Drive/Prop Shaft Greasing Guide

Did this service this weekend for the first time. Can definitely notice a difference driving it now afterwards. Thank you to the thread originator... I used Mobil1 pink in all the zerks.
 
Awesome!! Now I know what I'm doing tomorrow.

I got the clunk recently which I assume came about because I started towing a boat this past summer. Lots of dips in the lake!

Thanks for the post.
 
Just checked to see if this is already in the documentation thread and it is!

I copied a lot of the links over really fast so they're not all memorized.
 
The FSM on page PR10 says to apply molybdenum disulfide lithium based chassis grease to the slip yokes only (zirk's 2 and 7). The spider bearing replacement page says to pack the spider bearings with MP Grease (Multi-purpose grease, usually lithium based, zirks 1, 3 and 8). I can't find where the FSM says anything about the double cardan, but I believe it lumps it in with the spider bearings, so MP grease (I assume this because it lumps them together for inspection method). So in summary:

1. MP
2. Moly
3. MP
4. MP?
5. MP?
6. MP?
7. Moly
8. MP

This was all pulled from the FSM dated 2002 (only one I have seen posted online)

Then there is a TSB from 1999 that says differently

1. MP
2. MP
3. MP
4. Moly
5. Moly
6. Moly
7. MP
8. MP

On pg. 49, it says to use moly for the double cardan joint.

So what I get is:

1. MP
2. Moly
3. MP
4. Moly
5. Moly
6. Moly
7. Moly
8. MP



XWGqaxZ.jpg
 
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Ah, so you found the spec for my 3 MP?'s, nice find. I'll update the original post with your info. Thanks!

Kinda stupid to put the grease specs in 2 very different places in the FSM...

I am still just going to go with only 1 grease type (moly) for all of them as I still think it's isn't a big deal which you use as long as you service it regularly.
 
Absolutely brilliant

You can sit at my fire anytime, and if you ever need a shop in Southern Utah for emergency, contact me, mine is available to you Sir, (as long as I am not out wheeling :).
 
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Ok guys, just wanted to chime in on this topic. Since day one, I've had the "bump" issue even though I am vigilant about greasing my drive lines. My issue was two fold, I get a slight bump when I come almost to a stop and when I release the brakes it "bumps." Another is after coming to a complete stop and then releasing the brakes I got the "bump." Almost like pressure building and then releasing but not quick enough, hence the bump. Obviously from the slip yokes.

I've ready numerous threads on what kind of grease to use...yada yada yada. Based on my research, I decided to use Mobile 1 Synthetic (red) as a coverall for the whole drive line. The bump was now intermittent. Fast forward to last night, I decided to follow the FSM and use moly grease on the slip yokes and continue to use Mobile one the u joints. Guess what..."bump" is 100% gone!!!

While pumping the grease into the rear slip yoke, I noticed something I've never seen before when I used the Mobile 1, the moly grease was now seeping through where the slip yoke and drive line meet allowing it to easily contract and expand. My theory is that the Mobile 1 grease caused a vacuum seal that would not let the slip yoke move as much. It's just a theory. However, I do know for certain that as of right now the annoying bump is gone. BTW, someone on the Tundra forum wrote that moly infused grease is specifically made for metal on metal contact, which makes sense for the slip yokes.

SL3330.jpg
 
Ok guys, just wanted to chime in on this topic. Since day one, I've had the "bump" issue even though I am vigilant about greasing my drive lines. My issue was two fold, I get a slight bump when I come almost to a stop and when I release the brakes it "bumps." Another is after coming to a complete stop and then releasing the brakes I got the "bump." Almost like pressure building and then releasing but not quick enough, hence the bump. Obviously from the slip yokes.

I've ready numerous threads on what kind of grease to use...yada yada yada. Based on my research, I decided to use Mobile 1 Synthetic (red) as a coverall for the whole drive line. The bump was now intermittent. Fast forward to last night, I decided to follow the FSM and use moly grease on the slip yokes and continue to use Mobile one the u joints. Guess what..."bump" is 100% gone!!!

While pumping the grease into the rear slip yoke, I noticed something I've never seen before when I used the Mobile 1, the moly grease was now seeping through where the slip yoke and drive line meet allowing it to easily contract and expand. My theory is that the Mobile 1 grease caused a vacuum seal that would not let the slip yoke move as much. It's just a theory. However, I do know for certain that as of right now the annoying bump is gone. BTW, someone on the Tundra forum wrote that moly infused grease is specifically made for metal on metal contact, which makes sense for the slip yokes.

