Freekin' SLIP light!

GrantK

GrantK

New member
Well I've got my lift done and removed the rake at the same time (pics coming). :banana:

Went through the Yaw Rate and Acceleration Sensor Zero Point Calibration about ten times and can't get the slip (or is it slop?) light to go out, it just stays on solid. No other lights are coming on so I don't think it's a broken wire. :ybrick:

Looks like a trip to the dealer, to get them to re-calibrate things, is on my TODO list, crap. :cry:
 
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I went to the dealership to get my slip light checked and while they ran the diagnostic about 20 codes came up lol. But the one that had to do with the slip light was some pressure sensor on the t-case. I'm getting the diagnostic finished up on friday, I'm pretty happy cause it all under warranty!
 
GrantK said:
Well I've got my lift done and removed the rake at the same time (pics coming). :banana:

Went through the Yaw Rate and Acceleration Sensor Zero Point Calibration about ten times and can't get the slip (or is it slop?) light to go out, it just stays on solid. No other lights are coming on so I don't think it's a broken wire. :ybrick:

Looks like a trip to the dealer, to get them to re-calibrate things, is on my TODO list, crap. :cry:
Click to expand...
What DTC's are you getting?
 
harper7 said:
This is the 21st Century .....all vehicles have onboard computers with diagnostics that help narrow down a problem.
OBDII readers......You know you can buy one for less then $20??? :bigok:
Amazon.com: obdii reader: Automotive

A little more money but I highly recommend the Scangauge II so you can monitor and scan real time.
Click to expand...

Ya, don't rub it in. I've been meaning to get one but haven't had a need until now so it's been at the bottom of my priority list. Maybe the local AutoZone or O'Reilly's can read the code(s) for me until I get a reader of my own.
 
GrantK said:
Ya, don't rub it in. I've been meaning to get one but haven't had a need until now so it's been at the bottom of my priority list. Maybe the local AutoZone or O'Reilly's can read the code(s) for me until I get a reader of my own.
Click to expand...

Yep, They usually help out and will read them for you.Then we will have something to work with.
 
mutau052 said:
Does this problem only hAppen with TE or can a SR5 have the same problem?
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It's been reported in the SR5 so I believe it's in all three models. Usually doing the Yaw Rate and Acceleration Sensor Zero Point Calibration, which you should do after a lift anyway, makes it go away.
 
I've read numerous threads regarding resetting these particular anomalies. What's funny is, my shop has lifted dozens of these 5th gens with not one single calibration. :shrug:
 
Just ran over to AutoZone and their scanner comes up clean, no codes at all. Makes me wonder if either their scanner is too old or I screwed up the recalibration.
 
harper7 said:
It drives fine though?
Maybe disconnect the battery for 10 minutes to see if it clears it.
Click to expand...
Seems to drive fine.
I haven't tried dropping into 4H or 4L and need to get used to the new 'feel' of the truck but handling seems normal, nose dive is reduced since I de-raked it.

[EDIT]
I just reconnected the battery after leaving it disconnected for about 1/2 hr. and it didn't help.
The AutoZone that I went to has the SG2 for $150 which seems to be a fair price so I'm thinking about picking one up, if I can use it as a stand-alone scanner in case I decide I don't want to permanently mount it in my truck. I got a funny feeling (might be the Wendy's Spicy Chicken sammich I had for dinner) that the old scanner AutoZone used isn't reading all the codes, just the engine error ones.
[\EDIT]
 
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My Slip/traction kicks in on 2 particular turns in my area. I can always replicate it to. Most other turns it never kicks in. I don't frequent those areas to often so I'm not too worried about it. The next time i'm at the dealership i'll have them take care of it.

adio3x- That same pressure sensor on the t-case was replaced on mine a few months back. It was cracked and was throwin' weird codes around. It was all replaced under warranty free of charge.
 
I'm getting the diagnostic finished up on friday
a98.jpg
 
Went back to AutoZone and picked up the SG2. It also says no codes found. I did a force clear and nothing changed. It also said NOT READY which means that the truck is still adjusting engine parameters, probably do to only driving 8mi since disconnecting the battery last night.
 
GrantK said:
Went back to AutoZone and picked up the SG2. It also says no codes found. I did a force clear and nothing changed. It also said NOT READY which means that the truck is still adjusting engine parameters, probably do to only driving 8mi since disconnecting the battery last night.
Click to expand...

"not ready" is referring to the monitors of your vehicle. For example, your heated o2 sensor circuit, catalytic coverter, evap system, etc. You have to drive through whats called 'drive cycles' for them to clear. A drive cycle consists of multiple parameters that must be met before your computer can run each test. Each drive cycle for each vehicle and each manufacture greatly differ. There is not a consistent way to explain this.

