Double DIN Input Sought

Thanks everyone. Long day, finally almost done...

Indeed, going with a mini amp, leaning toward that Alpine Power Pack (KTP-445U). If "this" becomes an addiction, and I later desire more power, I'll do so...

Our Runner is for family camping trips and Tahoe runs in the winter; and with that, is trickle-charged most of the time.

I'm much more comfortable in the engine bay compared to a project like this! I found this cool stereo wiring info:

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/stereodetail/2029.html

Oh, while reading here, I found this post showing a photo of the stock amp:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/189846-stock-amp-size-2.html#post1935741
 
look at [MENTION=113939]JerkyDrewster[/MENTION]build thread, he detailed his stereo install very nicely.

If you sourced a true compact amp it's very likely you can squeeze it in behind the dash and factory stereo, where the factory amp was. I also think one could be "hidden" under the steering column area but I've not tried.

My stereo project is pending for the spring when I tackle the doors and everything that goes with that.

Keep us posted :rockon:
 
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look at [MENTION=113939]JerkyDrewster[/MENTION]build thread, he detailed his stereo install very nicely.

If you sourced a true compact amp it's very likely you can squeeze it in behind the dash and factory stereo, where the factory amp was. I also think one could be "hidden" under the steering column area but I've not tried.

My stereo project is pending for the spring when I tackle the doors and everything that goes with that.

Keep us posted :rockon:

Happy to have that Pioneer AVH-4100NEX 2-DIN arriving soon.

And, I just ordered that Alpine mini amp and harness:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VVYL46/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1SX1R00E2EUMR&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQJ8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

It will make my "build" thread, at some point. I will likely ask for install help there, if uncertain how to connect everything. To start, while I very much want the amp tucked away in the dash, what about accessibility to settings? That Alpine amp has front and rear gain controls...

g500KTP445U-o_powerpack2.jpg


Maybe install the amp under or behind the glove box for better access? Or, maybe it's a set it and forget it type of thing? If the later, then I'd gladly tuck it away behind the HU...

Thanks much!
 
I'm much more comfortable in the engine bay compared to a project like this!


If you can change your plugs you can wire your stereo. It's really, really, really easy. Hell, with the metra harness, it's even color coded. lol

What have you decided for front speakers?
 
If you can change your plugs you can wire your stereo. It's really, really, really easy. Hell, with the metra harness, it's even color coded. lol

What have you decided for front speakers?

Appreciate the vote of confidence.

My home system is actually pretty elaborate with a tactile transducer in the crawl space, under the seating area. I jusust installed an electric sub-panel on the far side of our home, so I'm not adverse to wiring per se - just damn ignorant with car audio these days! The receiver I just purchased, thanks to this thread, is so beyond anything I ever had or even used before.

Thanks again.
 
Like has been said, it's an easy install. If you can mess with 220V Romex in an attic and not start a fire you can probably do this. Probably. Lol

I'm interested in a hidden amp install as I am contemplating a similar upgrade when I do the door speakers and add a sub and I don't want to give up the under seat space.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 
Appreciate the vote of confidence.

My home system is actually pretty elaborate with a tactile transducer in the crawl space, under the seating area. I jusust installed an electric sub-panel on the far side of our home, so I'm not adverse to wiring per se - just damn ignorant with car audio these days! The receiver I just purchased, thanks to this thread, is so beyond anything I ever had or even used before.

Thanks again.


Like the guy below me just said, if you can wire 120v you'll be fine with 12v. The only real difference between the two is one is way more likely to kill you if you make a mistake. lol


Like has been said, it's an easy install. If you can mess with 220V Romex in an attic and not start a fire you can probably do this. Probably. Lol

I'm interested in a hidden amp install as I am contemplating a similar upgrade when I do the door speakers and add a sub and I don't want to give up the under seat space.


I have one of my amps tucked away in the passenger side rear quarter panel. Getting power to it isn't bad and it's yet to trip the overheat circuit even on the hottest days. Heat was my main concern when I put it there. If you use that spot just make sure you get the system tuned perfectly before you button it back up. It's not the easiest place to get to. lol
 
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Like has been said, it's an easy install. If you can mess with 220V Romex in an attic and not start a fire you can probably do this. Probably. Lol

I'm interested in a hidden amp install as I am contemplating a similar upgrade when I do the door speakers and add a sub and I don't want to give up the under seat space.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I will most certainly let you know Mike.

For 115 bucks delivered (free one day too!) and many very good reviews on various websites for that Alpine amp, that seemed like the clear choice for me. Its power output, as measured by someone on the web, is understated too...
 
