Hepar
New member
If there's anyone here who hasn't, they should get the boot.
-You're late
~We had car trouble
-What kind of car trouble?
~I believe it was the radiator.
Extreme 3rd Gen Build! Insane!
- Thread starter NotKewl
- Start date
If there's anyone here who hasn't, they should get the boot.
-You're late
~We had car trouble
-What kind of car trouble?
~I believe it was the radiator.
eatpasta
New member
:becky:
yeah, there are some good lines in the movie - very cheesy.
I still wanted to cut a smash-up trailer of Days of Thunder and Top Gun intermixing shots from both movies for no reason and call it: Top Thunder: Days of Gun
Maybe when my kids leave for college....in 20whatever
Metallurgist
New member
Forgive my rookie wiring question here...what is the purpose of dual batteries? My very limited understanding of electrical wiring tells me that the battery is to get it started and the alt takes over from there which would mean that any additional power supply needs come from more alt output. Is the second battery just to help overcome large current draw until the alt can catch back up? I know they're standard on diesels, but I never really understood that either.
NotKewl
New member
My two favorite movies!
"If you want to turn yourselves into a greasy spot on a country road somewhere, go right ahead. I don't give a shit and I don't think anybody else does! Regardless of what they say to your face. But you two monkey's are not going to do it on my racetrack!... You two so much as trade paint, you even touch, I'm going to black flag the both of you, tear apart your race cars for 300 laps, then if you manage to get them back together and pass inspection, I might let you back in the race."
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NotKewl
New member
Diesels have them for the same reason I want them. You run them in parallel so you can isolate one from the other, but charge both off the same alternator. The extra battery is for running big things like winches (or snow plow equipment on a big diesel.) You can switch between batteries or use them both at the same time when you need "emergency power" Say a long winch pull or running big lights. You need to run deep cycle batteries too. I'm running a Optima Yellow Top D34/78 Series and will run an Optima Blue top D34/78 series which is a deep cycle marine battery. Running them in a series you double the voltage (like stacking AA's in a flashlight) but your amps stay the same. Two 12 volts now act as one 24 volt, which I don't want. Parallel means I have 12 volts, but my amperage is now doubled. So if both batts have 740 cranking amps of output, two in parallel give you 1480 maximum amps of burst power. Winching can really do damage to a battery if the charging system and battery are not set up to handle constant loads of high amps. Thus an isolator switch and duel batteries.
True your alternator takes over to power the engine ignition (which is why when you cut power the engine stops). But everything else runs off the battery. The alternator needs to be powerful enough to run the vehicle and replace the energy lost in the battery running things like lights, wipers, winches. Exceed the rated load on the system and you end up with a dead battery even when the car is running while winching (ask me how I know). I plan to upgrade the alernator too eventually.
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NotKewl
New member
I don't have time to tear the axle apart and replace the seals. Remember, I didn't do anything to the internals of this axle except welding the spider gears. I left all the factory stuff in place. Didn't know it leaked because it didn't have any gear oil in it when I got it. The only way to tell (aside from this current scenario) would have been to tear down the center section and inspect the seals.
It's not a big deal. I'll seal up the end of the axle best I can with a big ass grommet over the axle shaft and carry a ton of gear oil with me to Trail Fest. That's enough to get me through that week. For now, nothing is going to hurt these nearly 40-year-old gears and if it does so what, I plan to regear it to 5.13 or 5.36 gears later anyway, so I'll fix it all then.
185Runner
New member
Diesels have to batteries to get enough CCA to crank that pig over while maintaining power to the ignition system required to atomize the fuel for starts.
Had one dead cell in my diesel, thing would crank and crank but wouldn't fire because the voltage dropped below 12v at the injection pump.
Had one dead cell in my diesel, thing would crank and crank but wouldn't fire because the voltage dropped below 12v at the injection pump.
NotKewl
New member
That too!
