Dumb meets dumber - UCA castle Nut "screwed"

[Madiusmax]

There's not really a way to start this, except in my stupidity while attempting to remove the castle nut from the spindle of the UCA, I rounded the nut.

In a stroke of genius, I thought i could just cut the bolt from above and punch down through the spindle. This was an error and I'm left with the following:

What are my best options here? I have a replacement SPC UCA so whatever it takes to get this thing removed.

 

[GSD 4Runner]

Grind the nut flush and knock it out.

 

[toku58]

You can try a nut splitter and remove the nut. Or channel locks, water pump pliers or a pipe wrench. a big vise grip might work also.

 

[MalinoisRunner]

little grindin' and a little heat and it'll punch out. maybe a little drillin'. do you have a vise? :thumb:

 

[wfo9]

You will need to grind one side of the nut off. Then chisel the remainder off the nut. then hammer the bolt up and out (also smacking the flat spot on the spindle). Air chisel would make quick work of this. You don't want to deform the top of the spindle... Its tapered... You will never be able knock it down from the top.

 

[TK-422]

all the above and/or a nut breaker.

 

[Madiusmax]

Thank you for all the help and suggestions thus far.

Here is where I stand. Looking for best method to punch this out, seems pretty snug in there:

Thought about drilling, but never drilled a bolt before.

Thanks in advance!

 

[jbstrd]

Thank you for all the help and suggestions thus far.

Here is where I stand. Looking for best method to punch this out, seems pretty snug in there:

Thought about drilling, but never drilled a bolt before.

Thanks in advance!

One of thee will have it out in 5 seconds. https://m.summitracing.com/parts/oe...VEeCXJSJVyYa76rayTSPZqXJH1kAsyNVAgaAlwJ8P8HAQ

 

[TrdinOhio]

Punch it out my ass...that appears to be threaded. No amount of downwards force is going to separate a threaded bolt from a threaded hole unless you press the threads out too.
Your gonna have to drill it, yes you can drill a grade 8 bolt.
Use good bits and keep dipping the tip in oil every minute or so of drilling. Once you have a decent hole try an Ez-out or damaged bolt/screw extractor. If that doesn't work drill a small hole in the center ALL the way through to the other side. Then slowly step up the bit size until your close to the bolt size. Many times the pressure is relieved and the bolt will spin out on the bit. Other times once you get close you can break the remaining bolt walls out with screwdrivers.
Or call a mobile machinist. They exist.
Good luck brother, sorry to hear about your misfortune. Stupidity happens but it's the ability to resolve the problem that matters in the end.

 

[Antman]

Punch it out my ass...that appears to be threaded. No amount of downwards force is going to separate a threaded bolt from a threaded hole unless you press the threads out too.
Your gonna have to drill it, yes you can drill a grade 8 bolt.
Use good bits and keep dipping the tip in oil every minute or so of drilling. Once you have a decent hole try an Ez-out or damaged bolt/screw extractor. If that doesn't work drill a small hole in the center ALL the way through to the other side. Then slowly step up the bit size until your close to the bolt size. Many times the pressure is relieved and the bolt will spin out on the bit. Other times once you get close you can break the remaining bolt walls out with screwdrivers.
Or call a mobile machinist. They exist.
Good luck brother, sorry to hear about your misfortune. Stupidity happens but it's the ability to resolve the problem that matters in the end.

Yeah. NOT threaded. It's a tapered seat. Push it out from the bottom.

If it were me, I would probably rig something up with a C-clamp and some sockets to put pressure on the remaining tapered shaft and hit the spindle hard on the flat spot with a 5lb sledge. Couple of good whacks should do it. Once it breaks free it's out completely.

 

[SATSTRAIL]

Yeah. NOT threaded. It's a tapered seat. Push it out from the bottom.

If it were me, I would probably rig something up with a C-clamp and some sockets to put pressure on the remaining tapered shaft and hit the spindle hard on the flat spot with a 5lb sledge. Couple of good whacks should do it. Once it breaks free it's out completely.

Agreed. That's definitely not a threaded piece. Drilling will be a waste of time and energy. Use the method Antman suggested or the tool in the quote below. Either way will get it done.

One of thee will have it out in 5 seconds. https://m.summitracing.com/parts/oe...VEeCXJSJVyYa76rayTSPZqXJH1kAsyNVAgaAlwJ8P8HAQ

 

[wfo9]

Yes, it is not threaded...Don't listen to that.... it is tapered

Hit the flat spot on the end/side with a big frig-gen hammer a few times. They cast in the flat sop for removal reasons. Really smack it and send shock waves through it to walk it out.. Then it should punch up and out easy. If not. a ball joint remover or some other rigging like Antman suggested.

 

[CF_Machete]

like a few guys said, shock the bolt wit a hammer and hit the bolt from bottom up and it should pop right out. Try positioning a screw driver, or nail set on the bolt and wacking it with a hammer from the bottom up.

let us know when its out.

 

[Muskrat14]

Well, is it out? What worked?


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[Madiusmax]

Going to attempt what Antman suggested this afternoon, as well as hammer some more (Think I've been too gentle with it). However getting the removal tool suggested as well in case I have no luck.

Will update as soon as I get it out, one way or another.

Thank you again for all the help so far. I suppose on the bright side, i was able to go ahead and remove the current UCA and shock and replace on that side. Just need this out to connect UCA back up and then tighten it all up.

My wife doesn't mind being my chauffeur for a few more days. :behindsofa:

 

[JSparky]

Don't be gentle with it, sometimes they can be stuck in good.

Curious, what tool were you using when it rounded? A 12 point socket?

Word to anyone, if you use a nut-breaker be sure to wear eye protection, I had a nut-breaker break on me once and metal pieces went flying with velocity.

 

[Jetboy]

The key is to hammer in the right place. You need either an anvil or a big block of steel, or something like a big sledge hammer. Put the end on the anvil. Then hammer the shit out of the side of the outer spindle area. Don't hit the end of the actual ball joint remnant. You want to squeeze the outer ring and it will pop out the ball joint part. I usually do it with two 2.5lb sledge hammers. One I hold against the back side while I hit the front side with the other. Give it a try. I think it should pop right out.

<iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/LDsci-izhhc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[wfo9]

To be clear where to hit it.... that is the spot. It takes a big mini sledge with a hard hit.

It will be difficult to hit hit hard with it disconnected like that... SO you may have to resort to a press tool of some sort.

 

[TK-422]

Probably a cheap puller will do.

 

[Madiusmax]

Just a quick update. Rod is out. Puller popped it like a cork.

Thank you all!