and right. I’m estimating front coil sag is 1 inch and rear coil sag is 0.5” or less. Rear suspension height drops to 21” if I put 200 lbs in the rear cargo space next to the liftgate. I’m looking for 1” front lift and I’ve narrowed down my search to Bilstein or Dobinson.

I thinking of buying assembled C59-238 front coils with GS59-700 front struts which should bring the front lift back to factory height plus 1-1.25 inches for a total of 21-21.25 inches after break in.

How would this compare to a Bilstein B8 6112 setup with 1” lift and springs that appear to be about 10 percent stronger than stock? After reading product descriptions, I think the Dobinson springs are also 10 percent stronger than stock and one inch longer. So, Bilstein lift is achieved by a snap ring setting and Dobinson lift by spring height. I’m assuming Dobinson spring manufacturing quality is equal or better. If either brand of springs sag 1 inch after 100,000 miles, I’ll be back to stock height which is OK. Will this Dobinson setup offer equal or better ride quality than Bilstein 6112 over the next 100,000 miles?

I’m assuming Bilstein 5100 with any set of springs would offer a ride that’s harsher than Dobinson because it has a monotube design. Correct?

I’m assuming the existing rear coils and shocks are adequate and compatible. When the Bilstein 4600’s wear out, or the OEM rear springs lose another 0.25-0.50 inches lift, I think C59-323 rear coils with GS59-705 rear shocks would be a good replacement.

I’m not under pressure to rush an install. What’s the approximate lead time for assembled black C59-238 front coils with black GS59-700 front struts or any another setup that you recommend? I’m willing to call you to discuss alternate recommendations if that would help.

I’m assuming you strongly recommend opening KDSS accumulator shutter valves a maximum of 3 turns even though this lift is 1”.
 
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Got my full kit with UCAs. When installing, what bolts/nuts need to be torqued while the wheels are on the ground?
 
Got my full kit with UCAs. When installing, what bolts/nuts need to be torqued while the wheels are on the ground?

Front lower strut bolt, UCA bolts, and LCA bolts if you undo those. Anything with a rubber bushing because they have fixed sleeves in the middle that if tightened up in the air, will add preload and cause it to not flex properly.

Rear shocks don't matter since they don't rotate/twist the same way the fronts do.
 
Mike, I have a 2011 Toyota 4Runner Trail with KDSS. Front suspension is original with 115,000 miles. Rear suspension is original except for Bilstein 4600 shocks installed at 35,000 miles due to a leaking OEM shock. The vehicle has recommended size Michelin tires and no after market accessories that would add extra weight. I do not want to off-road (I have driven on forest service roads 15-20 times). My wife also drives this vehicle and she wants a comfortable and improved ride. Most of the time, this vehicle is driven empty with only 1 or 2 front passengers. I rarely carry cargo and if I do, it’s no more than 200 lbs and often less. If you’re thinking my most frequent daily obstacle is a speed bump, you would be correct.

Suspension height as measured from the center of the wheel to the bottom edge of the fender with a full tank of fuel is 19” on the front, both left and right, 21.5” on the rear, both left and right. I’m estimating front coil sag is 1 inch and rear coil sag is 0.5” or less. Rear suspension height drops to 21” if I put 200 lbs in the rear cargo space next to the liftgate. I’m looking for 1” front lift and I’ve narrowed down my search to Bilstein or Dobinson.

I thinking of buying assembled C59-238 front coils with GS59-700 front struts which should bring the front lift back to factory height plus 1-1.25 inches for a total of 21-21.25 inches after break in.

How would this compare to a Bilstein B8 6112 setup with 1” lift and springs that appear to be about 10 percent stronger than stock? After reading product descriptions, I think the Dobinson springs are also 10 percent stronger than stock and one inch longer. So, Bilstein lift is achieved by a snap ring setting and Dobinson lift by spring height. I’m assuming Dobinson spring manufacturing quality is equal or better. If either brand of springs sag 1 inch after 100,000 miles, I’ll be back to stock height which is OK. Will this Dobinson setup offer equal or better ride quality than Bilstein 6112 over the next 100,000 miles?

I’m assuming Bilstein 5100 with any set of springs would offer a ride that’s harsher than Dobinson because it has a monotube design. Correct?

