Drive/Prop Shaft Greasing Guide

I know for a fact the dealer doesn't use different grease on the driveline. They use the same throughout. I watched the master tech do my 15' 4Runner.
 
Weird that as per the TSB, Toyota's most recent recommendation is to use MP grease on all joints except for the double cardan which is moly. Isn't a double cardan joint just two U-joints? How is it different in construction vs a U-joint to require (in theory) a different grease?

It seems the reason why Toyota initially specified two greases is because of the presence of sliding vs rolling forces. Rolling forces are better serviced by a (NLGI GC rated) MP grease and sliding forces by a (NLGI LB rated) moly grease. However, these days greases have become so good that most moly and MP greases are both GC and LB rated, so it might not really matter. All the old school guys saying moly greases ruined their U-joints were probably basing their experiences on ancient greases which did not perform the same in these two applications as compared to a modern grease.

I'm curious why Toyota would switch from a moly to a MP grease for the slip yoke when sliding forces are better serviced by a moly grease.
 
Ok guys, just wanted to chime in on this topic. Since day one, I've had the "bump" issue even though I am vigilant about greasing my drive lines. My issue was two fold, I get a slight bump when I come almost to a stop and when I release the brakes it "bumps." Another is after coming to a complete stop and then releasing the brakes I got the "bump." Almost like pressure building and then releasing but not quick enough, hence the bump. Obviously from the slip yokes.

I've ready numerous threads on what kind of grease to use...yada yada yada. Based on my research, I decided to use Mobile 1 Synthetic (red) as a coverall for the whole drive line. The bump was now intermittent. Fast forward to last night, I decided to follow the FSM and use moly grease on the slip yokes and continue to use Mobile one the u joints. Guess what..."bump" is 100% gone!!!

While pumping the grease into the rear slip yoke, I noticed something I've never seen before when I used the Mobile 1, the moly grease was now seeping through where the slip yoke and drive line meet allowing it to easily contract and expand. My theory is that the Mobile 1 grease caused a vacuum seal that would not let the slip yoke move as much. It's just a theory. However, I do know for certain that as of right now the annoying bump is gone. BTW, someone on the Tundra forum wrote that moly infused grease is specifically made for metal on metal contact, which makes sense for the slip yokes.

SL3330.jpg

Im about to try and do this for the first time, and about to get all my supplies besides the grease gun and hose, Im confused to what type of grease I should use and where to find it.... Do i just go to a place like Napa, Canadian tire, etc and ask for moly grease?

I have read in some other threads not to over grease in some places, is there a guide to how many "pumps" each should take?
 
Im about to try and do this for the first time, and about to get all my supplies besides the grease gun and hose, Im confused to what type of grease I should use and where to find it.... Do i just go to a place like Napa, Canadian tire, etc and ask for moly grease?

I have read in some other threads not to over grease in some places, is there a guide to how many "pumps" each should take?

that moly graph grease is what we used in the transportation vehicles . never had any binding issues or rust on the joints or any wear issues.

on my 2016 T4R I got out the grease guns and checked on the greasing of the drive shafts. the front drive shaft had lithium brown grease . the rear drive shaft had moly [black grease ] in the u joints as well as the slip joint shafts.

moly graph is more $$$ than the lithium only grease ... we used the lithium based only where it could be used with no issues in areas of not being exposed to corrosive chemicals .. the moly used in the harsh environments

I slowly pumped in the grease until I felt some resistance then after about an hr I checked for the weeping out of the grease and some did come out so I wiped off the excess.

I would say that the factory did not put much grease in the slip yokes and the rear U joints ..
 
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I would say the opposite. Doubt the factory didn't put enough grease. Slip yoke moves. So it will pump the excessive grease out. As far was the u-joint pump all you want it will only fill so much till it seeps out v
 
I would say the opposite. Doubt the factory didn't put enough grease. Slip yoke moves. So it will pump the excessive grease out. As far was the u-joint pump all you want it will only fill so much till it seeps out v

On the slip joints, if you go nuts you will turn the shaft into a very powerful hydraulic ram and do bad things to the seals on the equipment at either end. Three or four pumps is plenty. Everything else, go nuts until you see fresh colored grease coming out.
 
On the slip joints, if you go nuts you will turn the shaft into a very powerful hydraulic ram and do bad things to the seals on the equipment at either end. Three or four pumps is plenty. Everything else, go nuts until you see fresh colored grease coming out.

the reason I greased these was because I did not see any grease. that includes the yoke shafts . also I know how to grease these items quite too many times on many types of vehicles including lower units on boats. the front was greased the rear had very little if any . when you buy one of these vehicles , check that they greased it. also the rear U joints had black moly type grease ...front had brown lithium grease. why is that ?

slip joints 3 half strokes on the moly then I felt it was full.

went under to check it out after driving it today looks much better as now I can see some grease there. seems smoother stop/go ..
 
OP,
were you able to find out what size/thread of the zerks we have on our 2002 trucks?
I fear I need to replace all on my driveshaft as they not let the grease in.

Please let me know the size if someone knows for sure. Or the parts number.

Thanks.
 
Finally had the gonads to do this (actually really bored)
I had the hardest time for # 6 and #8.
I cant find #6 all i can see is a hex nut, maybe the zerk came out? Anyone have a picture of what it looks like?

AND #8 is such a tight fit ive tried multiple times it goes in but the grease just sips out out of my hose, any tips? BTW i used all NLIG2, reading post everyone using moly is kind of scaring me LOL :lalala:
 
Thanks for the post Nelson! This is incredibly valuable and I will be bookmarking this one to be used next week.
 
OP,
were you able to find out what size/thread of the zerks we have on our 2002 trucks?
I fear I need to replace all on my driveshaft as they not let the grease in.

Please let me know the size if someone knows for sure. Or the parts number.

Thanks.
M6x1. That is what I used on the back end of the driveshaft, but I'm not sure if the others are the same size.
 

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