Exchanging the cable between battery and fuse box

[Okki]

Bump for questions: :noidea:

1. How do you separate the top part from the bottom part of the fusebox? (Is it more then clips along the edge?)
2. How do you remove the cover of the power cable on the alternator side?
3. Where does the ground cable terminate that runs from the battery down towards the alternator?
4. How do you release the plastic clip that holds the corrugated wire protector in place between the battery and alternator?

Thanks!

Okki

 

[eddiebx]

Bump for questions: :noidea:

1. How do you separate the top part from the bottom part of the fusebox? (Is it more then clips along the edge?)
2. How do you remove the cover of the power cable on the alternator side?
3. Where does the ground cable terminate that runs from the battery down towards the alternator?
4. How do you release the plastic clip that holds the corrugated wire protector in place between the battery and alternator?

Thanks!

Okki

Not sure about the rest of the stuff, but I think if you first unbolt that metal bracket from the firewall, then rotate it around to see where the little tab is that holds the bracket to the plastic clip. Then unlatch the tab and it should slide off, after that you look around and I'm sure there's other tiny tabs around to open the plastic clip so you can get the harness out of it.

Sorry I am not much help, but get yourself a bunch of picks and hooks and tiny flat head screwdrivers, they will be your friend here

My local Home depot has these on special, lol

Husky Precision Pick and Probe Set (4-Piece)-60004H at The Home Depot

 

[eddiebx]

Oh yeah, keep in mind a lot of those harness clamps and stuff, they only open in a specific order I think (ie. remove metal bracket first, then open the clamp to release the harness). This is not specific to the 4runner, I just recall this from way back in the day when I used to make custom wire harnesses for engine swaps. I remember spending hours cursing out plastic clips like the ones in your picture because they just won't release, only to realize you need to remove it off the bracket first, and then release it :frusty:

Good luck Okki!

 

[slugman2894]

On another not you could easily use car stereo wire that was to spec, like say knukonceptz 1/0 wire (rated well over any amperage that battery will see), the hydraulic crimp works well so your good there, no need for any solder as its probably only going to cause more resistance. Home depot has better industrial heatshrink for home wiring that would be better for like $3. Then you'd want to buy loom and tape around the loom to make it look factory with the electrical tape. Not a bad idea, overall not needed unless your pulling a lot for a car audio system or experiencing dimming from another accessory.

 

[Okki]

Bump for questions: :faint:

1. How do you separate the top part from the bottom part of the fusebox? (Is it more then clips along the edge?)
2. How do you remove the cover of the power cable on the alternator side?
3. Where does the ground cable terminate that runs from the battery down towards the alternator?
4. How do you release the plastic clip that holds the corrugated wire protector in place between the battery and alternator?

I'm sure I'm not the first one to try to crack that puppy open!

I'm trying to separate 1 from 5 in the picture above.

Okki

 

[Okki]

Stopped by my Toyota dealer today ... no help there (granted, it was 10 minutes before closing), but basically they said; " yeah that cover near the alternator probably has some clips that you need to push in, and the fusebox you don't want to separate. just use a plate to extend the current connector."

no basically their answer was: no idea and half-ass the rest. Tried to get a print out of the installation instructions for the fusebox, but they didn't want to get the service/shop manager to authorize it.
[MENTION=99235]Scott@Hightech[/MENTION]; do you have any idea/suggestions?

Don't we have any Toyota mechanics in here by chance? Or someone with a more helpful dealer?

The part number for the lower relay box is: 8266360080

Okki

 

[jangoforhire]

Stopped by my Toyota dealer today ... no help there (granted, it was 10 minutes before closing), but basically they said; " yeah that cover near the alternator probably has some clips that you need to push in, and the fusebox you don't want to separate. just use a plate to extend the current connector."

no basically their answer was: no idea and half-ass the rest. Tried to get a print out of the installation instructions for the fusebox, but they didn't want to get the service/shop manager to authorize it.

[MENTION=99235]Scott@Hightech[/MENTION]; do you have any idea/suggestions?

Don't we have any Toyota mechanics in here by chance? Or someone with a more helpful dealer?

The part number for the lower relay box is: 8266360080

Okki

I've got one of those flex cams that I use a lot when running wires or looking for elusive clips like these. I get home tomorrow so I can try and poke around under there with the camera and see if there's any hiding clips.

