Extra electric fan for hot temps

Haha, this thread got really technical really fast!

End of the day though, it's not really going to make a whole lot of a difference. For some of use the cooler ones have its benefits, but for most not much if any at all.
 
I have to agree with Nevada and Jeremy, the coolant will open fully while the temp is cooler, but that won't last long enough to even mention. There is no thermal benefit to the thermostat opening sooner, it will not "run" at a cooler temperature. The primary job of the thermostat is to warm the engine up quicker, so in that sense the 180 will warm the engine quicker than the 170. In 120 degrees, we are talking seconds, not even minutes. As jeremy said, it is a regulator, in colder weather it has more responsibility. Look at the race car/tuner websites and they will all agree. The temp rating of the thermostat is more like a low setting, not a high setting, and has no effect on the "run" temperature. NONE.

:grouphug:

Yeah, for cold climates a colder thermostat can be bad, plus you heater will take a bit longer to heat up in the morning! I don't know what the overnight or winters are like in the Middle East, only been there in the summer when it's stupid hot all the time.

I think we can all agree that the thermostat does very little to control the operating temperature of the vehicle and as long as it works, there should be no major issues no matter what climate it is in.
 
I think we can all agree that the thermostat does very little to control the operating temperature of the vehicle and as long as it works, there should be no major issues no matter what climate it is in.

That part of what everyone here is saying is false. See my post a few posts ago.

Since you have the TRD thermostat, what temps are you seeing? Assuming you have a scanguage.
 
That part of what everyone here is saying is false. See my post a few posts ago.

Since you have the TRD thermostat, what temps are you seeing? Assuming you have a scanguage.

I haven't paid a whole lot of attention to it lately but last time I did monitor it I was in the 190-195 range. But I don't have a lead foot so most of the time I am at very low or no boost and that was before it's been 100 degrees outside every day.
 
I haven't paid a whole lot of attention to it lately but last time I did monitor it I was in the 190-195 range. But I don't have a lead foot so most of the time I am at very low or no boost and that was before it's been 100 degrees outside every day.

Exactly. A supercharged 5VZ with OEM thermostat would run 200+ all day.
 
Everyone has valid points with valid reasoning behind it, and we aren't all disagreeing with each other. I think we need Toyota to chime in here and give it to us straight up :)
 
A lower rated thermostat WILL cause the engine to run at a lower normal operating temp. What people here have been saying (which is also true) is that once the engine is above the normal temp the thermostat is designed for, it is up to the rest of the cooling system to bring it back to that temp.

Read this for more info:
Stant

No it won't, it only sets the minimum temp at which coolant will flow, it cannot do anything else. Read the purpose section of the website you linked, it says it regulates temperature, but that is FALSE, it cannot regulate temperature, only coolant flow. Stant sells thermostats and radiator caps, they don't build cars. I won't link to websites here because anyone can say the same thing about what ever I quote. Until I can find a neutral source that is.

We can argue all day, but I won't agree with you. But if you can explain something I don't understand, please do.

Let's start here. How does a thermostat, once an engine reaches 200 degrees, create a situation where the temp would come down to 190, if it is rated at or below 180?
:shrug:

OK, I see I misread what you said, in effect you are agreeing with me in theory, yet you say it will lower the operating temp, but it can't. Tell me how it can lower the operating temp if it can't do anything once the temp is above the rating?
 
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In temps like you will find in the mid east, consider having a custom radiator built, all aluminun with a higher cooling capacity. The T-stat should remain stock so the computer knows how to regulate the engine. What you want is a more efficient radiator that can cool the engine so you dont get heat soak.

The fact that you can afford to ship a truck to another country tells me money isnt an issue. You wont regret it.
 
Let's start here. How does a thermostat, once an engine reaches 200 degrees, create a situation where the temp would come down to 190, if it is rated at or below 180?
:shrug:

OK, I see I misread what you said, in effect you are agreeing with me in theory, yet you say it will lower the operating temp, but it can't. Tell me how it can lower the operating temp if it can't do anything once the temp is above the rating?

The thermostat is fully open at 15 degrees above the opening temp (aka the rated temp). For the OEM thermostat that is around 195 degrees. We agree on this yes?

The cooling system is working as hard as the thermostat is letting it work, if the cooling system can get the temp below that level then the thermostat will close up a bit to slow the cooling. We agree still?

Well with a lower rated thermostat, that level that it holds the temps to is much lower.


NOW, what you are saying is if the temps are above 200-ish and the cooling system cannot get it lower correct? Well that circumstance is due to the cooling system not working as well as it should be. At that point it does not matter what thermostat you have.
 
The thermostat is fully open at 15 degrees above the opening temp (aka the rated temp). For the OEM thermostat that is around 195 degrees. We agree on this yes?

