Engine Noise

[mmeuli]

I recently had the bearing on my alternator fail. After replacing the alternator, shredded belt, and punctured radiator, it ran like a champ again.

That was back in I want to say November. Recently, I've noticed this noise when I turn on the AC. AC blows cold as ever but I'm wondering if maybe the pulley on it is bad. Thoughts on the noise? It sounds a lot like the alternator pulley did right before the pulley failed.

Is it possible to just replace the pulley on ours or does the whole thing have to go? 2016 Limited with 161k miles.

Sorry about the video. I can get one with the hood open but seems sufficient to hear.

5th Gen noise with AC on - YouTube

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[rigtec]

I recently had the bearing on my alternator fail. After replacing the alternator, shredded belt, and punctured radiator, it ran like a champ again.

That was back in I want to say November. Recently, I've noticed this noise when I turn on the AC. AC blows cold as ever but I'm wondering if maybe the pulley on it is bad. Thoughts on the noise? It sounds a lot like the alternator pulley did right before the pulley failed.

Is it possible to just replace the pulley on ours or does the whole thing have to go? 2016 Limited with 161k miles.

Sorry about the video. I can get one with the hood open but seems sufficient to hear.

Hi mmeuli,

I'm considering the, somewhat higher mileage on ALL of the pulleys, e.g. power-steering, idlers, air-pump...etc! But to lose both the alternator ...AND... the A/C Compressor at about the same time... And the shredding of the belt, it seems to me that the belt "May Have" been too tight all the while!

That's what happens if ya put to much pressure on the drive-belt; it'll destroy the bearings on the pumps, even the water pump is at risk if the main drive belt is improperly adjusted for a length of time! You can pull the A/C compressor and replace the crank bearing, IF you're pretty handy!

But you'll need a vacuum-pump, 'bout 2-3 lbs of R-134A refrigerant and BOTH Bearings; the outer crank-bearing and the pully bearing, which is turning, even with the a/c turned off! I (personally) wouldn't do that. I'd buy a "Re-conditioned" compressor, On Ebay or Walmart, from "Auto-Zone"; they're sold cheaper online than in the store!

You'll still need a vacuum pump (figure 500 microns of vac "B-4" adding charge), and R-134A Refrigerant, but less head-aches without rebuilding! The new compressor will/"...should" come with the proper amount of oil in it's crankcase, so no worries there!

And when installing the belt, make sure that there's at least a 1/4 to a half an inch of play in the new belt when your done! 'Best to you'

rig, cheers!

 

[mmeuli]

Hi mmeuli,



I'm considering the, somewhat higher mileage on ALL of the pulleys, e.g. power-steering, idlers, air-pump...etc! But to lose both the alternator ...AND... the A/C Compressor at about the same time... And the shredding of the belt, it seems to me that the belt "May Have" been too tight all the while!



That's what happens if ya put to much pressure on the drive-belt; it'll destroy the bearings on the pumps, even the water pump is at risk if the main drive belt is improperly adjusted for a length of time! You can pull the A/C compressor and replace the crank bearing, IF you're pretty handy!



But you'll need a vacuum-pump, 'bout 2-3 lbs of R-134A refrigerant and BOTH Bearings; the outer crank-bearing and the pully bearing, which is turning, even with the a/c turned off! I (personally) wouldn't do that. I'd buy a "Re-conditioned" compressor, On Ebay or Walmart, from "Auto-Zone"; they're sold cheaper online than in the store!



You'll still need a vacuum pump (figure 500 microns of vac "B-4" adding charge), and R-134A Refrigerant, but less head-aches without rebuilding! The new compressor will/"...should" come with the proper amount of oil in it's crankcase, so no worries there!



And when installing the belt, make sure that there's at least a 1/4 to a half an inch of play in the new belt when your done! 'Best to you'



rig, cheers!

The 5th Gen uses an automatic tensioner and the belt is the correct belt. There's some play in the belt but it does seem tight-it has about a half inch of play, if I really put some weight on it. Now I'm wondering if I should consider replacing the tensioner first?

The belt shredded most likely because the alternator clutch pulley pulled off completely when it failed. Had ordered a new pulley the day I noticed the noise but the tool needed to remove the pulley took a week and a half to arrive. With my luck, it came the same day I was driving home from work and the pulley failed! Of course.

I think I'll need to pull the compressor and see if i can inspect the bearings. I replaced the idler pulleys when I replaced the alternator, but was hoping the other pulleys weren't damaged when the belt pulled off. I got a set of bearings at the house and the compressor itself is working just fine. I'm gonna see if I can replace the pulleys or bearings first. If that works, I'll let you know. Just hate replacing a component that itself operates fine other than the pulley.

Sounds like i didn't learn my lesson from the alternator pulley.

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[Jivewalker]

Rigtec is correct. I'm not sure the pulley on the compressor is your primary goal. I think the bearing would be the issue, which may involve replacing the seal and recovering and recharging the refrigerant. Easier to get a rebuilt compressor which would have that done IMO.

 

[rigtec]

The 5th Gen uses an automatic tensioner and the belt is the correct belt. There's some play in the belt but it does seem tight-it has about a half inch of play, if I really put some weight on it. Now I'm wondering if I should consider replacing the tensioner first?