 

[Scott@Hightech]

Stopped by my Toyota dealer today ... no help there (granted, it was 10 minutes before closing), but basically they said; " yeah that cover near the alternator probably has some clips that you need to push in, and the fusebox you don't want to separate. just use a plate to extend the current connector."

no basically their answer was: no idea and half-ass the rest. Tried to get a print out of the installation instructions for the fusebox, but they didn't want to get the service/shop manager to authorize it.

[MENTION=99235]Scott@Hightech[/MENTION]; do you have any idea/suggestions?

Don't we have any Toyota mechanics in here by chance? Or someone with a more helpful dealer?

The part number for the lower relay box is: 8266360080

Okki

I have not yet had the privilege of taking one of those boxes apart yet. However i Can say that i would be able to figure it out if there was one in front of me. If you wanna just stop by tomorrow ill be around,lane: lol.
The alternator has connectors and then battery lug. that's what your taking off in those steps. and sometimes on Toyotas the cable has some small nuts that hold the cable tight along the edge of the alternator.

Toyota likely won't print out the information for you because they don't have it. That box is probably sold as a unit and isn't serviced separately from the harness( i could be wrong here though).

 

[MeBe4running]

Bump for questions: :faint:

1. How do you separate the top part from the bottom part of the fusebox? (Is it more then clips along the edge?)
2. How do you remove the cover of the power cable on the alternator side?
3. Where does the ground cable terminate that runs from the battery down towards the alternator?
4. How do you release the plastic clip that holds the corrugated wire protector in place between the battery and alternator?

I'm sure I'm not the first one to try to crack that puppy open!

I'm trying to separate 1 from 5 in the picture above.

Okki

Okki, I see what you're trying to do. If I recall correctly there are several "push in clips". Those really annoying, you get it and then it pops back kind of clips. I decided to go the easy route with my battery which has been mentioned here and that was and is to drill a larger hole in the factory positive plate and place it on a battery that would fit, in my case the Odyssey 1700. Two years no problems. Yes the cable has little to no slack but its not tight,tight. I will tell you now even though you know this, there is NOTHING worse than electrical problems, NOTHING. I see a potential headache coming its way, thats all. Hope that helps!

 

[Okki]

I have not yet had the privilege of taking one of those boxes apart yet. However i Can say that i would be able to figure it out if there was one in front of me. If you wanna just stop by tomorrow ill be around,lane: lol.
The alternator has connectors and then battery lug. that's what your taking off in those steps. and sometimes on Toyotas the cable has some small nuts that hold the cable tight along the edge of the alternator.

Toyota likely won't print out the information for you because they don't have it. That box is probably sold as a unit and isn't serviced separately from the harness( i could be wrong here though).

Yeah.... You really need to relocate to a location closer to me.... although it's only a 9 hour drive:lmao: Thanks Scott... Maybe a little side project the next time [MENTION=51030]joneseyyy[/MENTION] leaves his truck unattended :banana:

 

[Okki]

Two years no problems. Yes the cable has little to no slack but its not tight,tight. I will tell you now even though you know this, there is NOTHING worse than electrical problems, NOTHING. I see a potential headache coming its way, thats all. Hope that helps!

Yeah... I had a 300Z with electrical issues... don't get me started. Those were factory provided though.

From what I've been told, there should simply be a lug with a bolt under there that connects that cable. Would be nice to confirm that. Maybe [MENTION=78705]jangoforhire[/MENTION] can see that with his camera. I was able to crack the front corner enough to get one of those probe camera ends in. Just involved unclipping the 3 clips along the front edge with a small screwdriver and one small one on the engine side.

It just pisses me off when I have to half-ass (at least in my mind) things simply because of overcomplicated design. I mean... 4 long bolts (one on each corner) through both sections would hold things in place just as well and actually make it serviceable.

 

[jangoforhire]

I checked yesterday and there's nothing obvious that I could find under there. My aux fuse boxes are positioned right against the factory fuse box though so I couldn't get a good angle on the back side without disconnecting everything. You're not trying to take the whole thing off right?

 

[Okki]

I checked yesterday and there's nothing obvious that I could find under there. My aux fuse boxes are positioned right against the factory fuse box though so I couldn't get a good angle on the back side without disconnecting everything. You're not trying to take the whole thing off right?

