Engine Trouble caused by driving without oil

[TheDurk]

My answers in BOLD.

Just bought an engine at a different junkyard w/ about 90k miles for $1100. I thought it was a good deal so I pulled the trigger. It is being shipped now. As a side note, I got news from the machinist that both heads are cracked on the engine with 277k miles and unusable

I am trying to keep busy before the engine arrives. So I have some questions:

1) A connector that plugs into one of the pumps (power steering or A/C) was ripped off from the engine harness. The wire did not rip but was cleanly pulled from the plastic connector. How can I repair this? Is there a way to open the back part of the connector to secure the wire to it?

You probably need a repair wire if the pin was left in the connector. This essential document (wilbo666 [licensed for non-commercial use only] / Wire Harness Repair Manual (RM1022E).pdf) is the factory Wire Harness Repair Manual and shows exactly how and gives the p/n's for any repair wires. Or you can hit the junkyard and splice in a whole connector. Toyota only sells the connector cases without pins. You have to use your old pins or splice in repair wires. Repair wires are short wire lengths wth the exact pins attached.

2) Remember when I disconnected the housing that connects to the drive shaft to the A/T fluid tank thing? What are the torque sequence and specs for that? Also, is there a gasket that I need to replace?

I don't do slush boxes--can't help.

3) Sorry if this is really dumb but do I need a new gasket between the block and tranny (my gut feeling is yes)? I still have the sturdy looking black plastic gasket that was between the old engine and tranny.

It's just a dust seal, no fluids involved, so probably OK.

4) The large sprocket attached to the back of the engine block. Does that need to be balanced? if so how am I going to figure that out if the new engine doesn't come with one?

On an A/T, I guess that is the Torque converter. See #2.

Thanks everyone!

 

[TFRnoob]

My answers in BOLD.

Thanks for the harness info!

 

[TFRnoob]

Anyone know if I need to be worried about the balancing of the old flexplate on the new used engine? Also, I am sure the torque converter plays into all that as well. Any ideas?

 

[02SE]

Anyone know if I need to be worried about the balancing of the old flexplate on the new used engine? Also, I am sure the torque converter plays into all that as well. Any ideas?

The 5VZ-FE is internally balanced.

The Flexplate would be checked for balance when it was made.

The Torque Converter will also have been balanced when it was made.

So assuming no damage to the engine, Flexplate, or Torque Converter, you should be good to go.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

4) The large sprocket attached to the back of the engine block. Does that need to be balanced? if so how am I going to figure that out if the new engine doesn't come with one?

On an A/T, I guess that is the Torque converter. See #2.

Thanks everyone!

Isn't that just the flywheel?

Torque converter looks like a Bundt Cake.

 

[cashmoney]

Flexplate (the large sprocket), doesn't need to be balanced unless you are having the entire rotating assembly balanced. Just bolt it on and go.

 

[willbgood]

Hi all,

My truck has 277,000 miles on the odometer.

I found two engines at the local junkyard and I need help deciding between the two.

Keep in mind, at this point I really want to keep the truck anymore as I am looking to buy a 4WD 4runner w/ manual transmission at some point.

So the options are:

A) an engine from a 1998 4runner with 90k miles for $1400

B) an engine from a 1997 4runner with 155k miles for $1100.

What do you all think?

I would question the 98 with 90 K. Really the only way to know is by examining them carefully, and examining the vehicles. 90 k at 30 mph on dirt roads all its life, is not a good buy.

If you could do a compression check, look in the throttle body, or even better pull a head, you might decide for the 155 k.

Me for the extra sheckles, I would buy one of these List: Engines | O'Reilly Auto Parts or check out Oregon engines and pay the shiping.

 

[TheDurk]

Isn't that just the flywheel?

Torque converter looks like a Bundt Cake.

Hey, I said I know nothing about slushboxes. For some reason, I thought the flywheel was built into to the TC. On a 5-speed, it for sure is the flywheel. I've never even seen a TC.

I assumed he was looking at what is in the top half of the first image below, which is the ring gear bolted to the TC. But you are right, the flywheel is just like a 5-speed, as shown in at the bottom of the second image. I shouldn't even be looking at these evil images.

