Freekin' SLIP light!

I've ordered a OBDII open-end cable (OBD connector, 10' cable, loose wires on other end) and a OBDII 'Y' cable. I found a pushbutton in my parts box, so that should be everything I need to make my 'SST'. I ordered the 'Y' cable so I can have both my SST and the SG2 hooked up at the same time.

The cables should be here Tues so now I just have to pace around the garage like an expectant father waiting for them to arrive. I hope I did the re-calibration wrong and this solves the problem, otherwise it's dealer and $$$ time for my baby.

BTW - If anyone in the Boulder area needs to borrow my cable setup (not the SG2) when I'm done let me know.
 
While waiting for my cables to come in I started thinking (I know, that's a bad thing to do) that maybe the problem is related to getting rid of the front to back rake. Is it possible that leveling the truck changed a sensor's orientation enough to where it can't zero out properly?

Here are the height changes (measured at the wheel well):
Rear +2 1/8" (was 37 3/4", now 39 7/8")
Front +4 1/4" (was 35 1/2", now 39 3/4")
 
My cables came in last night and I put the push-button on it so it's easy to perform the calibration. However... no change.

A question (or 50), please excuse my rambling.
When I do the first part, "(a) Clear the zero point calibration" the slip light comes on for ~3 seconds, pulses off, the back on for ~3 seconds. Is this normal?

When I do the second part, (b) Perform zero point calibration of the yaw rate and acceleration sensor. I get the slip light pulsing (step 7), then when I turn off the key, disconnect the wires (release the push button) then start the truck, the slip light is on steady. I drive as instructed but the slip light never changes. I am not currently do the remaining calibrations (DOWNHILL ASSIST & CRAWL CONTROL), do I need to do them as well?

When installing the lift, I removed the front to back rake of the truck (~4" lift up front). Could this be related to the problem? Should I try dropping the front an inch or two then go through the calibration again?
 
GrantK said:
My cables came in last night and I put the push-button on it so it's easy to perform the calibration. However... no change.

A question (or 50), please excuse my rambling.
When I do the first part, "(a) Clear the zero point calibration" the slip light comes on for ~3 seconds, pulses off, the back on for ~3 seconds. Is this normal?

When I do the second part, (b) Perform zero point calibration of the yaw rate and acceleration sensor. I get the slip light pulsing (step 7), then when I turn off the key, disconnect the wires (release the push button) then start the truck, the slip light is on steady. I drive as instructed but the slip light never changes. I am not currently do the remaining calibrations (DOWNHILL ASSIST & CRAWL CONTROL), do I need to do them as well?

When installing the lift, I removed the front to back rake of the truck (~4" lift up front). Could this be related to the problem? Should I try dropping the front an inch or two then go through the calibration again?
Click to expand...

Yes, you have to do them all. Did you even read the thread by Nathan that I provided you a link to? Read Post #12!!!!!! http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...sensor-zero-point-calibration.html#post609706

4 inches in the front will put an extreme angle on your cv axles. Bring it down to 3" max,pack a spare cv axle and tools to change it if you plan on offroading or get a diff drop if your going to leave it at 4 . It's easy as pie to adjust it down with the Icon front CO's.
 
Last edited:
harper7 said:
Yes, you have to do them all. Did you even read the thread by Nathan that I provided you a link to? Read Post #12!!!!!! http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...sensor-zero-point-calibration.html#post609706

4 inches in the front will put an extreme angle on your cv axles. Bring it down to 3" max,pack a spare cv axle and tools to change it if you plan on offroading or get a diff drop if your going to leave it at 4 . It's easy as pie to adjust it down with the Icon front CO's.
Click to expand...

I was only reading the cal. procedure in the 1st posting (my bad). I wasn't doing the DAC, Crawl control since being a TE I don't have a DAC switch. Anyway, I just went out to the garage and did the Crawl control part and...

SUCCESS, no more constant on slip light.

I'm going to drop the front end down a bunch (1.5"...2") and then redo the calibration. I'll probably need to have it re-aligned as well with that much of a change.

Thanks to everyone for putting up with me and their help getting this straightened out, especially Harper, you rock!!!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 461 (members: 2, guests: 459)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,310
Messages
3,554,080
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top