For example, in a 2000 Honda Accord you must complete the following,
drive 55-60mph for 38 secs.
decelerate from 24-16mph within 15 secs.
maintain speeds over 45 mph for 42 secs.
and so on.

So a drive cycle may take minutes or hours depending on the driving condition you experience.
 
GrantK said:
Went back to AutoZone and picked up the SG2. It also says no codes found. I did a force clear and nothing changed. It also said NOT READY which means that the truck is still adjusting engine parameters, probably do to only driving 8mi since disconnecting the battery last night.
Click to expand...

The code reader you can buy at the store read Generic codes only. You will need to get a obd2 cable from ebay and also techtream software if you want to find out whats going on. Although, good luck finding a cable from china that doesnt have issues.
 
motioneffects said:
The code reader you can buy at the store read Generic codes only. You will need to get a obd2 cable from ebay and also techtream software if you want to find out whats going on. Although, good luck finding a cable from china that doesnt have issues.
Click to expand...
You nailed it!
Well it does read some,but not all Toyota specific codes but your right in this case that obviously the KDSS ones aren't coming up.

Grant , if your sure you followed the http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...celeration-sensor-zero-point-calibration.html step by step all the way to the end and it didn't work,then you'll have to take it to the dealer or get the Techstream software and cable to further troubleshoot the problem. I bought the cable on ebay from a Florida seller and mine works on a XP Pro loaded laptop.

I've been going through the repair manual and for troubleshooting KDSS and it has it looking up the DTC'S through Techstream and a link to trouble shoot them out to the side.

To get there in the repair manual it's under Suspension/Suspension Control/Kinetic Dynamic Suspension System

Kinetic Dynamic Suspension System
DTC CODE
DETECTION ITEM
TROUBLE AREA

C1812/12
Pressure Sensor Malfunction / Upside
- Harness or connector
- Accumulator pressure sensor (Stabilizer control with accumulator housing assembly)
- Stabilizer control ECU

C1831/31
Accumulator Solenoid Malfunction / Upside
- Harness or connector
- Stabilizer control solenoid valve (Stabilizer control with accumulator housing assembly)
- Stabilizer control ECU

C1832/32
Accumulator Solenoid Malfunction / Downside
- Harness or connector
- Stabilizer control solenoid valve (Stabilizer control with accumulator housing assembly)
- Stabilizer control ECU

C1851/51
Low Pressure Malfunction in Upside of KDSS System
- Hydraulic circuit
- Harness or connector
- Accumulator pressure sensor or stabilizer control solenoid valve (Stabilizer control with accumulator housing assembly)
- Stabilizer control ECU

C1853/53
High Pressure Malfunction in Upside of KDSS System
- Hydraulic circuit
- Harness or connector
- Accumulator pressure sensor or stabilizer control solenoid valve (Stabilizer control with accumulator housing assembly)
- Stabilizer control ECU

C1879/79
Zero Point Calibration of Acceleration Sensor Undone
- Brake control system (Yaw rate and acceleration sensor zero point calibration)
- Stabilizer control ECU

C1881/81
KDSS ECU Malfunction
Stabilizer control ECU

C1882/82
Power Supply Voltage Malfunction
- Battery
- Charging system
- KDSS fuse
- Harness or connector
- Stabilizer control ECU

C1883/83
Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
- Brake control system
- CAN communication system
- Stabilizer control ECU

C1884/84
Steering Angle Sensor Circuit Malfunction
- Steering angle sensor (Spiral cable sub-assembly)
- CAN communication system
- Stabilizer control ECU

C1887/87
Acceleration Sensor Circuit Malfunction
- Yaw rate and acceleration sensor
- CAN communication system
- Stabilizer control ECU

U0100/71
Lost Communication with ECM / PCM "A
CAN communication system

U0122/71
Lost Communication with Vehicle Dynamics Control Module
CAN communication system

U0124/71
Lost Communication with Lateral Acceleration Sensor Module
CAN communication system

U0126/71
Lost Communication with Steering Angle Sensor Module
CAN communication system
 
harper7 said:
Grant , if your sure you followed the http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...celeration-sensor-zero-point-calibration.html step by step all the way to the end and it didn't work,then you'll have to take it to the dealer or get the Techstream software and cable to further troubleshoot the problem. I bought the cable on ebay from a Florida seller and mine works on a XP Pro loaded laptop.
Click to expand...

WOW!!! That's a lot of research into the depths of the RM. I greatly thank you!!!!!!!!!!

I, obviously, believe I did the calibration correctly. However, based on posts here, I'm going to play bystander and say that I must have screwed up somewhere. Since I had clipped the wires in place and was manually shorting them I think that's the place to start. I need to get an OBD plug, a switch/pushbutton, some wire and make a calibration "SST" of my own so I know I've got a good connection and better control of shorting them. Then go try the calibration procedure again.

If it still fails, it's time to go visit the dealer.

Thanks for all the help everyone.
 
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