 

[jeremyc74]

But you are right, the flywheel is just like a 5-speed, as shown in at the bottom of the second image. I shouldn't even be looking at these evil images.

It's close, but not exactly the same thing. The flywheel provides both a friction surface for the clutch, and acts as rotating mass to make shifts smoother. On an automatic it's not really a flywheel, but a flex plate. It's much thinner and doesn't have any real mass at all because the torque converter has plenty.

 

[absalom]

If you haven't already, check out car-part.com ... we got my buddies 3.4 on there for $450. Runs perfectly to this day.

 

[TFRnoob]

If you haven't already, check out car-part.com ... we got my buddies 3.4 on there for $450. Runs perfectly to this day.

Actually that is where the information for the engine I got! It was suggested early on by another member. Its a great site!

 

[TFRnoob]

Any differences between 1997 engine and 1998 engine I should be concerned about?

I am trying to get the metal conductor out of the 11271 wire harness connector and I got the with piece to pop up a bit but the metal part is still unable to be removed. I need to get it out so I can crimp the wire back on. Does anyone have any experience with this connector? It is the one that goes to the A/C pump or power steering pump.

 

[cashmoney]

There's a special tool to unpin harnesses without damaging them.

 

[TheDurk]

Any differences between 1997 engine and 1998 engine I should be concerned about?

I am trying to get the metal conductor out of the 11271 wire harness connector and I got the with piece to pop up a bit but the metal part is still unable to be removed. I need to get it out so I can crimp the wire back on. Does anyone have any experience with this connector? It is the one that goes to the A/C pump or power steering pump.

wilbo666 [licensed for non-commercial use only] / Wire Harness Repair Manual (RM1022E).pdf

The above is the 218 page Toyota Factory Wire Harness Repair Manual. You will find the answer to your question, and lots of others, in there. Depending on the connector, I can usually fake the special tool with a jeweler's screwdriver or similar.

 

[TFRnoob]

wilbo666 [licensed for non-commercial use only] / Wire Harness Repair Manual (RM1022E).pdf

The above is the 218 page Toyota Factory Wire Harness Repair Manual. You will find the answer to your question, and lots of others, in there. Depending on the connector, I can usually fake the special tool with a jeweler's screwdriver or similar.

So I tried to get the metal conductor out of the plastic housing and failed. I decided to just sauder the wire to the metal conductor while it was still in the plastic housing. The plastic melted just a little but I do not anticipate that being a problem. However, I am afraid that the connection is delicate and may detach in the future. I am doing my best to keep it secured with electrical tape and sauder. What problem would arise from a failed connection between the wiring harness and A/C pump or power steering pump? Just curious.

 

[TheDurk]

So I tried to get the metal conductor out of the plastic housing and failed. I decided to just sauder the wire to the metal conductor while it was still in the plastic housing. The plastic melted just a little but I do not anticipate that being a problem. However, I am afraid that the connection is delicate and may detach in the future. I am doing my best to keep it secured with electrical tape and sauder. What problem would arise from a failed connection between the wiring harness and A/C pump or power steering pump? Just curious.

90980-11271 is the connector to A/C Magnetic Clutch. So only downside is your A/C would not work. If your repair fails, you can always get a new pigtail from the junkyard or buy a new connector housing and two repair wires from Toyota.

 

[ToyoLex]

I would just swap in a low mileage junkyard motor.

 

[TFRnoob]

Is it possible to get the engine back in and attached to the tranny alone?

I am considering hiring this mobile mechanic for $60/hour to come by and help out but like I said I am on a budget so I am hesitant.

 

[TFRnoob]

bump.

I guess I am gonna be solo on this mission. I heard this guy is legit but wanted to charge $250 to help me guide the engine into the truck and mount the transmission to the engine.

I hope I can do this without help. :noidea:

 

[TFRnoob]

I checked this site out to see what might have changed from the 1997 to 1998 year.

Toyota 4Runner History 1998

I am concerned that I might need to do something to ensure a good engine swap.

Here is what the site says about the new 1998 engine:

5VZ-FE Engine
The power steering idle-up control has been changed to a method which uses a pressure switch and the IAC valve.

What does this exactly mean? and what do I need to do to make this engine work?