19963.4lsr5
New member
That's where a old school mechanically injected diesel comes in handy. But saying that the manifold preheat on my 94 Cummins is about 250a and the starter has a free running amp draw of 600+ amps. So you need dual batteries that have enough RC to handle two or three start attempts when it's 0 degrees F outside. Plus the Cummins starter is rated at 3.3hp.
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185Runner
New member
19963.4lsr5
New member
I've got an old school diesel
86 6.9
On my Cummins everything is mechanical. Including the lift pump. Your 12v pump is in the tank?
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185Runner
New member
The loss was at the injection pump up in the valley. There are two wires on the side. One to advance the idle and the other to run.
NotKewl
New member
Love me an old Cummings 4BT and 6BT. I'd love to put one in this beast.
19963.4lsr5
New member
A kewl build by NotKewl
The baby Cummins is a popular swap in lots of things. From a CJ7 to old pickup trucks to rat rods.
Edit: and everything done or bolted to mine works on the 4BT
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The baby Cummins is a popular swap in lots of things. From a CJ7 to old pickup trucks to rat rods.
Edit: and everything done or bolted to mine works on the 4BT
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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eatpasta
New member
Howard Hughes used to have a 24v system in one of his cars so if the paparazzi was chasing him, he could start his plane from his car.
Read aboot it here
NotKewl
New member
It left the shop this afternoon to do a dry run up my street to test brakes, engine performance, etc. First time in over six months! I actually got dirt on the tires (from my lawn, unfortunately, damn locked axles!) Felt great, until.... I noticed a very nasty issue with the engine. It would not rev above 3,000 RPM (Limp mode) and tranny would not shift. Grrrr. So I stuck my OBD II thingy on it and checked the codes. Duh, Brent! I forgot to put the MAF Sensor back on. So I cleared the codes, reset the ECU, and installed the MAF sensor. Bam! Runs like a top now. One more test run tomorrow to tweak brakes and test engine again, then into the shop for finish welding, seat installations, harness installations, maybe some paint and few more little things. Saturday, more tweaking and finish work, then SUNDAY (weather and time permitting), I hope to get it to the offroad park for a shakedown run and some fine tuning.
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NotKewl
New member
So I have bled the crap out of these brakes and they are still squishy and pedal goes to the floor if you hold it down. Yeah, it stops, but only by pumping. It's scary if you go too fast. The 2002 model shop manual says the brakes must be bled using a proprietary Toyota meter connected to the OBD Port because of the computerized ABS crap! The two rear brake lines don't push fluid at all, thus I had to splice the rear brakes into one of the front lines. I have brakes now and line lock works-ish, but still squishy as hell. You think I can swap the master cylinder with one from 1996 without ABS? Maybe that will work? I mean seriously, it has to be the master cylinder because there is no air in the lines at all. An entire HUGE bottle of DOT 3 fluid (and a big mess on the floor) later I can tell you there is NO AIR in the lines. It's got to be the ABS master crap cylinder, right?
Chuckles89
New member
Yeah, get a non ABS master cylinder. Those 01-02 ones are pretty crazy from what I've heard.
Unner
New member
How were you bleeding the rears? You need to have the key in the ignition turned to ON. Then just hold the brake pedal down and the fluid will pump it self out when you open the bleeder, there is no need to do the traditional up and down on the rear brakes. The front should bleed as normal, but I usually leave the key in the ignition at ON anyway.
This is only for 01-02 since they have TRAC/VSC, and 4 channel ABS. If you notice there isn't even a brake booster on the 01-02. It's all one electronic control unit thing. I don't know about swapping to a non-abs, you'd have to add a master cylinder at the very least. Not sure if I've ever seen anyone do it.
This is only for 01-02 since they have TRAC/VSC, and 4 channel ABS. If you notice there isn't even a brake booster on the 01-02. It's all one electronic control unit thing. I don't know about swapping to a non-abs, you'd have to add a master cylinder at the very least. Not sure if I've ever seen anyone do it.