I’m assuming the existing rear coils and shocks are adequate and compatible. When the Bilstein 4600’s wear out, or the OEM rear springs lose another 0.25-0.50 inches lift, I think C59-323 rear coils with GS59-705 rear shocks would be a good replacement.

I’m not under pressure to rush an install. What’s the approximate lead time for assembled black C59-238 front coils with black GS59-700 front struts or any another setup that you recommend? I’m willing to call you to discuss alternate recommendations if that would help.

I’m assuming you strongly recommend opening KDSS accumulator shutter valves a maximum of 3 turns even though this lift is 1”.
Yeah, the front is about 1" lower. A 1" lift with new parts would have it be around 21" hub to fender.

The 238 coils are only made in the teal color. They're in stock at present along with the struts.

The 6112's do ride well, especially with minimal lift. So do the Dobinsons. I've never owned them or had someone that's put 100k miles on them give me long term feedback, so I can't make that comparison for you. There are guys in the USA that have already put more than 100k miles on their twin tube Dobinsons suspension with no problems at all.

5100's are different because they're digressive valved (harder to softer) instead of regular linear valving that Dobinsons uses. Stock shocks are linear. Yes, they lift by preloading the coils.

There's only so many ways you can make a coil spring, and Dobinsons has been doing it since 1953, so they're pretty good at their job now.

Opening the KDSS valves is so you can wrangle the sway bars during the installation, and also so that the vehicle won't try to create a lean. If you lift it and don't allow the system to rebalance, it can create a lean by pushing or pulling on one side. It's the way I do it, but some other guys say they never touch it. I don't know how much they struggle doing it that way.

https://exitoffroad.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/KDSS-Instructions-4Runner-Exit-Offroad.pdf
 
Front lower strut bolt, UCA bolts, and LCA bolts if you undo those. Anything with a rubber bushing because they have fixed sleeves in the middle that if tightened up in the air, will add preload and cause it to not flex properly.

Rear shocks don't matter since they don't rotate/twist the same way the fronts do.

Mike, do you know the torque specs on those?
 
Front lower strut bolt, UCA bolts, and LCA bolts if you undo those. Anything with a rubber bushing because they have fixed sleeves in the middle that if tightened up in the air, will add preload and cause it to not flex properly.

Rear shocks don't matter since they don't rotate/twist the same way the fronts do.

Thanks Mike!
 
Website updates

Hey guys, I've been working on the website more all week and trying to get it better organized with all the options, since there are too many of them!!! Also this new method will clearly show if an item is on backorder or not, plus you can click the small square box to the right of a selection to go look at that specific item for more information and details.

I've broken up the suspension kit builder pages a bit more. All 3 main kit options are now on this page here:
Full Kits - 5th Gen 4Runner Archives | Exit Offroad

The 1st kit (Dobinsons 1" to 3.5" Build-A-Kit Toyota 4Runner 2010-21 (All Options) | Exit Offroad)has every possible option and combination, including all 3 types of struts and shocks. With this kit, you could piece together any combination you can come up with, as some have chosen IMS front, twin tube rear, or MRA front and IMS rear, or whatever you'd like to do. It also lists all the front UCA options and everything else you can add to the kit if you want it.

The next is an IMS-Specific kit with only IMS struts and shocks, but all other options are still all listed. (Dobinsons IMS Suspension Kit Toyota 4Runner 2010-21 | Exit Offroad)

The last is an MRA-Specific kit, for the 3-way adjustable external resi struts and shocks. (Dobinsons MRA Suspension Kit Toyota 4Runner 2010-21 | Exit Offroad)

Let me know if you see anything missing, or have any suggestions. I thought about doing a twin-tube only kit, but I feel like having one that shows everything all on one page is a better idea than just the twin tubes, especially since a lot of people have gone with IMS up front for adjustable height, and twin tube in the rear to save some bucks.
 
[MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION] just ordered a kit for the wife runner as well as sliders and new UCA's. Thanks for breaking it all down in your posts and the website made it super easy to choose the right kit for our uses. Now to wait and then the install right before xmas haha. Cheers and cant wait!
 
Done and turned out great.
 

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