Like the guy below me just said, if you can wire 120v you'll be fine with 12v. The only real difference between the two is one is way more likely to kill you if you make a mistake. lol





I have one of my amps tucked away in the passenger side rear quarter panel. Getting power to it isn't bad and it's yet to trip the overheat circuit even on the hottest days. Heat was my main concern when I put it there. If you use that spot just make sure you get the system tuned perfectly before you button it back up. It's not the easiest place to get to. lol

With respect to tuning, can you elaborate or point me on where to learn more? On the amp I just purchased, the only variables I see are front and rear gain controls. Those I believe work in unison with the volume control...
 
You'll need component speakers in the front and anything in the rear. I was looking at a matched set of Rockford Fosgate speakers all around.

Rockford Fosgate Prime R152-S 5.25-Inch Component Speaker System for the front: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X786XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pTWgAb4FDPSZB

And a pair of Rockford Fosgate R1525X2 Prime 5.25-Inch Full Range Coaxial Speaker for the rear: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HX9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9TWgAbHZVHTK0

I was also looking around a compact amp in the same size and price class but I like the Alpine you found :thumb: and might switch to that.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 
With respect to tuning, can you elaborate or point me on where to learn more? On the amp I just purchased, the only variables I see are front and rear gain controls. Those I believe work in unison with the volume control...

You can read up an car audio tuning for days so I'll just nutshell it here.

Audio travels in a sine wave. The more power you put into it the more distorted(called clipping) that wave gets. By tuning a system you set the volume of the deck and then the gain of the amp to the point just under the clipping point.

A proper way to do this is with an oscilloscope. This method allows you to see a visual representation of the sine wave. As you increase volume you'll see the wave clip. Most guys don't have this so you tune by ear.

Just cause a deck goes to 40 doesn't mean that it's a clean signal all the way to 40. More often then not even good decks will clip in the 80% of max volume range. So we need to find the max volume setting the deck can handle before clipping.

Starting with just the deck and speakers hooked up to power. Play some really bass intensive music, or get specific tuning frequencies online, and turn up the volume till you hear the music distort. Back the volume down and note the number. Let's say the deck goes to 40 but in this case it clips at 35. 35 is your max volume for clean music.

Now you simply hook up the amp, turn the amp gains all the way down and set the deck to 35. Play your bass heavy music, I prefer Slayer, and turn up the gain until the music clips. Do this for both front and rear. Now your gains are set. You now have the most clean power for your set-up. Most guys will leave it like that but we'll go another step since you have front and rear gains,

When tuned properly you get what's called a sound stage. It's a fancy ass word for music that sounds like it's in front of you. Sit in the rig with the doors closed and listen closely to music you prefer. It doesn't need to be bass heavy for this. You want it to sound like all the tunes are coming from the front. Since those Polks carry some serious punch you'll probably find that it's centered slightly behind you. Now you turn the rear gain down slightly until it centers in front of you.

That's tuning a system in a nutshell. I've done a lot of systems over the years. When I did the one in my rig I tuned it by ear. A few weeks later I took it to a buddy with an oscilloscope. It was set almost perfect by ear. lol


EDIT:

On those pair of Polk Audio DB651 6.5s I found in the garage... I just realized that I fab'd something in my other car for them, so I'd like to keep them for that ride...

So, I'm in the market for four 6.5" speakers. Just get the same Polks? 56 bucks a pair at Amazon:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0PF9G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Anything comparable or better for the price? $112 for four speakers seems like a pretty good deal...


Put those Polks in the rear. For the price they're the best coaxial speakers on the market. Get some components for the front. You'll be replacing the factory tweeter that way. The new crossover box can be mounted between the window and the interior sheet metal of the front doors. I use these and highly recommend them if there in your price bracket:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SNMQDQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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You'll need component speakers in the front and anything in the rear. I was looking at a matched set of Rockford Fosgate speakers all around.

Rockford Fosgate Prime R152-S 5.25-Inch Component Speaker System for the front: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X786XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pTWgAb4FDPSZB

And a pair of Rockford Fosgate R1525X2 Prime 5.25-Inch Full Range Coaxial Speaker for the rear: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HX9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9TWgAbHZVHTK0

I was also looking around a compact amp in the same size and price class but I like the Alpine you found :thumb: and might switch to that.

Thanks Mike. I thought the fronts were 6.5s? The rears are 5.25 or 5.5. It seems that 6.5 can be made to fit...

You can read up an car audio tuning for days so I'll just nutshell it here.

Audio travels in a sine wave. The more power you put into it the more distorted(called clipping) that wave gets. By tuning a system you set the volume of the deck and then the gain of the amp to the point just under the clipping point.

A proper way to do this is with an oscilloscope. This method allows you to see a visual representation of the sine wave. As you increase volume you'll see the wave clip. Most guys don't have this so you tune by ear.

Just cause a deck goes to 40 doesn't mean that it's a clean signal all the way to 40. More often then not even good decks will clip in the 80% of max volume range. So we need to find the max volume setting the deck can handle before clipping.