I am trying to separate the top and bottom section (item 1 from 5 in the above image) in order to replace the cable that comes in from the battery. Supposedly that cable is connected to the underside of 1 with a lug to a bolt. If you can crack the two sections enough to slide in the flex cam to confirm that, that would be a great help because if it's not a lug and bolt, I will likely give up on trying to extend that cable the right way

 

[Okki]

Got some pictures taken while the engine was cold so I could shove my cellphone down low in the engine bay. Gotta love the voice activated shutter.

I managed to open the cover on the alternator side.

Originally I thought it was a press down cover, but it actually is a top and bottom side that sandwich the power cable. there are two little clips on either side that release the top part.

There also appears to be a clip along the L-shaped part that separates those two halves.

I have not yet confirmed that, but the fact that I can remove the power cable is encouraging.

This is where the whole wire harness connects to the side of the alternator. You can see where the power cable is routed into the long leg of the L-shaped cover.

..... Still working on the fusebox side of things and tracing one of the two ground cables.

Okki

 

[Okki]

Doing some more digging this weekend. [MENTION=78705]jangoforhire[/MENTION], any luck looking into the bottom half of the fuse box?

Thanks!

Okki

 

[Okki]

Forensics continue.....

The wire harness that I'm trying to replace I think is WIRE HARNESS (82122-60630). I've found several suppliers of the part online, but none show a picture/diagram of how/where it's supposed to mount. I was hoping that would give me some more details on what to expect.

I think I have narrowed down the end point of the ground cable, but it's one of two and one is inside a plastic housing (like the positive terminal) and one has a another wire crimped with it into the lug. Neither should be a major problem, but neither is straight forward either.

I also confirmed that the harness is wrapped in some heat resistant tape, so I need to go get some of that as well before I am able to wrap this thing up (all pun intended).

The cable retainer:

You don't need to remove the bracket; there is a clip on the inside of the wrap around piece. if you insert a small screwdriver and push towards the cables being held by the retainer and pull, it will release without issue.

This thing will need to come off so you can separate the wire harness.

Cable guides:
There are two cable guides in play; one directly mounted to the alternator (see some of the pics in previous posts) and one closer towards the transmission.

The wire harness is wrapped in heat reflective tape between the two cable guides.

In the forefront (of the image below) you can see a grounding cable that contains two wires going into the lug. it's an application specific L-shaped lug and it does not look like there is enough wire left on the thin ground to crimp on a new lug once the thick cable is replaced (assuming that is the one that comes from the battery).

The other cable goes to a copper stud which may be the starter, but I'm not sure. I don't think that's the ground cable I'm tracing.

My original goal was to remove the OEM harness clean, but unless I can figure out what the thin ground cable is and where it comes from, that may not happen and I'll have to cut the thick ground cable and leave the thin one attached to the L-Shaped lug.

Fortunately both guides are pretty easy to get to and appear to be held on with just a single bolt.

So far still no luck with the fusebox.

If anyone is going to be near a dealer and is able to score some installation/removal instructions for the fusebox, that would be greatly appreciated! I'm especially interested in separating the two main sections of the fusebox (see diagram section 1 from 5).

Okki

 

[MeBe4running]

Forensics continue.....

The wire harness that I'm trying to replace I think is WIRE HARNESS (82122-60630). I've found several suppliers of the part online, but none show a picture/diagram of how/where it's supposed to mount. I was hoping that would give me some more details on what to expect.

I think I have narrowed down the end point of the ground cable, but it's one of two and one is inside a plastic housing (like the positive terminal) and one has a another wire crimped with it into the lug. Neither should be a major problem, but neither is straight forward either.

I also confirmed that the harness is wrapped in some heat resistant tape, so I need to go get some of that as well before I am able to wrap this thing up (all pun intended).

The cable retainer:

You don't need to remove the bracket; there is a clip on the inside of the wrap around piece. if you insert a small screwdriver and push towards the cables being held by the retainer and pull, it will release without issue.

This thing will need to come off so you can separate the wire harness.

Cable guides:
There are two cable guides in play; one directly mounted to the alternator (see some of the pics in previous posts) and one closer towards the transmission.

The wire harness is wrapped in heat reflective tape between the two cable guides.

In the forefront (of the image below) you can see a grounding cable that contains two wires going into the lug. it's an application specific L-shaped lug and it does not look like there is enough wire left on the thin ground to crimp on a new lug once the thick cable is replaced (assuming that is the one that comes from the battery).

The other cable goes to a copper stud which may be the starter, but I'm not sure. I don't think that's the ground cable I'm tracing.