I will try this this weekend. I usually follow the service manual exactly but was too cheap to buy a second grease gun and lube. I hate that mobil 1 stuff though, it leaked a huge amount of red "juice" out of the grease gun all over my garage.
 
I will try this this weekend. I usually follow the service manual exactly but was too cheap to buy a second grease gun and lube. I hate that mobil 1 stuff though, it leaked a huge amount of red "juice" out of the grease gun all over my garage.

I know, the red liquid from my Mobile 1 grease gun is everywhere. I just bought a mini 3oz grease gun from Amazon for 16 bucks for my moly grease and it works great.
 
I started a thread related to this subject:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/214270-slip-yoke-binding-fix.html

Here's two videos of how I fixed my sleeve yoke binding problem. Well, at least it's been fixed for around 900 miles so far. The thread I started is actually named wrong though. The correct term is "Sleeve Yoke". I just couldn't rename my thread without deleting it.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/oKX5UeE2Txs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Jyltxe2nPEg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Great thread!!

Ordered Moly lube yesterday and a second grease gun to make life easier.

I wish I'd been hotter on this early on in my truck owning carear!

I also had to replace a zerk fitting... supprisingly easy, I've had a nighmare with stud extractions in the last, but as these are... kinda my nature all greased up it came out really easily!

The best bit is on a lifted truck you don't even need to jack the thing up!
 
Ok guys, just wanted to chime in on this topic. Since day one, I've had the "bump" issue even though I am vigilant about greasing my drive lines. My issue was two fold, I get a slight bump when I come almost to a stop and when I release the brakes it "bumps." Another is after coming to a complete stop and then releasing the brakes I got the "bump." Almost like pressure building and then releasing but not quick enough, hence the bump. Obviously from the slip yokes.

I've ready numerous threads on what kind of grease to use...yada yada yada. Based on my research, I decided to use Mobile 1 Synthetic (red) as a coverall for the whole drive line. The bump was now intermittent. Fast forward to last night, I decided to follow the FSM and use moly grease on the slip yokes and continue to use Mobile one the u joints. Guess what..."bump" is 100% gone!!!

While pumping the grease into the rear slip yoke, I noticed something I've never seen before when I used the Mobile 1, the moly grease was now seeping through where the slip yoke and drive line meet allowing it to easily contract and expand. My theory is that the Mobile 1 grease caused a vacuum seal that would not let the slip yoke move as much. It's just a theory. However, I do know for certain that as of right now the annoying bump is gone. BTW, someone on the Tundra forum wrote that moly infused grease is specifically made for metal on metal contact, which makes sense for the slip yokes.

SL3330.jpg

I took my sleeve yoke apart and greased it really well with moly grease and it didn't get rid of my sleeve yoke binding problem. When I cleaned it up and greased it with Ford XG-8 grease, the problem finally went away. Maybe my sleeve yoke is more worn than yours from improper or no greasing over it's life.

The Ford XG-8 was manufactured to directly address the slip yoke and sleeve yoke binding problems with their trucks. And since drive shafts are drive shafts, it works great for our trucks too.

Here's a link for anyone wanting to try out the Ford XG-8 grease themselves.
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-...d=1458136974&sr=8-1&keywords=Ford+XG-8+Grease
 

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I took my sleeve yoke apart and greased it really well with moly grease and it didn't get rid of my sleeve yoke binding problem. When I cleaned it up and greased it with Ford XG-8 grease, the problem finally went away. Maybe my sleeve yoke is more worn than yours from improper or no greasing over it's life.

The Ford XG-8 was manufactured to directly address the slip yoke and sleeve yoke binding problems with their trucks. And since drive shafts are drive shafts, it works great for our trucks too.

Here's a link for anyone wanting to try out the Ford XG-8 grease themselves.
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-...d=1458136974&sr=8-1&keywords=Ford+XG-8+Grease


Good deal. At least you resolved the problem. If the moly didnt fix my problem i would have used the Ford grease as well.
 
I have a 2014 Trail. The Owners Manual alllows that I can use lithium based grease on both the spiders and slip joint. That makes things easy!

I have a total of 6 zerks.
 

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