Double DIN Input Sought

infantry503 said:
I have removed my HU many many times since I installed it. The rear camera will need to be tapped into the reverse light and ran all the way to the back of the head unit. I believe it is a purple wire. If you have the camera already you can plug it in, otherwise you will have to remove everything.
Click to expand...

FWIW
there is a bypass kit you can buy that allows the BU cam to operate on demand, vs only when in reverse. Cheap and easy to find on Amazon.
 
octanejunkie said:
FWIW
there is a bypass kit you can buy that allows the BU cam to operate on demand, vs only when in reverse. Cheap and easy to find on Amazon.
Click to expand...

Interesting. Since two cameras are possible with this HU, I'd like to do one that activates when going in reverse, and the other as you describe.

I think I'll start shopping for cameras now. Also a rack. Think the other camera will be forward-facing, up high...

Thank you both.
 
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TonyB66 said:
Interesting. Since two cameras as possible with this HU, I'd like to do one that activates when going in reverse, and the other as you describe.

I think I'll start shopping for cameras now. Also a rack. Think the other camera will be forward-facing, up high...

Thank you both.
Click to expand...

You might want to look into a dash cam, so you can record the video - it has already proved invaluable to me in my rear-end accident
 
octanejunkie said:
FWIW
there is a bypass kit you can buy that allows the BU cam to operate on demand, vs only when in reverse. Cheap and easy to find on Amazon.
Click to expand...

I have mine set up so I can just press the camera view on my screen and it turns on. The head unit also has the option to switch between camera 1 and camera 2
 
octanejunkie said:
You might want to look into a dash cam, so you can record the video - it has already proved invaluable to me in my rear-end accident
Click to expand...

I actually have a rear view mirror w/ camera that I could install in the Runner. Almost everyone in Asia has them. I'll think about that Mike, thanks.

infantry503 - May I ask what cameras you used? I imagine RCA connectors to the HU? The screen resolution on the Pioneer is WVGA (800 x 480). So, no need for a camera with more resolution...
 
TonyB66 said:
I actually have a rear view mirror w/ camera that I could install in the Runner. Almost everyone in Asia has them. I'll think about that Mike, thanks.

infantry503 - May I ask what cameras you used? I imagine RCA connectors to the HU? The screen resolution on the Pioneer is WVGA (800 x 480). So, no need for a camera with more resolution...
Click to expand...

When I bought my HU the previous owner gave me a kenwood cmos 230 camera. It is 1 video cable on the harness along with power and ground. The video cable hooks into the brown input on the deck that is right below the USB/HDMI ports and the ground and power T tap into the existing ground and power on the back of the deck. I ran my cables from the back along the driver side interior trim and down along the door sill. Fairly easy to run the wires, just used a plastic piece to pull the panel slightly back and tucked the wires carefully behind the interior trim. You could also take off the headliner and run it that way, or even the interior side panels and "professionally" wire it.
 
TonyB66 said:
Sold. Those Infinity speakers will arrive tomorrow.

By the end of the week I'll have:

HU
Harness
Amp
Front speakers (already have rear)

I realize some replace the speaker wire of course, Dynamat the doors, but that's something I'd like to consider later.

Anything else I need for a seemless install?
Click to expand...


Your gonna want to get at least ten feet of speaker wire for the crossover to new tweeter connection. Using the old speaker wiring is fine if you must but new wires will be pretty easy to run once the panels are off. Just sayin. lol

You'll want the usual 20 gauge electrical connectors as well as some butt end connectors for the harness connections. You'll also want a 9v battery to test phase before you hook each speaker to the head unit. You hook the + and - speaker wire to the + and - of the battery. If it's in phase(polarity is correct basically) the cone on the speaker will push out. You want to make sure all 4 speakers are in phase. If one's not it's easier to reverse the head unit hook up then remove the mounted speaker.

As far as dynamat goes, it is so, so worth it. I know you have other priorities but when your ready just set aside a day and do the doors and drivers foot well at least. Also, don't buy dynamat. It's just over-priced butyl that has a cool name. There's some stuff I got from Amazon that's as thick, as sticky, as good, and 1/3 of the price. I used those savings to put in those fancy Infinity speakers I linked you to. lol

As far as the back up camera goes, the unit you buy will have all the wiring. It's easy enough to pull the head unit back out to hook up power, ground and feed. I'd just hold off until you have the unit.
 
theesotericone said:
As far as dynamat goes, it is so, so worth it. I know you have other priorities but when your ready just set aside a day and do the doors and drivers foot well at least. Also, don't buy dynamat. It's just over-priced butyl that has a cool name. There's some stuff I got from Amazon that's as thick, as sticky, as good, and 1/3 of the price. I used those savings to put in those fancy Infinity speakers I linked you to. lol
Click to expand...