Starting with just the deck and speakers hooked up to power. Play some really bass intensive music, or get specific tuning frequencies online, and turn up the volume till you hear the music distort. Back the volume down and note the number. Let's say the deck goes to 40 but in this case it clips at 35. 35 is your max volume for clean music.

Now you simply hook up the amp, turn the amp gains all the way down and set the deck to 35. Play your bass heavy music, I prefer Slayer, and turn up the gain until the music clips. Do this for both front and rear. Now your gains are set. You now have the most clean power for your set-up. Most guys will leave it like that but we'll go another step since you have front and rear gains,

When tuned properly you get what's called a sound stage. It's a fancy ass word for music that sounds like it's in front of you. Sit in the rig with the doors closed and listen closely to music you prefer. It doesn't need to be bass heavy for this. You want it to sound like all the tunes are coming from the front. Since those Polks carry some serious punch you'll probably find that it's centered slightly behind you. Now you turn the rear gain down slightly until it centers in front of you.

That's tuning a system in a nutshell. I've done a lot of systems over the years. When I did the one in my rig I tuned it by ear. A few weeks later I took it to a buddy with an oscilloscope. It was set almost perfect by ear. lol

theesotericone - That really helps. Thanks so much for making the time to explain.

I found this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrOoOxO6A1s

Well, up into that attic I go again. Thanks again.
 
My complete setup, does everything I need and is heads and tails better than the stock setup.

$300 Joying double din. Slight trimming to the center trim piece.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTQUKK1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They had a deal on this for $150
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CICTR2K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Got mine for $65, they're going for $51 now, pretty decent bass response, fit with a little trimming to the stock speaker mounts.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XALZKVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Got mine for $148, it's a little more now.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007WQ7JE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wiring harness
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQJ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had been looking at the carjoying unit for awhile, really liked this one. I can hotspot my phone and listen to Pandora, also has a two USB ports for accessories plus a spot for a internal storage, have all my music on.
 
EDIT:

Put those Polks in the rear. For the price they're the best coaxial speakers on the market. Get some components for the front. You'll be replacing the factory tweeter that way. The new crossover box can be mounted between the window and the interior sheet metal of the front doors. I use these and highly recommend them if there in your price bracket:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SNMQDQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just saw your edit or addition.

Dang, I just realized that those Polks are coaxial. I somehow thought they were these Polks (component):

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-D...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EFQDCQQFXJZF52A947MD

Those Infinity speakers are within budget alright. They'll be fine with small Alpine amp?
 
Those Infinity speakers are within budget alright. They'll be fine with small Alpine amp?

As long as you give them full gain in front you should be fine. Infinity does really well with a wide range of RMS. They will sound slightly better the higher RMS you can give them but as long as that Alpine delivers a true 45w you'll be fine. The only people I've heard complain about these speakers sounding tinny are people not amping them. They're not cheap but they are some of the cleanest sounding speakers in that price range your gonna find.
 
As long as you give them full gain in front you should be fine. Infinity does really well with a wide range of RMS. They will sound slightly better the higher RMS you can give them but as long as that Alpine delivers a true 45w you'll be fine. The only people I've heard complain about these speakers sounding tinny are people not amping them. They're not cheap but they are some of the cleanest sounding speakers in that price range your gonna find.

Sold. Those Infinity speakers will arrive tomorrow.

By the end of the week I'll have:

HU
Harness
Amp
Front speakers (already have rear)

I realize some replace the speaker wire of course, Dynamat the doors, but that's something I'd like to consider later.

Anything else I need for a seemless install?

Oh, the camera/s.... The HU has a provision for a backup camera, two I believe. In case I don't make those purchases now, so I don't need re-gain access to the rear of the HU later, are there connectors that I should purchase and connect at the time install to make camera connections easier later?

Along those lines, any other connections to the rear of the HU, as getting those cables now, would seem prudent. Looks like an aux input (1), USBs (2), composite video output (to reach the rear seats)...
 
Sold. Those Infinity speakers will arrive tomorrow.

By the end of the week I'll have:

HU
Harness
Amp
Front speakers (already have rear)

I realize some replace the speaker wire of course, Dynamat the doors, but that's something I'd like to consider later.

Anything else I need for a seemless install?

Oh, the camera/s.... The HU has a provision for a backup camera, two I believe. In case I don't make those purchases now, so I don't need re-gain access to the rear of the HU later, are there connectors that I should purchase and connect at the time install to make camera connections easier later?

Along those lines, any other connections to the rear of the HU, as getting those cables now, would seem prudent. Looks like an aux input (1), USBs (2), composite video output (to reach the rear seats)...

The head unit is easy to pull out and get to again, I wouldn't kill myself trying to cover all the bases in advance.
 
I have removed my HU many many times since I installed it. The rear camera will need to be tapped into the reverse light and ran all the way to the back of the head unit. I believe it is a purple wire. If you have the camera already you can plug it in, otherwise you will have to remove everything.
 

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