Front and Rear Diff fluid change

When I asked a friend that's a Toyota master tech, he responded "it's a Toyota. Put in it what's recommended and drive it. You could probably get away with vegetable oil."

Which I took as his way of saying- don't overthink it.
 
He's talking about some poor ratings for M1 motor oil.
I've seen this argument before. I might be mis-remembering but IIRC that M1 Advanced Fuel Economy or a similar uses a base stock that can't legally be called synthetic in Europe and that it doesn't perform as well as some other synthetics in testing.
There are several different M1 motor oils now including Extended Performance, Annual Protection, High Mileage, Advance Fuel Economy and European formula (0w-40).

Oh I see. Yeah, from what I remember the EP is possibly a bit better, but I've been using AFE since that's what I get on sale at Costco. It's still a very good oil though.

I tend to overthink things a bit too, but I believe as long as a good proven lube is utilized, then the 4Runner will continue to chug along just fine with no hit in performance or reliability.

I like to use oils that are readily available locally if at all possible, so I think I'll be using Mobil 1 in the diffs. Only exception will be Ravenol in the T-Case since it's hard to find the proper grade locally.
 
Just to side track things a little, where is the vendor that was selling Amsoil on here? I want to order something from him. Thanks.
 
Oh I see. Yeah, from what I remember the EP is possibly a bit better, but I've been using AFE since that's what I get on sale at Costco. It's still a very good oil though.

I tend to overthink things a bit too, but I believe as long as a good proven lube is utilized, then the 4Runner will continue to chug along just fine with no hit in performance or reliability.

I like to use oils that are readily available locally if at all possible, so I think I'll be using Mobil 1 in the diffs. Only exception will be Ravenol in the T-Case since it's hard to find the proper grade locally.

Sounds like a good plan to me.

Just to side track things a little, where is the vendor that was selling Amsoil on here? I want to order something from him. Thanks.
Maybe you can post what you find out. Would be good to see a quote for the recommended Amsoil fluids...unless that goes against the Church of Amsoil's rules.
 
I really hope we are all overthinking our Diffs/TC fluids. What are the odds that we will have an oil related failure of these components?[/QUOTE]


Over thinking is an understatement , these oil wars are staring to drive me insane , How can one say an oil is better than the other , no one can go back in time and try different oils in the same vehicle , ie ... same conditions the vechicle went through , same change intervals , etc, not to mention the flaws in some vehicles that may have caused a mechanical issue that a certain oil would of prevented or not prevented anyways .


Kinda reminds me of the arguments of guys with atv tires , well my bike went through that hole better than yours so my tires must be better ,

The hole will never be the same EVER again after the first guy goes through it to ever do a logical technical comparison.


Or guys doing $200 synthetic oil changes on their cummins because someone says its better for the engine , News flash they were doing 10000000 miles before syn oil even came out , 99% chance you will not have truck long enough to reach a million miles , and/or it will be sold or fall apart around you long before then , save your syn oil money for mods and repairs or just life in general.
 
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Any advice on what to do if one can’t get the drain plug out on the front differential? It’s like it’s welded to the diff. Not a fun thing to do so far. First, one of the bolts holding the plate broke off. Then, I had hell of a time getting the fill plug out, getting it loose rather. And now the drain plug just won’t move. Was supposed to be a half an hour job, lol.
 
I can't comment on the front diff. fluid as both my '15 PreRunner 4.0L Tacoma and '14 4R are 2WD.

'15 Tacoma calls for 3.12 qts. in rear diff.
'14 4R calls for 2.9 qts. in rear diff.

Every rear diff. I ever changed gear oil in was always seeping out a hair after the prescribed amt. of fluid was added. Not the case with my Tacoma/4R.

I had to add the better part of 1/2 a qt. more to each before any fluid began flowing out the top of the diff. - so for both of these vehicles I now buy 4 qts. 75W-90. Leftover can be used at next change.
 
Any advice on what to do if one can’t get the drain plug out on the front differential? It’s like it’s welded to the diff. Not a fun thing to do so far. First, one of the bolts holding the plate broke off. Then, I had hell of a time getting the fill plug out, getting it loose rather. And now the drain plug just won’t move. Was supposed to be a half an hour job, lol.

What tool are you using to try and get the drain plug out?
 
Any advice on what to do if one can’t get the drain plug out on the front differential? It’s like it’s welded to the diff. Not a fun thing to do so far. First, one of the bolts holding the plate broke off. Then, I had hell of a time getting the fill plug out, getting it loose rather. And now the drain plug just won’t move. Was supposed to be a half an hour job, lol.