My original goal was to remove the OEM harness clean, but unless I can figure out what the thin ground cable is and where it comes from, that may not happen and I'll have to cut the thick ground cable and leave the thin one attached to the L-Shaped lug.

Fortunately both guides are pretty easy to get to and appear to be held on with just a single bolt.

So far still no luck with the fusebox.

If anyone is going to be near a dealer and is able to score some installation/removal instructions for the fusebox, that would be greatly appreciated! I'm especially interested in separating the two main sections of the fusebox (see diagram section 1 from 5).

Okki

Your best bet; maybe. Remove battery all together to allow working space. Disconnect positive line coming up from alternator. Unbolt the fuse box (I believe there's three bolts). Then you'll have space to "unclip" the several pressure clips. Thats really the only way I see possible for what your wishing to do. Remember the lazy man works twice!

 

[limamike]

Forensics continue.....

The wire harness that I'm trying to replace I think is WIRE HARNESS (82122-60630). I've found several suppliers of the part online, but none show a picture/diagram of how/where it's supposed to mount. I was hoping that would give me some more details on what to expect.

I think I have narrowed down the end point of the ground cable, but it's one of two and one is inside a plastic housing (like the positive terminal) and one has a another wire crimped with it into the lug. Neither should be a major problem, but neither is straight forward either.

I also confirmed that the harness is wrapped in some heat resistant tape, so I need to go get some of that as well before I am able to wrap this thing up (all pun intended).

The cable retainer:

You don't need to remove the bracket; there is a clip on the inside of the wrap around piece. if you insert a small screwdriver and push towards the cables being held by the retainer and pull, it will release without issue.

This thing will need to come off so you can separate the wire harness.

Cable guides:
There are two cable guides in play; one directly mounted to the alternator (see some of the pics in previous posts) and one closer towards the transmission.

The wire harness is wrapped in heat reflective tape between the two cable guides.

In the forefront (of the image below) you can see a grounding cable that contains two wires going into the lug. it's an application specific L-shaped lug and it does not look like there is enough wire left on the thin ground to crimp on a new lug once the thick cable is replaced (assuming that is the one that comes from the battery).

The other cable goes to a copper stud which may be the starter, but I'm not sure. I don't think that's the ground cable I'm tracing.

My original goal was to remove the OEM harness clean, but unless I can figure out what the thin ground cable is and where it comes from, that may not happen and I'll have to cut the thick ground cable and leave the thin one attached to the L-Shaped lug.

Fortunately both guides are pretty easy to get to and appear to be held on with just a single bolt.

So far still no luck with the fusebox.

If anyone is going to be near a dealer and is able to score some installation/removal instructions for the fusebox, that would be greatly appreciated! I'm especially interested in separating the two main sections of the fusebox (see diagram section 1 from 5).

Okki

I gotta be honest, [MENTION=55815]Okki[/MENTION]: I'm subscribed to this thread because it's a super interesting endeavor to take on, but you're confusing the crap out of me with some of the photos! Any chance you can do some drawing on the photos [MENTION=8206]harper7[/MENTION] style? I know it's more work for you, but I'm sure it would be useful for anyone who digs this up to do it once you've got it all figured-out. Right now it's hard for me to follow even which way is up in some of the photos and where they're taken from, even with your well-written descriptions.

 

[Okki]

I gotta be honest, [MENTION=55815]Okki[/MENTION]: I'm subscribed to this thread because it's a super interesting endeavor to take on, but you're confusing the crap out of me with some of the photos! Any chance you can do some drawing on the photos [MENTION=8206]harper7[/MENTION] style? I know it's more work for you, but I'm sure it would be useful for anyone who digs this up to do it once you've got it all figured-out. Right now it's hard for me to follow even which way is up in some of the photos and where they're taken from, even with your well-written descriptions.

Hahahaha yeah.. I hear you. Doing the write up on the Fumoto valve now. Will put a diagram type picture together after that.

Okki

 

[jangoforhire]

Doing some more digging this weekend. [MENTION=78705]jangoforhire[/MENTION], any luck looking into the bottom half of the fuse box?

Thanks!

Okki

I looked again today as I was cleaning up the engine compartment a bit. It's pretty impossible to separate the halves enough to get my camera in, I tried use a screwdriver to hold it open to see what I could see with my scope but I couldn't make out much of anything. If I was you I would do exactly what MeBe4running said.

Take the battery out and just try and take the whole entire thing off so you can have better access to it.


Sorry I couldn't be of more help!