I've used ratmat as it's way cheaper than Dynamat. (I used the "Dynmat" name previously as most people understand the association). But agree, you are going to be in the doors already, if your budget allows - deaden those panels. It will make a huge difference in your listening experience, sound quality and lowering outside road noise of those thin, tin Toyo panels. :biggrin2:
 
I've always tested speakers for phase before closing things up. I'm glad to see this advice being given out.

I remember there used to be a spray on sound deadening / insulation material. Does that still exist or is it all and stick sheet material at this point?

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 
theesotericone said:
Your gonna want to get at least ten feet of speaker wire for the crossover to new tweeter connection. Using the old speaker wiring is fine if you must but new wires will be pretty easy to run once the panels are off. Just sayin. lol

You'll want the usual 20 gauge electrical connectors as well as some butt end connectors for the harness connections. You'll also want a 9v battery to test phase before you hook each speaker to the head unit. You hook the + and - speaker wire to the + and - of the battery. If it's in phase(polarity is correct basically) the cone on the speaker will push out. You want to make sure all 4 speakers are in phase. If one's not it's easier to reverse the head unit hook up then remove the mounted speaker.

As far as dynamat goes, it is so, so worth it. I know you have other priorities but when your ready just set aside a day and do the doors and drivers foot well at least. Also, don't buy dynamat. It's just over-priced butyl that has a cool name. There's some stuff I got from Amazon that's as thick, as sticky, as good, and 1/3 of the price. I used those savings to put in those fancy Infinity speakers I linked you to. lol

As far as the back up camera goes, the unit you buy will have all the wiring. It's easy enough to pull the head unit back out to hook up power, ground and feed. I'd just hold off until you have the unit.
Click to expand...

Good stuff, thank you, again.

If the door panels come-off fairly easily, hopefully with no rash of busted clips, maybe I'll do just that. So, 20 gauge wire, given the 20 gauge connectors you referenced? I imagine about 50 feet will do...

I do have some 9 volt batteries here, so I will attempt what you described. Seems easy enough.

After painstakingly removing sound-deadening material from another ride with dry ice and a heat gun, it will be odd for me to add such stuff back on, but I get the purpose here. Any good spray-on product for this purpose? On Amazon, butyl tape is the same price as Dynamat. I can look elsewhere of course...

Looks like Pioneer also has cameras for this purpose too:

https://smile.amazon.com/Pioneer-ND...qid=1511834673&sr=1-1&keywords=Pioneer+ND-BC8

Are the guidance lines on these backup systems a feature of the camera, or the HU? I've heard both, and if the camera, then I'd need to factor that into the selection process.

Thanks!
 
octanejunkie said:
I've always tested speakers for phase before closing things up. I'm glad to see this advice being given out.

I remember there used to be a spray on sound deadening / insulation material. Does that still exist or is it all and stick sheet material at this point?

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Lizardskin..2 gals cover approx 50 sq ft.
 
octanejunkie said:
I've always tested speakers for phase before closing things up. I'm glad to see this advice being given out.

I remember there used to be a spray on sound deadening / insulation material. Does that still exist or is it all and stick sheet material at this point?
Click to expand...

firemanj92 said:
Lizardskin..2 gals cover approx 50 sq ft.
Click to expand...

An aersol spray-on: https://www.amazon.com/050220-Spray-Deadening-Unwanted-Vibration/dp/B001URKV0G

Otherwise, this might be enough for 4 doors (a little over 4 sq-ft per door)?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012B5EMGO/ref=psdc_15736121_t2_B001URKV0G
 
TonyB66 said:
If the door panels come-off fairly easily, hopefully with no rash of busted clips, maybe I'll do just that. So, 20 gauge wire, given the 20 gauge connectors you referenced? I imagine about 50 feet will do...
Click to expand...


If your re-using the stock wiring it's either 18 or 20. The head harness to stereo will be 18. 18-22 is the usual crimp size. The color code for that size is red. If you run new speaker wire I'd run 14 gauge. Color code for 14-16 gauge is blue. Just make sure all your connections are tight by giving them a slight tug after crimping.
 
theesotericone said:
If your re-using the stock wiring it's either 18 or 20. The head harness to stereo will be 18. 18-22 is the usual crimp size. The color code for that size is red. If you run new speaker wire I'd run 14 gauge. Color code for 14-16 gauge is blue. Just make sure all your connections are tight by giving them a slight tug after crimping.
Click to expand...

14 AWG it is.

91mFFAjxryL._SL1500_.jpg


https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-100ft-Speaker-Touch/dp/B01CSZAYF0

100 feet is much more than I need, but I can use it later for something else...
 
TonyB66 said:
Mike, might you be saying that 14 gauge will be too heavy for this application? Thanks for the clarification.
Click to expand...
I'm just saying to match the wire gauge with the power you're pushing and to confirm with your amp specs/instructions

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 
octanejunkie said:
I'm just saying to match the wire gauge with the power you're pushing and to confirm with your amp specs/instructions

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike.

Looks like with this amp, I can expect a draw of about 26 amps. It seems that even 12 gauge would be fine here, even 10 for the longer runs.
 
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