Carova Colton
New member
Jivewalker, thanks for the service manual. TrueType appreciate it !!
Flooded my 4runner passenger side!
- Thread starter Carova Colton
- Start date
Carova Colton
New member
Just got the kick in the nuts again. The ECM that I ordered was damaged and Will be refunded. Thanks for the link and the lead, it just didn’t pan out this time. Currently I kicked the truck on and still no communication with ECM but now the transmission position indicator is blank again.
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waypoint
Member
Hit Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market and look up "Engine Computer" for your truck, find one locally or shippable at a decent price.
Carova Colton
New member
Thanks Waypoint! You da man!
Any idea on the blank shift position window on my dash?
Thank you
Any idea on the blank shift position window on my dash?
Thank you
umidkusername
New member
I initially read this as wayalife and immediately thought of that pony tail douche. Then I reread and relaxed.
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waypoint
Member
Until you get the ECM back in the game and talking to the OBD-II port, it's not possible to diagnose. It's likely that the ECM monitors shifter position and reports this info to the gauge cluster, or that the fuse that powers the shifter position sensor is blown.
I only have wiring diagrams for 4th gen 4Runners, and didn't see any on the service manual linked above...but there are likely similarities and they're easy to check.
Pull the cover on your under-hood fuse panel and examine the IGN1 fuse (may be labeled IG1). On 4th gens this also powers the shifter position sensor. Also check the fuses labeled IGN, EFI, and GAUGE. By check, I mean remove and test for continuity with an Ohm meter. Let us know what you find.
flyrv9
New member
I believe the transmission position indication comes from the switch on the passenger side of the transmission. It has been the subject of other threads because it is prone to corrosion. That position indication may be handled by one of the ECU's though. Just wanted to make the OP aware the switch could be a factor here.
[MENTION=147877]Carova Colton[/MENTION], I might be able chime in and help here if possible. I've played around with my 4Runner electronics more than most.
All information going to the instrument cluster occurs via the vehicle CAN bus or via a direct line. Shifter position, RPM, etc is all via the CAN bus, with the charge indicator (batt.) check engine light, and fuel gauge being direct line. The Instrument Cluster and the ECM are the two ECUs that act as the termination ends of the bus.
Seeing the outside temp, compass direction, etc. in the cluster means the CAN bus is functioning partially. This can be due to either;
A) A blown 10-A ECU-B fuse in the engine bay (would explain not being able to access the vehicle with a diagnostic tool via the OBD port) or,
B) A direct short between CAN High and CAN Low. There are junction connectors located next to the ECM that are where the CANH and CANL twisted wires from the ECUs join (2 connectors for you since you have a limited, one for everyone else). There is another on the driver side as well. You need to check those two connectors near the ECM (Green Arrow) and make sure there is no corrosion there.
I would also check the 10A ETCS, 20 IG2, 20A A/F, 10A INJ, and 25A EFI Fuses in the engine bay. Check the fuses the way [MENTION=172281]waypoint[/MENTION] outlined with an Ohm meter. Can't tell you how many times a fuse looked good to the eye and was still bad.
If that does not solve it you most likely need a replacement ECM.
If you do not have the TOYOTA TIS Techstream, you will need it to replace the ECM, so I recommend spending the $30 or so for a copy and the OBD usb cord. It will also help with diagnosing any other ECU related issues more than a generic scanner.
If you have to replace the ECM, I can walk you through the process of adding your VIN to the replacement ECU and pairing the smart key and immobilizer system, as the engine will crank with the replacement, but will not fire unless this is done. Crank the replacement too many times before doing this and the ECM will lock up.
Check these fuses and connectors and report back :thumb3:
All information going to the instrument cluster occurs via the vehicle CAN bus or via a direct line. Shifter position, RPM, etc is all via the CAN bus, with the charge indicator (batt.) check engine light, and fuel gauge being direct line. The Instrument Cluster and the ECM are the two ECUs that act as the termination ends of the bus.
Seeing the outside temp, compass direction, etc. in the cluster means the CAN bus is functioning partially. This can be due to either;
A) A blown 10-A ECU-B fuse in the engine bay (would explain not being able to access the vehicle with a diagnostic tool via the OBD port) or,
B) A direct short between CAN High and CAN Low. There are junction connectors located next to the ECM that are where the CANH and CANL twisted wires from the ECUs join (2 connectors for you since you have a limited, one for everyone else). There is another on the driver side as well. You need to check those two connectors near the ECM (Green Arrow) and make sure there is no corrosion there.
I would also check the 10A ETCS, 20 IG2, 20A A/F, 10A INJ, and 25A EFI Fuses in the engine bay. Check the fuses the way [MENTION=172281]waypoint[/MENTION] outlined with an Ohm meter. Can't tell you how many times a fuse looked good to the eye and was still bad.
If that does not solve it you most likely need a replacement ECM.
If you do not have the TOYOTA TIS Techstream, you will need it to replace the ECM, so I recommend spending the $30 or so for a copy and the OBD usb cord. It will also help with diagnosing any other ECU related issues more than a generic scanner.
If you have to replace the ECM, I can walk you through the process of adding your VIN to the replacement ECU and pairing the smart key and immobilizer system, as the engine will crank with the replacement, but will not fire unless this is done. Crank the replacement too many times before doing this and the ECM will lock up.