The belt shredded most likely because the alternator clutch pulley pulled off completely when it failed. Had ordered a new pulley the day I noticed the noise but the tool needed to remove the pulley took a week and a half to arrive. With my luck, it came the same day I was driving home from work and the pulley failed! Of course.

I think I'll need to pull the compressor and see if i can inspect the bearings. I replaced the idler pulleys when I replaced the alternator, but was hoping the other pulleys weren't damaged when the belt pulled off. I got a set of bearings at the house and the compressor itself is working just fine. I'm gonna see if I can replace the pulleys or bearings first. If that works, I'll let you know. Just hate replacing a component that itself operates fine other than the pulley.

Sounds like i didn't learn my lesson from the alternator pulley.

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Hi mmeuli,

Not for nothin'... but I've NEVER seen an alternator pulley fly off the shaft without a good reason! I'd plan on replacing ALL OF THE belt driven pulley bearings, including the water pump, or you may find yourself replacing the radiator once again!

You have the evidence that a catastrophic event took place for the damage that you've described to ever happen. Something has caused your alternator pulley to fly-off... though I've never seen that happen, that didn't happen from normal "wear-n-tear", and certainly an act of God!

And as the above poster (@Jivewalker) said, I'd be concerned with those bearings; even the tensioner bearing B'cuz it's likely endured the very same catastrophic conditions that damaged the belt and other pulley bearings. I think you've spent enough cash replacing stuff that you already had...

You could've spent that $,$$$ on bills, or Mods on your truck...(?)! Believe me, I'm on your side (Truly & Sincerely), just don't wanna see ya have to go through this again, replacing stuff that you just replaced... Please Consider doing the Idler, water pump and tensioner bearing B-4 you put it back together...(?) K? 'Best'

rig, Cheers!

 

[mmeuli]

Thank you everyone. I think you're right. I was stuck on it only making the noise while the AC was turned on, but the additional load on the belt, if it's already too tight, makes sense. I'll replace all the bearings next weekend and let you know the outcome. Thank you again.

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[DougR]

If this was my vehicle and I only had weekends to work on it, I would inspect the a/c clutch bearing first, replace it if it's bad, inspect other bearings and repair as needed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7yflp1WFrU demonstrates the same noise symptom that you have, shows how to diagnose an a/c clutch bearing with the belt off, shows repair of the clutch bearing while the compressor is still charged and in the vehicle, demonstrates testing idler pulleys and shows an economical method to replace bearings in the idler pulleys.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFC5jMhUm4s shows how to disassemble, inspect, test and repair each part of the magnetic clutch assembly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SUheJNhrLVo shows how to use a pry bar to detect a noisy bearing. I usually use a length of PVC pipe which I hold close but not touching to detect noise.

You may be able to replace the a/c clutch bearing without discharging and removing the compressor. FSM illustrates the tools you'll need, a clutch holding tool and snap ring pliers. If clutch bearing is stuck on the shaft, you may be able to rent a removal and installer tool from AutoZone.

Inspection of the alternator overrun pulley, compressor clutch bearing, tensioner and idler pulley bearings is part of my annual maintenance. I hope to detect and replace a dry, rough, loose or noisy bearing before it fails. A Google search reveals that sometimes the alternator overrun pulley comes apart due to bearing failure and lockup.

 

[DougR]

What's the status on this issue? Do you have a noisy a/c compressor clutch bearing?

 

[mmeuli]

What's the status on this issue? Do you have a noisy a/c compressor clutch bearing?

Sorry I never saw this. It was the ac clutch bearing. Pretty easy fix.

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[Grug556]

The 5th Gen uses an automatic tensioner and the belt is the correct belt. There's some play in the belt but it does seem tight-it has about a half inch of play, if I really put some weight on it. Now I'm wondering if I should consider replacing the tensioner first?

The belt shredded most likely because the alternator clutch pulley pulled off completely when it failed. Had ordered a new pulley the day I noticed the noise but the tool needed to remove the pulley took a week and a half to arrive. With my luck, it came the same day I was driving home from work and the pulley failed! Of course.

I think I'll need to pull the compressor and see if i can inspect the bearings. I replaced the idler pulleys when I replaced the alternator, but was hoping the other pulleys weren't damaged when the belt pulled off. I got a set of bearings at the house and the compressor itself is working just fine. I'm gonna see if I can replace the pulleys or bearings first. If that works, I'll let you know. Just hate replacing a component that itself operates fine other than the pulley.

Sounds like i didn't learn my lesson from the alternator pulley.

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You need a belt tension gauge, they are really cheap. Check deflection at mid point and adjust. Doesnt take much overtightening to cause it to kill the bearing. I see your in SC? You getting salt from the water in there maybe you had the bearing seize from corrosion?

 

[Lexington]

Is your AC making a high pitch whining sound and does it get louder when you turn up the fan? If so it’s most likely your fan blower that’s located underneath the control console. Stick your head in the passenger foot area. If the noise coming from the center area that is most likely the culprit. Mine started making the noise a few month ago. Took it to my mechanic and this is what he told me. He said their just could be some debris in it but if it’s the motor, the replacement is about $350. So I am going to have him work on it at the end of the month.

 

[Ezlife45]

If you are concerned about belt tension, you could always exercise the tensioner instead of replacing the tensioner.

I had an old truck and as part of regular maintenance, I replaced the serpentine belt. The tensioner would not move easily because it had been some time with that old belt. A little lubricant and moving it back and forth and then the tensioner worked normally again.