The cooling system is working as hard as the thermostat is letting it work, if the cooling system can get the temp below that level then the thermostat will close up a bit to slow the cooling. We agree still?

Well with a lower rated thermostat, that level that it holds the temps to is much lower.


NOW, what you are saying is if the temps are above 200-ish and the cooling system cannot get it lower correct? Well that circumstance is due to the cooling system not working as well as it should be. At that point it does not matter what thermostat you have.

Ahhh, the ubiquitous "if". I understand your idea now, yes we agree on that line. No chance of it happening, but I like the theory.

Using your supercharged analogy, if the system is capable of cooling to 195 with a 170 thermostat, it should be able to do so with a 180. I realize 15 degrees is just a round number, but if it could, it would.
 
When I was supercharged with a 170 degree thermostat, I usually ran around 185-190 degrees. That was with a new radiator and water wetter so my cooling system was also working very well.
 
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The only way a new thermostat can cure an overheating engine problem is if the old thermostat is malfunctioning. If a cooling system has the capacity to properly cool the engine it will do so with any functioning thermostat approved for the engine. The 5VZ is designed to run in the low to mid 190s, so the perfect thermostat is one that starts to open 10-15 degrees below that.
 
In temps like you will find in the mid east, consider having a custom radiator built, all aluminun with a higher cooling capacity. The T-stat should remain stock so the computer knows how to regulate the engine. What you want is a more efficient radiator that can cool the engine so you dont get heat soak.

The fact that you can afford to ship a truck to another country tells me money isnt an issue. You wont regret it.

Any modern vehicle has been extensively tested in extremely high heat, and arctic temps.

As long as the cooling system is operating as designed, it won't have a problem with the extreme temps in the middle east.

I've spent a fair amount of time in Qatar, with a racing organization I was a part of. Some of the support vehicles used, are the exact same specification as what you can buy in the States. Although they usually spec a little higher viscosity oil, because they aren't trying to achieve some CAFE number. But T-stat's and radiators are the same as what you find with the USA sold drivetrain.

Now if we're talking an extensively modified engine, making significantly more power, then a custom Al radiator is a good idea.
 
Don't add condenser fans. I had two and it blocked the air flow to the radiator when those are not running. Even when they are running it still obstructs the air flow to the mail fan. The Factory fan is very powerful. Make sure your fan clutch is factory and working properly.
I removed the electric fans and AC feels the same.
Get a new radiator if possible
Remove any dirt/bugs stuck in the ac condenser. Cover the alternator with a plastic bag and then remove the grill and apply a high pressure water perpendicular to the AC condenser to rid the bugs/dirt. I do this before each summer.
 
Try adding:
-external oil cooler
-larger capacity all aluminum radiator
-external Auto Transmission Cooler (bypass the radiator)
-wrap your exhaust manifolds with some heat wrap
 
It's 115 here today, and will be for the next few months. Never had an issue with stock thermostat with either of my 3rd gens. Keep in mind folks, it's nearly as harmful to run your engine under proper operating temperature as it is to run over temp.

Some recommended reading on the subject of electric fans and aux cooling.

Like Absalom said,
it gets just as hot in AZ and the stock cooling system works just fine. I've never seen my temps get above 197 in 120 degree weather.
 
im gonna chime in here...

last summer when i was having over heating issues because of a bad fan clutch i did a few things. i replaced the radiator(TYC), replaced the coolant(using toyota red), and replaced my thermostat(TRD 160*)... i also added dual electric fans. anyhow i finally got things to all work right, took some work ect. but i swapped back and forth a couple of times on the stock 195* thermostat and the 160* -both toyota units. anyhow with everything else being held the same, same driving patterns(routes and speeds/loads) and same ambient temps my truck ran noticeably cooler by about 15*+/-(via the scan gauge) with the TRD 160* thermostat. nothing else was changed, and these were back to back tests done by me because i thought i noticed a temp difference, and i did. it is not noticeable enough to see on the gauge in the dash, but a digital gauge will show it.

the TRD thermostat is still within spec for the vehicle to run and the computer to not try and over correct the issue. even though its a 160* thermostat it still runs around 180-185*.

now to the OP my i suggest buying some run cool hood vents RunCool Hood Louvers - Hood Vents For Your Vehicle - Cool Your EngineHood Louvers | RunCool | Hood Vents For Your Vehicle ? i put a set on my runner and wow there was a huge improvement in under hood temps. so much so that my dual Efans did not have to run constantly, and only ran intermittently. you can see and feel the heat venting from these even after the truck is shut down. not to mention they look cool and are easy to install.
10354800_10152614294573735_1438973479169802214_n by Isaac Yocum, on Flickr
10561716_10152614295298735_6167318023094711612_n by Isaac Yocum, on Flickr
10570434_10152614294738735_5115696695295611030_n by Isaac Yocum, on Flickr
 

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