See post #12 in this Tacoma thread:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/drain-and-fill-plugs-for-differentials.553660/

Also - be it front or rear - elevate the end you are working on so you can get a longer breaker bar underneath - better leverage
 
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Any advice on what to do if one can’t get the drain plug out on the front differential? It’s like it’s welded to the diff. Not a fun thing to do so far. First, one of the bolts holding the plate broke off. Then, I had hell of a time getting the fill plug out, getting it loose rather. And now the drain plug just won’t move. Was supposed to be a half an hour job, lol.

Get creative with leverage. Breaker bar is recommended. Lift if needed to fit bigger breaker bar. And wear gloves, when that thing breaks free your hand is going to hit something.
 
What tool are you using to try and get the drain plug out?
:) Started with a 10 mm hex socket and a 1/4 ratchet. Then went to adapter and a 1/2 ratchet. From there a breaker bar and the then a breaker with a wrench on it (don't have a pipe handy). At his point, I am really surprised how it is still holding on and pretty scared to strip it (also kind of surprised it still did not strip).
See post #12 in this Tacoma thread:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/drain-and-fill-plugs-for-differentials.553660/

Also - be it front or rear - elevate the end you are working on so you can get a longer breaker bar underneath - better leverage
I wanted to stay off welding (i.e. shop) for the time being, but it is a good idea. And I greatly appreciate the link! Someone there mentioned a "trick" with a jack, which I think I am going to try next. I will get a new plug first though because I did not expect this and only bought the washers.

Get creative with leverage. Breaker bar is recommended. Lift if needed to fit bigger breaker bar. And wear gloves, when that thing breaks free your hand is going to hit something.
Thanks. I have learned my glove lesson on my own skin/flesh, lol.
I have tried a breaker bar to no avail.

Thanks to all who replied! I greatly appreciate all the posts. I will try to update how it went in a couple of weeks or so when I get a new plug.
 
So my oil guy ordered me the wrong oil. He got me 75-90 Mobil 1 full synthetic as I asked for but it's the LS stuff not the Delvac stuff. Has anyone used this? It's for a 2016 SR5 so to the best of my knowledge, diffs are open and no need for the LS additive. Not sure if the LS additive will harm anything in the diffs or transfer case either? I figure no harm to the diffs but the transfer case is my main concern.
 

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So my oil guy ordered me the wrong oil. He got me 75-90 Mobil 1 full synthetic as I asked for but it's the LS stuff not the Delvac stuff. Has anyone used this? It's for a 2016 SR5 so to the best of my knowledge, diffs are open and no need for the LS additive. Not sure if the LS additive will harm anything in the diffs or transfer case either? I figure no harm to the diffs but the transfer case is my main concern.

So I am sure many will disagree with me on this but if he will swap it for you (the non LS oil) do it. If he won't, I wouldn't toss the oil , to my knowledge (very very limited) the main downside to LS oils is the Friction modifiers in them can, under circiumstances (heat) shorten the life of the fluid (oxidation stabiilty).

Differentials that have limited slip still have ring and pinion gears to lubricate.......

Edit: Its a Toyota not a Ford, I'll bet my 4runner with Veggie oil in the rear diff will last longer than a Ford
 
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So I am sure many will disagree with me on this but if he will swap it for you (the non LS oil) do it. If he won't, I wouldn't toss the oil , to my knowledge (very very limited) the main downside to LS oils is the Friction modifiers in them can, under circiumstances (heat) shorten the life of the fluid (oxidation stabiilty).

Differentials that have limited slip still have ring and pinion gears to lubricate.......

Edit: Its a Toyota not a Ford, I'll bet my 4runner with Veggie oil in the rear diff will last longer than a Ford

Well to be honest, he sent this to me as a free sample. We spend literally hundreds of thousands of dollars with this supplier every year nationally. I don't honestly see the LS additive being an issue in the diffs, it's just overkill if anything. He did give me a # to call Mobil 1 which I will do tomorrow just to confirm there is no issue but I wanted to get some input from you guys here also. I'm one of those guys that tends to over think everything, like servicing my diffs every 15K miles and engine oil every 5K miles lol. Cheap insurance is how I see it. I think when it comes time to service the transfer case I'm going to just spend the 50-60 bucks and go with the OEM fluid. Not worth the risk of blowing something up or shortening the life of the case for such a small amount of money in comparison to replacing the case.
 
Just adds a nice aroma. Wonder how that'll work with my diff breather relocated to the rear quarter panel jack compartment lol. One way to find out!
 
I have 6qts of MOTUL Gear 300 SAE 75W90.

It says it's 100% synthetic and meets API GL4/GL5. Anybody used this for diff. / trans., and what is your experience with it?
 

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