Elocker's

So can someone summarize what we've learned in this thread. Mechanical n00b here. I mainly ask because there was a bit of initial debate on here and if someone could summarize the facts that would be awesome.

Drop in? Rough install instructions? Tools needed? Amount of time to install? Fits V8? Difference if you have SR5, Sport, Limited? Impact on mpg? Ability to revert stock? Warranty?
 
So can someone summarize what we've learned in this thread. Mechanical n00b here. I mainly ask because there was a bit of initial debate on here and if someone could summarize the facts that would be awesome.

Drop in? Rough install instructions? Tools needed? Amount of time to install? Fits V8? Difference if you have SR5, Sport, Limited? Impact on mpg? Ability to revert stock? Warranty?

I'll give this a go. Was waiting on somebody else to chime in:

Drop in? - So this was sort of what the "debate" was over. Is it an entirely built 3rd member assembly that you just bolt on in place of yours? No. It is "drop-in" in the same sense that every other aftermarket locker is. Which is basically a replacement carrier assembly.

Very rough install instructions - pull your 3rd member (diff housing). Replace your stock carrier with the locker. Put it back together. Wire it up.

Tools - Nothing special that I can think of off hand. If you're replacing parts, i.e. regearing or doing a solid pinion set up like I did, you'll need a dial gauge set up to check backlash and probably a something to check pinion bearing pre-load. If you're reusing your stock parts, then you probably don't need anything special.

Amount of time to install - I'd say give yourself anywhere from 4-8 hours to be safe... Probably a little more for the front.

Fits V8 - Yes (as long as it fits any of our trucks, because the differentials are the same)

Difference in trim levels - None

Impact on MPG - Should be none. A selectable locker acts just like an open diff when it isn't being used

Ability to revert to stock - Doable, as long as you find a way to reverse however you passed the wires through the diff housing. But why really?

Warranty - Good question. I guess Ben would need to answer that.

Hope that helps. Guys, please feel free to chime in if any of this is mis-information.
 
Since the differentials are more-or-less sealed aside from the vent hose, what is the most logical way to route a wire out of the housing? Drill a hole in the housing and utilize a grommet?
 
Since the differentials are more-or-less sealed aside from the vent hose, what is the most logical way to route a wire out of the housing? Drill a hole in the housing and utilize a grommet?

I would use silicone and seal it inside and out
 
I'll give this a go. Was waiting on somebody else to chime in:

Drop in? - So this was sort of what the "debate" was over. Is it an entirely built 3rd member assembly that you just bolt on in place of yours? No. It is "drop-in" in the same sense that every other aftermarket locker is. Which is basically a replacement carrier assembly.

Very rough install instructions - pull your 3rd member (diff housing). Replace your stock carrier with the locker. Put it back together. Wire it up.

Tools - Nothing special that I can think of off hand. If you're replacing parts, i.e. regearing or doing a solid pinion set up like I did, you'll need a dial gauge set up to check backlash and probably a something to check pinion bearing pre-load. If you're reusing your stock parts, then you probably don't need anything special.

Amount of time to install - I'd say give yourself anywhere from 4-8 hours to be safe... Probably a little more for the front.

Fits V8 - Yes (as long as it fits any of our trucks, because the differentials are the same)

Difference in trim levels - None

Impact on MPG - Should be none. A selectable locker acts just like an open diff when it isn't being used

Ability to revert to stock - Doable, as long as you find a way to reverse however you passed the wires through the diff housing. But why really?

Warranty - Good question. I guess Ben would need to answer that.

Hope that helps. Guys, please feel free to chime in if any of this is mis-information.

Thanks for all the info
Great post and summery
 
Since the differentials are more-or-less sealed aside from the vent hose, what is the most logical way to route a wire out of the housing? Drill a hole in the housing and utilize a grommet?

yes, you drill a hole, thread it, then install a grommet in which seals the area your passing the wires through. ( I would imagine that a grommet of this type would be provided with the carrier that is requiring the wires to be ran outside of the housing.)

I would use silicone and seal it inside and out

I would not recommend that. That is not the proper way to seal gear oil into a housing.
 
yes, you drill a hole, thread it, then install a grommet in which seals the area your passing the wires through. ( I would imagine that a grommet of this type would be provided with the carrier that is requiring the wires to be ran outside of the housing.)



I would not recommend that. That is not the proper way to seal gear oil into a housing.

Good to know!
When I hear grommet I was thinking of the o ring type for electrical wires to just protect the wires
 
Yeah, I'm sure that whatever you need to wire it should be included in the kit, which would include how to get the wiring through the housing and instructions. Looking at the picture that Ben supplied, it looks likes their are some leads coming out of the locker. Then there is a stand alone connector between the zip ties and wiring harness. Maybe this is what's installed and sandwiches onto the housing and the harness just plugs in? Pure speculation...

114091d1395371230-elockers-elocker.jpg


Also wonder why there are 2 switches?
 
Yeah, I'm sure that whatever you need to wire it should be included in the kit, which would include how to get the wiring through the housing and instructions. Looking at the picture that Ben supplied, it looks likes their are some leads coming out of the locker. Then there is a stand alone connector between the zip ties and wiring harness. Maybe this is what's installed and sandwiches onto the housing and the harness just plugs in? Pure speculation...

114091d1395371230-elockers-elocker.jpg


Also wonder why there are 2 switches?

Front and rear switch cover
If you look closely you can see the switch on the wiring
 
At this price point, I'm more than likely OUT. Was hoping it might come in around $700-ish for a group buy... Optimistic I know. If this goes through, I wish you guys the best of luck with them. Hopefully it's a great product and we'll get some more users in our application.
 

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