Check these fuses and connectors and report back :thumb3:
Last edited:
Gamma Ray
Banned
This is a pro tip for life. I always use a multimeter to check fuses. It's the most reliable way.
Carova Colton
New member
Thanks Old Red. You guys all have been a great resource. Thank you!
Carova Colton
New member
Old Red, is there a OBD2 usb cord you recommend? I went straight to Toyota and getting the software from them would be a no go. The version I would need is $65 and you have to send security documentation. Next I went to Amazon as my go to. They had some cords there and included software that would have to be run in a virtual box most likely because it’s a Chinese bootleg. Is there any one that you would recommend? That you have and works? Reviews were not very good for most of them due to the software issues. I will pull out the fluke today and read out the fuses.
Thanks
Thanks
Carova Colton
New member
Thanks Old Red, I used a fluke and read out all the fuses that you identified and they all have good continuity. The new ECM arrived and I installed it and we are getting closer to good. I am now seeing the transmission position in the window on the dash and my scan tool is talking to the truck. The only codes are mass air flow sensor because I disconnected it, air flow temp sensor because the same and cam shaft position sensor because I inadvertently ripped the wires out of it and still need to fix it. No codes that I didn’t impose. I pulled the plugs and went to turn over the truck to see if it would start and when I hit the push button the dash and center console electronics went dark then reenergized. I pulled the CAN bus like you said and there doesn’t seem to be any corrosion. I sprayed it all out with WD40 again for good measure with not change. I did notice that on the Canbus connector (mine has 2- a white plug high and a grey plug beneath it, the red wire on the grey plug had a small nick in it. I taped it up with no change. Still waiting on the cable that I ordered from Amazon. Should be here tomorrow with the Techstream software. So awesome we have more freezing rain moving in tonight! Thanks team.
waypoint
Member
edit: did you sync the immobilizer after installing the new ECM as shown in the video I linked earlier? If not, do that (assuming that procedure works on 5th gens) as you might be fighting the immobilizer given the new ECM.
This sounds like the starter has seized, and it's overdrawing current when the solenoid is energized.
Ordinarily I'd say remove the starter relay (underhood fuse panel) and test the starter by jumping the two service circuit pins. However, given it's been dunked and then sat for extended time I'd recommend just removing the starter and having it tested at a parts store or mom 'n pop automotive electrical shop.
Carova Colton
New member
Waypoint, I tried that today twice shorting the 4 and 13 pins and it didn’t work. I got the techstream software and cable and got it to work. It is still reading the old VIN on the ECM.
Old Red, can you walk me through the procedure to fix it. I don’t want to play around yet and do any damage lol.
Old Red, can you walk me through the procedure to fix it. I don’t want to play around yet and do any damage lol.
[MENTION=147877]Carova Colton[/MENTION], I didn't know you responded, so sorry for the delay. Use the "@" symbol in front of a users name, and we get a notification when we are mentioned, otherwise we have no clue.
I remember getting mine off Amazon, but no there is no specific ones that I would recommend. I would mainly get the amazon one just for the USB to OBD cord. You can pay the $65 for the two day Toyota TIS Techstream software, and have a legitimate copy to use for two days if you are inclined to go that route. The security documentation thing is for making a key, and what not. It's mainly Toyota doing a CYA move for providing the software.
Good, so the ECM is getting full power, and it looks like the replacement is communicating on the CAN Bus. I wouldn't worry to much about the small nick in the insulation on the red wire, as annoying as it probably is. The white connector is a smaller sub CAN bus that runs between the ECM, Power management ECU, and the A/C amplifier ECU (Since you have a limited with the push start. It sounds like [MENTION=172281]waypoint[/MENTION] might be on the right track with the starter. If the Immobilizer and ECM are not synced it should crank but not fire. Since you have wires broken to the cam position sensor, I don't know if that would prevent it from cranking, but it is possible. I would get those wires fixed and look at the starter before trying to turn it over again. Again, check the fuses for the starter as well.
I also sent you a PM with a few PDFs for some reading material about the push start system and how to go about syncing the replacement ECM and original immobilizer together. I also included the Vin process. Keep us posted.
Carova Colton
New member
I will pull the starter and see if I can test it.
Carova Colton
New member
Thanks [MENTION=150567]Old Red[/MENTION], and Thanks [MENTION=172281]waypoint[/MENTION]. you guys have been great. I’ll get the starter out this week to test and [MENTION=150567]Old Red[/MENTION] work through the process that you send me to rename the VIN and synch the keys with the cable and software.
I’ll let you know where I stand once I get that done. Cheers.
I’ll let you know where I stand once I get that done. Cheers.
freak4life
New member
Good man
Carova Colton
New member
I booted up the software and was able to rewrite the VIN on the replacement ECU. I think I programmed the smart key fobs and I did [MENTION=172281]waypoint[/MENTION]’s pin jump hack with the 4 and 13 slots and paper clip. Next is to re-lace the starter and that camshaft position sensor plug.
Carova Colton
New member
@oldred, [MENTION=172281]waypoint[/MENTION], have any of you guys changed out the starter? I got the thing out but not out. I have spun that thing every which way and can’t get it through. I even removed the brake line brackets so I can move it as well. The steering column is in the way and the exhaust. Is there a trick? Only video I saw was for a 4th and 3rd gen and it’s a bit different. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
